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Rubicon Front Dana 44 Inner Seal Replacement

16K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  kjeeper10 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,
Got my Synergy ball-joints and factory Spicer axle u-joints installed last week on my 2010 JKUR with 110k miles. Well, the driver's side axle seal started leaking yesterday, I had a bad feeling I should have had them replaced also. Well, I've already got the factory inner seals ordered and I'm hoping they will arrive Tuesday or Wednesday since I have a road trip on the 4th. I've also got 2 qts of 75w140 Mopar diff fluid and a Lubelocker seal ready. I need to purchase the axle nut socket yet, what size socket do I need to remove/replace the axle nut? Reason I'm asking is that I've read 32mm and 35mm, can anyone confirm? Also, any pointers for the entire job?

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
Just a heads up for anyone attempting to replace their D44 Rubicon inner seals. It took about 4 hours because I had a couple of snags. First, I couldn't remove the intermediate locker connector because the intermediate connector was stuck in the differential and brittle, it ended up shattering in pieces. Have one on hand, PN# 68003570AA, $20. Then removing the carrier bolts, the actuator bracket got mangled up, PN# 68003568AA, $4. Both are factory Mopar parts.
 
#5 · (Edited)
In the least two weeks, I've noticed a wiggle in the wheels right at 50mph up to 55mph. I'm at just 43K miles on this 13' JK. From what I've been searching throng on hear with ball joints & 35" tires, might be a little lucky I've gotten as many miles as I have out of the OEMs.

Looked at some videos on testing for ball joint play and have confirmed I've got it. Also somewhere in the last 3500 miles, I've noticed what looks to be a drivers side front seal leak. Minimal amount of oil, but it's there.

Still under warranty and thinking about having the dealership garage handle the front axle leak but assume they'll only take care of the drivers side.

And I guess thats my question - if I were to try to do this myself, would you all suggest taking care of both of inner seals while taking care of the ball joints at the same time?

I haven't yet gone through previous posts looking for more info on how to tackle the inner seals myself, but feel confident on handling the ball joints.

Any suggestions, pointers or advice would be appreciated. I'm going to reach out to rgaba in a PM since it feels he tackled exactly what I think I need to do.
 
#6 · (Edited)
If you were to do it yourself, replace both sides since you're already in there. I followed this YouTube video. It's not exactly the same but it's close enough. You'll have to tackle to connector and bracket issue I mentioned. Take a picture of the position of the bracket also before dis-assembly. I also used a LubeLocker seal. Most importantly, take special care in re-inserting the axles into the new seals to prevent tearing the new seals. The axles should have two plastics guides already installed to help with the insertion. This is were a second person helps. If I were in your shoes, I would let the dealer replace under warranty since they will have all of the proper parts tools and there wouldn't be any charge to you. Mine was out of warranty because of mileage and had no choice but to DIY or pay someone to do it.

DIY How To Install Inner Axle Seals - YouTube

Dana 44 Axle Seal Replacement
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the tip Pete :) I've got to start doing that more often - for some reason I go to the one bookmarked spot I've got and just order w/o comparing. Who knows what I could've saved myself by now.

Another question - looks like the right press and adapters is the key to helping make this all go smooth. I couldn't get myself to buy the suggested OTC or Miller equipment suggested in the Synergy instructions. The Miller press itself was close to $300 (unless I looked at the wrong tool). I've used the local AutoZone a couple times in the past to rent equipment but my experience & luck had me making a bunch of trips to get everything right. If I had more knowledge before I left the store each time, I'm sure I could have saved myself that hassle.

I ordered the Performance Tools kit on QTec - hoping the adapters I need all come in that kit. Any thoughts/suggestions?
 
#12 ·
Rent one ..
If you google JK ball joint install. I've seen people use a piece of pipe cut at a angle.
This is the most important piece you need. The kit I rented was missing it. We made do .. Can't remember what we did, but it worked.

We do have a ball joint write up on here, check it out.

-you will need a good 12 point closed end wrench. I used along with a hammer to crack the 3 hub bolts on each side.
-As mentioned in my previous thread. The 21 mm head brake bolt works perfect to pop the hubs out.
-Wire brush the ends of the hub bolts sticking out. You don't want to drag the Rust into the threads.
-DONT FORGET the 2 axle shaft guides if they don't stay on the axle. A shop damaged my seal leaving one in.
-The sensors sometimes are hard to pull out of the hub. Use a small pair of vise grips and wiggle it out pulling straight up. I tried prying it up with a screw driver and broke it. What a pain removing what was left.

Looking back --and after recently doing my seals -- it's not a hard job at all knowing these few tips/tricks.

I can't think of anything else right now. If I do I'll post,
 
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