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Old 11-12-2013, 09:25 PM   #1
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Replacing Stock Skidplate Options

I'm hoping this thread will help those of us that have wheeled our Jeeps and bent up the stock skids. I'm confused on what the options are to replace some of the stock components with heavier duty options.

After my first trip to Moab my undercarriage looks like this:







Rather than cover up the existing damage and since I live in the snow belt (rust). What options do I have on replacing that crossmember and my gas tank skid with heavier duty versions? I'd also like to replace the whole transmission crossmember with something more heavy duty but may be inclined to just cover that one up.

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Old 11-12-2013, 11:11 PM   #2
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Oh that's beautiful

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Old 11-13-2013, 08:55 AM   #3
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There are a whole range of options. Check out quadratec.com, they carry a lot of brands and different types of skid plates. Choose the one you like, google it, and see if you can't find someone that has it cheaper, as well as checking the vendors list.
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Old 11-13-2013, 10:17 AM   #4
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My 2cents is to focus on the most vulnerable parts first. Looks like an automatic? The plastic trans pan and cooler lines are dangerously exposed. That's what I focused on first. I went with Evo protek but there are other options too. The gas tank skid might look bad but it will hold up to some abuse. For the other honor marks I recommend getting some rattle can black paint and cleaning up the rust a paint them.
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Old 11-13-2013, 10:26 AM   #5
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My 2cents is to focus on the most vulnerable parts first. Looks like an automatic? The plastic trans pan and cooler lines are dangerously exposed. That's what I focused on first. I went with Evo protek but there are other options too. The gas tank skid might look bad but it will hold up to some abuse. For the other honor marks I recommend getting some rattle can black paint and cleaning up the rust a paint them.
Agreed. I'd do engine and trans skid and paint the others for now. Unless you want to replace everything at once then that would be even better
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Old 11-13-2013, 10:32 AM   #6
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Agreed. I'd do engine and trans skid and paint the others for now. Unless you want to replace everything at once then that would be even better
x2 ^^ add the EVAP skid to the list. lots of companies manufacture skid systems, river raider comes to mind, JCR, rock hard, EVO, shop around - see what kind of deals can be had... tis the season after all!

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Old 11-13-2013, 10:46 AM   #7
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what they said.
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:34 AM   #8
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I have tried river raider and wouldn't recommend them at all.. Mine is a 500.00 pos sitting in the shed
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:48 AM   #9
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I have tried river raider and wouldn't recommend them at all.. Mine is a 500.00 pos sitting in the shed
As also being in the skid market, whats wrong with them?
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Old 11-13-2013, 12:00 PM   #10
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I have tried river raider and wouldn't recommend them at all.. Mine is a 500.00 pos sitting in the shed
This is why I started the thread, real life feedback on the skids. I'm a good forum member 99.9% of the time and search for my answer but I want straight up real world experience with them.

Everything I'm reading on skids (Rock Hard, River Raider, EVO) looks like it bolts over the existing puny parts. Other than the Poison Spyder Transmission Cross Member that actually replaces the original. I would rather not leave the factory skids in place as they are now bent (parts fitting over oir to them may not fit) and I don't want rust issues in the future.
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Old 11-13-2013, 12:00 PM   #11
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As also being in the skid market, whats wrong with them?
Well it bolts to the motor mount and there is a spacer on the ds so when you put the nut on only half the nut fits on the bolt.
On the passenger side the bolts that hold the bracket to the skid hit the trans cooling lines and rattle the hole time .. And when you change the oil it dosent go out the hole it pours on the skid
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Old 11-13-2013, 04:20 PM   #12
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This is why I started the thread, real life feedback on the skids. I'm a good forum member 99.9% of the time and search for my answer but I want straight up real world experience with them.

Everything I'm reading on skids (Rock Hard, River Raider, EVO) looks like it bolts over the existing puny parts. Other than the Poison Spyder Transmission Cross Member that actually replaces the original. I would rather not leave the factory skids in place as they are now bent (parts fitting over oir to them may not fit) and I don't want rust issues in the future.
The gas tank skid & oil pan skid (I think) are the only ones that would bolt over the stock one; the bolts are a PITA to get to on the gas tank. Removing an oil pan.....nasty. Doesn't mean you can't remove the stock one. But skids in other locations will replace your stock ones or cover more area. I
The tranny cross member is also available through PolyPerformance. I don't think many people mangle this so its tough to find- and sold separately. (Consider me mangled).
I have the Off Road Evo tranny skid + control skid/sliders + shock mount skids + diff sliders. My tranny skid rattles- but this is due to (mangling) and having a 3"+ lift on a 2 door. Common problem. Soon to be solved by replacing my driveshaft. Looks like your a JKU so this shouldn't affect you.
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Old 11-13-2013, 04:25 PM   #13
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i haven't heard anything bad about JCRs skids. my buddy has their engine and exhaust skids... and he's beat on them a bit.
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:55 AM   #14
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I just received my JCR engine skid from krawl offroad. It is pretty stout. Weighs around 70 lbs. I'll be painting and installing tomorrow. So far I'm happy with the build quality. I'll let you know how install goes. Seems pretty straight forward though.
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Old 11-14-2013, 01:58 PM   #15
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Check out the Nemisis skid plate system. Not cheep but light weight. Includes engine and transmission, fuel tank and cross member. Don't have one, yet but will be getting one in the new year.
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Old 11-14-2013, 02:01 PM   #16
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I just received my JCR engine skid from krawl offroad. It is pretty stout. Weighs around 70 lbs. I'll be painting and installing tomorrow. So far I'm happy with the build quality. I'll let you know how install goes. Seems pretty straight forward though.
yeah, JCRs installation instructions seem pretty to the point. i was looking at their skids again today.
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Old 11-15-2013, 04:35 AM   #17
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I have the river raider full set on my 13 & am very happy with it. The only stock skid left on is the gas tank, but you can remove it if you want. The thing is the stock skid actually holds the gas tank up so it's kind of easier to leave it. The only issue I had was the evap skid needed to be modified a bit, we moved it over a tiny bit. I use a fumoto valve so oil changes are not an issue. We wrapped the cooler lines in a bit of rubber hose so they don't rub, they looked a little close & we didnt want to take the chance, I'm not sure if it would have ever been an issue or not.
The set is big & beefy, its surely done its job & I have no complaints. The pic is when they were on my 12, my 13 has exhaust spacers & a 3.5 lift & thats the only difference. Click image for larger version

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Old 11-15-2013, 04:59 AM   #18
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For the front skid plate, I'm an AEV fan. I slid and dropped about a foot onto a limestone block. The skid plate that came with the Moab did it's job.
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:04 AM   #19
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I would rather not leave the factory skids in place as they are now bent (parts fitting over oir to them may not fit) and I don't want rust issues in the future.
Check out the TnTcustoms.com fully belly armor. They make an all aluminum version that won't rust and is stout enough for a heavy 4 door to pivot on. Bring the checkbook though.
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Old 11-15-2013, 03:19 PM   #20
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Just got done painting and installing JCR engine skid. The install went well. No problems doing it by myself on my back in the driveway. The instructions were very straight forward.



The oil pan drain bolt is offset from the opening in the skid but still easy access.



Plenty of clearance between bracket and driveshaft.



A good 2-3" of clearance between engine and skid. Have to have a hell of a hit to knock the skid into the engine. Overall I'm very happy and will be looking at using more of JCR's skids to replace the other stock ones.
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Old 11-15-2013, 03:26 PM   #21
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Just got done painting and installing JCR engine skid. The install went well. No problems doing it by myself on my back in the driveway. The instructions were very straight forward. The oil pan drain bolt is offset from the opening in the skid but still easy access. Plenty of clearance between bracket and driveshaft. A good 2-3" of clearance between engine and skid. Have to have a hell of a hit to knock the skid into the engine. Overall I'm very happy and will be looking at using more of JCR's skids to replace the other stock ones.
How is the passenger side dose it clear the trans cooling lines? I looked at the online after I read your post and looks like a easy install with no drilling. Thanks for the update on the instal
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Old 11-15-2013, 03:45 PM   #22
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Yea the passenger side has clearance to use a wrench and tighten the bolts without hitting or snagging any lines. The bracket also stays clear. I took the jeep for a drive and no rattling noises or vibration noises. Everything fits tight without resting or laying against anything. I also recommend a second set of hands. I was able to do it myself but installing washers and nuts while supporting brackets and skid can be a pain by yourself but it is doable. I even used my chin at one point to help hold skid up while installing washers.
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Old 11-15-2013, 04:30 PM   #23
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Yea the passenger side has clearance to use a wrench and tighten the bolts without hitting or snagging any lines. The bracket also stays clear. I took the jeep for a drive and no rattling noises or vibration noises. Everything fits tight without resting or laying against anything. I also recommend a second set of hands. I was able to do it myself but installing washers and nuts while supporting brackets and skid can be a pain by yourself but it is doable. I even used my chin at one point to help hold skid up while installing washers.
Good thanks I will add that to my long list of parts I have !!!
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Old 11-15-2013, 05:20 PM   #24
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No problem. I went through Jason at krawl offroad. Has a discount for forum members.
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Old 11-15-2013, 07:57 PM   #25
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The EVO skids are my personal pick. Also, they replace the transmission crossmember (the thin one, not the fat one the transfer case skid bolts to) and protects the transmission and the oil pan. You can replace your fuel skid since you beat it to hell. I wouldn't bother with anything else, but if you must, do the evap skid too. Personally I'd stay away from River Raider. Ive seen them damage stock components, oil changes will make you want to gouge your eyes out, and their customer service is marginal at best. There are plenty of good products on the market. The EVO skids work very well, they are made well with perfect fitment, and they are not expensive. Companies charging $1000+ for skids are smoking the good kind of crack.... (except for nemesis.)
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:32 PM   #26
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Poison Spider makes an excellent crossmember.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:36 AM   #27
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here is my engine/gear armor
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