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Old 11-26-2013, 04:30 PM   #1
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Thumbs up Really Bad Steering Symptoms

Alright,

So i own a 09 JKU with roughly 60k Miles. All of the steering components are original with the addition of 35X12.5 Mt's that i had installed 3 months ago.

My problem is actual performance while on the road. Any bump that i hit on the road surface causes my front end to almost jump or jerk in a random direction. Mind you i dont have death wobble, yet but id imagine it wont be long before it actually start happening.

I received a quote from my local shop to replace everything, from links to ball joints to control arms. What it would cost to do these upgrades is approaching $2500 which is a little much being im going to be purchasing a long arm kit just after the first of the year and throwing it all out.

? -Now with that said where would be the first place to look?
? -Is it possible to replace bushings in all the components or am i looking at actually having to replacing the entire part. ie. tierods, drag link, control arms etc

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

On the flip side of this i'm planning some major upgrades in the coming months. I will be installing a long arm kit in a month or so, along with 14bolt axles to make room for 40's and support a V8 power plant, later this spring. Without buying parts twice what would be the best approach to take given the scenario. Opinions are welcome.

What i thought i would do is get a pair of axles, start rebuilding them with brand new parts and when i complete the setup throw them in.


Like i said, i welcome your opinions/ comments. Thanks guys!

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Old 11-26-2013, 04:34 PM   #2
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Alright, So i own a 09 JKU with roughly 60k Miles. All of the steering components are original with the addition of 35X12.5 Mt's that i had installed 3 months ago. My problem is actual performance while on the road. Any bump that i hit on the road surface causes my front end to almost jump or jerk in a random direction. Mind you i dont have death wobble, yet. I received a quote from my local shop to replace everything, from links to ball joints to control arms. What it would cost to do these upgrades is approaching $2500 which is a little much being im going to be purchasing a long arm kit just after the first of the year and throwing it all out. ? -Now with that said where would be the first place to look? ? -Is it possible to replace bushings in all the components or am i looking at actually having to replacing the entire part. ie. tierods, drank link, control arms etc ----------------------------------------------------------------------- On the flip side of this i'm planning some major upgrades in the coming months. I will be installing a long arm kit in a month or so, along with 14bolt axles to make room for 40's and support a V8 power plant, later this spring. Without buying parts twice what would be the best approach to take given the scenario. Opinions are welcome. What i thought i would do is get a pair of axles, start rebuilding them with brand new parts and when i complete the setup throw them in. Like i said, i welcome your opinions/ comments. Thanks guys!
I just replace all my lower control arm bolts and track bar bolts with 9/16 and everything tightened up on mine.

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Old 11-26-2013, 04:38 PM   #3
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check your balljoints
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:56 PM   #4
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Yes you need to go through the steering/suspension 100%. If you are not going to replace, remove and inspect bushings/holes.

TRE's and ball joints done that long. Mine were toast after 30k and replaced.

What you have kinda sound like bumpsteer. Are you lifted ?
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:56 PM   #5
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Sounds like "bump steer" and I think the cure is a drag link flip kit. I'm sure someone else with more knowlage will chime in.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:59 PM   #6
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I'm running all Synergy steering. Flipped drag link and TF track bar. Running 40's you will want hydro assist.
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:22 PM   #7
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I'm having sort of the same issue lately. The only change was going from 33s to 35s and doing a SS relo with a TF SS.

Not a PSI issue.

I'll be driving along and it feels like the front end decides to suddenly go left/right for no good reason.

Not completely annoying but it ain't fun.
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:22 PM   #8
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Bump steer is prolly what i have then. I am not lifted though.

Its been getting progressively worse since the 35's, go figure Lol :P Im well over due replacing everything at 60K. Im just in that spot where im going to be replacing everything in a month or two but its just getting to the point where i need to do SOMETHING. I almost dont even want my girlfriend to drive it. Im afraid she wont be able to counter when it goes wonky.

Thanks for all your input everyone
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:57 PM   #9
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No ... Bumpsteer is only caused by the drag link and track bar kinda fighting each other. Not going to happen with no lift or a small lift. The fix for bumpsteer would be to correct the geometry.

Something else is wrong.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:00 PM   #10
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No ... Bumpsteer is only caused by the drag link and track bar kinda fighting each other. Not going to happen with no lift or a small lift. The fix for bumpsteer would be to correct the geometry.

Something else is wrong.
Can ball joints attribute to road manners of this type?
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:15 PM   #11
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Not by themselves in my experience. Along with something else definitely.

Have somebody turn the wheel 9-3 while you look at everything.
http://youtu.be/hb6mrtqw2Ws

For the ball joints. Get each tire off the ground about 2-3". Shove a crowbar or something strong under the tire and pry up.
For the bearings, grab tire 9-3 and push/pull.
It will be noticeable if you have worn joints or bearings.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:39 PM   #12
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Not by themselves in my experience. Along with something else definitely.

Have somebody turn the wheel 9-3 while you look at everything.
Steer test 07 Jk - YouTube

For the ball joints. Get each tire off the ground about 2-3". Shove a crowbar or something strong under the tire and pry up.
For the bearings, grab tire 9-3 and push/pull.
It will be noticeable if you have worn joints or bearings.
Thank you very much . I will check it out asap. Appreciate your time.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:48 PM   #13
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:07 PM   #14
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Will do!
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:58 PM   #15
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Can ball joints attribute to road manners of this type?
mine did, but all 4 were completely trashed from 37's.

what I got was a jeep that would be going in a straight line and then the wind would shift and my steering wheel is now 45* to one side, surprisingly it never kicked in ESP. mine also came with deathwobble.

balljoints are easy to check, just get a tire off the ground and try to move the top side to side.

mine were so bad that when I removed them I was able to press the top ones out through the top.

yea I pretty much just said what kjeeper said, I may or may not be drinking
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:07 AM   #16
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mine did, but all 4 were completely trashed from 37's.

what I got was a jeep that would be going in a straight line and then the wind would shift and my steering wheel is now 45* to one side, surprisingly it never kicked in ESP. mine also came with deathwobble.

balljoints are easy to check, just get a tire off the ground and try to move the top side to side.

mine were so bad that when I removed them I was able to press the top ones out through the top.

yea I pretty much just said what kjeeper said, I may or may not be drinking


Tweak,

Appreciate your response. I will certainly check it out after im done at the sweat shop, i mean work.
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:56 PM   #17
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Alright back from turkey coma! Sorry it took so long.


Diagnoses:

Clicking and movement in the passenger side tierod end, drag link end and the top of the tire moves maybe 1/8" when pulled and pushed.

There is also a clicking noise coming from the pitman arm. I can only imagine that is out as well.


Thoughts?...
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:55 PM   #18
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Alright back from turkey coma! Sorry it took so long. Diagnoses: Clicking and movement in the passenger side tierod end, drag link end and the top of the tire moves maybe 1/8" when pulled and pushed. There is also a clicking noise coming from the pitman arm. I can only imagine that is out as well. Thoughts?...
Make sure it's the joint and not the sector shaft.

Synergy upgrade time
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:58 PM   #19
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Make sure it's the joint and not the sector shaft.

Synergy upgrade time
What are you talking about when you say the sector shaft vs. the joint?
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:34 PM   #20
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What are you talking about when you say the sector shaft vs. the joint?
The tie rod end or the pitman arm were it goes into the steering box. It's a splined gear that can be twisted or worn out.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:35 PM   #21
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I'd look at the balljoints first. A drag link flip would be ill advised if you are not lifted ENOUGH (3"+). I assume you checked the torque, bolts, and holes of the trackbar/control arms, inspected the bushings on everything and gave them a clean bill of health. If not, your problem may lie with them, in addition to balljoints that are shot as well. I definitely wouldn't go replacing anything and everything, giving a shop carte blanche on parts replacement.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:36 PM   #22
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The tie rod end or the pitman arm were it goes into the steering box. It's a splined gear that can be twisted or worn out.
This too. If you wheel often enough, you could have damaged something, and the larger tires are exaggerating the problem.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:39 PM   #23
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Nobody mentioned a drag link flip. Not I at least.
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:07 AM   #24
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I'd look at the balljoints first. A drag link flip would be ill advised if you are not lifted ENOUGH (3"+). I assume you checked the torque, bolts, and holes of the trackbar/control arms, inspected the bushings on everything and gave them a clean bill of health. If not, your problem may lie with them, in addition to balljoints that are shot as well. I definitely wouldn't go replacing anything and everything, giving a shop carte blanche on parts replacement.
I didnt check the control arms. I will have to do that.

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This too. If you wheel often enough, you could have damaged something, and the larger tires are exaggerating the problem.
The clicking noise coming from the pitman arm is pretty bad.

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Nobody mentioned a drag link flip. Not I at least.
What is flipping the drag link going to do if one of the ends is bad?
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:30 AM   #25
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I didnt check the control arms. I will have to do that. The clicking noise coming from the pitman arm is pretty bad. What is flipping the drag link going to do if one of the ends is bad?
Nothing for your problem. Typically a high steer or drag link flip is used to correct steering geometry at higher lifts. Now if you had 3-4" of lift and needed to replace the drag link. A flipped drag link and raised track bar bracket is a option.

Sounds to me you possibly have a steering box problem. Or the sector shaft is twisted or loose.
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:56 AM   #26
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Gonna call and see if Iron Rock Offroad can take a look at it. Dealing with a rear main seal leak as well. Ooops Guess im too hard on my jeep.
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:59 AM   #27
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Let is know what happens :P
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:12 PM   #28
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Will do buddy! Thanks for all the help!
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:11 PM   #29
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Welp! Snapped the u-joint, bent the shaft and tore up the axle housing pretty bad on the driver side tonight doing about 65. Though i was gonna have to put er in the ditch! Holy christ death wobble.

Couple buddies said, "time for chromolies." Anyone have any suggestions. Thanks in advance. Its my daily driver so i guess ill be catching a ride for the next week or so.

Let me know. Thanks guys!
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Old 12-08-2013, 11:33 PM   #30
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you can always pull the axle shaft and driveshaft and drive it to work 2wd. I would advise changing your diff fluid when you get new stuff though.

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