X3 on the Eaton (Detroit) TrueTrac gear driven limited slip. When I purchased the 2011 JK it came with an open differential and had the TT installed; good for daily driving, good for moderate offroading and good in snow and ice (with good tires).
Wow..
5 votes for Tru-Trac, & not one good explanation why.
Can somebody please explain the mechanical reasoning behind recommending a Tru-Trac for an off-road/daily driver, other than Detroit/Eatons marketing propaganda..
This is the second thread I've seen recently regarding LSD diffs, without much actual mechanical reasoning behind the posted recommendations (I'm talking real thoughts/explanations, not 'cut & paste' info)
^^^^^
Because worm gear differentials are an excellent design principal. Gleason Torsen, AAM Trac-Rite and the Tru-Trac are all examples of this. No clutches or chattering. No special oil. Seamless operation and no pre-load or ratchets to make them dangerous in very slippery conditions.
Do some research on the various styles and you'll begin to see the advantages.
Ok.. so another 'generalized' post that offers no actual mechanical explanation/advantage regarding it's point of view.
Why are torsion diffs better than clutch diffs?
What is the 'design principal'?
Whats the issue with 'pre-load'?
What do you mean by 'seamless' operation?
Ratchets? What the hell are you even talking about??
I don't need to research, I know the actual differences/advantages/disadvantages. I just don't think you do, nor anyone else who posted here.
Yep, I'm calling all of you out.
Because I think all of you should explain the 'whys' of your recommendation, in detail.
You all jumped in on this post, you owe the OP at least that much..
Actually, I do understand them and just mentioned some advantages. Just curious, but since you already know everything, why are you asking?
Since you already know everything, maybe you can explain the worm gear principal in differentials. Or why pre-loaded clutches can be more dangerous and less effective? Or why a ratchet system is less stable in corners? Ooops, that might take some research.
I don't know why people bother giving "ASE" the time of day, go look at his other posts. Nothing more than a self-proclaimed expert with trollish behavior. If people stop feeding him them maybe he'll just go away.
I haven't used a truetrack so I won't recommend it without experience with it. I myself like a adjustable locker open diff on the street closed when you need it. Good in the front good in the back
Ace MasterTech what's up with you on this thread?
If your such an expert enlighten us.
Also as you "jumped in on this post, you owe the OP at least that much.."
Nothing you posted here is anything other than criticism and calling out other forum members.
From what I've seen in this thread maybe changing you username to Arse MasterTech would be fitting.
BTW: I have a True-Trac and am quite pleased with it's performance and recommend it also.
To ASE's credit there are benefits and draw backs to each a torsion or clutch based diff, but I mean if you're going to "call everyone out" the least you could do is educate us. I think that's why we're all here is to learn something. I guess unless you know everything.... Then you can just call everyone out without adding anything beneficial to the conversation.
Here's my limited understanding...torsion based systems work off a bias of the torque between the 2 wheels which can be a benefit over a clutch pack. This allows a torsion based diff to start transferring power sooner than a clutch pack. However it working off of a bias in torque is also its biggest draw back. It doesn't work unless you have a bias..... So in situations where you have one wheel off the ground I have to put the benefit toward the clutch based systems.
With torsen it is gear driven so it is a direct transfer of torque, there isn't any slop or chatter that you might get when the clutch packs are compressed. Think about a direct drive motorcycle vs a chain driven. Direct drive the acceleration is smooth from take off. Chain driven you can get a clunk at tge beggining of acceleration because you have to wait for tension on all of the links of the chain before it drives forward. Same with clutch packs, you have to wait for all friction plates to be compressed against the steels before it fully engages and when it finally does you can kind of get a clunk.
Just an FYI for the OP changing out the carrier with a Truetrac will be around the labor cost for a gear change. Also with stock gears a truetrac in the rear will need to be drilled out to 1/2" which is not a huge deal, but it is an added expense. So if you are planning changing your gears now would be the time or wait until you are ready for that.
I did have a Yukon Dura Grip limited slip in the rear of my JK at one point. It is an "aggressive" limited slip with a lot of pre-load on the clutches. This was great in mud, sand, loose rocks, and just fine on the street. Excellent traction!
Where it fell short was on icy/snowy roads (paved or dirt) when it would "lock up" the rear tires, making both of them spin together like an old muscle car with posi, doing a burnout... Lots of fishtailing... This is NOT a good thing on a narrow mountain road with BIG dropoffs...
So.... Despite long having been a champion of the rear LSD in 4x4 trucks, I replaced the Yukon Dura Grip with an aftermarket air-operated locker. Front and rear air-lockers give me a lot of options and a JK that drives very nicely. I can even run it in 2wd with the rear locked if I want. That can be fun in the right situation!
I was the first one to respond in this thread....so I'll give it a go.
I didn't really look at marketing. My previous Jeep had open diffs and I hated it (luckily it did have Selec-trac which used a viscous coupling...and that helped). When I ordered my JK, I did a lot of research and one of my bigger internal debates was choosing between ordering factory LSD, or going with an aftermarket unit. Being "streetable" was a huge deal for me because I don't do hardcore off-roading, but I do live in Chicago-land, so winter is big factor. I also knew I would never run anything larger than 33's. When looking through the options and gathering feedback (not just here but from other Jeep forums, including one that I joined back in 2008) I noticed that the TT was consistently highly recommended by Jeepers (not just those in JK's). While I've seen a few broken, the overwhelming majority had glowing reports. I looked into them and what found is that they were quiet, smooth, and did not require replacing any clutch packs. The bias ratio on the TT's are within acceptable street range, but higher than that of a stock unit for better use on trails. The TT's don't wear out where clutch plates (which can be rebuilt) do, but some cones cannot be.
Just had the tru-tracs installed front and rear a couple weeks ago.
Finally got to use them the other day in the snow and ice we got. I never used 4wheel drive at all the rear worked out perfectly I am impressed with them.
Would you share what your cost was per unit installed? Thanks,,It will help me decide which way to go...I talked to my Jeep dealer this PM,and they wanted 3500.00 to install just the rear...
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