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Old 02-14-2014, 03:16 PM   #1
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Lift Being Installed Now!

OK, If I get my alignment numbers after getting the lift installed today, and I post them, can someone tell me if im good to go without further mods? Doing a coil lift, longer rear SB links (moving rear to front), shocks, and rear Tb bracket. Supposed to be a 2.5" lift, leaving the factory isolators in place. Will driveshaft or CV joints be an issue down the road for 95% on road use?
Thanks!

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Old 02-14-2014, 05:27 PM   #2
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Keep in mind its impossible to answer the question accurately because these are only guidelines. It will depend on how much effective lift you get. The effective lift depends on the brand of the lift and the weight of your vehicle (2Dr, 4Dr, stock, armor, winch, passengers, etc).

If this is a concern, you are picking the right lift because the 2.5" lift category was created/designed to avoid these problems as much as possible. In any case, you are definitely extending the life of your driveline compared to 3.0+" lifts.

Depending on the value of your Camber angle you may need Control Arm drop brackets and/or adjustable front control arms (at least the lowers). Getting both is a good idea if you have budget.

Make sure they torque and check every joint once they bring the hoist down.

Enjoy your new lift!

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Old 02-15-2014, 07:34 AM   #3
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Let us all know how this turns out.
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2007 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax Crew Cab - 6" Rough Country with 295/70/18 Nitto Trail Grappler M/T
2014 JKURX - Anvil 6 speed, hard top, 730N
3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:08 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
Keep in mind its impossible to answer the question accurately because these are only guidelines. It will depend on how much effective lift you get. The effective lift depends on the brand of the lift and the weight of your vehicle (2Dr, 4Dr, stock, armor, winch, passengers, etc). If this is a concern, you are picking the right lift because the 2.5" lift category was created/designed to avoid these problems as much as possible. In any case, you are definitely extending the life of your driveline compared to 3.0+" lifts. Depending on the value of your CASTER angle you may need Control Arm drop brackets and/or adjustable front control arms (at least the lowers). Getting both is a good idea if you have budget. Make sure they torque and check every joint once they bring the hoist down. Enjoy your new lift!
Fixed

Any questions bud just ask ;thumb:
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Old 02-15-2014, 10:17 AM   #5
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Lift Update, Day 1

Came out of a 2011 F-150 Platinum, leveled with 34" Toyo AT's.
Went to:
2012 JK, 3.6, Auto, RC 3.25" col lift (using stock isolators) N2.0 shocks, and dual SS. The lift rides way better than stock, obvious after the 1st mile. I opted for the N2.0 shocks since I am on the road 95% of the time. Lift height excellent. The spacers that came out measured 1.75" and allowed the Nitto 325/65x18's to clear without any issues, but it was all over the road, even with a fresh alignment. The shop who aligned it after the lift stated that it was towed in way too much before. The dual steering stabilizers were not shipped with the kit, but will be here Monday. Even with the dinky stock unit, the Jeep steers, rides, handles WAY better than before. No hart hits, more fluid and better rebound dampening. With the spacer kit that was in there, the rear sway was out of spec, and I am sure did not help. Stock it felt so bad. I can see people beiong turned off by the ride of a stcok jeep with oversize tires.
I expect the ride to improve and reduce bump steep once I install the dual SS kit.

My background- owned 18 trucks (all GM of Ford) since 1976, lifted about half of them. Some were show trucks, and some just trail vehicles, but all were daily drivers. I have run most tires (miss those Denman Groundhawds) sizes, including 40's on a 1978 Chevy.
From what I can say from my experience, 33" mud, or 35" AT tires will work in every case of 4x4ing with small trucks. I have yet to experience off-roading in a Jeep, but hope I have the opportinity soon. Weather in Nashville/Franklin is so bad these days.

Since I am in the mood to type, I just wanted to say that I dont get the lack of love for RC. I live in middle Tennessee, and like the fact that RC is also in the State. What could fail prematurely on this kit over others? I belong to many forums, Les Paul, Canon, Marshall Amps, and it seems that budget or lower cost equipment/upgrades are eschewed as being sup-par to costlier parts. From a family man's perspective who will haul his tribe around almost daily, and who likes to hit a trail occasionally, full blown, or premium equipment sets is simply not always practical. Yes, i'm sorta old at 53, but do know the difference in steel parts when compared.

Now as a newbie, I appreciate all your kind advice, especially KJeeper10, who always has the right info at hand. I look foward to learning from all of you while I enjoy the transision from P/U to Jeep.
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Old 02-15-2014, 10:33 AM   #6
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RC is getting better. I will say though. the dual SS is not really worth it if your rig is driving nice.
I ran the same kit. Sold it and the buyer reported both shocks leaking soon after. Seemed to drive better removing them too. The RC stabs are very firm and having two puts a lot of unwanted stress on the steering box. It's cheap enough ... Just keep a eye on them.
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:01 PM   #7
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:53 PM   #8
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That thing is clean as heck!
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:02 PM   #9
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It's new, a virgin to the mud. I just got her! I also plastidipped the stars on the XD wheels today, not too fond of them. Black looks much better.

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