For those of you who like todo it yourself here are a few tips I learned the last two days while doing my gear change.
You don't have to take the rear ebrake assembly apart. I did so as to clean and adjust mine. You can not put the assembly together with the rear axles installed. Springs just won't cooperate. Very frustrating, but once Inpulled the axles back out it went together in 5 minutes.
Which leads to the next tip. Fill the case with oil last. Pulling the axles will let Gear oil out unless you jack the Jeep up one one side so it runs back to the diff.
The inch pound torque wrench is a must for preload. I made set up bearings of the old bearings on the pinion but used the new bearings on the carrier. There are no shims behind the bearing on the carrier, they fit on the outside of the bearings. This made dust nets on Front and rear easy. No major shimming ( greater then 20 mils) was needed in either case.
Front- same as rear with the exception that you need to jack the jeep up high enough to crawl under comfortably. You will be in and out of there quite a few times.
Both- in order to crush the sleeve I made a 14 inch steel plate 3/4 inch thick to bolt to the yoke. Brace it against the floor and was able to get all the torque needed to loosen the old and tighten the new.
Best of luck to all...
4:10's make all the difference. I can now get up my steep drive with the larger tires in second gear where I used to have to get a running start in first and could never have thought about stopping half way.
I'm looking at doing the same thing, although I don't think myself. I'm currently at 3:21 and am looking to go to 4:10. I am not planning on running anything bigger than 33's. I have an auto so I know there will be some difference.
I was wondering which jeep you had, 2 or 4 door, 3.8 or 3.6? Also what size tires are you running? Now that you have them installed are you happy or wish you would have gone to 4:56 or numerically higher?
Broke in done yesterday. Nice ride then cool down. Now I'll get the 500 miles and the oil change behind me.
Famtruckster14, I have a 2013, JKU 4 door with the 3.6
The 4:10 work for me just fine. If I had gone higher I would have only done 4:56. Just my preference based on how I think I will mostly use the Jeep. I am running 33 inch tires, no lift.
I'm about to do a job to my D35. Pinion and ring are busted. All parts came out fine. But tore up my carrier. I have all new parts but not sure what to do to break in the gears. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks
Adam556. I bought Yukon gears from Jeff at Northridge, sponsoring vendor here. It came with everything I needed, shims, bearings, pinion, ring, gear pattern check, Everything you need is pretty much in the kit but the gear oil. As for the carrier, in the rear I did not need a new carrier. In the front I did as it had the 3:21 gears and you need a carrier for the Dana 30 in order to go any higher. Carrier was only about $150.
The instructions from Yukon are pretty specific on break in. Drive 15 minutes and then let the gear cool down. After that drive for 500 miles and then change gear oil. Inspect fluid to make sure everything looks fine as you normally would when changing the oil in a gear box.
Yup. I went to Jeff at Rockridge when I swapped from 3.21's to 4.10's but I was too intimidated about messing things up and had Jeff do the swap for me. He also set up the rear with a limited slip and the front with an air locker, both from Yukon.
Good components and I got an education from Jeff about gears, diffs and all that stuff. Couldn't be happier with the swap, it's worked out real well for me.