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Old 01-14-2014, 07:22 AM   #1
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METALCLOAK GCL install???

Hello everyone in a few weeks I'm going to be helping install the 3.5 GCL on my buddies JKU just wondering if there are any tips or tricks out there before we get started. Than in a few months and a few pennies later I will be ordering a kit for myself. So I just want to make these installs as smooth as possible.

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Old 01-14-2014, 08:25 AM   #2
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Nothing really surprising. I changed all my bolts out at the same time. The one thing in the instructions that pissed me off was the rear track bar relocation bracket has to be installed with the drivers side LCA and shock, otherwise you will have to partially remove them again to get the bracket on.

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Old 01-14-2014, 08:51 AM   #3
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Nothing really surprising. I changed all my bolts out at the same time. The one thing in the instructions that pissed me off was the rear track bar relocation bracket has to be installed with the drivers side LCA and shock, otherwise you will have to partially remove them again to get the bracket on.
Thanks for the information will ensure I do it that way, so how do you like the set up?
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:22 AM   #4
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Thanks for the information will ensure I do it that way, so how do you like the set up?
I have the 2.5" and love it. Rides as good as stock but corners better.

Edit: I realized my first post was a little ambiguous so thought I would clarify. One of the bolts that hold the track bar relocation bracket in place is the DS LCA bolt at the axle so you want to install those simultaneously. The bolt that holds the track bar to the relocation bracket cannot be installed with the top of the shock mounted, so you want to bolt the DS of the trackbar in place before attaching the upper shock bolts. You do not have to install the other trackbar bolt at that time. You can simply just lay the PS of the trackbar on the axle. Is that clear enough? I'm not the greatest at explaining things without pictures.
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:56 AM   #5
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This question is asked a lot.

-Take your time #1
-Loosen all Ca bolts and TB bolts (if replacing then leave loose)
-6 ton jack stands for height to help get the coils in
-Right tools for the job. Breaker bar, torque wrench, pry par, etc
- if you run into a problem .... We are here to help
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:05 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by 14Sport View Post

I have the 2.5" and love it. Rides as good as stock but corners better.

Edit: I realized my first post was a little ambiguous so thought I would clarify. One of the bolts that hold the track bar relocation bracket in place is the DS LCA bolt at the axle so you want to install those simultaneously. The bolt that holds the track bar to the relocation bracket cannot be installed with the top of the shock mounted, so you want to bolt the DS of the trackbar in place before attaching the upper shock bolts. You do not have to install the other trackbar bolt at that time. You can simply just lay the PS of the trackbar on the axle. Is that clear enough? I'm not the greatest at explaining things without pictures.
thanks for the clarification on that I was trying to picture it in my head but I got it now
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:00 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
This question is asked a lot.

-Take your time #1
-Loosen all Ca bolts and TB bolts (if replacing then leave loose)
-6 ton jack stands for height to help get the coils in
-Right tools for the job. Breaker bar, torque wrench, pry par, etc
- if you run into a problem .... We are here to help
Posts like this make me proud to be a part of the Jeep community.
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:23 PM   #8
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Posts like this make me proud to be a part of the Jeep community.
Thanks bud
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Old 01-14-2014, 01:00 PM   #9
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Maybe a dumb post. But replacing the brake lines came later in the instructions. I would have saved myself a lot of time with spring compression if I would have just done brake lines first to give more room for suspension drop.

I was very new to wrenching. Took me more time, but got it done. Even had a 4x4 shop that did my alignment offer me a job. Haha.
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:12 PM   #10
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Maybe a dumb post. But replacing the brake lines came later in the instructions. I would have saved myself a lot of time with spring compression if I would have just done brake lines first to give more room for suspension drop.

I was very new to wrenching. Took me more time, but got it done. Even had a 4x4 shop that did my alignment offer me a job. Haha.
Nope every lift kit is different with little things that save time. Better to know now that halfway though something then pull the same part off again. Thanks
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:40 AM   #11
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Great points. I will add them to the instruction thread at metalcloakinstructions.com

Thank you!
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:43 AM   #12
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Great points. I will add them to the instruction thread at metalcloakinstructions.com

Thank you!
Speaks a lot for your company that you listen to your customers and make changes accordingly. Metalcloak is on my future list of mods.
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:13 AM   #13
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I know I called probably 5 times during the install alone. They were always very helpful! I can't say enough good things about metalcloak. I highly recommend them!
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:18 AM   #14
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:35 AM   #15
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Awesome video I found it a while back on YouTube
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:38 AM   #16
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if you run into any problems send me a pm ill get it on my phone.

metal cloak sent me a tshirt for that video.
apparently flashing the camera was a good idea
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:47 AM   #17
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if you run into any problems send me a pm ill get it on my phone.

metal cloak sent me a tshirt for that video.
apparently flashing the camera was a good idea
Thanks man will do just the waiting game for the delivery they said 4 to 5 weeks
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:54 AM   #18
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Another, that i just remembered. Re-route your ABS lines. Up front they are in a bracket. You can't re-use that. So make sure you route them with your brake line and zip tie them together. As you can see in the photo I accidentally routed them behind the shock, and I had to undue lower shock bolt to re-route. I tried disconnecting them, but those clips are tough.

Actually broke one of my back ones, but I put it back together and connected it. No issues so far. Lol.

Have you seen the part 1 and 2 videos on JK Adventure for this install? Also very helpful.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:05 AM   #19
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Another, that i just remembered. Re-route your ABS lines. Up front they are in a bracket. You can't re-use that. So make sure you route them with your brake line and zip tie them together. As you can see in the photo I accidentally routed them behind the shock, and I had to undue lower shock bolt to re-route. I tried disconnecting them, but those clips are tough.

Actually broke one of my back ones, but I put it back together and connected it. No issues so far. Lol.

Have you seen the part 1 and 2 videos on JK Adventure for this install? Also very helpful.
Sounds like something I would do, I have only see the one you posted in this thread can you post the other ones.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:11 AM   #20
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- Part 1

- Part 2

I hope this worked. First time adding links.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:43 AM   #21
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- Part 1

- Part 2

I hope this worked. First time adding links.
They did work thanks
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:28 AM   #22
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This is definitely true. The MC springs are loooooong. I have the 2.5" coils (which I suspect are 2-dr coils installed on my 4-dr ,p) and I resorted to using my spring compressor - which I hate, cause it messes with the finish (I touched up afterwards - don't need to encourage rust) and some brute force.

The instructions are pretty good and the pictures are decent. If you know your way around the suspension, it's not really any special technical challenge - just a few things to consider before you start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 20Rubicon12 View Post
Maybe a dumb post. But replacing the
brake lines came later in the instructions. I would have saved myself a lot of time with spring compression if I would have just done brake lines first to give more room for suspension drop.

I was very new to wrenching. Took me more time, but got it done. Even had a 4x4 shop that did my alignment offer me a job. Haha.
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:22 PM   #23
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I can't wait to buy and install this lift on our Jeep. All I need is the money, that is all.

Good luck with your install, I have only heard good things about this lift. I can't wait to proof the heaters wrong.
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:30 PM   #24
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Money is the thing - at least you can piecemeal it. MC has (diff forum maybe?) a step by step on how to build up their kit in pieces. I might never get to the sweet shocks, but a guy can dream. ,p
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:49 AM   #25
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It was definitely hard to drop that kind of cash on the whole package (3.5" GC with 6-Paks).

I researched for a few months. Read a lot on the forums. Called them multiple times.

I thought to myself, I want to do this lift 1 time, and not build or replace when I wanted more. So I jumped in, and snagged during free shipping. Also if you are military, they offer a discount. So that was great! Couldn't be happier!
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:40 PM   #26
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Glad to here you are all happy with it. I too want to do it all at once. Hate to do it over time. So a few more months of saving and the order will be placed.
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:25 PM   #27
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Hoping to order the entry 2.5" MC lift kit which includes front upper CA's. I'm considering adding another set of CA's and wondering if the rear upper arms would be the best choice.

Thanks
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:08 AM   #28
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Hoping to order the entry 2.5" MC lift kit which includes front upper CA's. I'm considering adding another set of CA's and wondering if the rear upper arms would be the best choice.

Thanks
Anyone?
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:56 PM   #29
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The rule of thumb is that you need front lower control arms to fix your caster and rear upper control arms to fix your pinion angle.
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:38 AM   #30
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Anyone?
The post above is correct It's all covered in "newby's guide to lifting your jk" in the sticky thread linked in my sig line.



Do I need control arms?

Do I need all 8? No ... On a budget- Front lowers are commonly used for caster ( longer then stock) but uppers can be used as well. Next I would add rear uppers for pinion angle. On a 2 door pinion angle is important.
Another option is fixed CA's. For a quick fix ... Go for it, but I don't recommend if you have any desire to upgrade in the future.

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