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Old 02-21-2011, 02:25 PM   #1
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Lockers and ESP

Alright boys and girls. I am planning on a regear in the next month or so and am still undecided on the locker. I am pretty sure I want one down the road so to try and save some money, which we all know is impossible with a seemingly endless list of mods to the Jeep, I would like to install it at the same time I am getting a regear.

I am presently running a 2010 sport 6-speed. I am planning on going to 4.88 gearing. What is the best bang for the buck so to speak for lockers? I was looking at the ARB e-lockers before, but wasn't sure if air or electric would be more robust.

Also I am thinking of just running one in the rear. Any thoughts on that?

How do the lockers affect ESP, if at all?

Many questions have I (as yoda says).

Cheers,
Mo

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Old 02-21-2011, 02:32 PM   #2
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ARB doesn't make a Electronic Locker

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Old 02-21-2011, 02:34 PM   #3
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Maybe it was an Eaton?
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:42 PM   #4
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ARB is the best locker out there. Works off an air hose. Having the air compressor comes in realk handy for airing up at the end of the day.

Locking you would do in 4-lo and so I don't think ESP would apply - so no effect
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:51 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Raidue View Post
Maybe it was an Eaton?
Yep maybe.. I know they make a auto locker but not sure if they make a selectable one
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog View Post
ARB is the best locker out there. Works off an air hose. Having the air compressor comes in realk handy for airing up at the end of the day.

Locking you would do in 4-lo and so I don't think ESP would apply - so no effect
Good point.
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Old 02-22-2011, 02:41 AM   #7
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What about running an Aussie locker up front?
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:16 PM   #8
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Anyone running an Auburn ECTED in the rear? Would be interested in hearing some feedback.
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:39 PM   #9
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I just have one locker & it is in the rear & is the factory Rubicon Electric selectable. I love it, zero problems & what a difference it makes.
After doing lots of research, I learned that if you are only going with one, put it in the rear. Others will dissagree, but I have no regreats!!

Plus, I can lock her up in 2 hi & do the best donuts in the school parking lot when it snows.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07XMan2Door
I just have one locker & it is in the rear & is the factory Rubicon Electric selectable. I love it, zero problems & what a difference it makes.
After doing lots of research, I learned that if you are only going with one, put it in the rear. Others will dissagree, but I have no regreats!!

Plus, I can lock her up in 2 hi & do the best donuts in the school parking lot when it snows.
Very smart if you are doing one on a jk to do it in the rear. The rear dana 44 is a hell of alot stronger than the front 30. If you put it in the front you have to sleeve your axle, otherwise the strain and binding from a locker will break your axle. The front axle is offcentered so it is much weaker than a rear axle. If you dont mind me asking, how much did it cost you to get the electric locker in the rear from a rubi?
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:33 AM   #11
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. Good to know. Thanks guys.

I didn't think the Rubi electric locker fit into the non-Rubi 44? That would be an excellent option if it did. It's a 4 pin unit versus the 2 pin ECTED, is it not?

From what I understand the Auburn ECTED works must like a posi or LSD when it is disengaged so you are not running an open carrier at any point. I was told it isn't an issue you just have to adapt your driving style and get used to it on slippery surfaces.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:35 AM   #12
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The other thing I had heard is that even running axle sleeves up front since the ring and pinions are so small you could still break it at the pumpkin from shear forces when one of the tires spins fast and the other isn't or hitting a rock hard with one wheel.

I don't know enough about the interaction exactly so I'm not sure and I am by no means an expert on this stuff!
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:58 AM   #13
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Very smart if you are doing one on a jk to do it in the rear. The rear dana 44 is a hell of alot stronger than the front 30. If you put it in the front you have to sleeve your axle, otherwise the strain and binding from a locker will break your axle. The front axle is offcentered so it is much weaker than a rear axle. If you dont mind me asking, how much did it cost you to get the electric locker in the rear from a rubi?
I paid 650 for the entire Rubicon rear end, 5.13's, locker, heavyier shafts than the X Dana 44. I just hard wired it so the lockerdoes what I tell it to, no computer involved. That's why I can lock it in 2 hi if I choose. Can't do that whith a stock Rubi.

Quote:
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. Good to know. Thanks guys.

I didn't think the Rubi electric locker fit into the non-Rubi 44? That would be an excellent option if it did. It's a 4 pin unit versus the 2 pin ECTED, is it not?

From what I understand the Auburn ECTED works must like a posi or LSD when it is disengaged so you are not running an open carrier at any point. I was told it isn't an issue you just have to adapt your driving style and get used to it on slippery surfaces.
Again, I switched entire reaer ends, Don't know if a Rubi locker would fit in am X Dana 44 diff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raidue View Post
The other thing I had heard is that even running axle sleeves up front since the ring and pinions are so small you could still break it at the pumpkin from shear forces when one of the tires spins fast and the other isn't or hitting a rock hard with one wheel.

I don't know enough about the interaction exactly so I'm not sure and I am by no means an expert on this stuff!
The dana 30 ring & pinion are smaller than the 44, & when you gear it down, the ring gets stronger but the pinion gets even smaller/ weaker. Gear contact surfaces are much smaller. I was told by many specialists NOT to lock the 30 for that reaon.

Axle sleeves up front are ALWAYS a good idea. Sleeves & "C's" should be one of the first mods we do. Much more important than winches & bumpers, IMO
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:14 PM   #14
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What about running an Aussie locker up front?
Depends on where you live
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:22 PM   #15
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Once you add up the costs of sleeving, gussets, lockers, gearing, and labor to build up a D30 you approach the cost of a D44 front axle. Which is my plan; I am saving up to replace my axle.
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Old 02-23-2011, 02:53 PM   #16
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Once you add up the costs of sleeving, gussets, lockers, gearing, and labor to build up a D30 you approach the cost of a D44 front axle. Which is my plan; I am saving up to replace my axle.
I agree with the sleeving and gussets, but the lockers and gearing are still something you will have to shell out money for in addition to get what you want/need.
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:06 PM   #17
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ARBs rock. Mine are now 13 years old with 600,000+ miles on them and they are flawless, period. No errors at this time.

Robert
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:37 AM   #18
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ARBs rock. Mine are now 13 years old with 600,000+ miles on them and they are flawless, period. No errors at this time.

Robert
That's a pretty good testament to quality as it sounds like you have taken your jeep around the world through some pretty harsh conditions.

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