I have a 2007 Sahara that already had about a 4" suspension lift when I bought it a year ago. It always appeared that the rear driveshaft (which is factory) was tilted up higher than stock, but this morning when driving to work I heard a thump and pulled over. The front of the rear driveshaft by the transfer case had completely popped out of the yoke. The rubber boot covering that end is gone also.
Any advice would be helpful. What replacement driveshaft would be appropriate to replace it with? Can you lower the transfer case on the JK? What would be the best (and most reasonably priced) solution?
Thanks for your help. I'm not sure what large nut you are referring to. I'll attach a pic and hopefully that will help. It is a 2 door, and I don't have adjustable CA's.
Probably the C clip on the spline end in the joint came off. I just took my rear drive shaft Rezpa joint apart to grease it. Not much holding it together. I replaced my front with a JE Reel driveshaft.
Yes, I can feel the C clip inside the yoke just laying in there but it's alittle too big to fish out with my fingers. It must have popped off. Is it feasible to put the original driveshaft back in, or could more damage be done?
I'd buy a new rear DS, personally. 4" is a pretty high lift for a Wrangler; my guess is that your stock DS was laboring at an extreme angle since you bought it, and finally said no mas.
If it is a 2Dr you are at a point where the axle needs to be rotated to allow the pinion angle to be back to a stock angle. At the minimum you need a double cardan aftermarket driveshaft.
Reallistically, you need to see about correcting that pinion angle. The front probably needs attention too.
Check out the TeraFlex video about their driveshaft rebuilt kit. It shows how it comes apart. You may be able to install a new C clip and put it back together .
Hey guys, I am trying to pull the rear driveshaft off of my 2008 JKUR, I took out the eight bolts on the axle side and cannot get the damn thing to come off. looked inside and saw all the grease inside. Also, I am not in a shop, sort of in a gravel lot, haha. I am thinking about maybe gently moving it back and forth under power to try and get it to loosen up a bit, am I going to hurt it in any way doing this.
Am trying to figure out how to drive it around for just alittle with out the rear shaft on.
How do I get this thing to come out?? haha
GOT IT!! Thanks. Man are those things stuck in there though. Once it finally got started, it came right out. I was just being a wussy trying not to hurt something. haha
Uppers only
-Floor jack under Pinion holding -2°.
-Adjust upper arms to the mount holes (bolts should slide through easily)
- do not typing any bolts yet
Uppers and lowers
-Position jack under pinion Just enough to .take The load off the arms and remove the bolts
-Set lowers to desired lengths (match up perfectly)
-Don't tighten any bolt until all four arms are installed
Follow The same steps above to install the upper arms.
Re-check pinion angle verifying it is at -2°
Lastly torque all the bolts
Kj, are there two nuts on the transfer case? One for the front shaft and one on the rear. Think I remember hearing a pinion bearing nut and a output shaft nut.
Kjeeper, do you have to remove the rear track bar from the frame, sway bar link, brake hose bracket, rear shocks, and coil springs before replacing the upper CA? That's what my instructions tell me, but I can't see why all that is necessary.
Get the axle on stands.
Loosen lower CA bolts
Jack under pinion (-2°)
The key is to line the arms up to the mounts. The axle is already positioned because of the lowers.
Adjust all arms out so the bolts slide through the holes. You shouldn't have to force the axle for/aft. Once all 4 bolts are in drop the jack and check pinion,
Low - adjust arms out 1 turn
High - adjust arms in 1 turn
With the RK arms. Bolted up, you can turn the center tube to even the threads side to side.
Check pinion again
If OK proceed to torque all jam nuts and CA bolts to 125
Get the axle on stands.
Loosen lower CA bolts
Jack under pinion (-2°)
The key is to line the arms up to the mounts. The axle is already positioned because of the lowers.
Adjust all arms out so the bolts slide through the holes. You shouldn't have to force the axle for/aft. Once all 4 bolts are in drop the jack and check pinion,
Low - adjust arms out 1 turn
High - adjust arms in 1 turn
With the RK arms. Bolted up, you can turn the center tube to even the threads side to side.
Check pinion again
If OK proceed to torque all jam nuts and CA bolts to 125
I got the driveshaft replaced today and everything went pretty smooth. Tomorrow I'll do the upper CA's. Do you remember when you did your CA's, did you put the ratchet on the bolt heads to turn them loose, and did you try to get back around and turn the nut? Turn they turn with a ratchet, or did you need an impact?
A question about the fluid level after doing this. Sense the pinion is being raised will there need to be more oil needed to be added to insure the pinion bearings are getting enough oil?
kjeeper10 I do believe you are a very knowledgeable person and a great asset to this forum. Thank you :worthy:
One way is by jacking the rear end up as high as the jack allows. Either that or a different cover with higher fill hole.
Good question .... Thanks man
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