(2013 JK Sport) I just bought some Rigid lights to mount on the lower part of the windshield. I wash thinking about placing the switch on the lower part of the center dash. Right where the hazard button is in one of the blank square plugs. Any tips on getting in there and popping them out? Has anyone tried to put in a flush style button that looks like the factory ones? Any issues getting the dash off? Also wondering if there is any sort of protection to put behind the mounting plate outside? I'll probably cruise the hardware store for some type of industrial foam. The lights should be delivered sometime this week and getting myself prepped. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Great choice in lights. Nice part about the rigids is the wiring is all done. I didn't mount my switches there I mounted them next to my steering column. That lower plastic price comes out and it's easy and quick to get my lights. Also I've never hit them with my knees either. That's easier and talking to most dealers I know where they recommend placing the switch.
The blanks in the switch bank are covering a switch. No way to get anything through there. Place a passenger eject sticker on it. Either follow T8er ir get a switch plate to mount them in.
We just mounted and installed my lights this weekend. It appears you cannot use the factory switch bays. We added a switch bay underneath where the little mesh pocket is (I understand this will not work if you have a manual).
Finally got the lights in! Sadly disappointed that the mounting plates I bought (Mopar) didn't come with much of any protection between the A pillar and the plate. There was some extremely thin tape to be placed in between them. I saw a video of the Rigid mounts and looks like they do come with a rubber gasket. I used some rubber roof flashing I cut out instead. I enjoy how low the Mopar plate sits, but there's barely enough room for the connector to be placed behind the body panel. I'll post pics after the weather gets better so I can wash it. Still working on the switch location. WOW that center console switch cluster is quite a project! Looks like the A pillar is the way to go for mounting a switch.
If you decide to go with an A-Pillar Switch Panel let me know and I'll get you a quote! They are a really nice way to go. You'll get a nice clean install and the switches are really easy to reach.
So I had my mechanic install 10 - 27w 4" round Arsenal Offroad lights and wiring harness 4 rocker switch. Had 4 on the bumper, 4 on the roof rack front and 2 on the roof rear. They worked the first day but now they don't.
I try to hook up to the battery direct and nothing. I contacted the seller and they said to return them for replacement.
Could there be any other reason why they don't work?
So I had my mechanic install 10 - 27w 4" round Arsenal Offroad lights and wiring harness 4 rocker switch. Had 4 on the bumper, 4 on the roof rack front and 2 on the roof rear. They worked the first day but now they don't. I try to hook up to the battery direct and nothing. I contacted the seller and they said to return them for replacement. Could there be any other reason why they don't work?
define direct... Did you bypass the fuse and relay to hook the light up? Make sure your positive and negatives are correct as well. LEDs will act as a diode. Also, are they in series or parallel?
It's very possible they were improperly hooked up the first time. Or that you didn't check them correctly.
A lot depends where you tapped into the circuit
A proper circuit for LED lights should have a power source, a fuse, a relay which goes to your lights and a switch.
Some people cut corners and just use a switch and the lights, you run the risk of burning out the switch or burning out the lights
I am running all the lights to my 4 Switch LED Lights Control Module has 5 12v 40A relays. front bumper (4 lights) go to one, front roof (4 lights) go to another and rear rood (2 lights) go to another. I have a fourth but haven't decided what to do with it yet.
I began my lighting project last week and used the Switch-Pros module. 2013 J/K. Excellent mod makes things very easy all the way thru. 8 switches will be plenty for everything I need in the future. Not the cheapest but in my opinion the best.
I went with a cooper bussman relay panel that I purchased from the forum marketplace and wired it to a RR A-pillar. I didn't like the kit switches so I used OTRATTW switches. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out and it gives me all kinds of flexibility. Everything goes through the relay/fuse box and switches can be swapped out (switch covers are changed without even taking off the A-pillar cover). Right now I only have a claxton horn and Rigid lights hooked up since I am waiting for more funds!
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ask a question
Ask a question
Jeep Wrangler Forum
9M posts
468K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Jeep Wrangler owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about reviews, performance, trail riding, gear, suspension, tires, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, for all JL, JT, JK, TJ, YJ, and CJ models!