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Old 12-19-2014, 10:09 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by johnpmcelroy View Post
Front Window Tint? Are you sure about that. I painted the inside freedom panels black to cut down on the glare if that's what you are trying to do.
I was actually thinking it would look nice with the billet silver to have the front windows the same tint as the back ones with the black hardtop. Plus the privacy is nice.
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:15 PM   #62
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I haven't given that a good look yet. I really advise everyone to get familiar with the repair on these Freedom Tops. Start looking up the Seal Parts and information and getting supplies such as the cleaners used. I know I will by the end of next summer. Its obvious that the Foam blockers are a lot of the problems and the Center Seal on the right panel are most of everyones problems. Not to mention the Door Seals. And you know Dales1979 will be back.
Hey thanks for the vote of confidence! j/k I really do think they got it all squared away this time. And honestly, if it does happen again, I'm just going to tackle it myself first. I know the Jeeps can handle a little wet, and I'm pretty OCD when it comes to my vehicles. I've already readjusted the freedom panels so I know they're installed properly.

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Old 12-20-2014, 09:23 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by dales1979 View Post
Hey thanks for the vote of confidence! j/k I really do think they got it all squared away this time. And honestly, if it does happen again, I'm just going to tackle it myself first. I know the Jeeps can handle a little wet, and I'm pretty OCD when it comes to my vehicles. I've already readjusted the freedom panels so I know they're installed properly.
LOL Just went thru that repair procedure. I like the detailed explanation of the Foam Pad Kits. Still haven't figured out what the Rubber Wheel Bit is. Have you seen the post about using the Grease (Dielectric). I think that would only be used as last resort and its the middle of rainy season. You don't want to get that stuff all over your panels if you plan to do any repairs. Its hard to get off. Thanks for the procedure.
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:20 AM   #64
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Another leak that will catch you off guard is the rear window seal. And you will find water all over the Carpet corners and inside the Jack Compartment. I now keep my jack rapped in 2 plastic bags. I've stopped my leak. I can send pics if you want them
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Old 12-26-2014, 08:14 PM   #65
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I did the repair today to stop the leak over my door handles, hope it works!
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Old 12-27-2014, 07:19 AM   #66
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I did the repair today to stop the leak over my door handles, hope it works!
What repair?
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Old 12-27-2014, 07:44 AM   #67
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What repair?
The A-pillar foam/mucket repair shown on page 4 of the PDF. My seal was folded under and foam missing/damaged. I ordered the repair kit and worked on it yesterday. Now I just need a good rain storm to see if it's fixed!
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:31 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Red Rock Raider View Post
The A-pillar foam/mucket repair shown on page 4 of the PDF. My seal was folded under and foam missing/damaged. I ordered the repair kit and worked on it yesterday. Now I just need a good rain storm to see if it's fixed!
Does the foam have its own adhesive on one side. Or do you have to use Adhesive. And did you use the Foam Pad Kit which is for the Freedom Panel. Or is there a separate Foam Repair Kit for the A Pillar Mucket. Be alittle more specific Please.
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:40 AM   #69
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Does the foam have its own adhesive on one side. Or do you have to use Adhesive. And did you use the Foam Pad Kit which is for the Freedom Panel. Or is there a separate Foam Repair Kit for the A Pillar Mucket. Be alittle more specific Please.
Yes, the foam has adhesive on one side. See the PDF in the first post of this thread for all the details you will need. I ordered my kit from eBay. I have a soft top but just followed the directions in the PDF that appear to be for a hard top.
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Old 12-27-2014, 02:42 PM   #70
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Yes, the foam has adhesive on one side. See the PDF in the first post of this thread for all the details you will need. I ordered my kit from eBay. I have a soft top but just followed the directions in the PDF that appear to be for a hard top.
Thanks
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:07 AM   #71
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Door Not Sitting Flush with Body (Hard Close)

For anyone whos doors do not sit flush against the body of their Jeep when they are closed or it takes a lot of effort to close them. I had some guidance from fellow forum member Jon M. so I cant take all the credit for this fix.

On my jeep (2014 2 dr) the drivers side door was sticking out about 1/4" from the body. When I ran my finger across the body to over the door seam and to the door my finger would hit the edge of the door. The dealer said "it is because of the seal and is normal" Don't believe the dealership, this is not a normal condition, the door is not adjusted properly.

Try this simple fix, use your torx wrench (not sue which size) to loosen (do not remove completely) the 2 torx screws that hold the door catch to the body. This will give you some play to adjust the catch (up, down, in or out) so the door can shut all the way.

Since my door was not closing all the way, I loosed the screws, moved the catch in about 1/4" (if the much) tighten the torx and shut the door. The door now sits flush with the body. You may have to adjust it a few times to get it just right.

My drivers side door was also leaking at the front a pillar and rear b pillar, after I adjusted the door I ran the hose over the top of the top jeep for about 15 mins, checking for leaks every 5 and didnt find any. It also rained all night a few nights ago and the jeep was dry in the morning.

Hope this helps anyone who has the same issue, if you have any questions let me know.
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Old 01-01-2015, 06:46 PM   #72
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All of them?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ASE_MasterTech View Post
'Extended Warranties' are nothing more than 'insurance policies' provided by others (usually Banks/Underwriters, ie-GMAC, etc..), they are NOT issued from vehicle manufacturers themselves.

As such, just like any insurance policy, you only have the protections you both agree to via the contract you sign..

What did you agree to?? (did you even read the contract?)
What about the extended service plans offered though Chrysler Corporation? I am talking about the Maximum Care/Plus, Added Care/Plus, and Powertrain Plus packages. Right on their webpage (link above) it clearly states "Backed By Manufacturer"*.


*"Backed by ManufacturerMopar® Vehicle Protection has been providing peace of mind for over 30 years and is the only extended protection backed by Chrysler Group LLC. Chrysler stands behind Mopar Vehicle Protection with certified, factory-trained technicians; genuine Mopar parts and service at dealerships throughout North America. Be sure to ask for a genuine Mopar Vehicle Protection plan at your dealership. Use these links to help you identify the genuine article."
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Old 01-09-2015, 01:38 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by ASE_MasterTech View Post
Here is a manual regarding Jeep Wrangler (JK) water leaks. The diagnostic information is accurate, but the part #'s may not be valid for all model years,

Attachment 1110682


I posted this manual in a few threads but thought it might be easier to find for those interested if it had it's own thread, hope it helps out...
I know it may seem a little OTT, and it may seem like early days; but I love you

I have been experiencing the problem described on page 15; I hadn't noticed, but having bought my JK from my dealer, it seems the mucket had the rolled-under condition.

My problem is now, it seems that it had been this way for so long, the actual mucket is stretched beyond its remit, and continues to leak.

Anyone know the difference between the alternate part-numbers provided?
55395708AE and
55395709AE are listed as possible replacements... AFAICS, there is no difference

Cheers!!
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Old 01-13-2015, 10:40 PM   #74
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Ah I dropped my jeep off to the dealer today for a leak issue and they found 3 leaks the driver and passenger side and plus a new windshield washer fluid assembly the dealer called me later in the day that they have to replace the seals and that it wasn't covered under the warranty so I have to pay out of pocket for that when I Do have the Chrysler warranty ugh !!!
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Old 01-14-2015, 05:36 AM   #75
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Ah I dropped my jeep off to the dealer today for a leak issue and they found 3 leaks the driver and passenger side and plus a new windshield washer fluid assembly the dealer called me later in the day that they have to replace the seals and that it wasn't covered under the warranty so I have to pay out of pocket for that when I Do have the Chrysler warranty ugh !!!
It should be covered under warranty. I was at three dealers and it was covered. Call jeep customer care and open a case. They will call the dealer. Good luck.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:37 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dualcyclone View Post
I know it may seem a little OTT, and it may seem like early days; but I love you

I have been experiencing the problem described on page 15; I hadn't noticed, but having bought my JK from my dealer, it seems the mucket had the rolled-under condition.

My problem is now, it seems that it had been this way for so long, the actual mucket is stretched beyond its remit, and continues to leak.

Anyone know the difference between the alternate part-numbers provided?
55395708AE and
55395709AE are listed as possible replacements... AFAICS, there is no difference

Cheers!!
Left and Right
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:40 AM   #77
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It should be covered under warranty. I was at three dealers and it was covered. Call jeep customer care and open a case. They will call the dealer. Good luck.
Original Vehicle Warranty only. Not covered under Chrysler Extended.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:55 PM   #78
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First day over freezing in a few weeks, so we went to the Jeep wash after the warranty work was completed. The dealer diagnosed the leak at the cowl, even though water was coming in at the bottom edge of the front passenger door. Part number 5VK54DX9AA cover-wiring protector. No water came in, but forgot to check the carpeting before going in the wash. Carpeting was slightly moist, so there will be another test.
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Old 01-16-2015, 08:59 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Huskie View Post
First day over freezing in a few weeks, so we went to the Jeep wash after the warranty work was completed. The dealer diagnosed the leak at the cowl, even though water was coming in at the bottom edge of the front passenger door. Part number 5VK54DX9AA cover-wiring protector. No water came in, but forgot to check the carpeting before going in the wash. Carpeting was slightly moist, so there will be another test.
Remove the carpet. Real easy. Climb in the driver side with a flashlight and look down along the Right Door seal and try to look for water bead coming in. You'll see it if its leaking. Also pull up the carpet behind the seats so its not touching the floor. If you have water back there, its coming from the door or the B Pillar Freedom Panel Foam Blockers. Verify all your Foam blocks are not rolled over and in good condition. If you plan on keeping this Jeep for a while, I suggest you start looking for this leak. When the warranty runs out, major Lots of Money in man hours to fix these things and they might only replace a $20.00 part.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:52 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by Red Rock Raider View Post
I did the repair today to stop the leak over my door handles, hope it works!
My top is still leaking so back to work. I've adjusted the doors and followed the repair steps. Thinking it might be time for new door seals.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:21 PM   #81
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My top is still leaking so back to work. I've adjusted the doors and followed the repair steps. Thinking it might be time for new door seals.
If I were you I would order the Foam Block Kit and a Door Seal. Those foam blocks are a big key in stopping the leaks. I'm pretty sure of it. And if your foam blocks are damaged or rolled over then that's your problem.
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Old 01-22-2015, 07:59 AM   #82
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If I were you I would order the Foam Block Kit and a Door Seal. Those foam blocks are a big key in stopping the leaks. I'm pretty sure of it. And if your foam blocks are damaged or rolled over then that's your problem.
I did order this kit and I'm still having major leaks. Maybe I didn't install things properly, I'm going to have to start over again. This morning really sucked with more leaks than before
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Old 01-22-2015, 08:58 AM   #83
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I did order this kit and I'm still having major leaks. Maybe I didn't install things properly, I'm going to have to start over again. This morning really sucked with more leaks than before
Where are you seeing leaks?

Could be a simple miss alignment of your hard top, broken rivet or seal, missing/ miss aligned foam strips. Or a combo of all the above.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:22 AM   #84
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Where are you seeing leaks?

Could be a simple miss alignment of your hard top, broken rivet or seal, missing/ miss aligned foam strips. Or a combo of all the above.
I think he originally started at finding a rolled Foam block, realigned the door and then things got worse.
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Old 01-22-2015, 04:40 PM   #85
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I only have the soft top. I originally identified the seal folded under as shown on page 4 of the leak manual. I used the repair kit to try and resolve this issue to the best of my abilities. I also tried to snug up the door fit with the latch moved in slightly; maybe I need to move it in a little more. I'll try to take a photo of the top of the door surround seal, to me that looks worn and possibly a big culprit.
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Old 01-22-2015, 06:29 PM   #86
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I tried to take some photos tonight of where I believe the leak is coming from (combination of worn out door seal and mucket area). Photos are poor quality so I apologize, but does anyone think I'm on the right track here? The mucket photo shows the area after I removed the foam seal I had installed from the kit. I wanted everyone to see what I started out with. I installed the foam under the mucket piece as shown in the manual, and ensured the mucket was not rolled underneath itself. I think I'm also going to try and adust the doors in a little bit more to tighten up the seal.

Mucket seal:


Door seal:


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Old 01-26-2015, 08:51 AM   #87
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Red Rock, did you remove all existing foam and glue before installing the new foam?

Also you may want to get new door seals or the door seal replacement kit. If you notice that the seals are worn you might want to get new ones.

One thing my dealer mentioned a was that so the top sits correctly, they replace both door seals if they need to replace a seal. Not sure if this is true of they just want to get more hours on the factory warranty claim.
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:26 AM   #88
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Red Rock, did you remove all existing foam and glue before installing the new foam?

Also you may want to get new door seals or the door seal replacement kit. If you notice that the seals are worn you might want to get new ones.

One thing my dealer mentioned a was that so the top sits correctly, they replace both door seals if they need to replace a seal. Not sure if this is true of they just want to get more hours on the factory warranty claim.
So who stated that the Dealer is wanting man hours. Youre missing the whole point dude on how things get fixed. They replace a seal and it gets water tested. Replace another Seal and it gets water tested. And in between theres a dry time. And its not one day or two days and more like four or five. So what are you trying to say again.
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:35 PM   #89
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Red Rock, did you remove all existing foam and glue before installing the new foam?

Also you may want to get new door seals or the door seal replacement kit. If you notice that the seals are worn you might want to get new ones.

One thing my dealer mentioned a was that so the top sits correctly, they replace both door seals if they need to replace a seal. Not sure if this is true of they just want to get more hours on the factory warranty claim.
Yes I removed all the old foam first. I just worked on this again over the weekend, in addition I moved my door latches in just slightly more. I'm actually going to order an Offroad Hero fastback top soon so hopefully this won't continue to be an issue in the near future.
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:54 AM   #90
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So who stated that the Dealer is wanting man hours. Youre missing the whole point dude on how things get fixed. They replace a seal and it gets water tested. Replace another Seal and it gets water tested. And in between theres a dry time. And its not one day or two days and more like four or five. So what are you trying to say again.
What are you trying to say?

I stated that the dealer wants man hours to fix warranty claims to make more money.

I asked red rock about how he changed the foam. I added my opinion on weather he should change his door seals or not and then commented about what the dealer told me their process on door seal replacement was.

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