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View Poll Results: What type of oil do you run in your 3.8L
Dino oil 7 24.14%
5w-20 Mobil 1 syntethic 11 37.93%
5w-20 Pennzoil Platinum 1 3.45%
5w-20 Synpower (Valvoline) Synthetic 2 6.90%
5w-20 Other Synthetic or SynBlend 7 24.14%
0w-20 Mobil 1 1 3.45%
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 04-22-2009, 10:21 AM   #1
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Official JK 3.8L Oil Poll

Quick and easy poll on one of the most notoriously rampant subjects.
Just would like a quick answer to determine what fellow 3.8L friends are doing.

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Old 04-22-2009, 01:11 PM   #2
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Only at 500 miles, but deciding to do a quick switch to Mobile 1 since I have heard good things. I also want to see that the new motor is being broken in okay without much metallic debris.

On a side note AndyLA, your sig, the jeep has the 7 notches in the grill, not 5... right?

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Old 04-22-2009, 02:26 PM   #3
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im only at like 2000 so when i need to switch i will probly go mobile 1
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:41 PM   #4
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I know, but 5 looks better to me......and I get charged by the letter..... J/K...
:P
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Old 04-22-2009, 03:43 PM   #5
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I am doing my first oil change at 800 miles (wanted to do 500, but drove right through that --- LOL) ---- Synpower w/PureOne oil filter. <----- took me 4 autoparts stores to find that filter. Bought 4 of them. :P
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Old 04-22-2009, 04:08 PM   #6
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Why would you have the oil changed at 800miles? I thought I don't need to do that until first revision, that should be at 10000km... Am I missing something? I am at 6500km allready...
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Old 04-22-2009, 05:32 PM   #7
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i see no need for synthetic oil, unless you just can't stay on top of the maintenance.

and i change the oil in any new vehicle i get at 500 miles. and i also check over everything that was missed on the pdi.

filter is as or more important to me. there are cheap crappy filters out there. there's virtually no regulations on oil filters. mopar, or wix (sold as napa gold, and at carquest) is all i'll use.

i don't own a j/k but i'm a mechanic, that motor has been around for a very long time in the minivans, and its a good motor. change the oil on time (3k) everytime and you'll never have an engine oiling problem that is preventable.
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:44 AM   #8
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i running royal purple with a k&n gold filter. i change at 5000 miles. going to amsoil after next change because i found it $2.30 cheaper /qt than royal purple.
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Old 04-23-2009, 06:58 AM   #9
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To each his own on the oil debate, mishel....but as an engineer, I can tell you that immediate post-fabrication particulates can be quite apparent and damaging in the first 500-1000 miles of a new engine build. Best to flush out quickly and reduce the potential for unforeseen negative events. Now on the dino vs. syn, that is a can of worms that has been opened so many times, I don't think there are any worms left...... :P

Run whatever you want....My Tahoe has 160k miles on a 5.7L V8, always been dino oil and never had any problems and it is still going strong as my DD. It is either a good engine that was built with the proper tolerances and has been maintained properly or not. Simple as that. Now for my "performance cars", I did use nothing but Mobil 1, but that was mostly due to the requirements of the engines and it being shipped from the factory with Mobil 1 from Day 1.

Maintenance is key. For me, I researched them all, and I stand behind Puralator PureOne PL10241 for our engines....great filter for the $ ---

Let me close this can quickly......I think I see a fossilized worm waking up......
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:09 AM   #10
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^ Yep. Having built engines for years, there's always "Break-in oil" and a "break-in filter" in every engine I've built. While you CAN run the factory oil for the first 3k, I sure wouldn't. That's when every bit of initial friction occurs. I don't know if the OEM's do anything like this at the factory, but I still do it, to be safe.

In terms of oil, the ONLY thing I'll EVER run in ANY vehicle is Mobil 1 in the reccommended grade for the ambient temperature and use.

For filters, OEM, Mobil 1, or Purolator PureOne, and Wix are all I'd ever reccommend for anything. Since the Jeep won't be raced, and will be mostly stock, and OEM filter's for me, especially since I've heard word of drainback issues on some of the aftermarket filters- Mark W.
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:47 PM   #11
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^ well, I guess I need to change my oil. thank tou for the advice... I hope I didn't do too much damage allready
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Old 04-24-2009, 02:16 PM   #12
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question, I consulted my dealership about using synthetic oil and they suggested me to go synthetic from the second year, not necessary for the first year. don't know why....
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Old 04-24-2009, 02:31 PM   #13
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they're idiots
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdocdave View Post
they're idiots


FWIW,
I just changed my oil --- went GTX 5w-20, going to swap to synthetic at 3,000. Used the PureOne PL10241 filter.
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Old 04-24-2009, 10:58 PM   #15
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Mishel- no worries- lifetime powertrain warranty, na? Also, there won't be any major damage- just give the oil a nice, long drain
Alligator, Dave's right- your dealership seems to be operated by morons, or you misinterpreted what they said. Ignore anyone who tells you that you can't or shouldn't change to synthetic for ANYTHING, with the possible exception of break-in on a high-performance engine. And even then, you CAN run synthetic- it's usually just not worth throwing out $30+ worth of oil! Mark W.
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Old 04-25-2009, 09:04 AM   #16
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^ nice, thank you, you just made my day...
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Old 04-25-2009, 10:23 AM   #17
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Hey, anytime I can make a lady's day, I'm happy to oblige
If you want to have some real fun, cut open the filter (Andy, you should do this too) and see just how much metal was in there. I'd love to see pictures. Going to do this with mine soon, probably Monday night or Tuesday morning- Mark W.
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Old 04-25-2009, 02:52 PM   #18
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I didn't cut it yet, but I am certain there is a ton of metal...... I will try this weekend.

Not that doesn't sound like fun for a lady, Mark!!! :P
It sounds like it is pretty easy to make Mishel's day.....doesn't it?
I like those simple women.....

LOL
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Old 04-25-2009, 03:09 PM   #19
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Yep- mine's great, and now LOVES the idea of going doorless and topless! How can I not marry a woman who loves going topless?! Oh yeah, still have to buy the engagement ring- d'oh! (She's cracking up right now- woo hoo! Nakey time after work )

Anywho... Yeah- work was boring today- it's SUNNY AND 80 OUT AND I'M STUCK INSIDE WITH A DOORLESS/TOPLESS JK SITTING RIGHT OUTSIDE AND I CAN'T GO PLAY!!! WAAAAH!

I need beer... Mark W.
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Old 04-25-2009, 04:34 PM   #20
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:d LOL
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Old 04-25-2009, 09:40 PM   #21
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OK- just gave our baby her first change Had to go with 0W-20 Mobil 1 Fuel Economy since the 4 Autozone/Advanced stores around me had a combined total of 4 quarts of 5W-20 (WTF?). I must say- not sure if it's just me being lazy and dead tired (doing it at 9:30 PM), but that was MESSY! Dang
Also probably should have pulled it in the garage vs. doing it in the driveway. Gravel+oil=yuck
Oh well- our first step to a happier monster Will try to cut the filter open Monday or Tuesday- will try to post pics- Mark W.
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:57 PM   #22
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i dont think its been covered yet so i figure ill add this. any time you build a motor, any motor, there is a break in period where the bearings mate with the rods, mains, cam, etc. there is also a break in period for the rings on the pistons. allot of new cars are starting to come with synth already in them from the factory and its killing compression and power because the synth is actually too good for a break in oil and the rings aren't meshing with the cylinder walls. any time i build a motor i use dino oil for the first 3000 miles and change it at 500 and 1500 then switch to synth at 3000. by the time you reach 3000 the motor is broken enough that the extra lubrication of the synth oil is good for it.
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Old 04-26-2009, 08:55 AM   #23
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0w20? does the manual list that as an option in normal climates? i would never use it. i know its used on hybrids, and ulev (ultra low emission vehicle) honda and such, mainly for emissions and fuel economy.

that 3.8 minivan motor has been around for a long time, it is by no means a new engine. i would use 5w30 if i was ever crazy enough to buy a new one.

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