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Old 07-29-2014, 11:56 PM   #1
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Light splicing

Hi all. Got an electrical question. Is it possible to splice the fog lights to my headlights? I usually have them on anyway, but I would like to use the stock fog light wiring to rig up some led lights since I dont want to cut holes in my dash for switches. Jeep is a 2014 wrangler sport.

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Old 07-30-2014, 03:22 AM   #2
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The whole electrical system is connected to the CAN bus and the lights specifically are monitored for failure via this bus. This might work but be ready to possibly revert your work. Pluging in extra switches is not as easy as it was in the good 'ol days. For an OEM look you can go with the SPOD.

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Old 07-30-2014, 04:04 AM   #3
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Bad idea.
Besides taxing your stock wiring that is marginal at best, you really really really don't want your fogs on all the time. They flood the foreground with light, cause your pupils to constrict, and limit your distance sight.
Foglights are for driving in fog. Slowly. Just for finding the lines in the road and picking your way along.
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainman6218 View Post
Hi all. Got an electrical question. Is it possible to splice the fog lights to my headlights? I usually have them on anyway, but I would like to use the stock fog light wiring to rig up some led lights since I dont want to cut holes in my dash for switches. Jeep is a 2014 wrangler sport.
This is definitely doable. You would have to make a harness that includes a fuse and a relay. Just trip the relay with the headlight circuit and power the fogs right from the battery. Let me know if you have any questions!

-Ryan
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:00 PM   #5
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Running the switch isn't bad. I used one of those RR A Pillar mounts in my jeep for my KC lights. Super easy, really, it's not bad at all. The A Pillar mount goes right in, has good instructions, and looks factory. If you want, I can take a picture of it installed. Best part, it was cheap.
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Old 08-02-2014, 12:07 PM   #6
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Yea I would like a pic if possible. That's my deal is I want I side to look factory. I'd feel stupid to buy a new vehicle and chop the interior up andante or look awful. Also I am not to skilled with relays and such, all I know is standard conventional 12 v wiring.
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Old 08-02-2014, 03:49 PM   #7
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This is definitely doable. You would have to make a harness that includes a fuse and a relay. Just trip the relay with the headlight circuit and power the fogs right from the battery. Let me know if you have any questions!

-Ryan
The headlight circuit uses PWM and will fry the relay.
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:10 PM   #8
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Taking Hilldweller's advice is the best advice you can get on this forum regarding lighting. If he says don't do it, don't.
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Old 08-02-2014, 07:36 PM   #9
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I tried it and the flickered a whole lot. Ended up rewiring to an sPod.
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:34 PM   #10
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The headlight circuit uses PWM and will fry the relay.
I'm a little confused. Isn't this the same type setup that Daniel Stern uses on his H4 conversions? Original H13 plug at headlight plugs into his harness, which activates a relay which switches direct battery power on to the H4 plugs back at the headlights. What's different that keeps his relays from frying?
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:45 PM   #11
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I have a Stern harness and relays in mine. Installed by PO. Headlight harness triggers 2 relays. Lo/Hi beam. They installed HIDs and an LED pad in the stock headlight. They work great. I am trying to run down some projector housings to replace the stock ones and get these lights squared away. The relays function as they should. No chattering, no heat and light is full and steady. Not sure if '14s are different or no.

Bob K.
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Old 08-03-2014, 05:02 AM   #12
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I'm a little confused. Isn't this the same type setup that Daniel Stern uses on his H4 conversions? Original H13 plug at headlight plugs into his harness, which activates a relay which switches direct battery power on to the H4 plugs back at the headlights. What's different that keeps his relays from frying?
Stern and/or Susquehanna Motorsports uses an capacitor and resistor inline to smooth out the power delivery to the relay to protect it.
The standard PWM duty cycle on my 2008 JK was 4.6v to 12.6v. Every relay has a low voltage tolerance point that you shouldn't exceed.
In other words, yes, they burn. Literally. pfffffft.
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Old 08-03-2014, 06:26 AM   #13
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Doesn't someone make a wireless light? The switch is just surface mount and the lights are naturally wired to the battery
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Stern and/or Susquehanna Motorsports uses an capacitor and resistor inline to smooth out the power delivery to the relay to protect it. The standard PWM duty cycle on my 2008 JK was 4.6v to 12.6v. Every relay has a low voltage tolerance point that you shouldn't exceed. In other words, yes, they burn. Literally. pfffffft.
Thanks for clearing that up. So what XTRyan said was true, just need some additional components.

Spinlock alluded to it and I have no personal experience to back it, but haven't some members had issues wiring LED's directly through the fog light switch due to their lower amp draw causing a fault in the CANBUS?
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:36 AM   #15
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Doesn't someone make a wireless light? The switch is just surface mount and the lights are naturally wired to the battery
I believe Warn makes a series of wireless lights.
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Old 08-03-2014, 01:53 PM   #16
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Thanks for clearing that up. So what XTRyan said was true, just need some additional components.

Spinlock alluded to it and I have no personal experience to back it, but haven't some members had issues wiring LED's directly through the fog light switch due to their lower amp draw causing a fault in the CANBUS?
It's not a fault ---- the circuit is pulsewidth modulated. It's a squarewave that varies in voltage, an intelligent circuit. It communicates via this modulation.
It's so fast that it doesn't affect a burning filament. But an LED will pulse along with it. A good LED won't care; a cheap LED will fry.
Same remedy. Capacitor and resistor.

I have new meter. If I get the itch, I'll record the duty cycle of the foglights.

You still don't want foglights on all the time. You just can't see as well.
There is such a thing as too much light --- it's all relative to placement.
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Old 08-04-2014, 07:56 AM   #17
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Sorry it took me so long to get a picture up. I had a busy weekend, and rarely get online on the weekends anyhow. I know the picture isn't great, but the camera on my IPHONE blows donkey balls. This is what it looks like installed with a RR switch. As you can see, the Pillar mount has a spot for 3 more switches. (Lockers!!!)



My KC lights were very easy. You can punch through into the cab right at the top of the hood on the drivers side. There is some foam insulation that is really easy to get through. Run your wires from the lights into the cab there, the power/ground to the battery. I'm assuming the lights you have came with a harness. If not, just order a harness and rock and roll. Don't skimp on the harness though, get a good one.
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:45 PM   #18
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Yea I guess you all are right, il run a separate switch. But mine doesn't have the layout pictures there, only spot designed for extra switches is where the hazards and the esc off switches are. Also I do t have the extra led lights yet but what are the best bang fort buck? I don't want go too big

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