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Old 01-27-2014, 11:14 PM   #1
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JKUR coils vs. JKURX coils

Looking for a bit longer coil for my JK 2-door, as I have decided not to run a lift and have decided to go LCOG. No winch, aluminum front and rear bumpers, aluminum flatties. Want to run Rancho 9000 shocks and 35x12.5x17 wheels.

Is the X coil the largest stock coil?

No crawling. DD, beach and light trails.

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Old 01-27-2014, 11:35 PM   #2
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No difference between jku X and jku. Things like 4dr, tow package and hardtop will decide which springs are installed.

The 10a has taller springs.

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Old 01-27-2014, 11:41 PM   #3
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THAT'S what I meant to ask: JKUR vs. 10A

Sorry, getting late, alcohol involved.

I am hoping to not add any lift other than a bump stop in the rear, if necessary. This is a glorified poser wagon, but with dirt and sand roads and trips on the pavement to town.

All thoughts appreciated.
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legitposter View Post
No difference between jku X and jku. Things like 4dr, tow package and hardtop will decide which springs are installed. The 10a has taller springs.
Not sure about that...I had some 2013 rubi springs and 10a springs and they were the same size. I know the 10a has bigger stock tires...
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:35 AM   #5
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18 front and 59 rear is about the stiffest springs available that are installed on some JKUs, from the factory.
You can purchase through Mopar a 19 front, and 60 rear.
These will give you the most lift, and are the numbers of the last two (2) digits on the spring tags.....
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dogger View Post
18 front and 59 rear is about the stiffest springs available that are installed on some JKUs, from the factory.
You can purchase through Mopar a 19 front, and 60 rear.
These will give you the most lift, and are the numbers of the last two (2) digits on the spring tags.....
This is correct. However, some 10A's have different numbers:

"The ones I purchased are from a 10A 4 door hard top with a tow package:
68196006AA - front
68196009AA - rear
There is another set that are from a 10A 4 door soft top, unknown tow pack:
68196005AA - front
68024461AA - rear"

I THINK the 10A's have stiffer than normal springs.
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Old 01-28-2014, 01:58 AM   #7
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Just add some spacers. You'd be hard pressed to fit 35's in a 10A and it they would look stuffed in the wheel well.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
Just add some spacers. You'd be hard pressed to fit 35's in a 10A and it they would look stuffed in the wheel well.
Exactly what I was about to post
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:27 AM   #9
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For your type of usage, 33s, (285x70Rx17) would look good, and work out just fine with the 19s and 60s!
This will be my set up, once that my 255x75rx17 stock Rubicon tires wear out..........

Just another option for you!
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:56 AM   #10
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considering the OP said he is going with flat fenders he should be ok with 35's if he uses 10A springs and/or spacers on a 2 door running light like he stated. He will need proper backspacing on rims tho.
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:23 AM   #11
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I think the 10A's are a bit longer/stiffer up front...but no one knows the "codes".
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:36 AM   #12
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Let's start at the beginning. What are the numbers on your current springs? You can't say that you don't want a lift, yet want to add taller springs. Starting with 14/56 and going to 19/60 on a 2 door can net you 2". That is in fact a lift.
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:44 AM   #13
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68196006 aa and 68196009aa are 10a springs. About 1.5" taller than 18/58 springs.
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Old 01-28-2014, 10:17 AM   #14
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I don't know what the codes are, as I am not in the same country as the Jeep right now. Its a JKR, soft top, no tow package.

I spoke at length with kJeeper and he was very helpful in my original quest for a suspension lift. I changed my direction a couple of weeks ago and decided to go LCOG with the lightest possible bumpers, no winch and alum. flat flares as I found that what I thought this Jeep's mission would be is not what it is. Pure case of pre-purchase overkill.

I should have said that i don't want a suspension lift. I do realize that I will need some combination of bump stops, puck lift and/or taller springs.

I am still clinging to the 35's, as I just think that they look really good. I am afraid that 33's won't look as beefy.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:37 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyPirate View Post
I should have said that i don't want a suspension lift. I do realize that I will need some combination of bump stops, puck lift and/or taller springs.

I am still clinging to the 35's, as I just think that they look really good. I am afraid that 33's won't look as beefy.
The point we are trying to get across is, whether you put longer springs, or spring spacers(pucks), to give you room for 35s, it is still a suspension lift, albeit incomplete, and will come with the inherent lift problems if not done correctly.

In this case Flat fenders and a 1" body lift may work best for you.
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Old 01-28-2014, 02:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto JK View Post
The point we are trying to get across is, whether you put longer springs, or spring spacers(pucks), to give you room for 35s, it is still a suspension lift, albeit incomplete, and will come with the inherent lift problems if not done correctly. In this case Flat fenders and a 1" body lift may work best for you.
I agree but he's not going to see more then a couple inches with the weight.
A lot of folks run flat flares and 35's and it works out good on road. Off road extra bump stop is needed.

I think which ever direction he goes
- leveling kit/spacers or 10a coils and will be fine.
Bump accordingly and some longer shocks for decent travel.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:42 PM   #17
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You can check out my build thread for lots of pictures of my 2 door with 18/59 springs, flat fenders and 35s

Figuring out my bump stop set up took a bit of trial and error because I'm running 27 inch long shocks for the extra droop

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