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Old 02-02-2014, 07:45 PM   #1
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Metalcloak Dual-Rate 3.5" without drive shafts?

In the not to distant future (I hope) I am looking at going with Metalcloak Dual-Rate lift and I am trying to decide on the 2.5 or the 3.5. My jeep is my daily driver and I plan on bumpers (at some point). I know when you hit over 2.5 you are looking at replacement drive shafts. My question is, is it possible to get away with just exhaust spacers on the 3.5in lift and no drive shafts?

My jeep is a 14 JKU. As of right now I do not plan on going bigger than 33in tires.

Any advise or insight on this?

Thanks!

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Old 02-02-2014, 08:11 PM   #2
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Front doesn't matter 2/4 door. Spacers will help but with the height and if you disco. The Cv joint will eventually fail. If not soon but later.
If using control arms you'll want to be careful with caster also. 2.5" there's less worry's, but it's always good to keep a eye on the boot.

The rear should be ok... Are you adding upper control arms for pinion angle ?

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Old 02-02-2014, 09:22 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Front doesn't matter 2/4 door. Spacers will help but with the height and if you disco. The Cv joint will eventually fail. If not soon but later.
If using control arms you'll want to be careful with caster also. 2.5" there's less worry's, but it's always good to keep a eye on the boot.

The rear should be ok... Are you adding upper control arms for pinion angle ?
The kit comes with front upper control arms. They are adjustable and I am still a bit foggy on how to measure for the proper fit. After the install I will be taking it for an alignment at an off road friendly shop.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:02 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by foosa View Post
The kit comes with front upper control arms. They are adjustable and I am still a bit foggy on how to measure for the proper fit. After the install I will be taking it for an alignment at an off road friendly shop.
Front uppers only will be set a small amount shorter then stock to lower the pinion for caster. Shoot for around 4*. Like I said don't push it or too much pinion angle will harm the DS.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:29 PM   #5
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You can always believe 99% of what kjeeper10 says.
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Old 02-05-2014, 04:38 PM   #6
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Thanks for the info guys. Sorry it took so long to get back but I have been on call all week, fun times.

I am leaning towards the 2.5in lift at this point. With that plus tires I think I will be siting about where I would like the jeep. Next question I have on this is about shocks.

The lift I am looking at does not comes with shocks, I am leaning towards a set of Bilstein 5100. They seem to be reasonably priced and pretty highly rated as well. Does anybody have experience with this shock on this lift? If so how do you like it?

Thanks again
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:04 PM   #7
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Hi foosa - i'm about to put the same lift (on my 2013 JKU). I am also gonna stay at 2.5" to (hopefully) avoid driveshaft problems in the short term. for shocks i think i will be going with the "tuned" OME from metal cloak for the extra $400. not the cheapest shock but they have good reviews. i have two friends with the Bilstein 5100s who complained about the very firm ride. however, neither of them did a comparison with OME so maybe they are even worse - but at least the yellow shocks look cool!
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:49 PM   #8
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OME's are commonly used with MC coils.
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:17 PM   #9
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Stick with 2.5" and you should be fine without a drive shaft. Not to mention if your only running 33s. I run 37s on 3.5".
I know plenty of people running, 33s with no lift at all.
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:27 PM   #10
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Just be aware MC's "2.5" lift is with weight. It's not uncommon to see 3 or even 3.5"
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:08 PM   #11
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I too am leaning towards the metal cloak 2.5 lift with 33's. I have already added the weight, about 200lbs on front and 150lbs on rear do you think I'll get that lift out of it.
I dropped about 1,3/8" in front and 1" in back on the stock springs
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:41 PM   #12
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I would leave the stock driveshafts on until they start to make noise. However, I would expect them to fail and would be saving up the money to get new ones as soon as i got the lift.


Make sure to get extended brake lines, and if you get the rugged ridge/omix ada extended brake lines, make sure they're not covered under the recent recall. The brake lines get awfully tight with any lift in my opinion. Adjustable control arms and pointing the rear pumpkin at the transfer case will positively break the brake lines.


And if the lift includes adjustable control arms, you wont need any other crap to get those aftermarket driveshafts.

I run tatton 1310 driveshafts. Very nice product, and looks really nice under the jeep.

double cardan driveshafts are a lot more likely to vibrate a bit than the stock ones. But the stock ones cant handle the angles the lift will cause, and the boots will break. The tubes are also really weak....
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:46 PM   #13
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Hi foosa - i'm about to put the same lift (on my 2013 JKU). I am also gonna stay at 2.5" to (hopefully) avoid driveshaft problems in the short term. for shocks i think i will be going with the "tuned" OME from metal cloak for the extra $400. not the cheapest shock but they have good reviews. i have two friends with the Bilstein 5100s who complained about the very firm ride. however, neither of them did a comparison with OME so maybe they are even worse - but at least the yellow shocks look cool!
My jeep came with rancho 9000s, they were going bad when i bought the jeep, so i bought rancho 5000s (much cheaper than 9000s but not adjustable). They were fine with stock tires, but when i put duratracs on, those were too darn stiff, so i put 9000s back on it. The 9000s adjust from soft to way too firm.

Rancho is probably not alone in making a shock thats too stiff.

I wouldn't really want a non adjustable shock on my jeep again.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:43 PM   #14
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I agree with Adam leave your stock shafts until you have major problems. The first one will be the rubber will tear. How long your driveshafts will last depends on how much you flex the suspension off road and how much effective lift you get from the MC kit. In any case it will give you signs of wear.

If it's a DD and this is a concern just go with the 2.5" lift. This is the main reason many manufacturers offer the 2.5" kits.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:49 PM   #15
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I only have a 2.5" lift
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:32 AM   #16
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I too am leaning towards the metal cloak 2.5 lift with 33's. I have already added the weight, about 200lbs on front and 150lbs on rear do you think I'll get that lift out of it.
I dropped about 1,3/8" in front and 1" in back on the stock springs
I did. With the 2.5" GCL I got 3.25 in the front and 3.5 in the rear. Mine is a 2 door hard top with steel bumpers, winch, and sliders. Going to 35s brought the total lift to 4.5" in the front and 4.25" in the rear. The wheel portion of the lift has no effect on the drive shaft angle in the front. But with the full size spare pulling the rear down .5" it should slightly improve the rear angle.
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:02 AM   #17
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Thanks for that reply and info, pretty much seals it for me, now to get the slush fund built up.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:29 AM   #18
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i would call the guys at MC. i did, they recommended 3.5" over 2.5" for 4 door.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:04 AM   #19
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i would call the guys at MC. i did, they recommended 3.5" over 2.5" for 4 door.
Why did they recommend the 3.5?
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:29 AM   #20
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for the added clearance and break over point or break over angle. the tech said the difference of wear and tear between the 2.5 and the 3.5 on their lifts is negligible if it even exists.

again i want to be careful i don't' say the wrong thing, i am no expert. but after i got off the phone the 3.5 was a no brainer (and its not like they up-selling, its same cost).
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:29 PM   #21
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depending on the weight of your jeep height difference between the 2.5" and the 3.5" coils could be "too much" for the stock driveshafts.

of course, this may be the excuse you are looking for to buy new shafts anyway..... :happy yes:

personally i'm gonna do the 2.5 coils and hope to get some mileage from the stock shafts. and i'll change them out when i upgrade axles and go to bigger tires in the future.
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:24 PM   #22
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Is the only difference between the two lifts the coils height, the CA's and track bars are the same. If so, you could swap out just the coils later if Need be.
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:30 PM   #23
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Is the only difference between the two lifts the coils height, the CA's and track bars are the same. If so, you could swap out just the coils later if Need be.
The shocks are the same?
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:49 PM   #24
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IDK, my post was a question also, though I probably didn't express that correctly.
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:57 PM   #25
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MC and RK will say the same thing for the 4-doors. The 3.5 is preferable for the reasons listed above. I am still chewing on all this.
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:16 PM   #26
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IDK, my post was a question also, though I probably didn't express that correctly.
I think both the shocks and coils are different, but that's all.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:18 PM   #27
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I've been running the MC Lite 3.5" for about a year on my 4 door with 37's and I'm still running stock shafts. I've been wheeling a number of times, flexing a good amount in the off-road parks. I'd definitely go for the 3.5" over the 2.5" for looks, and in case you ever want larger tires.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:29 PM   #28
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The shocks are the same?
OMEs? yes.
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:21 AM   #29
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Anybody running Fox 2.0 IFPs with MC coils?
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:25 AM   #30
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OMEs? yes.
Thanks. That means if I ever want to bump up to 3.5" I just need to change springs.

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