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Old 04-27-2014, 05:26 PM   #1
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Regearing to 4.56

Planning to regear to 4.56 from 3.21 to get ready for my 35s and had a quick question about lockers..

I have a 2014 JKU

I went on 4wheelparts and just looking at some prices but not sure which locker would be the one for my dana 44 rear there are so many options could someone help me out with a link ....I just want to get some prices so I can start planning for all these mods this year...thanks
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:51 PM   #2
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:57 PM   #3
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thanks for taking time to give me those links will probably go with the arb lockers...thanks a bunch for the links
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Old 04-27-2014, 06:04 PM   #4
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I went with OX lockers and electric actuators.
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Old 04-27-2014, 06:45 PM   #5
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Let me know if you would like pricing on lockers. Here is a link to my gear sets.

Yukon Gear Packages with Master Install Kits - RockRaider Off-road

-Dan
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Old 04-27-2014, 07:33 PM   #6
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I regeard my 13 jku a year ago from 3:21's to 4:56's and love it. Also put ARB locker in the rear ( RD-1117 ) if you leave the front diff open you will need a new carrier for the 4:56 gears. ( 3:73 and down means lower gear but higher numerically, ie- 4:56 , 4:88 , 5:13 ) jeep on...
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkuone View Post
I regeard my 13 jku a year ago from 3:21's to 4:56's and love it. Also put ARB locker in the rear ( RD-1117 ) if you leave the front diff open you will need a new carrier for the 4:56 gears. ( 3:73 and down means lower gear but higher numerically, ie- 4:56 , 4:88 , 5:13 ) jeep on...
This. 3.21s to 4.56s; ARB in the rear. Love the 4.56s. That was about a year ago. Just S& G'ed the front; added RCV shafts and Yukon locker (for the larger spline) upfront.
You'll find there is very little difference from manufacturer to manufacturer as far as the gears go. According to the interweb they basically come from the same factory. So from there its a matter of "other" parts- locker, master install kits, bearings, carrier etc.
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkuone View Post
I regeard my 13 jku a year ago from 3:21's to 4:56's and love it. Also put ARB locker in the rear ( RD-1117 ) if you leave the front diff open you will need a new carrier for the 4:56 gears. ( 3:73 and down means lower gear but higher numerically, ie- 4:56 , 4:88 , 5:13 ) jeep on...
X2 on this. If you have a D30 up front I would just re-gear and leave it open. Second I would recommend going with chromoly front axle shaves with full c clips. Putting a RCV axle will make your weakest link you ring and pinion which is not what you want to break on the trail.

R/
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:05 AM   #9
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I have heard of so many chromoly shafts breaking- are they really stronger than stock? Per RCV, the shaft will break before the R&P, but I am not sure since I simply don't know enough about breakages. I am running stock shafts but I guess I need to carry extra u-joints and ears? 4.56 is the best for 35s. I am still running 4.10s and will reevaluate next year or maybe keep it this way till the warranty period is over.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:13 AM   #10
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I'm running 4.10's with 35s and although its a little sluggish, it is definitely manageable and not worth all the cash just going to a 4.56 ratio. I also have the 6 speed, not sure about your case.

Going from 3.21 to 4.56 will be great, but if you plan on stepping it up in the future to 37s consider going to 4.88. Although I'm not sure about 37s on a D30.

Anyways, don't rush it and think about your future build, buy right or buy twice.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:57 AM   #11
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Yeah, I would say that going from 4.10 to 4.56 is a waste of money. 4.10's are good highway gears for 35's. You sacrifice a little crawling ability but not much.

Going from 3.21 to 4.56 was the perfect solution for me and my 35's. Unless I get in a wreck, I'll probably go through a couple sets of 35's before I take my build to 40's where I need bigger axles that will have different gears.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derf View Post
Yeah, I would say that going from 4.10 to 4.56 is a waste of money. 4.10's are good highway gears for 35's. You sacrifice a little crawling ability but not much.

Going from 3.21 to 4.56 was the perfect solution for me and my 35's. Unless I get in a wreck, I'll probably go through a couple sets of 35's before I take my build to 40's where I need bigger axles that will have different gears.
That's the spirit!
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:41 PM   #13
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2014 JK 2 Dr. Auto - 35" tires - 4" lift - I went from 3.21 to 4.88 with ARB air lockers front/rear. Works great. 2800 RPM @ 65MPH.
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:03 PM   #14
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Sorry to go a little sideways but does anyone use an Eaton Trutrac LSD in the front? I was thinking of 4.56 with trutrac front and rear. Not a hard wheeler but still would like some capacity to not slip.
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:19 PM   #15
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A few guys run Truetracs F/R and love it. You know it will never be fully locked, but it is a pretty aggressive LSD.

Let me know if you want a set and gears.

Thanks
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Ed View Post
Sorry to go a little sideways but does anyone use an Eaton Trutrac LSD in the front? I was thinking of 4.56 with trutrac front and rear. Not a hard wheeler but still would like some capacity to not slip.
They're a good less expensive compromise for a daily driver that sees occasional mild to moderate off road use. A lot of people use them and love them.

They aren't full lockers but they're better than an open differential by far.
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:10 AM   #17
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cant go wrong with the ARB, it will be the last part to ever break.

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