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Old 11-21-2013, 02:56 PM   #1
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New Drag Link

Well that didnt take long lol. After just a few times offroad with my 37s the tie rod ends on my drag link are garbage. Been running without a stabilizer for the past few days and got a little bumpsteer so crawled underneath and felt a clunk and saw movement from the tie rod ends of my draglink as my girlfriend turned the steering wheel fast in both directions. Im leaning towards the synergy drag link because it has 1 ton tie rod ends. My two questions are can I run this drag link in the stock location without having fitment issues (i dont need to do a flip kit only running a small lift) and are there any other solid drag links I should consider? Thanks

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Old 11-21-2013, 03:06 PM   #2
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Sure can

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Old 11-21-2013, 04:16 PM   #3
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So why do larger tires kill drag link ends?
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:36 PM   #4
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any size tires can put pressure on all steering compenents however the larger the tire the more strain your putting on those stock tie rod ends, balljoints, trackbar bushings, control arm bushings, etc....All these stock parts arent going to last forever it just wears quicker depending on driving habits and tire size/weight. those crappy stock tie rod ends are working pretty hard to turn all that rubber
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:37 PM   #5
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Sure can
Are you running your in the factory location? Any issues with it hitting the steering stabilizer?
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:46 PM   #6
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Are you running your in the factory location? Any issues with it hitting the steering stabilizer?
No I'm not.

I went through two stock DL's. One with stock tires after 40k and another in 10k
The TRE to knuckle is the joint that goes first.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:58 PM   #7
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No I'm not.

I went through two stock DL's. One with stock tires after 40k and another in 10k
The TRE to knuckle is the joint that goes first.
thanks yeah my pitman arm side is in worse shape than the knuckle side but its still toasted. This will be my third drag link the first was on my 2010 with 35k and now my 2012 with 25k. the stock drag link sucks the big one from the crappy adjuster sleeve to the crappy ends thumbs down chrysler
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:23 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by monte417 View Post
thanks yeah my pitman arm side is in worse shape than the knuckle side but its still toasted. This will be my third drag link the first was on my 2010 with 35k and now my 2012 with 25k. the stock drag link sucks the big one from the crappy adjuster sleeve to the crappy ends thumbs down chrysler
Could not agree more. SYNERGY is a awesome DL.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:27 PM   #9
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I was planning on doing the same type of upgrade soon... Good to know
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:53 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
No I'm not.

I went through two stock DL's. One with stock tires after 40k and another in 10k
The TRE to knuckle is the joint that goes first.
mine lasted about the same. The funny part is I replaced it with my buddies stock take off DL, he was on 37's too and had 20k on his trailer queen. All I can think is that highway driving must be a lot worse on the ends.
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:58 PM   #11
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mine lasted about the same. The funny part is I replaced it with my buddies stock take off DL, he was on 37's too and had 20k on his trailer queen. All I can think is that highway driving must be a lot worse on the ends.
My 3rd stock was used but knew I was upgrading. Think I paid like $50.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:55 PM   #12
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My 3rd stock was used but knew I was upgrading. Think I paid like $50.
I just said "hey dude gimme that drag link"

this 60 swap is killing me, I dont want to spend any money on my 30 but I have a feeling I will be...
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:08 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by monte417 View Post
any size tires can put pressure on all steering compenents however the larger the tire the more strain your putting on those stock tie rod ends, balljoints, trackbar bushings, control arm bushings, etc....All these stock parts arent going to last forever it just wears quicker depending on driving habits and tire size/weight. those crappy stock tie rod ends are working pretty hard to turn all that rubber
I wouldn't say the stock tie rod ends are crappy, they are just not designed for extra mass and load introduced by 33"+ tires and heavy wheels. In addition, when you add a lift kit and you are changing the suspension as well as the steering geometry which changes the stresses on the joints. Fortunately, there are some excellent replacements out there for all the joints including the Synergy and Dynatrac ball joints.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:18 PM   #14
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No actually they get worn pretty fast on stock jeeps as well at least stockers that get wheeled. From my experience anyway maybe I have bad luck
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:07 AM   #15
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so is anyone running the synergy draglink in the stock location? Any vendors out there have any deals going on?
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:45 AM   #16
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You can run the synergy in the stock position or flipped.

Synergy Suspension Jeep JK High Steer Drag Link (PPM-8001)

We are doing free shipping and 10% off .

Use discount code - shark tank

we have them in stock in all of our warehouses so it will arrive very quickly.

David
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:49 AM   #17
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You can run the synergy in the stock position or flipped.

Synergy Suspension Jeep JK High Steer Drag Link (PPM-8001)

We are doing free shipping and 10% off .

Use discount code - shark tank

we have them in stock in all of our warehouses so it will arrive very quickly.

David
awesome i figured you guys would chime in
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:19 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Northridge4x4 View Post
You can run the synergy in the stock position or flipped.

Synergy Suspension Jeep JK High Steer Drag Link (PPM-8001)

We are doing free shipping and 10% off .

Use discount code - shark tank

we have them in stock in all of our warehouses so it will arrive very quickly.

David
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:33 PM   #19
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Just wanted to toss out an update. After installing the synergy drag link the knuckle end does not sit level it just droops as seen in the pic. I tried making adjustments to make it sit level but after one turn of the wheel it returns to the drooped position. I guess my question would be is this normal and did I miss something when I installed it? I am running only a 2.5 lift with no intention of flipping. Thanks
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:44 PM   #20
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You should be fine as long as the steering wheel is straight.
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:10 PM   #21
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The steering wheel is straight and it rides fine I'm just concerned I'm putting the joint at a constant awkward position that may result in premature failure or binding. This is not a cheap piece of equipment so I want to make sure it's installed correctly. In the past my stock draglinks that I've replaced did not do this. Had anyone installed this draglink in the stock location that has come across the same issue?
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:20 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by monte417 View Post
The steering wheel is straight and it rides fine I'm just concerned I'm putting the joint at a constant awkward position that may result in premature failure or binding. This is not a cheap piece of equipment so I want to make sure it's installed correctly. In the past my stock draglinks that I've replaced did not do this. Had anyone installed this draglink in the stock location that has come across the same issue?
That bushing is not going to get damaged, But im curious how others look.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:58 AM   #23
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bump anyone?
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:35 PM   #24
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Is the synergy drag link double sleeved at both ends? It looks to me (I can see two threads, one at the tube and another one for the joint end) that you simply need to play with the tube and joint to put the joint at the correct angle and at the same time threading the tube so you don't add or shorten length. i.e unbolt, adjust the joint position first, then correct the length, if changed, with tube.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:56 PM   #25
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Is the synergy drag link double sleeved at both ends? It looks to me (I can see two threads, one at the tube and another one for the joint end) that you simply need to play with the tube and joint to put the joint at the correct angle and at the same time threading the tube so you don't add or shorten length. i.e unbolt, adjust the joint position first, then correct the length, if changed, with tube.
I tried that but after i turn the wheel it just drops back down into that position. I called the rep at synergy and he told me thats normal gravity at play. Its a great heavy duty part and im happy with it I was just curious if anyone else has this installed where the joint sits level or is this just the way it looks
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:36 PM   #26
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This is stated in the notes:
"Requires a maximum 4-3/4" backspace wheel or wheel spacer with factory wheel setup"

I'll be running this DL in the stock location.

Does this mean that you can't run this DL with the stock wheels without spacers? I'm assuming since the physical size of the joints are larger that it interferes with the wheel at lock.

If wheel spacers are required, what size spacer can I run with 37's mounted on the stock wheel? I've got the Synergy DL and 1.5" Synergy wheel spacers in my shopping cart on NR4X4. I've got wicked death wobble and the knuckle-side DL joint is the culprit, but I'm only running stock tires for right now and I want to make sure I set myself up right for the 37's down the road. Don't care if the stock wheels would look stupid spaced out for a while, as long as I can run the DL.

Thanks for the help and sorry for hijacking. Thank you for posting this thread, it's exactly what I needed to see!
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:08 PM   #27
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This is stated in the notes:
"Requires a maximum 4-3/4" backspace wheel or wheel spacer with factory wheel setup"

I'll be running this DL in the stock location.

Does this mean that you can't run this DL with the stock wheels without spacers? I'm assuming since the physical size of the joints are larger that it interferes with the wheel at lock.

If wheel spacers are required, what size spacer can I run with 37's mounted on the stock wheel? I've got the Synergy DL and 1.5" Synergy wheel spacers in my shopping cart on NR4X4. I've got wicked death wobble and the knuckle-side DL joint is the culprit, but I'm only running stock tires for right now and I want to make sure I set myself up right for the 37's down the road. Don't care if the stock wheels would look stupid spaced out for a while, as long as I can run the DL.

Thanks for the help and sorry for hijacking. Thank you for posting this thread, it's exactly what I needed to see!
If I recall, stock wheels are 6.25" backspaced. 6.25 - 1.5 (from spacer) = 4.75, thus you will be good to go.
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:35 PM   #28
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If I recall, stock wheels are 6.25" backspaced. 6.25 - 1.5 (from spacer) = 4.75, thus you will be good to go.
you might rub the control arms. I did. had 4.75 bs and added a 1.25 spacer. (with 37s).

no more rub
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:03 PM   #29
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you might rub the control arms. I did. had 4.75 bs and added a 1.25 spacer. (with 37s).

no more rub
Oh, I thought he was talking about drag link clearance.

Anyway, /tempthreadhijack, were the 37s 12.5 wide? stock or aftermarket arms?
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:20 PM   #30
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you might rub the control arms. I did. had 4.75 bs and added a 1.25 spacer. (with 37s). no more rub
Same exact thing with me

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