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Old 04-14-2014, 12:01 PM   #1
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More Power ??

I have a 2013 JKU and from time to time I haul a 5x8 enclosed v-nose trailer with my Harley inside & was wondering if theres anything within reason that I can do to help power wise? I've seen some post on superchips & such but really don't know much about them. Would they help with hauling the trailer? What about gas mileage while hauling? Any help & recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:06 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by btharris24 View Post
I have a 2013 JKU and from time to time I haul a 5x8 enclosed v-nose trailer with my Harley inside & was wondering if theres anything within reason that I can do to help power wise? I've seen some post on superchips & such but really don't know much about them. Would they help with hauling the trailer? What about gas mileage while hauling? Any help & recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Brian
There's a bolt-on supercharger kit that would help, but at $5k not sure if that falls into your definition of "within reason". I would think most things like superchips, etc would provide marginal improvement at best.

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Old 04-14-2014, 12:12 PM   #3
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Well, Wrangler's are not the best tow vehicles to begin with, and there isn't much that can be done....but we need to know more about your set up.

You have a Sahara....3.21's or 3.73's?
It looks like you have aftermarket wheels...what size? If larger than stock, did you recalibrate?
Do you have a lift or boost of any kind?
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:29 PM   #4
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Well, Wrangler's are not the best tow vehicles to begin with, and there isn't much that can be done....but we need to know more about your set up.

You have a Sahara....3.21's or 3.73's?
It looks like you have aftermarket wheels...what size? If larger than stock, did you recalibrate?
Do you have a lift or boost of any kind?
The tires are 285/70/17 with a 2" lift & 3:21 gears, no boost or recalibration.

Thanks,
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:34 PM   #5
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At the least you should regear. 3.21 is too tall on an Unlimited in general in my opinion, once you start thinking about towing it only gets worse. Chyrsler only rates a 3.21 equipped JKU to tow 2000lbs but rates the 3.73 equipped Jeeps to pull 3500lbs.
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:50 PM   #6
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The tires are 285/70/17 with a 2" lift & 3:21 gears, no boost or recalibration.

Thanks,
I think the 33"'s on the 3.21's are the biggest issue, espeically without a recalc.

Unless you are ready to drop $1500 on a re-gear....I think you are limited in your options. Maybe a Superchip and a Pro-Calc to recalc you speedo and help with your shift points....but that is about it without spending big bucks.
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:55 PM   #7
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Regear is worth every penny if financially feasible.
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:30 PM   #8
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I agree, that for more power towing, you need to re-gear!

I also have a 2013, but a 2 door, (so mine is about 400 lbs. less weight). Mine has the 4.10 ratio, and I have towed a tandem axle trailer with a UTV, and a ATV on it. I pulled it up into our mountains with plenty of power.
So yes, re-gearing is the answer!
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:43 PM   #9
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I'm assuming you have an auto tranny.

For right now, get a ProCalc to adjust your speedo (and shift points), and when cruising on the highway, tap down a gear.

Off the top of my head, on 33"'s with a 3.21 axle, you are probably only spinning 1850 RPM at 70mph in 5th gear. Tap down to 4th, that will help.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:06 PM   #10
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Tire Size, RPM, Speed, and Differential Ratio Calculator

You will be able to see by using this calculator, how changing your gear ration, will influences your engine RPM, at different speeds, with you 33s...

Example of what this will show you:

33s, 60 mph, 3.21 ratio, 1961 RPM
33s, 60 mph, 4.10 ratio, 2505 RPM
33s, 60 mph, 4.56 ratio, 2786 RPM

As you can see, ratio, has a dramatic impact on engine RPM!
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dogger View Post
Tire Size, RPM, Speed, and Differential Ratio Calculator

You will be able to see by using this calculator, how changing your gear ration, will influences your engine RPM, at different speeds, with you 33s...

Example of what this will show you:

33s, 60 mph, 3.21 ratio, 1961 RPM
33s, 60 mph, 4.10 ratio, 2505 RPM
33s, 60 mph, 4.56 ratio, 2786 RPM

As you can see, ratio, has a dramatic impact on engine RPM!
Hmm....I think something is wrong with that particualr calculator. Those RPM's are way too high. It is telling me that I spin 2733 rpms's at 70MPH on stock 32.1 inch tires and a 3.73 axle ratio.

Derf's is telling me it is 2268 RPM's, which is about what I actually turn.


Oh...and 33"s on 3.21's comes up at 1899 RPM's at 70mph.



Here is derf's.... Gear Ratio Calculator
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dogger View Post
Tire Size, RPM, Speed, and Differential Ratio Calculator

You will be able to see by using this calculator, how changing your gear ration, will influences your engine RPM, at different speeds, with you 33s...

Example of what this will show you:

33s, 60 mph, 3.21 ratio, 1961 RPM
33s, 60 mph, 4.10 ratio, 2505 RPM
33s, 60 mph, 4.56 ratio, 2786 RPM

As you can see, ratio, has a dramatic impact on engine RPM!
Quote:
Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
Hmm....I think something is wrong with that particualr calculator. Those RPM's are way too high. It is telling me that I spin 2733 rpms's at 70MPH on stock 32.1 inch tires and a 3.73 axle ratio.

Derf's is telling me it is 2268 RPM's, which is about what I actually turn.


Oh...and 33"s on 3.21's comes up at 1899 RPM's at 70mph.



Here is derf's.... Gear Ratio Calculator
Yep, agree. The Calculator that I am using, is only going to show you a apples to apples comparison, at a given transmission ratio output, (same verses same output revolution)!
It merrily indicates how Differential ratio impacts engine RPM, with a constant given input.
The part of the equation that it is missing, is different transmission output speeds. And to do that accurately, it would have to have all of the different output speeds, inputting the Differential........

It was merrily meant to show a RPM comparison, at a constant given input, of which it does.
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:39 PM   #13
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It's time to up-gear..

Expecting horsepower to compensate for torque where gearing solutions are readily available is foolish, and usually much more expensive...
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:16 AM   #14
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It's time to up-gear..

Expecting horsepower to compensate for torque where gearing solutions are readily available is foolish, and usually much more expensive...
This, a supercharger is an exaggerated solution and a fuel tune will do nothing... Probably a ratio of 4.56 will suit better as they are usually cheaper than 4.10.
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:27 AM   #15
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As others have said you need to re-gear. It's the only thing that'll give you the results you're looking for. Even throwing 5k at a centrifical supercharger would be a disappointment IMO as they need rpm to build boost. With your gearing it wouldn't be a good choice. For reference my stock auto Rubi with 4:10s and 32" tires turns about 2650 rpm give or take at 70 mph. For me it seems to be an ideal setup. I really don't want any more gear because the fuel burn would take too big a hit. As is it's a 17 mpg jeep at 70 on the highway. I occasionally pull a 5x10 utility trailer with a Road Glide Ultra and it does just fine. Can't say it ever feels underpowered. Your Jeep isn't undeowered it's just under geared.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:38 PM   #16
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As others have said you need to re-gear. It's the only thing that'll give you the results you're looking for. Even throwing 5k at a centrifical supercharger would be a disappointment IMO as they need rpm to build boost. With your gearing it wouldn't be a good choice. For reference my stock auto Rubi with 4:10s and 32" tires turns about 2650 rpm give or take at 70 mph. For me it seems to be an ideal setup. I really don't want any more gear because the fuel burn would take too big a hit. As is it's a 17 mpg jeep at 70 on the highway. I occasionally pull a 5x10 utility trailer with a Road Glide Ultra and it does just fine. Can't say it ever feels underpowered. Your Jeep isn't undeowered it's just under geared.
I curently have 3:21 gears, what would be the optimal setup to go with? Will changing the gears void my warranty?

Thanks,
Brian
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:55 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by btharris24 View Post
I curently have 3:21 gears, what would be the optimal setup to go with? Will changing the gears void my warranty?

Thanks,
Brian
Since you have a JKU, (which is heavier), your running 285s, (33s), plus you tow at times, I would go with either a 4.56, or 4.88........
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:01 PM   #18
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I curently have 3:21 gears, what would be the optimal setup to go with? Will changing the gears void my warranty?

Thanks,
Brian
I'd say something in the 4.10 range. BUT...the way gears work, it would probably be more cost effective to go with 4.56's, however, I don't know if that is too much gear for you when you are not towing. You will be turning 2698 rpms at 70mph on 33"s with 4.56's. That is fine for some, but it might seem fast for you if you are used to 3.21's.
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:01 PM   #19
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Since you have a JKU, (which is heavier), your running 285s, (33s), plus you tow at times, I would go with either a 4.56, or 4.88........
Thanks, any idea about the warranty?
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:12 PM   #20
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Thanks, any idea about the warranty?
The only thing impacted will be whatever can be traced to a re-gear. Some dealers are fine with it, some dealers are jerks.
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:38 PM   #21
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Yeah, the warranty isn't an "all or nothing" item to be thrown out. If your radio stops working or your bumper falls off, your gears aren't going to affect that warranty claim. If you have a drivetrain issue, an a-hole dealer will do whatever mental gymnastics he can to blame your gears.
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:46 PM   #22
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Thanks, any idea about the warranty?
Any parts and labor, that it takes to re-gear, will no longer be covered by your original factory warranty, (because somebody else installed them, besides the factory)!
If this MOD causes, or contributes to another failure, then that also will not be covered. As the previous Post has stated, a lot of this has to do with your Dealer Service Departments flexibility, in trying to help you.

You will receive warranty on the install MOD, from whoever installs them. Just make sure that you get a copy of that applicable warranty in writing, plus make sure that you understand what it says!

I recommend, that you confirm all of this with your Dealer Service Manager, before any MODS, so that you don't get any surprises.......
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:37 PM   #23
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Any parts and labor, that it takes to re-gear, will no longer be covered by your original factory warranty, (because somebody else installed them, besides the factory)!
If this MOD causes, or contributes to another failure, then that also will not be covered. As the previous Post has stated, a lot of this has to do with your Dealer Service Departments flexibility, in trying to help you.

You will receive warranty on the install MOD, from whoever installs them. Just make sure that you get a copy of that applicable warranty in writing, plus make sure that you understand what it says!

I recommend, that you confirm all of this with your Dealer Service Manager, before any MODS, so that you don't get any surprises.......
Very sound info, this quoted post is as accurate as it gets..
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:19 PM   #24
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^^^Thank you for your comment!
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Old 04-16-2014, 12:02 PM   #25
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I'd say something in the 4.10 range. BUT...the way gears work, it would probably be more cost effective to go with 4.56's, however, I don't know if that is too much gear for you when you are not towing. You will be turning 2698 rpms at 70mph on 33"s with 4.56's. That is fine for some, but it might seem fast for you if you are used to 3.21's.
Thanks for the help guys. One last question, why would the 4:10 gears cost more than the 4:56's?
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Old 04-16-2014, 12:18 PM   #26
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Costs vary by manufacturer and shop. There is in steadfast rule. Seen 4.56s the same price, less and more expensive.

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