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Old 04-11-2014, 08:50 PM   #1
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New 6inch sub fto replace alpine?

I do not like the alpin sub let alone all the speakers. but i want to replace the sub any ideas? i would like to just replace it in the same enclosement its already in.

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Old 04-11-2014, 08:55 PM   #2
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anyone know anything about JL Audio sub? We bought a used 2010 and it was already installed in it. It sounds good to us. I know we feel it in our chest. I was not really looking for something with a sub but, it was in it already so I think we did pretty good.

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Old 04-11-2014, 08:56 PM   #3
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I do not like the alpin sub let alone all the speakers. but i want to replace the sub any ideas? i would like to just replace it in the same enclosement its already in.
actually its a 6 1/2 inch
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:00 PM   #4
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anyone know anything about JL Audio sub? We bought a used 2010 and it was already installed in it. It sounds good to us. I know we feel it in our chest. I was not really looking for something with a sub but, it was in it already so I think we did pretty good.
If it sounds good to you, I would go with it. There is really no sense in changing something that works well and sounds good. JL Audio makes good quality products.
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:03 PM   #5
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JL Audio

Thanks.. I did not mean to hijack this thread. sorry meant to post new. I will do so and delete this.
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:24 PM   #6
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I do not like the alpin sub let alone all the speakers. but i want to replace the sub any ideas? i would like to just replace it in the same enclosement its already in.

Owners with the stock 6.5" subwoofer seem to get the best results from the Kicker replacements. The subwoofer below is the recent replacement, but, I'm not sure about the 1/4" size increase. Wiring it to 1ohm impedance would probably be best.

Kicker 40CWRT672 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com

You might want to read this thread too.

Stock Subwoofer replacement Found!! - JeepForum.com


Edit: ^This information is for a TJ, not a JK.
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:17 PM   #7
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The drivers are 6.5 inches. The stock sub is 8 inches.
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:18 AM   #8
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The drivers are 6.5 inches. The stock sub is 8 inches.
Oh seriously?
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:45 PM   #9
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Oh seriously?
Yep, the dash and sound bar speakers are 6.5", the rear subwoofer is 8".
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Old 04-13-2014, 09:46 AM   #10
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What do you guys think about replacing it with this?
http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/det...=1218978281650
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Old 04-13-2014, 10:19 AM   #11
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You will need a spacer ring to install the sub...but that Kicker is one of 4 or 5 that are often used to replace the factory sub.

I'm leaning towards this Alpine Type R, but have not gotten around to getting one. I did get a spacer ring from ebay already however....
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Old 04-13-2014, 12:06 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
You will need a spacer ring to install the sub...but that Kicker is one of 4 or 5 that are often used to replace the factory sub. I'm leaning towards this Alpine Type R, but have not gotten around to getting one. I did get a spacer ring from ebay already however....
what will the spacer ring do?
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Old 04-13-2014, 12:30 PM   #13
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Thinking of doing the same, would this kicker with dual voice coils be a better match for the stock amp?

Kicker 40CWD82 CompD Series 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
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Old 04-13-2014, 12:46 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
You will need a spacer ring to install the sub...but that Kicker is one of 4 or 5 that are often used to replace the factory sub.

I'm leaning towards this Alpine Type R, but have not gotten around to getting one. I did get a spacer ring from ebay already however....
Are you talking about this one?

Alpine SWR-8D2 Type-R 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com

What's needed to install this as a replacement for the factory Alpine system?

.
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Old 04-13-2014, 02:13 PM   #15
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what will the spacer ring do?
Spacer ring does two things...

It gives you something to screw the subwoofer into instead of the plastic factory enclosure. (Let's say one sub has six holes, while the other has 8 holes).

It also gives you a touch more depth so that magnet of the sub isn't up against anything inside the enclosure.
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Old 04-13-2014, 02:15 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 4x4n View Post
Thinking of doing the same, would this kicker with dual voice coils be a better match for the stock amp?

Kicker 40CWD82 CompD Series 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com

If you are not going to use a different amp, don't bother swapping subs. The stock amp puts out 46 watts per channel...peak...at 2 ohms...too little power to a sub is far worse than too much power.
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Old 04-13-2014, 02:16 PM   #17
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Are you talking about this one?

Alpine SWR-8D2 Type-R 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com

What's needed to install this as a replacement for the factory Alpine system?

.
Yup, that is the one I've been leaning towards....but never got around to buying.

That sub, along with this amp Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR300X1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 300 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm at Crutchfield.com have been in my Crutchfield and Amazon carts for about a year.
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Old 04-13-2014, 02:50 PM   #18
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I build custom stereos for the river and do a lot of fiberglass work. I am going to replace my factory set up with a rockford fosgate D class amp and a 10" sub in a custom fiberglass enclosure using the factory mount only fiberglassing over it with a 10" ring. I have used a lot of different subs from fosgate alpine JBL, JL, Polk. I really like the JL's but they are pricey. If your in the market to shop I buy a lot of my equipment from sonicelectonix Car Audio Stereo - Car Subwoofers - Car Amplifiers and Speakers.

this is the fosgate amp i am going with its a D class less heat and more efficient power usage.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-R500X1D.html

matched to this fosgate sub

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-R2D4-10.html

total price on electronics is $220
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Old 04-13-2014, 03:18 PM   #19
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I build custom stereos for the river and do a lot of fiberglass work. I am going to replace my factory set up with a rockford fosgate D class amp and a 10" sub in a custom fiberglass enclosure using the factory mount only fiberglassing over it with a 10" ring. I have used a lot of different subs from fosgate alpine JBL, JL, Polk. I really like the JL's but they are pricey. If your in the market to shop I buy a lot of my equipment from sonicelectonix Car Audio Stereo - Car Subwoofers - Car Amplifiers and Speakers.

this is the fosgate amp i am going with its a D class less heat and more efficient power usage.

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D 500W Mono Class D Prime Amplifier

matched to this fosgate sub

Rockford Fosgate PRIME R2D4-10 10" Dual 4 ohm Subwoofer

total price on electronics is $220
There is a thread on another forum where someone did exactly that. They did a homemade fiberglass mixture and opened up the factory 8' opening to a 10" opening. It was awesome.
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:34 PM   #20
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Spacer ring does two things... It gives you something to screw the subwoofer into instead of the plastic factory enclosure. (Let's say one sub has six holes, while the other has 8 holes). It also gives you a touch more depth so that magnet of the sub isn't up against anything inside the enclosure.
could you attach a link to a spacer ring?
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:10 PM   #21
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Yup, that is the one I've been leaning towards....but never got around to buying.

That sub, along with this amp Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR300X1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 300 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm at Crutchfield.com have been in my Crutchfield and Amazon carts for about a year.
Where would you mount it and pick up power from?

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Old 04-13-2014, 11:27 PM   #22
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Where would you mount it and pick up power from?

.
Any time you run an amp its good to run its own power wire directly from the battery. you will need the remote wire to attach to the radio so when you turn the radio on the amp will come on. The D class are small and can be mounted in lots of hidden places also.
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:33 PM   #23
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Any time you run an amp its good to run its own power wire directly from the battery. you will need the remote wire to attach to the radio so when you turn the radio on the amp will come on. The D class are small and can be mounted in lots of hidden places also.
There's a 12 volt power source in the rear.. can that be tapped without running another wire?

I'm not sure if the 12 volt source is switched or unswitched with the ignition.

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Old 04-14-2014, 12:27 AM   #24
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This source...

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Old 04-14-2014, 12:43 AM   #25
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Oh seriously?
This is why I say its best to give the Year and Model of your Jeep when asking questions. It takes the guessing out of the equation and gives more accurate information. I assumed that you had a 6 inch console sub, when you said 6" sub. But, if it is a JK, then likely it is the rear sub that is 8".
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:31 AM   #26
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Where would you mount it and pick up power from?

.
I had not picked a spot yet. There are 4 possible locations.

1. I've seen pics here where someone used some 1' spacers, and stacked the amp on top of the factory amp in the factory location.

2. Where the metal plate is underneath the steering wheel. That is actually where my Lockpick is at.

3. Someplace down low in the passenger side B pillar.

4. Right next to the sub itself behind the plastic panel (if there is room).

One reaoson why I have not purchased as of yet is because I wanted to double check the power consumption. My plan was to power it with one of the outputs from Lockpick.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:47 AM   #27
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This is why I say its best to give the Year and Model of your Jeep when asking questions. It takes the guessing out of the equation and gives more accurate information. I assumed that you had a 6 inch console sub, when you said 6" sub. But, if it is a JK, then likely it is the rear sub that is 8".
its a 2013 sport s with alpine sysyem
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:02 PM   #28
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My amp is in the rear cubby. Fits perfectly, doesn't get too hot and you'd never know it was there. Ran the power line directly to the battery with it's own inline fuse. Super easy really as the carpet isn't glued down or anything so I just snaked it right underneath. Went up the right hand side and through an existing hole in the firewall.

Made my own adapter ring out of MDF but nothing wrong with buying one I just had the material already and didn't feel like waiting. This amp reads signal directly from the speaker wire so I just tapped into the factory wires already going to the stock sub. Powers on and off automatically. Sounds amazing and you'd never even know just by looking.





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Old 04-14-2014, 04:11 PM   #29
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My amp is in the rear cubby. Fits perfectly, doesn't get too hot and you'd never know it was there. Ran the power line directly to the battery with it's own inline fuse. Super easy really as the carpet isn't glued down or anything so I just snaked it right underneath. Went up the right hand side and through an existing hole in the firewall.

Made my own adapter ring out of MDF but nothing wrong with buying one I just had the material already and didn't feel like waiting. This amp reads signal directly from the speaker wire so I just tapped into the factory wires already going to the stock sub. Powers on and off automatically. Sounds amazing and you'd never even know just by looking.

Oh... thanks, that's really helpful.
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:37 PM   #30
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There's a 12 volt power source in the rear.. can that be tapped without running another wire?

I'm not sure if the 12 volt source is switched or unswitched with the ignition.

.
That outlet is unswitched....so you will have to make sure the auto turn-on feature of the amp is working properly.

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