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Old 12-22-2013, 11:21 AM   #1
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Safe to Drive w/ Front DS Disconnected from Differential?

I'm troubleshooting speed dependent vibrations. My jeep starts vibrating at 65 mph and it increases in intensity as the speed increases. If I slow down to below 65 the vibration goes away. Please note, this is not a death wobble. My suspension components have been checked and are tight.

Wheel balancing checks out. Alignment checks out. I'm thinking it might be drive line vibration. I'd like to see what happens with the front DS disconnected. Is it safe to drive at highway speeds with the front drive shaft disconnected from the differential but still connected at the transfer case?

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Old 12-22-2013, 11:23 AM   #2
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Yes sir.
I've had mine out a couple times. For the same reason and maintenance.

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Old 12-22-2013, 11:25 AM   #3
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Thanks very much. Extremely helpful as always!
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:41 AM   #4
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Just make sure it's secured tightly or removed totally.

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Old 12-22-2013, 12:15 PM   #5
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just make sure it's secured tightly or removed totally.

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^^^^^^^^^^^this!^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:04 PM   #6
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By secured tightly do you mean to check that the bolts at the transfer case are tight or do you recommend actually tying the drive shaft up and out of the way?

Thanks again guys.
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:05 PM   #7
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By secured tightly do you mean to check that the bolts at the transfer case are tight or do you recommend actually tying the drive shaft up and out of the way?

Thanks again guys.
TIE IT UP! Straps...chains...or both!

probably doesn't need to be said...but 2Hi ONLY!
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:06 PM   #8
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By secured tightly do you mean to check that the bolts at the transfer case are tight or do you recommend actually tying the drive shaft up and out of the way?

Thanks again guys.
Both, the last thing you need is to pole vault on your front drive shaft. Or rip the transfer case out of your Wrangler.
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:06 PM   #9
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By secured tightly do you mean to check that the bolts at the transfer case are tight or do you recommend actually tying the drive shaft up and out of the way? Thanks again guys.
Yes you don't want the DS to drop while driving
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:37 PM   #10
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Copy that!

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probably doesn't need to be said...but 2Hi ONLY!
Given that my last question was borderline boneheaded, I appreciate every bit of advice. 2Hi only. Check!
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:49 PM   #11
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Guess assuming the obvious is wrong sometimes

That would not be good rofl
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:52 PM   #12
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When you are at speeds of 65, or higher, and the vibration is at it's worst, push in your clutch if manual, or put your trans in neutral if auto. If that eliminates most of the vibration, then it is probably driveline, input bearing, or output bearing related. If vibration remains, then hub bearing related.

Also do you feel any excessive vibration if you just rev up your engine sitting still? Could be engine related, balancer, or just something loose setting up a harmonic!

But at the speeds that you have described, my guess is drive line related!

Good Luck.....
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:45 PM   #13
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When you are at speeds of 65, or higher, and the vibration is at it's worst, push in your clutch if manual, or put your trans in neutral if auto. If that eliminates most of the vibration, then it is probably driveline, input bearing, or output bearing related. If vibration remains, then hub bearing related.

Also do you feel any excessive vibration if you just rev up your engine sitting still? Could be engine related, balancer, or just something loose setting up a harmonic!

But at the speeds that you have described, my guess is drive line related!

Good Luck.....
I do not feel any vibes revving the engine in park.

I think I'm missing something. I don't understand how shifting to neutral (mine is auto) at speed will change anything, especially if the issue is the front DS. It is just spinning passively from differential and is not engaged at all at the transfer case when the front wheels are rolling in 2Hi. This will be the same in neutral, won't it? The front DS would just keep spinning and vibrating.
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:10 PM   #14
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Yes, you are correct to a point. I was trying to help you isolate the difference, between drive line and other possible causes. This procedure will affect the rear drive line, where your vibration is most likely coming from. When you are applying torque through your power train and have a issue with drive line vibes, by removing the torque from the possible issue "drive line components" and allowing them to free wheel, will definitely reduce the vibration, providing that it is the cause.

I suggest that you give it a try, and see if it makes a difference!
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:12 PM   #15
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Yes, you are correct to a point. I was trying to help you isolate the difference, between drive line and other possible causes. This procedure will affect the rear drive line, where your vibration is most likely from. When you are applying torque through your power train and have a issue with drive line vibes, by removing the torque from the possible issue "drive line components" and allowing them to free wheel, will definitely reduce the vibration, providing that it is the cause.

I suggest that you give it a try, and see if it makes a difference!
Gotcha. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:15 PM   #16
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Gotcha. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:20 AM   #17
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it needs to be disconnected from the transfer case and the differential if youre going to disconnect it. otherwise, can cause transfer case to overheat just like if you tow with the back wheels down and front up.
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:51 AM   #18
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it needs to be disconnected from the transfer case and the differential if youre going to disconnect it. otherwise, can cause transfer case to overheat just like if you tow with the back wheels down and front up.
Why would this be ... Jus curious ?
I totally removed mine but read about others leaving the TC side in/tying it up securely.
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Old 12-26-2013, 10:05 AM   #19
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One thing to consider is that the driveshaft turns at at least 4 times the speed that the axles do (4.10 gears), or even 5 times the speed that the axles do (5.13 gears). So driveshaft vibrations will be a higher frequency vibration than axle or hub vibrations. Once you've tracked down a few vibrations you can pretty much tell what is vibrating based on the frequency. Once you know it is a driveline vibration, then disconnect the front driveshaft at the axle, tie it up, and go for a drive. You'll know instantly if it is the front driveshaft or the rear driveshaft.
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Old 12-26-2013, 10:08 AM   #20
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it needs to be disconnected from the transfer case and the differential if youre going to disconnect it. otherwise, can cause transfer case to overheat just like if you tow with the back wheels down and front up.
As far as the transfercase is concerned, there is no difference between disconnecting the front of the front driveshaft, and tieing it up, vs completely removing the front driveshaft. In either case, the front input shaft is not turning.

And don't tell Spintek, or any of the people that swapped in one ton axles with locking hubs that they're not supposed to drive the vehicle without the front transfer case input shaft turning. They probably don't want to hear that.
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Old 12-26-2013, 11:15 AM   #21
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As far as the transfercase is concerned, there is no difference between disconnecting the front of the front driveshaft, and tieing it up, vs completely removing the front driveshaft. In either case, the front input shaft is not turning. And don't tell Spintek, or any of the people that swapped in one ton axles with locking hubs that they're not supposed to drive the vehicle without the front transfer case input shaft turning. They probably don't want to hear that.
Good point actually.
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:58 PM   #22
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As far as the transfercase is concerned, there is no difference between disconnecting the front of the front driveshaft, and tieing it up, vs completely removing the front driveshaft. In either case, the front input shaft is not turning.

And don't tell Spintek, or any of the people that swapped in one ton axles with locking hubs that they're not supposed to drive the vehicle without the front transfer case input shaft turning. They probably don't want to hear that.
Then why can't i tow the vehicle with the back wheels on the ground and the front on a dolly?

Swapping in locking hubs is completely different. If you were to (and i dont reccomend this) hang under their trucks while they are driving 45 mph, you will find.....the driveshaft spinning. At a reduced speed, but still spinning.

When you disconnect the driveshaft and leave it connected to the transfercase, you are forcing the OUTPUT SHAFT (NOT INPUT SHAFT) to be *STOPPED*, it is never intended to be stopped while the jeep is in motion. Ever.


Go ahead, break your transfer case. I don't care.
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:05 PM   #23
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We discussed this in depth this summer, Towing my Jeep this thread may help.
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:54 PM   #24
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We discussed this in depth this summer, Towing my Jeep this thread may help.
I'm not saying you are wrong, and I understand what's being said. How the front still spins by means of VC. But what if held ?
Disconnecting the pinion end is done for a short period diagnosing front vibes, not towing 500-1000 miles. Big difference IMO
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Old 12-26-2013, 05:02 PM   #25
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Not really answering your question but had a similar problem and like yours everything checked out. I needed some new tires anyway and when I put the new tires on all the wobble/vibrations went away
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:16 PM   #26
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I'm not saying you are wrong, and I understand what's being said. How the front still spins by means of VC. But what if held ?
Disconnecting the pinion end is done for a short period diagnosing front vibes, not towing 500-1000 miles. Big difference IMO
Go ahead and try it. But the manual says not to everrrrr do it. Why would they say that?

Every automatic transmission powered 2 wheel drive rear wheel drive car i've ever had, which will not lubricate the transmission while towing unless on a roll back.....they always say you can tow under 30-45 mph for a "short distance". Why is that?
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:06 PM   #27
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or removed totally.

Happy holidays
I vote this one.

Hey, then you can go to 4Hi and 4Lo on asphat and not tear anything up
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:08 PM   #28
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TIE IT UP! Straps...chains...or both!

probably doesn't need to be said...but 2Hi ONLY!

If he removes it completely (Probably the better and safer option) He can go to 4Hi and 4Lo
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:10 PM   #29
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Oh!

And if you still ahve the vibration,
I would imagine that you could install the front drive shaft and COMPLETLY REMOVED the rear. Then youd have to drive around in 4Hi (But the Jeep would be Front Wheel Drive only) and maybe see if it vibrates. Make sure before you do it, but mechanically it seems like it should work oaky that way.
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:02 PM   #30
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If he removes it completely (Probably the better and safer option) He can go to 4Hi and 4Lo
4wh without the front shaft in. What's wrong here ?

Just remove the dam thing. I don't know who's right or wrong but why risk it?

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