So I am due on all 4 corners soon, and want to tackle this myself. Going to need all 4 rotors and pads for each. When getting the caliper piston back in, which is better, opening the bleeder, or opening the master cylinder? I haven't messed with brakes in about 10 years when I used to work on my own 600 lb harley (and that was just to bleed), never worked on auto brakes. Assuming bleeding is the same, starting at furthest from master cylinder and working closer.
I've always removed the reservoir cap, but now that you bring the question up that might be bad for the antilock stuff. Maybe the bleeder would be best? Don't know just throwing that out there. I've put pads on a antilock vehicle probably three or four times just pulling the cap with no ill effects.
I read a scary thread about a guy who did exactly what you are about to do. He ended up with substantial issues with the ABS components.
The consensus was that the brake line should be clamped to prevent ANY debris from being pushed into the system, and using the bleeder to relieve the pressure.
What? It's a sealed system. Unless you get a bunch of dirt down into the reservoir cap like a doofus, there's nothing to be concerned about.
If you open the bleeder screw you are likely to need to re-bleed the brakes afterwards. If the fluid is older than about three years you should probably do that anyway.
I used a C-Clamp to push the pistons back in. Never touched the master cylinder. Had both front rotors and pads done in less than an hour including wheel spacers. Easiest brake job ever.
I've done rotors and pads myself for the past 10 years in all the vehicles i've had, like ibikee, i simply take the reservoir cap off, and use a c-clamp to push the piston back, I've never ever had any issues doing this way, i've done the Jeep 3 times already.
I have never paid for a brake job. I also take the Reservoir top off. I use a giant pair of channel lock pliers to compress the pistons. Never had an issue. Until I changed my wife's breaks got distracted and forgot to tighten the caliper bolts on the back wheel. Needles to say it fell off and I got blamed for trying to kill my wife Just make sure you tighten everything back up.
KevinNJ, follow what rsmwrangler wrote. It's the same as any other vehicle. Open the master cylinder cap, compress the calipers with a c clamp, sometimes two help.
Pop in the new pads. Remove the clamps, close the master cylinder.
Then put a piece of 1/8" tygon tubing on the zirk fitting and then do a bleed. This is as easy as having a friend pushing 10+times on the brake pedal, holding it down, then you will slightly open the fitting on each brake for just a moment and quickly reclose. Walk around each one doing the same thing.
Def res cap off. Personally, I don't see the need to bleed unless the fluid is really old or somehow you managed to get air in the system. And we don't race these things so I doubt anyone is boiling their fluid.
I prefer to use one of the old pads with a c clamp to push the calipers back nice and smooth without chancing piston damage.
I agree, on all you say. And when I do feel the need to bleed the brakes, I flush the whole system instead by using a turkey baster/fluid sucking device to suck out most of the master cylinder, refill, then "bleed" (2 person, pump and hold method) each wheel multiple times until clear colored fluid comes out of each, while refilling the master multiple times (don't let it get low). I do this every few years on all my vehicles. Yes, you have to buy multiple bottles of fluid (maybe 50-80 oz depending on the vehicle (haven't done my 15 JKUS yet as it too new)), but I feel better about it this way.
All brake fluid gets old and absorbs water eventually, I think most manufacturers recommend flushing the system every 5 years.
And if you ever topped off your brake fluid during normal maintenance and then if you push the calipers back in during a brake pad change the fluid can overflow the reservoir, so take some fluid back out before you start.
The master cylinder reservoir cap is vented. No need to remove it. The only thing to watch out for is if you topped-off the brake fluid in the reservoir at some point when the pads were worn - pushing the caliper pistons back in will cause the reservoir to overflow and make a big mess.
EDIT:
Here is the front brake pad replacement procedure directly from the FSM:
Front Pad Removal: Raise and support vehicle.
Remove wheel and tire assembly.
Drain small amount of fluid from master cylinder brake reservoir with clean suction gun.
Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts.
Compress the caliper and remove from the adaptor. Secure caliper to nearby suspension part with wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.
Remove the anti-rattle clips from the brake caliper adapter.
Front Pad Installation: Remove and clean all rust and debris from the anti-rattle clip mounting surfaces on the brake caliper adapter.
Install new anti-rattle clips into the caliper adapter.
Install the inboard and outboard brake pads onto the caliper adapter.
Install caliper on the caliper adapter.
Install the caliper slide pin bolts and tighten to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).
Install wheel and tire assembly.
Remove support and lower vehicle.
Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and brake pads are seated and a firm brake pedal is obtained.
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