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Old 02-15-2014, 11:41 PM   #1
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Liftkit Prep work

Hi All I was hoping to get some info and tips to help my lift go smoothly. I have a 2014 JKU Rubicon that Im gonna put a 3.5 AEV RS lift on with 35" AEV Savegre wheels. Wipe your chins its just the begining. I was hoping for some info on part I may need before the lift even begins so I dont hit a snag while its torn apart. If theres any tricks of the trade thatll help the process go along more smoothly for a first attempt at a lift. I will be under supervision of someone who has lifted a jeep before. I was hoping you guys can give me a heads up of what to expect. Thanks

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Old 02-16-2014, 07:28 AM   #2
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I would recommend that you cut the new front shock bushings in half with a grinder. They won't fit as they are now. Also the top shock washers go on crown up, not down. You'll have to cut the plastic fender support to install the shock on the pass side. And it's really gonna suck putting back together and tighten.

Don't remove the front brake line brackets off the jeep until you uncurl them. Use a big vise grips to undo them. Use care not to tear into the brake line. (after the lift is done you'll see the brake lines just hanging there. AEV recommends zip tying them to the shocks. I think it's a bad idea. There are forums dealing with this. Check out the AEV forums on their website too)

At one point AEV says you have to take apart the drive shaft. I didn't and didn't see a need to take it apart. Your call.

Use a powered drill and oil when drilling the front bump stops. I went out and bought a brand new 3/8" drill bit.

The Geo bracket bolt on the pass side will hit the exhaust. Use a big crow bar to convince it.

I put on an AEV 2.5 with 17" savegres and BFG All Terrain 315 70 17 and got about 5" of lift. I also installed the Geo Correction brakets and boy does that make a difference.

Get ready for two days of work if you do it in the driveway or about 8 hours under a lift.
If you have any questions PM me and would love to advise or maybe send some pics.

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Old 02-16-2014, 07:39 AM   #3
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Good floor jack, set of 6 ton jack stands, torque wrench, breaker bar, full set of 1/2 inch sae and metric sockets (if memory serves me right you'll use 21 and 22 mm a lot), and beer for your friend. If you haven't already, make sure you got the exhaust spacer as recommended by AEV. It's not too hard to install and minus the right front shock I had fun putting my 2.5 lift on.
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:24 AM   #4
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Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with me I hope to get this going soon so any info will be good info
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:09 AM   #5
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Loosen all suspension bolts and leave loose until the very end. You are removing any bind and it also helps flex the suspension to get the coils in. You will be torquing with the tires on or stands under the axles. 125 ft lbs for all CA's and track bars except the front upper arms/bracket bolts 75 ft lbs.

You can leave the DS connected just make sure the exhaust is not hot.

Is that the kit with the Highsteer kit (flipped draglink) ? You will need a high power drill with 1/2 chuck and 7/8 drill bit.
Gear wrenches are your best friend. These make the job a lot easier if not using air power.

Use your stock shock bushings if you have troubles. I wouldn't be cutting them in half.

Don't forget un-clip all brake/abs lines. Also the body clip that holds the rear parking brake cables and breather hoses.

Take your time. Rushing is your worst enemy. If you have any problems.. Post or shoot me a PM.
I'll be happy to help.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:55 PM   #6
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Thanks kjeeper for that info. Leaving all the bolts undone sounds like something you'd dove with a car lift. I'll be workin on the ground in the garage. Do I need the exhaust spacer kit. If so where do can I pick that up.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:31 PM   #7
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You don't need a car lift to follow KJeeper's advice. Not following that proper tightening procedure can lead to torquing bolts while the joint is binding. Then you lower the vehicle and when the suspension motion is activated the binding in the joint is released which leaves a loose or improperly torque bolt. The loose bolt can then wallow the hole and this can lead to DW.
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:58 PM   #8
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Is this Exhaust spacer kit necessary or can I make it happen without this kit??
I need days off so I can install
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Old 02-19-2014, 03:26 PM   #9
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You may have to trim your Rubi rails. I know it was too close for comfort on mine so trimmed them down a bit.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi-Dubi-Doo View Post
Is this Exhaust spacer kit necessary or can I make it happen without this kit??
I need days off so I can install
Some 2.5 and almost all lifts 3.0 and higher require the spacers for the 2012 and later Wranglers. The reason is when you articulate with that much lift, the rubber boot on the front drive shaft will make contact with the crossover pipe on the exhaust. Once the boot is compromised, the drive shaft will have to be replaced in short order. If you check AEV's website for the 3.5 lift, the footnote at the bottom of the ad notes that the spacers are required. I have the Teraflex spacers on mine. They cost under $50 bucks, were easy to install, and are cheap insurance to protect the driveshaft.
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:18 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
You don't need a car lift to follow KJeeper's advice. Not following that proper tightening procedure can lead to torquing bolts while the joint is binding. Then you lower the vehicle and when the suspension motion is activated the binding in the joint is released which leaves a loose or improperly torque bolt. The loose bolt can then wallow the hole and this can lead to DW.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:54 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
You don't need a car lift to follow KJeeper's advice. Not following that proper tightening procedure can lead to torquing bolts while the joint is binding. Then you lower the vehicle and when the suspension motion is activated the binding in the joint is released which leaves a loose or improperly torque bolt. The loose bolt can then wallow the hole and this can lead to DW.
Just to make this a little clearer. Finger tight everything on jackstands, lower to the ground and then torque everything?
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:08 AM   #13
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Just to make this a little clearer. Finger tight everything on jackstands, lower to the ground and then torque everything?
Yes, the bushings will be tightened at ride height, not while hanging in a čbind/pinched. All 125 except front uppers 75 ft lbs ń
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:30 PM   #14
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Thanks for all the info. I got the spacer on order. I got a Rancho kit. That's what dude at AEV suggested. A few days off n some buddies away from awesome
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Old 02-27-2014, 06:28 PM   #15
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Day one went off without a hitch. Got the front n rear coil n shocks n geometry brackets put in. Tomorrow exhaust spacer kit high steer. Hit the ground and hope my procal is here. Otherwise I'm running 31s not 35s. Don't laugh it'll still be a BAMF
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Old 03-02-2014, 02:58 PM   #16
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Build complete. Pics to come
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Old 03-02-2014, 03:24 PM   #17
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Rubi - I can't wait to see pics and see what the actual lift ended up being for you. I am going to install mine as well when my jeep comes in so I would, really like to hear about your experience. Just go by directions?? Videos? Let me know what you learned to help my experience better!
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:36 PM   #18
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The site isn't letting me put pics in ill have to figure it out. It raised it 5 inches in the from but I have a winch and steel bumper that was causing it to sag. The back raised up 3.5 inches and it sits as level as day one. It drives 10xs better handling through turns is amazing. Off-road it is pretty stout aswell. I've flexed the suspension and it can hold its own.

The only issue with the build was heating and adding more bend to the exhaust spacer. I had help of a professional so maybe that's why it was so easy but I feel I could have done it on my own.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:30 PM   #19
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Rubi-Doo - still liking the 3.5"? I am about to pull the trigger. If I pm me email to you, will you shoot me email pics?
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi-Dubi-Doo View Post
If theres any tricks of the trade thatll help the process go along more smoothly for a first attempt at a lift.
Read this, all of it:
JK Lift Install & Suspension Lessons Learned
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:27 AM   #21
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Rubi-Doo - still liking the 3.5"? I am about to pull the trigger. If I pm me email to you, will you shoot me email pics?

I'll shoot u dome pics no doubt.

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