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JK Parking Brake

16K views 16 replies 14 participants last post by  Grand Umpah 
#1 ·
Ok,

So, over the past several months, I've dealt with the brakes quite a bit. I know I'm not an expert, but something just doesn't seem correct. I'm hoping someone might have a suggestion for me to try that I might not have thought of yet.

Typically, I've done this work with one wheel off the ground at a time, with the vehicle in neutral (it's a manual). I figured this way I could isolate one wheel at a time.

I've taken off the calipers/rotors, and adjusted the star nut numerous times. I'd take the rotor off, adjust the nut, replace the rotor, and temporarily replace the wheel. After I'd pull the handle (only a couple clicks), and attempt to push/pull the wheel by hand it'd hold. Once it'd feel like the brake was holding, I'd put it all together, and proceed to adjust the other side.

My parking brake handle has maybe 7 - 8 clicks before it reaches top of its travel. I'd keep a mental note to pull the handle about 3 clicks for each side adjustment.

Now this would hold for a little while, and then it'd just stop. Then I'd have to park with the transmission holding it in place (really hate doing this).

I'm kinda leaning towards the issue being the lever itself (item #4 on attached link: https://www.quadratec.com/parts/jeep-wrangler-jk-parking-brake-lever-cable-parts).

I feel like maybe the lever is stiff and now it may have stretched my cable. however, I thought the cable was steel, so I'm a little confused as to how such little motion can stress the cable that much.

Is there any other JK owners out there that have experienced this trouble?
 
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#2 ·
Regardless of whether the parking brake works correctly or not, you should always park with the transmission in either first or reverse.

It could be the cable stretching. Yes, the cable is steel, but they do stretch. It could also be that the parking brake shoes are wearing. I assume when you've had the rotor off that you inspected the shoes, though.
 
#4 ·
I usually do park in gear (regardless of working/non-working parking brake).

I've done a whole replacement of shoes, pads, rotors, calipers (yes, I know some items listed are unrelated to parking brake). So, I guess the next steps might be to try and get a hold of some levers or cables...

Thanks
 
#5 ·
Ya, the parking brake sucks on this thing. What I saw when I adjusted mine was that the one-wheel at a time didn't work (for me). I had to adjust them both, otherwise there is a piviot on the cable and you'll get more tension on one side then the other.

I adjusted the star so there was just a small amount of drag without the parking brake on. Did it for both sides, then pulled the handle.. added slightly more drag until I got the handle feel I wanted.

From that point on, the parking brake has consistently engaged for me anywhere from 3 to 7/8 (near the top).. but I've not hit a situation where it has NOT engaged.

(Prior to this, the dealer said it wasn't adjustable -- full of crap --, and even in gear on a steep hill.. the jeep might roll...)
 
#6 ·
I tried everything to adjust the parking brake on my 2104. It never really worked from day 1. I was about to start messing with the lever assembly when I installed a new HD rear axle assembly. My my new rear axle has Spyntec heavy duty bump stop brackets (which include the e-brake cable mounts) and new Mopar parking brake assemblies (p/n 52125175AC). Once I got the axle assembly installed, the e-brake worked perfectly! I didn't adjust anything - I just bolted on the parking brake assemblies & hooked up the cables.

I have no idea why it works perfectly now. Is it possible that the latest revision 52125175AC parking brake assemblies are somehow different than the previous AA or AB assemblies? Is it the much more robust cable brackets? No idea, but just having the parking brake work normally was almost worth the price of the new rear end!
 
#7 ·
Mine hasn't worked since I purchased it new. Someday I'll get to it....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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#8 ·
mine is an 11 JK, parking brake has not worked since 2012. I think the cable stretches, and its just such a PIA to adjust on these JK's. As soon as i flex and pull the cable it pops out. I carry a couple 4x4 scraps in case i really need to make sure it stays in place.
have not really needed it but would be nice to have a parking brake on occasion.
 
#10 ·
Not to sound like a dick, but it doesn't sound like your adjusting it correctly. There is a plug on the back side of the backing plate that cab be removed so the adjuster can be turned. This way you don't have to remove the wheel, caliper and rotor. Turn the adjuster until there is some tension when turning wheel. With them properly adjusted the e brake will stop at about 3-4 clicks.
 
#11 ·
I read this elsewhere too. I just need to do it. I'm so used to mine not working since day 1, it's not something that has been on my list.

BTW, my wife's 2017 works just fine.
 
#15 ·
Here's an alternate way, without welding. From Seacomms on AusJeepOffroad thread: JK Handbrake - A bit weak







OK all done (videos took ages to upload...)

Go easy on me, they are unedited!!

Firstly an explanation of how the handbrake works, or more accurately why it doesn't


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ag5OO4d_B0

How I fixed it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHf6Eyxn2ok
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLDhnp9A0wM

How to get to it for those that have never tried:

First remove the gearstick and range selector knobs. They simply pull off, grab it with both hands and pull up while wriggling it around a bit and it will simply pop off.

Now the entire centre console comes out, there is no need to remove the black centre insert, just undo the 4 large Torx 40 bolts, one either side at the front lower edge and one either side a few cm from the rear down the bottom (slide the seats forward to expose the bolts). You will have to release the handbrake clutch as shown in the videos so that the lever comes all the way up, then lift the rear of the console up and over the handbrake and remove. Fix as per the videos with you choice of either another wind on the clock spring or additional springs like I did, then test over and over to make sure its all working OK, then again releasing the clutch so the lever can come all the way up stick the console back on and refit everything else.

Done! A working handbrake again! (assuming of course you have already adjusted the shoes as per previous posts in this thread).

The other method that some people have used, is to get a flat screwdriver & carefully add another turn onto the spring.
 
#16 ·
Ours just needed an adjustment - tightening.
It’s a bitch to get to the star wheel.
A lift rack would make it much easier.

Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the sealing plugs out.

I used several picks & a screwdriver to turn the star wheels. Use a good headlamp.
The picks I used are a seal & o-ring remover set - Titan brand #17004 4pc set from Orielly. They have some bent tips that make it easier to get to & turn the partially obstructed star wheel.

Make sure parking brake is off.
Spin the star wheels toward the rear.


Put a little grease on the sealing plugs, & push them back in with a pick. A 90 degree pick worked great.
 
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