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Old 05-28-2013, 12:24 AM   #1
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Talking JK Parts Labeled


Original Image

Did I get all the labels right? Let me know if I need to make any changes

Here is another good reference from Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Basic Do-it-Yourself Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment. Wonder where I got the idea to label all the stuff


Feel free to add any labeled parts, or pictures with descriptions. I'm thinking of adding more in the future. Stuff like brakes parts, engine components, tire backspacing, a-pillar vs b-pillar, cowl, common suspension parts. I'm basically trying to figure out what everything is called. I'm not totally trying to recreate the wheel so if you guys have any good links to JK diagrams that would be cool too.

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Old 05-28-2013, 10:31 AM   #2
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This is great info, I'm gonna make it a stickey.

If you need to edit any of your previous posts, just contact me or any other Moderator or Administrator.

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Old 05-28-2013, 12:46 PM   #3
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The part you labeled as rear actually appears to be human, but I could be wrong.
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:37 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PecosRiver View Post
The part you labeled as rear actually appears to be human, but I could be wrong.
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster76 View Post
Original Image

Did I get all the labels right? Let me know if I need to make any changes

Here is another good reference from Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Basic Do-it-Yourself Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment. Wonder where I got the idea to label all the stuff

Feel free to add any labeled parts, or pictures with descriptions. I'm thinking of adding more in the future. Stuff like brakes parts, engine components, tire backspacing, a-pillar vs b-pillar, cowl, common suspension parts. I'm basically trying to figure out what everything is called. I'm not totally trying to recreate the wheel so if you guys have any good links to JK diagrams that would be cool too.
Awesome! Thanks
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:15 PM   #6
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Awesome post! Wish I had this 6 months ago. Would love to see one of the engine compartment and stuff behind the dash. I think I've seen a diagram of the fuse box if anyone knows how to find it and add it.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:56 AM   #7
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Found Some Links

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiskeyMike View Post
Awesome post! Wish I had this 6 months ago. Would love to see one of the engine compartment and stuff behind the dash. I think I've seen a diagram of the fuse box if anyone knows how to find it and add it.
ENGINE COMPARTMENT DIAGRAM 2007-2011
I found a thread that goes over all the major components.
Engine Diagram? What's what....

FUSES
The top of the fuse box has a diagram. It can be hard to read. You can find the fuse proper fuse location "cavity" on the lid or in the user manual near the back in "MAINTAING YOUR VEHICLE". Unfortunately, at least with the 2012 manual, it doesn't show the location diagram that is on the fuse box cover.
FUSES (2007-2011)
This is a good link that list and shows the fuse locations.
Jeep JK Fuse Box Map Layout Diagram - JeepForum.com
This is not the same with the pentastar 3.6L 2012+ engine. I'm assuming that it would be the same for all the 3.8L years.
FUSES 2012+
This is a picture with the fuse box open. It's next to the battery on the passenger side.

Fuse Box Lid 2012

Fuse Box 2012
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:24 AM   #8
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Where's the canuter valve?
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:54 AM   #9
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3.6L V6 Pentastar Engine (2012+)

I tried my best to copy paste these so there would be less spelling errors


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Old 05-31-2013, 12:58 AM   #10
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Undercarriage Passenger Side View Labled

The reason there is no dirt in the crossmember is because I pulled about a bucket full out the other day.
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Old 05-31-2013, 06:46 AM   #11
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The relays you have highlighted are for the front and rear lockers.
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spieg's build thread
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Old 05-31-2013, 06:59 AM   #12
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My favorite part: Wheel (not rim).

That's always a pet peeve of mine.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:38 AM   #13
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Looking at the undercarriage pics, that seems like a lot of rust for a 2012, eh? Hope that's not what I have to look forward to after next winter...

Seriously though, thanks for posting - lots of great info here!
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Old 05-31-2013, 02:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackdj1 View Post
Where's the canuter valve?
First shift Up, up, down, down, left, right, left, right (if you have a passenger select a radio station) then start the engine. The canuter valve will pop out an old school version of contra in your glove box. Did I mention that about all I know about cars I learned from Grand Turismo and Forza.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spieg View Post
The relays you have highlighted are for the front and rear lockers.
Thanks, I may at some point try the locker mod for them to work in 4-high.

Quote:
Originally Posted by strickerje View Post
Looking at the undercarriage pics, that seems like a lot of rust for a 2012, eh? Hope that's not what I have to look forward to after next winter...

Seriously though, thanks for posting - lots of great info here!
It's not actually rust, it's mud. I don't look for mud, it finds me. I do my best to spray it off with a sprinkler and pressure washer, but without a rag that surface dirt remains on there.

Back when I first got it, I sprayed the whole shinny exhaust with rattle can rust oleum high heat ultra (with a grill picture on it). In most spots the spray paint has stayed on good as a protection layer. There are a few spots were I have touched it up. I also hit up any spots the factory missed when new, like small spots on the axles. I left the driveshafts bare because some warn against spraying it. People have sprayed the drive shafts without issue. I just didn't want it to be an excuse if a vibration issue sprang up. If I take a wet rag with some dish soap I can still rub and see the black paint on the now mostly brown muffler. It's pretty baked on though and no amount of sprinkler under there is going to nudge it off. I've got some rust oleum "rust reformer" to cover up the scrapes after I clean around them some. Now that you brought it up I get on that today.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster76 View Post
First shift Up, up, down, down, left, right, left, right (if you have a passenger select a radio station) then start the engine. The canuter valve will pop out an old school version of contra in your glove box. Did I mention that about all I know about cars I learned from Grand Turismo and Forza.


Thanks, I may at some point try the locker mod for them to work in 4-high.



It's not actually rust, it's mud. I don't look for mud, it finds me. I do my best to spray it off with a sprinkler and pressure washer, but without a rag that surface dirt remains on there.

Back when I first got it, I sprayed the whole shinny exhaust with rattle can rust oleum high heat ultra (with a grill picture on it). In most spots the spray paint has stayed on good as a protection layer. There are a few spots were I have touched it up. I also hit up any spots the factory missed when new, like small spots on the axles. I left the driveshafts bare because some warn against spraying it. People have sprayed the drive shafts without issue. I just didn't want it to be an excuse if a vibration issue sprang up. If I take a wet rag with some dish soap I can still rub and see the black paint on the now mostly brown muffler. It's pretty baked on though and no amount of sprinkler under there is going to nudge it off. I've got some rust oleum "rust reformer" to cover up the scrapes after I clean around them some. Now that you brought it up I get on that today.
Ah, that's good to know. It's hard to tell mud vs rust on my phone screen.
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Old 06-01-2013, 12:57 PM   #16
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thanks so much for this!
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:50 AM   #17
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Talking Holy Exploded Diagrams Batman

daspes has this link in his signature on the JKfreaks forum. He gave me the green light to share it. Bring your lunch. There is a bunch to check out.
LINK>Vehicle Tech Files

Direct Link to Exploded Diagrams PDF
LINK>Jeep Wrangler JK (07-10) Parts Fiche
NOTE: You may have to be signed in to google if useing the chrome browser to see the pdf.
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Old 06-02-2013, 10:08 AM   #18
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Hmm, what is a ball joint/U-joint? what's the purpose of that?
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:25 AM   #19
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thanks
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:05 PM   #20
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IMHO if a jeep owner needs a diagram showing the location of the washer fluid, oil fill cap, dipstick, etc they shouldn't be allowed to own one.

What's next? A diagram showing the spokes on the steering wheel or the lever to recline the front seats?
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:55 PM   #21
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Talking Spamming up the joint again


With the help of SilverSports amazing ball joint write-up I labeled an inner wheel. I would highly recommend checking out his thread for tons more pictures of all the parts.
LINK>http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/ins...up-147062.html
Here is another 5 star write-up he did that labels a bunch of the rear brake.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/how...ml#post2455363

Quote:
Originally Posted by spieg View Post
The relays you have highlighted are for the front and rear lockers.
Updated the image. Thanks again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlminh View Post
Hmm, what is a ball joint/U-joint? what's the purpose of that?
Lets see if I can way over answer this question, while being under qualified.

Ball Joint - (shown above) It is for steering.

U-Joint = Universal Joint - There function is to allow a shaft to rotate past a bend. They are a common weak point. They come in two main flavors
1)Cardan - Looks like a cross, also called Spicer joint, or Hooke's joint. They speedup and slowdown through the rotation 4 times. They fit into a yoke. One side where it attaches to the yoke is called an ear.
(Cardan U-Joint is Green in the animation)

2)Constant velocity (CV) - There are a number of types. The JK uses a Rzeppa ones on the drivelines. Double Cardan is another popular type in off-roading because it allows more angularity when lifting. It is basically just 2 cardan u-joints close together to smooth out the jerky nature of a single cardan.Technically a CV joint is a U-Joint, but not the other way around. Some will call a cardan u-joint a CV joint. That's stepping over the line and technically incorrect. The video below is an example of a CV joint that resembles the Rzeppa on the JK's driveshafts.

JK rzeppa picture from 2007 Jeep Wrangler JK Driveshaft - CV Joint - 4 Wheel Drive and Sport Utility Magazine


For way more detail on u-joints LINK>Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

JK U-Joint Locations
The image below is from a Cherokee XJ but gives you an idea of the locations.
-Both sides of the front axle (9) have cardan style u-joints.
-Front driveline labeled 3 is a cardan style u-joint.
-1 and 2 are a single Rzeppa CV joint on a JK, instead of a double cardan.
-On the rear driveline both ends, 4 and 6, use Rzeppa CV joints.
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Anatomy Of A U-Joint:
Here is another good link on U-joints Understanding Universal Joints and Size Charts
This is a parts diagram from the above link.
1. U-Joint Body (Cross)
2. Trunnion (Pin)
3. C-Clip (NOTE: Some clips will look different, but this is the factory JK type)
4. Bearing Cap
5. Needle Bearings - These are on the wall of the bearing cap

NOT SHOWN: Some aftermarket u-joints are greasable and would have a small zerg fitting to add grease. The factory ones sealed and low maintenance.

MORE PICTURES from 2007 Jeep Wrangler JK Driveshaft - 4 Wheel Drive and Sport Utility Magazine. There are many more good images on the link.
Here you see the Rzeppa CV joint on the left and a Cardan U-Joint on the right of the driveshaft.

This shows the rubber boot that can be an issue if you have too much lift.That's usually over 2.5". It will rub and eventually rupture. That lets all the grease goodness out destroying the driveline.


CHANGING A U-JOINT
Here is a write-up on changing out a u-joint.
Replacing font axle u-joint
This is a quote from that thread that give all the part numbers
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwkhaussupply View Post
I was just reviewing the thread to see if I could add any additional info, since I have done more gears and Ujoints then prolly most.

Lots of good info here.

I did want to address the axle difference D30 to D44.

The D30 uses the Typical D30 ujoint that dana has used for about 15yrs now, the Spicer 5-760.
The D44 uses a newer sized, first available in 2007 in the JK Rubicon, its basically the D30 cap size with a Dana 60 cross size. Mopar # 68017182AA Or Spicer # 5004891.

The unit bearings are the same D30 to D44 JK. And the outer axle at unitbearing area might be the same but the ujoints on the D44 are larger, so the yoke end on the outer and inner are larger on the D44 then the D30.

As for your prorock taking the same outer sub axle as the D30. That is only because Dynatrac didnt take the time to get you a true rubicon sized axle kit. Mostly because they are a lil behind the times and they down grade the ProRock 44 to the Dana 30 ujoint size, even though its a D44. Sucks huh?
I'm digging this guys channel. He also shows the hammer method (vs changing with a vice)
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:10 PM   #22
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Thank you so much for this! I'm learning alot more about the parts than googling every time.
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:29 AM   #23
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This is perfect! Thank you so much for this thread!
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:37 PM   #24
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This is awesome! Ver y good post Will help me
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:59 PM   #25
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Thank you! This is a fantastic resource
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:50 PM   #26
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This is great info! I was always getting confused about which was the Pittman, Drag, sway bar link, control arm...blah blah blah - this spells it all out! AWESOME!
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:30 PM   #27
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Talking Found Some More Diagrams

LINK>Jeep Parts Diagrams at Morris 4x4 Center
I'm going to show a couple example diagrams. They can be a bit confusing but could really help out if you're looking for a replacement part. They give the name, part number, and aftermarket options on the link above. In addition there are pretty good diagrams of
  • Radiator (Cooling)
  • Manual Transmission parts
  • Steering
  • Breaks

46-Coil Spring Isolator
47- Jounce Bumper (Bumpstop)
49-Coil (NOTE: BB/Budget Boost/Leveling Kit(most)/Spacer Lifts, put a small puck above the factory coil to get extra lift. A coil/standard lift gives more flex and replaces the whole coil with a new larger one. There is also such a thing as a body lift, but those are mostly done to tweak a suspension lift)
52-Track Bar
60-Upper Control Arm (UCA)
61-Lower Control Arm (LCA)

SOFT TOP DIAGRAM 2D (4 Door With link above). I'm not sure if these will help with installing for the first time. The 2dr has a weird bow pictured on the back that's not on mine.


LINK>Replacement Parts for Jeep® Vehicles: Quadratec
There are alright diagrams of the following on the Quadratec Link. They give you the name and part numbers.
The link above will have all the names and part numbers. I'll point out a few
1-Freedom Top Sun Bonnet
7-Side Step
9-Grill
11-Front Bumper Applique
17-Tow Hooks
26-Footman Loop (The windshield loops near the roof on the inside are also called Footman Loops)
29-Air Dam
31-32-Door Hinge
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:21 PM   #28
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Talking Jeep Forum Recon Sucessful

I found some 5 star studies by ronjenx @ JK F.A.Q. - Frequently Asked Questions / Will It Rub and Links to Popular Threads! - JeepForum.com . He labels all of the parts disassembled. Most are a bit over my head but still fun to look at.

OEM TIPM Study - JeepForum.com (Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) = Fuse Box to my dumb ass)

OEM Parking Brake Lever Study - JeepForum.com (this goes well with a side of SilverSport's parking break write-up http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/how...ml#post2455363 . Sure I posted it before in this thread, but it really is that awesome )

RUBICON SPECIALTY PARTS

OEM Rubicon Locker Study - JeepForum.com

Tru-Lok Inner Workings - JeepForum.com (Rubicon Locker)

OEM E-Disco (Smartbar) Study - JeepForum.com (Electronic Swaybar Disconnect)

BELOW ARE ACADEMIC STUDIES OF REPLACEABLE PARTS - YOU CANNOT REPAIR THEM

OEM Ball Joint Study - JeepForum.com

OEM Front Wheel Unit Bearing Study - JeepForum.com

OEM Fuel Pump Module Study - JeepForum.com

OEM PCV Valve Study - JeepForum.com (Postivie Crankcase Ventilation Valve)
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:39 PM   #29
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Guys, I am new to the forum and new JK owner. I came from Hummerforums.com because of my H3. I have to say, 20 minutes into this forum and the amount, quality and detail of information is just incredible. The other forum does ok, but this has so much more detail and beef. Really impressive, more importantly, really helpful. Thanks so much - I feel like I've just been to school! Great job.
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:15 AM   #30
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Guys, I am new to the forum and new JK owner.
x2

I'm a member of over (20-30) different car/truck forums (had a bunch in the past) and I totally agree with loud pipes.

This forum has it's feces consolidated!

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