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Not shifting into four wheel

40K views 66 replies 31 participants last post by  ROBDOG1 
#1 ·
2007 Rubicon, manual transmission - this morning I tried shifting into four wheel drive (4H) and the shift stick is very loose, not feeling anything engaging? thoughts??
 
#3 ·
On this issue: Does anybody have a picture of these bushings installed?

I stopped by my local dealership and picked up four of the bushings as a matter of good insurance.

However, when I climbed under my Jeep this morning (suit and all, very nice) to make sure I could use them if and when the time comes, I couldn't see where I would insert them. I assume it must go above the t-case somewhere, but between the skid plate and the hot exhaust, I can't see how you could fix it yourself out on the trial . . . :confused:

Most of the pics I've seen online are of DIY "alternate" fixes that don't really demonstrate the proper use of the bushing. For example, there's an oft referenced JKO thread, but all the pics are of a removed t-case where the guy modded the shifter handle.
 
#4 ·
Let me start out by saying that the bushing is an easy fix. It is simply snapped into place in a round hole on the end of a cable and then the cable and bushing are snapped onto a pin.

What you will need is this part from the dealer, it costs about sixty cents.

P/N 68064273-AA

Now to find some pictures:



To find where under your jeep that this is, crawl under from the driver's side about at the driver door. Look for the transfer case and on the side of the case that faces the driver side of the jeep, you will find what is in the picture above. It is just above the exhaust pipe and if you just shut the jeep off exercise care around the hot exhaust. The picture shows the linkage disconnected from the place on the shifter lever that it goes on and I see no bushing in the hole at the end of the linkage. The bushing is made of white plastic.



This picture shows the linkage placed on the pin. I still see no bushing. Placing the linkage on the pin will allow you to temporarily use the shift lever to get the transfer case into 2wd for use on the road if you were in something other than 2wd.

Look at the shape of the bushing. You will see which surface goes towards the pin. Just snap the bushing into the round hole on the end of the cable and then the bushing pushes onto the pin and snaps into place.

Simple.
 
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#7 ·
Let me start out by saying that the bushing is an easy fix. It is simply snapped into place in a round hole on the end of a cable and then the cable and bushing are snapped onto a pin.

What you will need is this part from the dealer, it costs about sixty cents.

P/N 68064273-AA

Now to find some pictures:



To find where under your jeep that this is, crawl under from the driver's side about at the driver door. Look for the transfer case and on the side of the case that faces the driver side of the jeep, you will find what is in the picture above. It is just above the exhaust pipe and if you just shut the jeep off exercise care around the hot exhaust. The picture shows the linkage disconnected from the place on the shifter lever that it goes on and I see no bushing in the hole at the end of the linkage. The bushing is made of white plastic.



This picture shows the linkage placed on the pin. I still see no bushing. Placing the linkage on the pin will allow you to temporarily use the shift lever to get the transfer case into 2wd for use on the road if you were in something other than 2wd.

Look at the shape of the bushing. You will see which surface goes towards the pin. Just snap the bushing into the round hole on the end of the cable and then the bushing pushes onto the pin and snaps into place.

Simple.
You answered my question fast, thanks.
 
#6 ·
We must have posted at the same time.
 
#9 ·
^^ I'll see if I can get a decent picture of mine. Give me a few minutes. I'll take a picture of the bushing from hell as well.
 
#10 ·
Off Road King said:
I need to get those things, how much are they, part #, and how do I install them?
On price, I picked up four from my local dealership at I believe 57 cents each.
 
#11 ·
jk'n said:
^^ I'll see if I can get a decent picture of mine. Give me a few minutes. I'll take a picture of the bushing from hell as well.
Thanks--I've got to wait until morning to take another look, but the pics so far have been helpful. Don't recall seeing anything like that this morning . . . If I can't find it tomorrow either I'll toss up some pics of whatever the heck it is I'm looking at.
 
#12 ·
Thanks--I've got to wait until morning to take another look, but the pics so far have been helpful. Don't recall seeing anything like that this morning . . . If I can't find it tomorrow either I'll toss up some pics of whatever the heck it is I'm looking at.
I could not find that cable on mine either, I looked after those first pics where up.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Below is a picture of the bag with the part number:

Text Label Font


And the plastic bushing. Note the small square on the part of the bushing that will face outside.

Technology


And the place where the bushing is mounted. You should be able to make out that square.

Auto part Pipe Family car


I could barely get the camera up there to take a picture. The exhaust pipe is out of focus in the fore ground. Beyond that is the drive axle that goes to the front differential. The drive axle is what makes the bushing so difficult to see. It is almost directly below where the shifter lever is for the transfer case. I had to hold the camera above the exhaust pipe to get a picture of it. I had to slide under the jeep just behind the front wheel at about where the hinges are for the driver's side door.
 
#22 ·
Below is a picture of the bag with the part number:

View attachment 54636

And the plastic bushing. Note the small square on the part of the bushing that will face outside.

View attachment 54637

And the place where the bushing is mounted. You should be able to make out that square.

View attachment 54638

I could barely get the camera up there to take a picture. The exhaust pipe is out of focus in the fore ground. Beyond that is the drive axle that goes to the front differential. The drive axle is what makes the bushing so difficult to see. It is almost directly below where the shifter lever is for the transfer case. I had to hold the camera above the exhaust pipe to get a picture of it. I had to slide under the jeep just behind the front wheel at about where the hinges are for the driver's side door.
That little thing is hard as hell to get to, I think I felt it when I was reaching up their...
 
#17 ·
JK'n...could you be more specific? I'm JK'n (Just Kidding). Thanks for taking the time for all the details. I'm also gonna pic up a set and throw them in the glove box so I'll have em when I need em :thumb:
Use the proper techique to shift into 4WD and you'll never need them. that plastic piece is designed to break so that dange is not caused to the TC.
 
#15 ·
@ JP

I started reading your post and began to think.....maybe I should draw a picture!

Then the logic started to kick in as I read on. :rofl:

I don't know how those two top pictures were so clean and in focus. Whoever took them is pretty good with a camera.
 
#16 · (Edited)
***** A WARNING TO ALL JK OWNERS 07 TO BRAND NEW WHO WHEEL *******
***** MANUAL TRANSMISSION OR AUTOMATIC....IT DOESN'T MATTER ********

This little sixty cent bushing of death will break at the most in-opportune time when you are out in the middle of no-where. God help you if you don't carry a spare......or five in the glove box.

When I broke mine, I was accused of man handling my stick......
Well since then I've been handling it like a girly-man....
My stick has been much better since.....
It hasn't eaten any additional bushings.....
But I think it is just a poor system and it is just a matter of time before I break another bushing.

If you wheel with a club and keep extras in the box for when your stick gets bent out of shape and goes loose....think of the joy you will experience when you know you have a spare in the box! Now if someone else manhandles their stick....think of the fun you will have when you produce one of those bushings waaaaaay out in the woods. I relish the thought.
 
#44 ·
This post is so true and I wish I would have read this before my trip to the beach a month ago! Stranded for 5-6 hours after getting hung up in deep sand and I tried to shift from 4H to 4L and SNAP! There went my shifter and subsequently found that it was the dreaded plastic bushing. Didn't have a spare (because I didn't read this post!!). Going to buy extras right now!
 
#23 ·
I think you need a drop light in the right place and if you peer in from the right direction you will see it. Looking at it from directly below the trans-axle blocks the view, any further in towards the center-line of the jeep and the skid plate blocks the view. You can barely see it looking in between the exhaust pipe and the tans-axle.
 
#39 · (Edited)
You should file a BBB complaint for them charging $120 to snap a .57 cent bushing on. I guarantee they will try and get you to drop the complaint by offering you something.

$120 was highway robbery. It sounds like the reason they won't file it under warranty is they known Chrysler won't pay them $120 for this work.
 
#27 ·
Mine went out when I tried shifting into 4WD and I am stuck in 4WDH. Is there a way to get it back into 2WD until I can get to a dealer and get the bushing? My shifter is totally loose and slides back and forth. Thanks!
 
#29 ·
If the bottom linkage is off, you can temporarily put the ring at the end of the cable back on the pin, it won't stay there for too long but if you are careful you will be able to shift it out of 4 into 2 wd. That is how I got mine to the dealer. The dealer may or may not have extra bushings. That is why, at 60 cents each, it is better to have a few spares in the glove-box.
 
#28 ·
I loosened the center console and slide the cable back in place. My guess is if your 4WD shifter is totally loose and will slide back and forth it is the top bushing and if you shift the lever and the shifter still goes into the notches somewhat it is the lower bushing. When I bought it the bottom bushing was gone. Thanks again.
 
#30 ·
After the embarrassing ride home at the end of a yella strap last weekend from the 4x4 trails I was at, I am going to change that little bushing once a year whether it needs it or not. Changing it was a breeze in the driveway; in a mud hole, not so much.

There was remnants of the old bushing on the pin and the flange of it was still there. It looked more deteriorated from the elements being underneath the truck than abuse. It looks and feels like it is made of nylon and a little experience I have with nylon tells me it won't hold up too long in that environment.

I just got my Jeep a month ago so I don’t' know how many may have been changed. I suspect this is the first time. The one I put in yesterday might last three years but based on a reminder in my Outlook it only has 364 more days to go.

BTW, GREAT topic here. This is the one that got me to sign up. I should have looked this up on my BlackBerry while I was waiting on that yella strap. That was bad...
 
#31 ·
Alrigh I have an issue with this too. I figured out the problem with the plastic bushing underneath the center console that connects the shifter to the rod and replaced it.

NOW i am having a simliar issue. Shifter is loose. Bushing is INTACT. rod is moving when actuated but still... nothing is happening and is completely loose.

Help!

What do i gotta do? do i need to access another bushing somewhere? some kind of linkage? if so... how do i get to it? Thanks FELLAS!
 
#32 ·
Have you inspected the plastic bushing connecting the shifter cable to the lever on the side of the transfer case under the jeep? It is at about where the driver door is. It is very difficult to see. But at the right angle you can see it.
 
#33 ·
Alright, so, assuming that the bushing for the upper connection connecting the shifter to the rod, is the same as the lower connection to the transfer case, then the problem is fixed. i just through one of those bushings on there as hard as I could. really wish it was more mechanical rather than a little piece of plastic...

we'll see how she works. just used my last bushing. need to go get a few more!

haha thanks JK'N... i am sure i will have more questions later.
 
#35 ·
From what I'm hearing, there are two. One that connects the shifter to the cable that is reached from above and one that connects the cable to the lever on the transfer case. I got stranded by the one on the transfer case lever. I replaced it from under the jeep...and it was a bit of a chore. But doable.
 
#41 ·
This still applies to 2013 jku I'm assuming? I was futzing around with the 4wd when I bought my jku the other day and didn't understand the proper procedure for shifting. I went into 4wd then it felt stuck when I tried to move it back into 2h. Didn't want to move. Eventually it did when I went from park to drive but was hoping I didn't do anything wrong. How do I know if I broke this bushing? I'll go order a few... If my shifter is solid and doesn't want to move easily I'm ok?
 
#42 ·
Mine was VERY tight the fist about 5 times I shifted into 4-lo. About like picking up a 24 pack of cokes. Now it goes in with no problems. I broke mine in going straight (don't want to turn in 4wd on dry pavement) in a parking lot a few times.

You want to clutch (stick shift) or put the trans in neutral before shifting into, or out of, 4-low. The user manual suggest going 2 mph. I like to stop and put it in. If it doesn't slide in I move forward a foot and try again.

It will be the same with the 2013. If you broke it it wouldn't shift into a different mode (2wd, 4hi, 4low). You could tell on the instrument panel and it would behave like the first post.

2007 Rubicon, manual transmission - this morning I tried shifting into four wheel drive (4H) and the shift stick is very loose, not feeling anything engaging? thoughts??

FROM THE USER MANUAL
Shifting Procedure
2H to 4H or 4H to 2H
Shifting between 2H and 4H can be made with the vehicle stopped or in motion. With the vehicle in motion, the transfer case will engage/disengage faster if you momentarily release the accelerator pedal after complet- ing the shift. Apply a constant force when shifting the transfer case lever.
4Hto4Lor4Lto4H
With the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift an automatic transmission into NEUTRAL (N), or press the clutch pedal on a manual transmission. While the vehicle is coasting at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift the transfer case lever firmly to the desired position. Do not pause with the transfer case in N (Neutral). Once the shift is completed, place the automatic transmission into DRIVE or release the clutch pedal on a manual transmis- sion.
NOTE: Shifting into or out of 4L is possible with the vehicle completely stopped; however, difficulty may oc- cur due to the mating teeth not being properly aligned. Several attempts may be required for clutch teeth align- ment and shift completion to occur. The preferred method is with the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h). Avoid attempting to engage or disengage 4L with the vehicle moving faster than 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h).
WARNING!
Failure to engage a position completely can cause transfer case damage or loss of power and vehicle control. You could have a collision. Do not drive the vehicle unless the transfer case is fully engaged
 
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