SteerSmarts recently released the first drag link that does not require us to drill the factory steering knuckle. It may not seem like much but i can say from drilling 2 knuckles .. Its a pain in the a$$
The YETI heavy duty top mount drag link is 100% bolt on. All you need is to Choose your favorite track bar bracket like from Rancho, Synergy, EVO and 3" bump stop.
Added 10/29/15
The Yeti drag link mentioned above is for steering correction (aka High steer)
If your JK is lifted more than 3" and experiencing bump steer. The top mount is what you want.
Interesting. Is a "high steer kit" the same as a "drag-link flip kit"? A track-bar relocation bracket would be necessary with this kit, correct? I don't see it mentioned on the link.
Kjeeper10; Your right Ken, we have a patent pending design we call "reverse taper mount". It uses the current tapered hole that's in the knuckle. This keeps the knuckles hoop stresses around the hole at production levels instead of weakening them. Much easier to install because everything is bolt on.... No drilling or machining the knuckle. A much stronger joint. A true heavy duty process. The YETI Series linkage will be introduced at SEMA 2015 this Novemer. Compliant
Looks very interesting. Even after having drilled out 4 sets of knuckles, I still don't like the process.
The whole thing hinges on how well their "Reverse Taper Mount" (patent pending) joint works. The stresses will be working against that type of joint so checking the torque will be important.
Looks very interesting. Even after having drilled out 4 sets of knuckles, I still don't like the process. The whole thing hinges on how well their "Reverse Taper Mount" (patent pending) joint works. The stresses will be working against that type of joint so checking the torque will be important.
I just recently saw a post, somebody had drilled the knuckle and used the insert like most have.
The insert actually split in two pieces
Now .. To me, this just means the hole was either over drilled or the rod end loosened up. But still ... If it can happen it will happen. Scary if cruising 70 on the highway.
Will be picking this up when its available (depending on the price of course), as well as their Attenuator. Now just need to look up track-bar brackets, and hopefully I can re-use my OME track-bar.
I've got a stock DL and the attenuator and I know I'll be torn when the YETI comes out because I would love to keep the attenuator on there, but I know I need to beef up my steering before I break something.
turkTTR; I will plan to set up some kind of an exchange for members that have purchased an attenuator that now want the YETI linkage with an Attenuator. We also plan to have a linkage top mount that will accommodate the guys that have drilled out there knuckles with the 7/8 drill. However, I will recommend charging knuckles inorder to have a safe sound steering system before saying that this is the way to go.
We will have YETI linkages at SEMA this November, booth 35322... Hope to see and meet a few of you at the show.
Compliant
Here's a picture of our installed YETI Top Mount Drag Link with our patented pending reverse taper mount. This joint tested stronger than the original factory lower mount. Time to install this joint was less than a couple minutes. No drilling keeps the strength of the knuckle the same.
Here's a picture of our installed YETI Top Mount Drag Link with our patented pending reverse taper mount. This joint tested stronger than the original factory lower mount. Time to install this joint was less than a couple minutes. No drilling keeps the strength of the knuckle the same.
That broken linkage has many problems. Those joints have no seals and Jam Nuts are not a good choice. Jam nuts require way too much torque and can work loose under high loads. Why do you buy HD linkage? Because of the high loads you are planning to see.
We work hard when designing seals for joints. As you can see in this picture, the seal fits perfect and clears everything. And, this is a oversized ball joint (30mm dia.) on steel bearings, the strongest tie rod ever built for Wrangler.
Compliant
That broken linkage has many problems. Those joints have no seals and Jam Nuts are not a good choice. Jam nuts require way too much torque and can work loose under high loads. Why do you buy HD linkage? Because of the high loads you are planning to see. We work hard when designing seals for joints. As you can see in this picture, the seal fits perfect and clears everything. And, this is a oversized ball joint (30mm dia.) on steel bearings, the strongest tie rod ever built for Wrangler. Compliant
Those are Rock Krawler joints. Which are just a massive Heim joint. In all fairness the bar itself broke which was 1 5/8 7075. The driver admitted fault by driving fast and stupid.
What i hate about jam nuts is holding orientation where you want it. My Synergy bar is bent outward to clear the diff/etc. its impossible to face the bar perfectly forward.
We made the YETI linkage strong enough to miss the diff. and anything else under the front in order to have a straight tube. Adjustments are very easy to make on the YETI and clamps only need approx. 40 / 45 pound of torque to clamp everything in place. Same with the draglink, straight tube for easy adjustments and clamps.
We are manufacturing YETI linkages now and have inventory on hand. Our plan is to ship the same day we receive orders. We will be accepting orders at SEMA and thru our website starting November 2nd. We already have some linkages at build shops.
Compliant
Inventory on hand! And no order 'til Nov. 2nd? You guys are killing me. Are you taking pre-orders or do you think you'll have plenty come Nov. 2nd? Been looking at steering for awhile and ready to pull the trigger!
Good question. If going with the high steer DL, you will have to source a bracket and driver side swaybar tab if using Discos.
I asked Ron about making a bracket/kit. Iirc his answer was he plans to offer a kit in the future.
For now I just have linkages, both draglinks and tie rod ends. We will be selling them separate for those who just want one or the other. HD trackbars and brackets coming mid next year. We are developing some neat stuff for track bars.
We have 3 draglinks to pick from. One for the bottom mount, same as factory. Our top mount with the patent pending reverse taper mount. And, a third one for the guys that have already drilled their knuckles for a top mount.
I will have cost and pictures on our website soon that outlines the differences in these draglinks. The draglinks also have the 30mm ball joints on both ends with one end having the reverse pin socket for keeping the drag link from flopping up and down while driving on a washboard type road.
For now I just have linkages, both draglinks and tie rod ends. We will be selling them separate for those who just want one or the other. HD trackbars and brackets coming mid next year. We are developing some neat stuff for track bars. We have 3 draglinks to pick from. One for the bottom mount, same as factory. Our top mount with the patent pending reverse taper mount. And, a third one for the guys that have already drilled their knuckles for a top mount. I will have cost and pictures on our website soon that outlines the differences in these draglinks. The draglinks also have the 30mm ball joints on both ends with one end having the reverse pin socket for keeping the drag link from flopping up and down while driving on a washboard type road.
No concern about the knuckle itself? The further you raise the joint above the knuckle, the more pressure is put upon the knuckle, no ? It would be nice to see it in double sheer somehow.
Compliant - This seems like a really cool product and I have been holding out on upgrading the steering until this becomes available.
Just a few questions if you don't mind.
The top mount drag link states "Engineered for proper clearance to other chassis components".
Does the drag link have a bend to clear the frame? If not how is clearance handled?
Near the end of the page is a note regarding wheel clearance: Note: A minimum of 16” diameter wheels must be used with the JK high steer knuckle kit, "16" wheel w/ min 4.5 back spacing ".
Most lifts specify a very minimum of 4.75" back spacing when running 35" tires. As such there are quite a few wheels out there with that back spacing. Will a 17" diameter wheel with 4.75" back spacing be adequate to clear the knuckle?
Have you performed any destructive testing comparing strength of the YETI vs other custom HD steering linkages?
Compliant - This seems like a really cool product and I have been holding out on upgrading the steering until this becomes available. The
Just a few questions if you don't mind.q
I love you too much
The top mount drag link states "Engineered for proper clearance to other chassis components".
Does the drag link have a bend to clear the frame? If not how is clearance handled?
Near the end of the page is a note regarding wheel clearance: Note: A minimum of 16” diameter wheels must be a good day used with the JK high steer knuckle kit, "16" wheel w/ min 4.5 back spacing ".[/I
Most lifts specify a very minimum of 4.75" back spacing when running 35" tires. As such there are quite a few wheels out there with that back spacing. Will a 17" diameter wheel with 4.75" back spacing be and easy adequate to clear the knuckle?
Have you performed any destructive testing comparing strength of the YETI vs other custom HD steering linkages?
Question 1 yes we engineered the product to miss all areas of the frame and any other components. We have been engineering the jeep for the past few years. We have the complete front end of the wrangler in our computers.
Question 2 yes the drag link has a bend. We bend the draglink in the forging near the knuckles and have a straight tube for adjustment.
Question 3. Yes the 17 inch wheel with the 4.75 inch back space will work.
Question 4 yes we do a lot of testing with our products. We have a large test lab at our manufacturing facility located in Ohio. We design our product with CAD and perform computer simulations (FEA) prior to building the first linkage. We also test on vehicles. We test our seals on a non stop 17 day test with cold and hot salt water spraying on the seal and then test for water content in the grease. And yes we have purchased others linkages and are surprised at what we see.
Steering is our core business and this YETI linkage is the best linkage ever built for wrangler. We have built millions and millions of steering linkages over the past 85 years and applied those lessons learned to this YETI product.
Please let me know if you have a any other concerns or questions. And thanks for the conversation.
Compliant
Thanks Ken for clarifying. Our patent pending top mount linkage is a fraction of an inch lower, (closer to the knuckle) than others because we don't use a bushing in a drilled hole. The bushing that people insert into the drilled hole raises the socket just the fraction higher.
Our YETI drag link that we offer for the people that have the drilled out knuckle is about the same height as the other brands.
So yes, a top mount drag link does need the lift kit like Ken suggested.
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