Got it regeared from 3.21 to 4.56 with a limited-slip diff in the rear on Feb 15th. Used a ProCal to update the computer same day. (Love the 4.56s btw)
Now the problem: Accelerating through medium-sharp Left-hand turns triggers the ESC to kick in and kill my throttle. Haven't been able to make it happen on right-hand turns.
Think a left turn at a red-light, not really that sharp at all. I have to get off the throttle entirely AND straighten out before it will give me power back. Hitting the ESC Off button will prevent the problem but I don't see that as a valid long-term solution.
The shop told me that the Jeep's computer will need to re-learn how everything responds to the new gears but I'd buy that more if it were an automatic.
I'm basically looking for some verification that the computer will correct itself over time from someone whose had this experience or has been able to solve the problem another way. Thanks for the help!
No, I don't see it learning anything over time. It reads speed sensors and accelerometers to determine pitch/yaw. These are what the computer knows and is programmed to read and respond to. It does not have artificial intelligence to learn new algorithms or create new lines of code.
What differential specifically did you have installed?
You're right, it definitely won't write new lines of code, but it does save new values for managing the engine and on an automatic will also adjust shift points based on normalized values from all of the sensors. The "learning" I'm referring to is it's ability to save normalized values from the sensors over time.
What I'm thinking is happening (if it's not a bad sensor) is that the computer is reading the vehicle entering a turn and expecting one wheel to spin more on one side than it's reading, but because the LSD is forcing more even distribution, it thinks there is a problem and kills the throttle to try and correct it. I was hoping that eventually the computer will save the new rotation numbers and it would stop triggering the ESC.
I bet they damaged a sensor or wiring during the install. I have to make an appointment today. Out of the blue Friday I started getting the ESC light (with accompanying braking) and then the ABS comes on.
Make sure your steering wheel is centered and draglink is properly tightened. This can cause the issue you describe if it's off even just a little bit. Also make sure your Axle is centered (aka you are saying it only happens on left turns) and track bar and control arms are properly torqued/tight - if they aren't they may be throwing a wheel off just enough to trigger it.
And could be that one of the wheel sensors got tugged while they were doing the axle or just coincidence that happened at the same time it randomly went.
I'll double check everything is torqued when I get home and everything appears lined up. If it's not I'll schedule something with the shop and have them do it since they gave me a warranty. Any way to specifically check for a bad sensor?
I bet they damaged a sensor or wiring during the install. I have to make an appointment today. Out of the blue Friday I started getting the ESC light (with accompanying braking) and then the ABS comes on.
Make sure your steering wheel is centered and draglink is properly tightened. This can cause the issue you describe if it's off even just a little bit. Also make sure your Axle is centered (aka you are saying it only happens on left turns) and track bar and control arms are properly torqued/tight - if they aren't they may be throwing a wheel off just enough to trigger it.
And could be that one of the wheel sensors got tugged while they were doing the axle or just coincidence that happened at the same time it randomly went.
Because it ONLY does it when turning one direction the rules out wheel speed sensor. A bad sensor would do it all the time.
I will agree that it is steering wheel centering.. Is the correct tire size programmed in as well.
Will do. I got 2 beers riding on this now. I've had problems in the past with the ESC and ABS. Those sensors have hardly enough wire to reach the axel on a full flex so I've yanked one and snapped another. From what I hear, we're not the only ones.
^ If that was the case, why Saharas can run LSD only in the rear ? a detroit truetrac diff is open in normal mode. i'd blame more geometry like front or rear TB bolts not being torqued down to specs and causing the frame to move around corners or something alike being out specs.
This thread interests me since I am about to regear my '13 AT with front and rear truetracs but this is the first I have heard of this issue with the esc. Looked further into it and 2 things just aren't adding up:
1. Lots of people are praising the dual truetrac functionality with bld, many of whom are 12+ automatics. It makes sense that an lsd would not have the same issues as a soft locker like a detroit or yukon grizzly due to how they function. Any threads out there specific to rear truetrac causing ATs to go into limp mode on tight turns?
I've seen these issues in a manual trans 12+, though admittedly with a Detroit, not with a true trac. If it isn't the steering, alignment is good, and the only changes are gears and the true trac, what's left?
Since the vehicle in question is lifted, there are also more potential variables. I've even seen bad control arm bushings cause this problem.
Hope the op tracks it down and it doesn't cost a ton of $ to find.
I am having a similar symptoms as the OP. Mostly at higher speeds 50mph and higher on twisty roads I can't accelerate because ESC cuts fuel flow (squigly lines flash). I have a 2015 JKU Sport auto trans, with 2" Mopar lift, Core44 built axles front and back with 4:56 gears and Auburn Ected Max diff's that are clutch style LSD on the road and electric locker off road plus 35"x12.5" tires on 17x9 rims with 4.5" back space. Custom shop monitored wheel sensors in real-time, they seem to be ok.
The vehicle originally had 3:21 gears from the factory.
I bought adjustable track bars to center the axles, got the whole thing aligned by a shop recommended by they jeep shop I originally took it to. Everything is aligned, thrust angles are centered, suspension and control arms where inspected and everything came out good and it's still doing it.
I don't see unplugging the sensors or getting a Diablo tuner to turn off the ESC as a viable solution because those things always have other unforeseen consequences.
Even though it's a manual, and all of the documented issues I've found online have had to do with automatics, I can't seem to come up with any other options. I'm going to schedule something with my shop and take out the tru trac. I'll update again when that's done.
I have a 2014 Auto and I regeared to 4.56 with Trutracs in front and rear. I have not had any issues with the ESC activated. I also used a Procal to adjust for the gears.
As others said earlier maybe its a bad sensor.
2012s have had plenty of problems with the computers and there's plenty of evidence all over the internet of people having problems with the ABS and traction control. I've had ABS problems in the past as well.
Locker has been swapped out from a Detroit TruTrac to an Eaton ELocker. Benefit being that the ELocker is fully open when the switch is not flipped or fully locked when it is. This has fixed the problem. Left turns no longer trigger the ABS sensors when the ELocker is engaged or disengaged.
Thus my tale and troubles finally come to an end. Thank you all for the suggestions. I still don't know why my Jeeps computer hated the Detroit TruTrac so much and I wish I had some other information for you all. Good luck and happy off-roading.
Very strange, I have a 2014 auto with 3" lift, 4.56 and f&r truetracs. Haven't had a single problem the last 2 years.
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