MetalCloak Dual Rate 2.5 vs. RK 2.5 Flex System - Page 2 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:42 AM   #31
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I'm probably gonna go with RK. Being an engineer, I like the component approach to things. You can start with their most basic system and add all the parts piecemeal until you have their top of the line system. I thought this might be the expensive way to go, but to start with the 2.5 stock RK, then upgrade to the Flex, Max Travel and X Factor would cost you an additional $112. Not bad if you can't afford the top of the line to start with. The only question I need to chew on for this approach is what does it mean to their warranty.

I also followed the thread http://http://www.wranglerforum.com/...ed-391802.html. RK came through and helped the guy out. As the tital says, "issue resolved". Not many companies will stand behind their product. Chrysler being one that doesn't.
Being an engineer, I'm surprised you don't take more of a micro approach in regards to analyzing the individual components. I recommend you do that.

The whole "upgrade as you go" method can be done with anything....purchase a package of 'starter' components initially and more later on as you go. And on that note, RK isn't the only company that stands behind their products. In fact, the other company mentioned in this thread does a fantastic job of that as well.

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Old 11-21-2013, 10:11 AM   #32
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I like that when you order stuff from MC they give you a call to make sure you got what you needed. No pressure to buy anything else, just wanting to reach out and touch their customers. Its a little thing but its nice.

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Old 11-21-2013, 11:52 AM   #33
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One other difference I noticed between the RK 2.5 Flex System and the MC Dual Rate 2.5 kit is that the MC kit comes with new upper front control arms and the RK kit comes with new lower front control arms.

Both are adjustable for getting everything set up right. However, the lower arms that come with the RK kit are "high Clearance". With the MC kit you retain the stock lower arms.

Any thoughts on this? Would you pay extra to get new lower front arms with the MC kit?

My main reason for even looking at lifts is to get a better ride both on and off the road and clearance for off road. FYI - not really rocks around here, more ruts and uneven ground than anything.

By the way, this thread was not started as a way to argue or create conflict between those who follow one manufacturer or the other. I know both are quality suspension companies and I am just trying to gather as much research and knowledge as I can so that I can make the best decision for me prior to letting go of my money.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:17 PM   #34
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Personally would prefer lowers for caster, but they are more expensive.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:36 PM   #35
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Magoo I've looked at both kits and I believe MC includes the upper arms instead of the lower to save cost on the kit. Upper arms cost roughly $120 more than lowers from Metal Cloak so that price increase would increase the gap even more compared to similar Rock Krawler kits.

I've thought about buying a RK kit mainly for the Tri-rate springs and lower cost and then use the MC front LCAs instead of the RK arms. Seems like the best of both worlds.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:55 PM   #36
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i have the MC 2.5 ARB lift with OME shocks on a 13 JKU- The ride is great both off and on road. I frequently do trips from SC to MD as well as hit orv parks several times a month. If i had to make the decision again on a new jeep- it would be MC again, and again, and again. Plus the customer service is at MC is great as mentioned above. The only drawback to using their product is that there are not a ton of vendors that sell their items, so you end up getting from them, and for me being in SC- it takes a bit to get things from Cali, plus they are busy and some of their items are a few weeks out to even ship. In my opinion- well worth the wait for their items..
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:03 PM   #37
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Thanks Bsimon - do you know your actual lift heights ? I am thinking of the MC 2.5/3.5 - but am not loaded with bumpers and winch. For the install - did you have to manuever any existing "stuff" - muffler etc. Driveshaft okay ? Would like to minimize this type of trauma.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:21 PM   #38
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With the MC (and most lifts) exhaust and such are all fine. Driveshafts are usually the problem on lifted JKs. The front shaft boot will make contact on droop and get torn. This is a non-serviceable item and what keeps the grease in the slip shaft. The solution is to either never take it offroad or to upgrade your front driveshaft. Most aftermarket driveshafts will be smaller in diameter (only 2"), but much thicker walled tubing than the tin foil wall of the stock JK driveshaft, so even though they're smaller, it's a much stronger part. The additional clearance helps eliminate contact.
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:21 PM   #39
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Thanks Bsimon - do you know your actual lift heights ? I am thinking of the MC 2.5/3.5 - but am not loaded with bumpers and winch. For the install - did you have to manuever any existing "stuff" - muffler etc. Driveshaft okay ? Would like to minimize this type of trauma.
I got about 3.25 of lift in total. I did do the exhaust spacer at the time of install as well. The driveshafts were good until I flexed them completely and tore both boots, but I have dented skids and such. Just gives me more reason to get my tom woods drive shafts sooner. Most aftermarket drive shafts don't come with those boots anyway. My driveshaft boots would be good if I did not do what I did in the picture. Will and Matson are great on the phone if you have any questions before you decide to buy.
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:50 PM   #40
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Yea, drive shafts would be my biggest concern. Would I have to replace them if I went with the MC 2.5 dual rate kit? How much money are we talking? I don't think I could afford to do that as well as the lift.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:00 PM   #41
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Yea, drive shafts would be my biggest concern. Would I have to replace them if I went with the MC 2.5 dual rate kit? How much money are we talking? I don't think I could afford to do that as well as the lift.
If you don't go do complete flexing you will be fine. I had been to several orv parks for months before I flexed out on the ramp. No issues until I flexed completely out, and I had some difficult trails.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:26 PM   #42
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How much would a drive shaft run?

Front only or both front and back?

Who from for a quality but not break the bank drive shaft?
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:35 PM   #43
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How much would a drive shaft run? Front only or both front and back? Who from for a quality but not break the bank drive shaft?
Tom woods is pretty popular- that is what i ordered already. You can find them for around $450 each.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:44 PM   #44
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Tom woods is pretty popular- that is what i ordered already. You can find them for around $450 each.
Okay. Thanks. Do you need to both at the same time or just the front? Is it a major mod to do or a simple replacement? Are there other components needed when do this?

Thanks for the help and info.
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:49 PM   #45
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Front if you are going to be dropping the axle off road. Rear can wait just grab some upper CA's to lesson the angle. Matter of fact.... Rock stock until they fail

Fwiw ... ADAMS offers great drive shafts with spicer joints for a lot less then Tw.
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:25 PM   #46
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Okay so I guess I can run with stock shafts for a while.

Is a new front shaft a major mod to do or a simple replacement? Are there other components needed when do this?
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:31 PM   #47
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Okay so I guess I can run with stock shafts for a while. Is a new front shaft a major mod to do or a simple replacement? Are there other components needed when do this?
Fairly simple install. You might need CA's to dial in pinion angle.
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:40 PM   #48
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I've been running with stock shafts on my RK 2.5 max travel with no problem for about 20k miles. I don't wheel that hardcore or anything so it could be a reason why its lasting longer. I do have the exhaust spacers installed to. I guess depending on how you wheel it, you can get by without a driveshaft for a while.
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:11 AM   #49
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I've been running with stock shafts on my RK 2.5 max travel with no problem for about 20k miles. I don't wheel that hardcore or anything so it could be a reason why its lasting longer. I do have the exhaust spacers installed to. I guess depending on how you wheel it, you can get by without a driveshaft for a while.
I'm sure this has been answered a million times but I'm gonna ask, how much lift did this give you? I always 2.5" lifts give closer to 3 or 3.5" of actual lift. Also do you have stock bumpers or heavier after market?
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:13 AM   #50
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I'm sure this has been answered a million times but I'm gonna ask, how much lift did this give you? I always 2.5" lifts give closer to 3 or 3.5" of actual lift. Also do you have stock bumpers or heavier after market?
You have a 4 door. With weight you will be close to 2.5". Without a little more.
I have a 2 door and am almost 4" with RK coils.
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:21 PM   #51
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I'm sure this has been answered a million times but I'm gonna ask, how much lift did this give you? I always 2.5" lifts give closer to 3 or 3.5" of actual lift. Also do you have stock bumpers or heavier after market?
I want to say closer to 3 inches of overall lift. I cant remember the exact number though. I do remember we measured it a week or so after the lift was installed so the springs would settle. That's with it basically stock. Stock bumpers and all.
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:36 PM   #52
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Front if you are going to be dropping the axle off road. Rear can wait just grab some upper CA's to lesson the angle. Matter of fact.... Rock stock until they fail

Fwiw ... ADAMS offers great drive shafts with spicer joints for a lot less then Tw.
Thanks for the info on Adams ds.. i was completely set on tw's ds.. but now, adams seems like the way to go.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:12 PM   #53
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Thanks for the info on Adams ds.. i was completely set on tw's ds.. but now, adams seems like the way to go.
Np
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:50 AM   #54
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Thanks for the info on Adams ds.. i was completely set on tw's ds.. but now, adams seems like the way to go.
Feel free to get in touch on the Adam's. We sell them (and offer a really great deal on a front/rear package) and they're what I run on my rig now. No need to measure for lengths unless you've got some one off customer stuff or wheelbase stretch. I've already got them.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:47 PM   #55
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Feel free to get in touch on the Adam's. We sell them (and offer a really great deal on a front/rear package) and they're what I run on my rig now. No need to measure for lengths unless you've got some one off customer stuff or wheelbase stretch. I've already got them.
Did Adams raise their prices and/or add a yoke replacement to the front diff?
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:00 PM   #56
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Feel free to get in touch on the Adam's. We sell them (and offer a really great deal on a front/rear package) and they're what I run on my rig now. No need to measure for lengths unless you've got some one off customer stuff or wheelbase stretch. I've already got them.
Thanks Chris! Will do sending you a pm now..
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:48 PM   #57
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Did Adams raise their prices and/or add a yoke replacement to the front diff?
They did at the beginning of 2013. They were a bit cheaper last year. Adam's still uses the flange on the front.
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:59 PM   #58
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They did at the beginning of 2013. They were a bit cheaper last year. Adam's still uses the flange on the front.
Huh .. Well that kind of stinks.

Thank you !!

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