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Old 03-26-2014, 07:13 PM   #1
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removing draglink from pitman arm

What is the best way to remove it without damaging the pitman arm or the draglink. I just installed the synergy draglink and realized I need to take this end off again to lengthen it so I can straighten the steering wheel (I have reached the end of the allowable threads on the other end). I wasn't worried about the OEM one but I would rather not damage the threads or any other part now. It is amazing (and annoying) how stuck it became so quickly.

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Old 03-26-2014, 07:15 PM   #2
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The oem is a pain in the ass. The new TRE should come out easier. I use a pickle fork or TRE tool from HF.

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Old 03-26-2014, 08:06 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
The oem is a pain in the ass. The new TRE should come out easier. I use a pickle fork or TRE tool from HF.
With your advise I used the pickle fork from my local AutoZone a couple weeks ago. One of those tools I bought and will never use again but it was well worth the $15. But it is a must have tool on the trail. One of those you wish you would have brought kinda tools that you normally leave at home.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:09 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Apexeater View Post
What is the best way to remove it without damaging the pitman arm or the draglink. I just installed the synergy draglink and realized I need to take this end off again to lengthen it so I can straighten the steering wheel (I have reached the end of the allowable threads on the other end). I wasn't worried about the OEM one but I would rather not damage the threads or any other part now. It is amazing (and annoying) how stuck it became so quickly.
Just curious what size wheels are you running? I installed the Synergy Drag Link a couple weeks ago and my tie rod end was touching my stock 17" wheel.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:43 PM   #5
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Yea, you need a min 4.5 back spacing with the larger bodied Synergy joints.
I thought the same but ended up using the tool again on Sueby's JK.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:18 PM   #6
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use a pitman arm puller. so it doesn't damage the boot.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:26 PM   #7
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use a pitman arm puller. so it doesn't damage the boot.
You mean a TRE puller ? I tried. No room @ the pitman arm
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:54 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Yeti83 View Post
Just curious what size wheels are you running? I installed the Synergy Drag Link a couple weeks ago and my tie rod end was touching my stock 17" wheel.
As mentioned, I have 17" rims with 4.5" back spacing

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With your advise I used the pickle fork from my local AutoZone a couple weeks ago. One of those tools I bought and will never use again but it was well worth the $15. But it is a must have tool on the trail. One of those you wish you would have brought kinda tools that you normally leave at home.
That is what i used. I forgot about that suggestion earlier. I did put a small hole in the boot but it is off.

Now for the next issue. I have tightened the jam nut but there seems to be a fair amount of rotation occurring between the adjustment sleeve and the passenger side tre. Any way to stop this or is it not a problem? It is enough that the draglink sags and won't stay horizontal.
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:15 PM   #9
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As mentioned, I have 17" rims with 4.5" back spacing



That is what i used. I forgot about that suggestion earlier. I did put a small hole in the boot but it is off.

Now for the next issue. I have tightened the jam nut but there seems to be a fair amount of rotation occurring between the adjustment sleeve and the passenger side tre. Any way to stop this or is it not a problem? It is enough that the draglink sags and won't stay horizontal.
I had the same problem. It took two people to position mine. Since I only had one hand at the time due to pins in my wrist. Im pretty sure the drag link has a left hand thread on one end and right hand on the other. This way you can make adjustments left and right by turning the bar. I had my friend hold the bar while I tightened the pitman arm side first. The I had to adjust the TRE on the knuckle side with a pair of channel lock pliers in the upright position and then locked the jam nut down. With the wheels straight I had my friend watch my steering wheel while I made my adjustments to correct my steering wheel center with wheels straight. Dont forget to tightend the small bolt that I guess keeps the jam nut from backing out.
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:22 PM   #10
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Yea, you need a min 4.5 back spacing with the larger bodied Synergy joints.
I thought the same but ended up using the tool again on Sueby's JK.
Im still confused about the back spacing. My Jeep has stickers on the inside door frame reading 16" wheels but they have 17" wheels. I bought my jeep used and apparently the previous owner upgraded to larger wheels. Yes they are stock JK wheels. So I guess I have 17" wheels that do not have 4.5 back spacing? I ended up purchasing some cheap wheel spacers from autozone to get me by until I get new ones. My TRE was touching the inside of the wheel. You told me that I need spacers. Just want to clarify why some people are running the 17" wheels and have clearance and I dont?
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:19 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You mean a TRE puller ? I tried. No room @ the pitman arm
Some gear pullers have wider, longer, more or thinner arms that will fit in tight places.
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:38 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Yeti83 View Post
I had the same problem. It took two people to position mine. Since I only had one hand at the time due to pins in my wrist. Im pretty sure the drag link has a left hand thread on one end and right hand on the other. This way you can make adjustments left and right by turning the bar. I had my friend hold the bar while I tightened the pitman arm side first. The I had to adjust the TRE on the knuckle side with a pair of channel lock pliers in the upright position and then locked the jam nut down. With the wheels straight I had my friend watch my steering wheel while I made my adjustments to correct my steering wheel center with wheels straight. Dont forget to tightend the small bolt that I guess keeps the jam nut from backing out.
I am not quite following you. The silver adjustment nut is what allows adjustment, if I tighten that down won't the steering wheel be misaligned? I have been rotating that that to correct the steering wheel.

Quote:
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Im still confused about the back spacing. My Jeep has stickers on the inside door frame reading 16" wheels but they have 17" wheels. I bought my jeep used and apparently the previous owner upgraded to larger wheels. Yes they are stock JK wheels. So I guess I have 17" wheels that do not have 4.5 back spacing? I ended up purchasing some cheap wheel spacers from autozone to get me by until I get new ones. My TRE was touching the inside of the wheel. You told me that I need spacers. Just want to clarify why some people are running the 17" wheels and have clearance and I dont?
A picture is better than me explaining it so here is a link to help: Largest tire on stock JK? Here's your answer!
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:41 AM   #13
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I was able to position mine right. It's just a matter of tightening the jam nuts/pinch sleeve bolts in a certain order.

Don't worry about steering center yet. Get the upper centered and tightened then adjust steering and tighten lower bolt.
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:41 AM   #14
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I thought the same but ended up using the tool again on Sueby's JK.
And may again!
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:48 AM   #15
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And may again!
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