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Old 06-13-2014, 10:10 PM   #1
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Rear Control Arms, AEV?

Hello I was looking into the kit and I was wondering does AEV do any geometry changes to the rear control arms? It doesn't seem like they do and I was wondering if adding in adjustable rear control arms would be beneficial to on road handling?

Also between the 3.5 and 4.5 lift, I'm guessing the control arms stay exactly the same? Its only the front brackets that have multiple hole positions for lift size? Is that correct?

Thanks a lot!

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Old 06-13-2014, 10:17 PM   #2
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This is one of the issues with AEV 3.5 and 4.5 kits. Especially with a 2 door w/ a short DS. Sueby installed uppers to help pinion angle. Having both sets will allow the axle to be centered in the well. The added wheelbase will improve handling on and off road.

The front is critical because of caster angle. The brackets also flatten the arms and change instant center to improve handling/reduce brake dive.

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Old 06-13-2014, 11:39 PM   #3
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Yea I noticed from the pictures that the rear axle does not seem to be centered at all and the wheels seem really close to the front end of the fenders. I think I might have to add rear control arms to my kit this complete kit is looking less and less complete the more I look into it.
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:43 PM   #4
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Are there any advantages to drop brackets vs high quality adjustable front control arms? On or offroad driving? If not I might just go with another kit then.
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:33 AM   #5
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Clearance loss with drop brackets, but arms alone can't replicate what the brackets do for handling. Depends how you use the jeep IMO Clearance might not be a issue ... Maybe it will ?
The drop brackets are a big reason the AEV Kit rides/handles so good. A point I always try to make about the AEV kit. I think the 2.5" is a nice setup. 3,5-4.5 kits are lacking and pricey for what you get.
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:42 AM   #6
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You do have a 4 door. Rear pinion angle is not going to be as Important. If you choose another kit and want to stay with 3.5". The high steer kit can be added down line if needed.
For comparisons sake. The Synergy kit supply's a chrome-moly drag link and one ton ends, HD TB bracket and sway bar brackets. AEV's kit uses a stock RHD drag link and smaller track bar bracket, swaybar brackets and SS.
Synergy cost less but without the SS.
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:51 AM   #7
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I feel like I might end up doing a frankenlift with a bunch of different parts. Or I might just do the 2.5 lift and 35's...

If I'm going for a 3.5 height with 35 tires or maybe 37 I'm thinking of these components
-AEV 3.5 Coils
-BIlstein Shocks
-AEV Drop Brackets
-Metalcloak rear control arms
-Synergy Sector Shaft + Trackbar
-Synergy Highsteer Drag link with drag link flip adapter
-AEV Rear trackbar tower + Trackbar
-Extended Brake Lines
-Artec Front Axle truss with raised trackbar brackets

What else would I need to make it work? Any modifications to the sway bars necessary?
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:07 AM   #8
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The Artec kit raises the front swaybar mounts.
I have stock rears in the front @ 3.5"
You'll want to extend your rears or drop the swaybar.

MC also has a rear track bar kit. (Bracket, specially bent adjustable track bar)

Check out the Rancho brackets. These are built better IMO.
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:09 AM   #9
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I don't think you can buy AEV Coils alone. I would say MC or Synergy are comparable to AEV's. There's nothing wrong with a frankin lift btw

Edit: if doing the truss.. The whole kit is $225-$250
I also did Currie JJ's @ the axle. Great upgrade and easily done at the same time.
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Old 06-14-2014, 03:14 AM   #10
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AEV has done an outstanding job designing a complete lift kit, why would you want to diminish it by playing Dr. Frankenstein. The only thing wrong with a Frankenlift is that is not Engineered as a system. Systems are so much more than a collection of parts but to each his own. Fortunately, Planman has provided us a systematic approach for resolving the problems that arise from many Frankenlifts.

If you like the handling and ride quality of the AEV kit buy the whole kit which includes a high steer kit and just add the control arms of your choice.
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Old 06-14-2014, 05:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
AEV has done an outstanding job designing a complete lift kit, why would you want to diminish it by playing Dr. Frankenstein. The only thing wrong with a Frankenlift is that is not Engineered as a system. Systems are so much more than a collection of parts but to each his own. Fortunately, Planman has provided us a systematic approach for resolving the problems that arise from many Frankenlifts. If you like the handling and ride quality of the AEV kit buy the whole kit which includes a high steer kit and just add the control arms of your choice.
Marketing FTW
Spin, outside the coils and tuned 5100's, what is engineered to "work together" when talking AEV.? And Are you saying DW is caused by mix and matching parts ?
Lastly.. Why would anybody want to buy the AEV kit Then add CA's when you can piece something together for less?
There's nothing specially engineered with the highsteer kit, geo brackets, rear tower that can't be replicated w/stronger, adjustable and better parts??

People may think I am anti AEV.... I'm not. You'll never see me say "it's junk .. Buy xxx". I like the 2.5 kit for the money.
I just think if you look at the big picture (and since the OP asked) the 3.5-4.5 AEV kits are in-complete and can be replicated for less with "IMO" better parts.




.
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:38 AM   #12
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Uh oh, here we go again with AEV. Hahaha!! I just installed the AEV 4.5 SC kit on my 2014 Rubicon and couldn't be happier. It's done everything I want it to do off road and drives F'n awesome. This is as first hand as it gets. No fan boy, marketing or dis allusions here. I love it


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Old 06-14-2014, 09:16 AM   #13
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I'm not knocking AEV. If it works for you .. Great
I just like to give other options that may save $$& down the road.
The OP asked about rear arms which are pretty darn important on a 2 door.

I noticed you have a 4 door. Which in is already going to ride/handle better stock. People need to understand, the 2 door will not handle as well as a 4 door lifted to such extremes unless setup correctly. Correctly meaning nothing "any" bolt on short/mid or AEV kit will do.

If I were to start over again, I would have 1.5" RK coils (2.5" 2 door), flat flares and 35's.
I made the mistakes and paid for them. If I can help people avoid those sale mistakes, I'm going to do so
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Marketing FTW
Spin, outside the coils and tuned 5100's, what is engineered to "work together" when talking AEV.? And Are you saying DW is caused by mix and matching parts ?
Lastly.. Why would anybody want to buy the AEV kit Then add CA's when you can piece something together for less?
There's nothing specially engineered with the highsteer kit, geo brackets, rear tower that can't be replicated w/stronger, adjustable and better parts??

People may think I am anti AEV.... I'm not. You'll never see me say "it's junk .. Buy xxx". I like the 2.5 kit for the money.
I just think if you look at the big picture (and since the OP asked) the 3.5-4.5 AEV kits are in-complete and can be replicated for less with "IMO" better parts.

.
I'm falling in line with this thought process. A trackbar relocation bracket is a trackbar relocation bracket, sway bar links are sway bar links as included in kits, etc. And there isn't enough engineering differences between brands to matter on 95% of the kit parts.

So where there are small differences, such as control arms and bushings and spring designs, I am going to choose what I believe is the best design on the parts and create my own "kit". AEV 2.5 was high on my list, but now I think I will do RK springs, MC control arms and front trackbar, Rancho shocks, JKS disconnects, etc...

I am also not anti AEV, but seeing how the geometry isn't optimized on the rear of the 3.5+ kits, I would have to add the parts and frankenlift it myself.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:24 AM   #15
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A curious question...anyone know why the rear upper axle side control arm mount is designed with square holes and the "ears" punched into them? Could this possibly be for cam bolts or ???
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:28 AM   #16
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A curious question...anyone know why the rear upper axle side control arm mount is designed with square holes and the "ears" punched into them? Could this possibly be for cam bolts or ???
Very good question. I don't think the rear upper axles mounts are the only ones squared. Iirc the front lower axle holes are too?
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:36 AM   #17
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Really, guess I didn't notice those. Should have, I checked and rechecked the bolt length with no arm installed before cutting the bolts down.
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:03 AM   #18
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Marketing FTW
x2.

Educate yourself on suspension and you'll see how much BS is really out there....and how many people buy into it.
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:04 AM   #19
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Really, guess I didn't notice those. Should have, I checked and rechecked the bolt length with no arm installed before cutting the bolts down.
Lol.. I've had those bolts out like 20 times and worked on 5-6 other JK's. I can't remember although... I do remember asking at one point.
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:11 AM   #20
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I went with the 3.5 aev on my 2 door. I added rear uppers to, hopefully, extend the life of my drive shaft. I am very happy with my set up, it drives awesome. It is not a dd any longer & I wheel it. I can tell you I have been hung on just about everything except my front lcas. The fact that they sit lower is a non issue to me.

I was torn between the RK & the AEV & there were 2 reasons I went AEV - the shop that did it does mostly AEV #1 & I didn't necessarily want 8 adjustable control arms #2. I have no ability to work on this stuff myself so I wanted to keep it simple. Trust me - the limitations on my jeep are driver ability - not the lift.

By the way, Kens an AEV fan boy, don't let him make you think any differently.
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:32 AM   #21
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Endangered does mostly AEV? Hmmm that's a surprise. Shops usually pimp RE, RC, SJ shooting for the most profits
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:47 AM   #22
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Yea these guys are true jeep guys, not like a regular shop, or, gasp, a dealership! They told me if I could get the lift cheaper to go for it (but we know AEV doesn't play that). I actually ordered my wheels/tires from DT & had them shipped there. They didn't care that I bought them elsewhere.
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:43 PM   #23
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I'm still on the fence right now. If I were to go with the AEV and wanted to change my rear control arms which ones should I do first the upper or lower arms? I want to get the rear tire back to center in the wheel wells.
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:58 PM   #24
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You need both uppers and lowers to properly center the axle and adjust pinion angle.
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Old 06-14-2014, 02:00 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by RacecarBMW View Post
I'm still on the fence right now. If I were to go with the AEV and wanted to change my rear control arms which ones should I do first the upper or lower arms? I want to get the rear tire back to center in the wheel wells.
FWIW I was thinking about centering my rear wheels until I went off roading and stuffed the rear a few times. When the rear tire gets stuffed on an AEV kit, it gets centered because of the radius of the control arms. When sitting normal, the rear tires are pulled forward a bit. I'm used to how it looks now and after I stuffed the rear a few times and saw how it was centered, I'm good with it now..
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Old 06-14-2014, 02:02 PM   #26
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And yes, I did say "stuffed the rear".😂
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Old 06-14-2014, 02:17 PM   #27
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The thing is I might be going with a 37" tire on the 3.5 lift. So I need the wheel to be in the perfect position. Any input on how the off centered wheel will behave, I feel like with this setup it will be way too close to the front side of the fender.

Most people I've talked to and seen that are running a similar setup (with larger bumpstops) say they have just a little rubbing and didn't change out the rear control arms so... I have no idea.
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Old 06-14-2014, 02:26 PM   #28
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Stock arms
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Old 06-14-2014, 03:17 PM   #29
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FWIW I was thinking about centering my rear wheels until I went off roading and stuffed the rear a few times. When the rear tire gets stuffed on an AEV kit, it gets centered because of the radius of the control arms. When sitting normal, the rear tires are pulled forward a bit. I'm used to how it looks now and after I stuffed the rear a few times and saw how it was centered, I'm good with it now..
See, I would rather have it be slightly to the rear when fully stuffed and centered when in 99.99% of use, even offroad you are rarely stuffed.

It just looks wrong when looking at it from the side in a normal sitting position... I might be over analyzing it, because overall the AEV 3.5-4.5 look very nice. It's just one of those "things" in my pea brain.
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Old 06-14-2014, 06:00 PM   #30
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Rear Control Arms, AEV?

Since AEV doesn't sell coils by themselves. Here you go

- synergy 3" coils or 4" front and 3" rear (no rake)
$400
- AEV or Rancho front drop brackets
$100
- TF rear axle side bracket (keep stock TB)
$100
- choice of rear CA's, Currie, MC, RK etc
$500
- choice if shocks, 5100's, 9000's, 2.0's etc
$350
- rear brake line drop brackets
$25
- rear longer sway bar links (rear to front or discos
$100
- bump stops
$100
- front adj track bar
$200

There's your AEV kit, and room to upgrade, adjustable, and retaining parts you already have.
Drive it around and get a feel for handling. You still should come in at less with/without a high steer kit.
$300 synergy kit is the same and 10x better IMO


Add high steer and you have a much better kit very close in price including rear arms.

Total $2200

I hope my price est/math is right lol

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