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Old 02-08-2014, 04:37 PM   #1
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Need some help very quickly. Driveshafts.

So yesterday i was driving out of a parking spot in 4wd i nthe snow and CV joint blew apparently. Im being told I need a double cardan drivesahft, my jeep is a 2013 2-door with an AEV 3.5" lift. I thought you didn't need any driveshaft mods with the AEV 3.5 but clearly it didn't hold up. Ive never had a lot of experience with these types of issues so I need guidance in what to get. Front driveshaft, rear, both? And also if i need anything to adjust the rear pinion angle….just let me know what I need i need to get it before a trip this coming week.

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Old 02-08-2014, 04:54 PM   #2
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2 door or 4? You are close to the limit with a 4, definitely over fatal angle with a 2. What happened was that at some point you tore the CV boot allowing the grease to escape. Once this happened, your drive shaft was on the clock and ticking down to the destruction that just occurred.

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Old 02-08-2014, 04:57 PM   #3
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Its a 2-door….im surprised with how technical AEV is that they haven't mentioned that anywhere. I did know that could be a problem but was told specifically you wouldn't need any driveshaft changes with that lift.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:00 PM   #4
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Yeah, you do need a double cardan shaft. I have a 2012 2-door JKR and even with AEVs shafts, I had a custom one made with greasable joints. Fortunately, I can reuse it on a 4-door....or just stock up on takeoffs.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:05 PM   #5
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I've got 18k miles on the same set up & am just waiting for the drive shaft to go. I'm surprised I've gotten as far as I have with the angles the drive line is at.

How many miles do you have on the lift? From all the research I did it was anywhere from 10 miles to never going on the ds so I planned on 10 miles & am still going. I assume my front will go first, it's making noise & I did install rear upper control arms to lengthen the life of the ds in the back.

What went - the front or the back? I'm gonna go with Tom Woods when the time comes.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:08 PM   #6
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Its a 2-door….im surprised with how technical AEV is that they haven't mentioned that anywhere. I did know that could be a problem but was told specifically you wouldn't need any driveshaft changes with that lift.
It's even worse with an automatic transmission.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:09 PM   #7
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It's even worse with an automatic transmission.
Yup. & whoever told you that didn't know what they were talking about. Its inevitable at that angle. It might take a while - but they will go.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:10 PM   #8
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:02 PM   #9
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get a tom woods or an adams front driveshaft and be done with it. steer clear of the procomp crap that 4wp will try to sell you. mild wheeling? get a 1310.

the problem isnt so much your lift height as much as the fact that the driveshaft joint type that chrysler insisted on using at the transfer case flanges and rear pinion is absolute garbage in a vehicle with suspension that has a lot of travel. basically it would be fine in a ford mustang, not so much in a Jeep.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:04 PM   #10
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It's advertised on aevs website that you didn't need it, and they confirmed it for me. It's the rear that went. I'm so confused now. So what do I need? I'm fine with spending the money just need to know the best way to fix it.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:08 PM   #11
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It's advertised on aevs website that you didn't need it, and they confirmed it for me. It's the rear that went. I'm so confused now. So what do I need? I'm fine with spending the money just need to know the best way to fix it.
front first, eventually rear. the rear always has a straighter driveline angle so it will last longer.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:18 PM   #12
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It's advertised on aevs website that you didn't need it, and they confirmed it for me. It's the rear that went. I'm so confused now. So what do I need? I'm fine with spending the money just need to know the best way to fix it.
Yea, technically it's not needed to install their lift but they don't tell you you're running on borrowed time.

IMO replace the rear with a TW & wait for the front to go - then replace that. I hear good stuff with Adams too.
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Old 02-08-2014, 07:20 PM   #13
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The front shaft usually fails before the rear. Since your rear already failed, you should plan on getting both. Coast makes quality shafts.
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:31 PM   #14
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Front first w/ 2 or 4 door. Disconnecting and too much caster don't help. The shorter rear on a 2 door. Upper control arms will help but the angle at the TC is still there

As mentioned. There's no set milage and many variables. It you're lifted. Make it a habit of inspecting the cv's for tears/grease splatter.

Manufacturers want to sell their lifts. Saying a DS is not needed is misleading.
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Old 02-09-2014, 12:05 PM   #15
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I'd go with JE Reel. As mentioned, with 3.5" on a 2 door, you should expect to replace front and rear.
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:51 PM   #16
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Ok, so I've got a bigger issue here I think. I'm pretty sure my service department made an assumption and told me the wrong thing. I took it upon myself to pull it in the garage and check it out, and it doesn't seem to me that any of the cv joints are bad. Instead, I found out then when you spin the front driveshaft, the tires lock up after a few revolutions. And if I spin one of the front tires by hand, it eventually catches the other tire and they spin in the opposite direction. And that is with the driveshaft disconnected, so clearly the issue is in the diff right?
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:24 PM   #17
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That sounds like an open diff and normal operation.

Bob K.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:30 PM   #18
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The AEV 3.5" is a great lift kit and AEV has outstanding Engineering but no one other than Jeep can overcome the limitations of the current JK suspension geometry.

Any lift near or over 3" is going to cause driveline problems in the sooner or later depending on where and how you drive it. My AEV 3.5 initially netted 4.50 in front and almost 3.75" in the back.

I eventually went with Tom Woods driveshaft when I upgraded to the 4.5 coils because I've used them in the past but there are several other quality brands. In the past the best were from driveline specialty companies but I hear good things about some of shafts the off road gear manufacturers. You can even have them made at a machine shop.
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:08 PM   #19
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that sounds like an open diff and normal operation. Bob k.
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:05 AM   #20
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That sounds like an open diff and normal operation.

Bob K.
Really? i understand how the diff works and that the tires should spin the opposite way but its supposed to lock up like that? i mean it really jams up and you have to force it free.
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:14 AM   #21
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You can drop the cover and watch what is going on. The gear set is designed to provide torque to the least resistance. When that is the same, they try to turn together and are biased to the pinion. Have someone hold one tire turn the other and see if it locks up.

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Old 02-10-2014, 09:34 AM   #22
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Was this your first time in 4wd,... backing up?
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:40 AM   #23
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Ok, so I've got a bigger issue here I think. I'm pretty sure my service department made an assumption and told me the wrong thing. I took it upon myself to pull it in the garage and check it out, and it doesn't seem to me that any of the cv joints are bad. Instead, I found out then when you spin the front driveshaft, the tires lock up after a few revolutions. And if I spin one of the front tires by hand, it eventually catches the other tire and they spin in the opposite direction. And that is with the driveshaft disconnected, so clearly the issue is in the diff right?
I'm assuming since you had a shop look at it and now you've been able to "pull it in the garage," that'a it's driveable. If it's driveable, you didn't "blow" the DS.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:51 AM   #24
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Well, i really appreciate the wrong diagnosis by my shop... heres what i took upon my self to find because i didnt believe them about the driveshaft, and frankly i didnt believe the comments about normal diff operation on here either.
Luckily its under warranty
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:07 AM   #25
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Wow. Has there been any work done to the diff previously?
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:41 AM   #26
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No not at all, only has 7,000 miles and i've owned it since new. Must have been a factory defect, a chip in one of teeth or something I would think.
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:27 PM   #27
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Damn, that is crazy! I have never seen a rear differential get destroyed like that.
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:33 PM   #28
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Well, i really appreciate the wrong diagnosis by my shop... heres what i took upon my self to find because i didnt believe them about the driveshaft, and frankly i didnt believe the comments about normal diff operation on here either.
Luckily its under warranty
Ouch! Yeah, that's some pretty crazy damage! Great that it's still under warranty.
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:32 PM   #29
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Ouch! Yeah, that's some pretty crazy damage! Great that it's still under warranty.
Remember the kid from the Army at Pontiac Sleuth Rick? That Bill and I followed out in front wheel drive? This is what happened to his. Only his had been re-geared so not a total surprise.
Thankfully they're warranting it OP. Doesn't have anything to do with your lift but it of course broaches that fuzzy gray "modified" line....It goes without saying but at least now you know you still need to watch your front DS.
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:16 PM   #30
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Remember the kid from the Army at Pontiac Sleuth Rick? That Bill and I followed out in front wheel drive? This is what happened to his. Only his had been re-geared so not a total surprise.
Thankfully they're warranting it OP. Doesn't have anything to do with your lift but it of course broaches that fuzzy gray "modified" line....It goes without saying but at least now you know you still need to watch your front DS.
Yeah, I remember that day. Poor guy, think it was his first run.

That would be a damn shame if it happened to me. I'd have to get new gears early.

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