School Me on Aftermarket Driveshafts - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 01-18-2014, 08:32 PM   #1
Jeeper
 
SuperDave07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Raeford/Ft. Bragg, NC
Posts: 18
School Me on Aftermarket Driveshafts

I’m at a point where I feel like aftermarket driveshafts need to be bumped up on the priority list for my JK. I’ve got a 2010 JK 2dr with RockKrawler’s 2.5” max travel lift and Pro Comp XTreme M/T 285/75/16 tires. Now I’m still new to Jeeps, I’ve only had my JK for about three months but after hearing a ticking/clicking sound about a month or so ago I started to investigate and underneath, I found what looks like grease slung up around where the front driveshaft flange meets and also at the rear driveshaft flange, even though the rubber boot doesn’t appear to be torn on either driveshaft. I just chalked it up to the fact that the RK lift usually nets around 3.5”-4” of actual lift on the 2dr along with the short wheelbase of the 2dr which must’ve prematurely worn them.

I am on a budget and can’t afford to replace both front and rear right now and I’m not really sure which one deserves attention first. I’ve read a few threads here stating that the front is usually what goes out first but the noise I mentioned earlier seems to be coming from the rear and also the rear driveshaft is much shorter which makes me think the rear should be replaced first. Like I said though, I’m new to this so I’m still learning and trying to figure things out. I’m also not sure whether I should go with a 1310 or 1350 series driveshaft as I have looked at four popular companies that I know of that deal with CV driveshafts for the JK: Adam’s driveshaft, Tom Woods, J.E. Reel, and Tatton’s driveshaft. Each of these companies seem to state different things as to whether to go with a 1310 or 1350, for instance, Tom Woods has a formula to calculate, others seem to just say “less than 6” lift and 38” tires, go with this one”. Which brings me to the next issue which is the fact that I plan to toss in a set of 3.5” RK springs later down the road along with a set of 35’s or possibly 37’s depending on how far along I am in strengthening my axles, regearing, blah blah blah.

I said all that to basically ask: 1) Given the situation, should I replace the front or rear first? 2) Should I go with a 1310 or 1350 series? 3) Which of the four companies I mentioned earlier should I throw my money at based on your own personal experiences? 4) If I plan to put taller springs and bigger tires on later like I intend to do, how will that affect the situation? What would your recommendations be given my plans to put 3.5” springs and at least 35” tires on later down the road?

__________________
-Dave
2010 JK Sport Natural Green Pearl
__________
/__/l,[____],
l---|---L -OlllllllO-
(o)_) (o)_)--o-)_)
SuperDave07 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 09:05 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
tab22092's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,383
Subscribed. Eager to learn about aftermarket drive shafts as well!

tab22092 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 09:18 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
txaggie09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Magnolia, TX
Posts: 64
I cant help with all of your questions but from my research, 1310 should be more than enough unless you're running a high hp V8 and a lot of gear reduction at the t-case (think atlas or similar). Going 1350 wont hurt anything other than your wallet though if you want some overkill.
If you see grease slung all over from your front drive shaft, i'd replace it first, but i'll let those more knowledgeable than myself answer that and the rest of your questions.

As far as companies, i havent heard anything bad about any of the companies you listed but I have seen more good things about Adams. I dont think you can go wrong with any of them.
__________________
2014 JKUR odered 12/12/13. Picked up: 1/27/14.. let the fun begin
Current daily driver/tow rig: 2011 GMC 2500HD, 6.6 duramax. Pretty far from stock
txaggie09 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 09:23 PM   #4
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
michiganadam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Niles, MI
Posts: 2,315
I had a pickup truck with a 351 that only had 1310s, and I'd floor it at every red light. I think you're fine with 1310. They're pretty beefy.

As far as I know, your choices are Tatton, Adams, and Woods and JE Reel.

I have a 2 inch lift and it killed my driveshafts!

I have a tatton on the front and a tatton that goes on the back that isnt installed yet.

Tatton comes with new yokes for everything except the front differential, it reuses that flange.

If you call Tatton, the owner answeres the phone.

If you want a tatton go on ebay and search for "convershion", he's the only person on earth that thinks it's spelled that way.

He can't spell very well but he makes a good driveshaft. LOL.
__________________
Everytime i have ever posted, its always bull that comes out of me
michiganadam is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 09:57 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
tab22092's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,383
So the difference is the thickness or strength im assuming? 1310 being lighter (not saying light) duty and the 1350 heavier. Also upon looking at adams shafts it gives you the options of solid spicer u joints?
tab22092 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 10:23 PM   #6
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 31,515
Most don't need 1350. 1310 is fine for the jk.
Adams is my choice but the price went up because they use non-greasable u-joints.
These are supposed to be stronger

Honestly, run the stocks until you see grease splatter. Aftermarket driveshafts have their quirks

#1 more susceptible to vibes/balance issues
#2 might require control arms for proper pinion angles. The front is a happy balance between caster and pinion. I've heard of guys with higher lifts running 3* caster because anything higher -vibrations.

I'm running a front Adams and anything over 4* I get vibes. Rear is surprisingly still stock and has about 20k with the lift.
__________________
2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler TR 2.5 coils/rear TB/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Teraflex monster TB/Synergy highsteer,tie rod, ball joints/Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/MC front SB links/Rancho geo brackets & shocks/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS=Frankinlift from hell.

Lifting your JK? Read this!!



Click HERE to become a WranglerForum Supporting Member!
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 10:25 PM   #7
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 31,515
OP = what is your caster angle up front ?
__________________
2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler TR 2.5 coils/rear TB/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Teraflex monster TB/Synergy highsteer,tie rod, ball joints/Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/MC front SB links/Rancho geo brackets & shocks/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS=Frankinlift from hell.

Lifting your JK? Read this!!



Click HERE to become a WranglerForum Supporting Member!
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 10:32 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
Tweak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Keller, TX
Posts: 1,867
if you arent on tons and 40's you are fine with a 1310. look at it this way, the biggest, baddest F350 you could find will have 1350's from the factory.

even if you do manage to break one, 1310's are cheap and plentiful.

a front stock shaft is almost guaranteed to go before the rear. driveline angle to the rear is a pretty straight shot. front, not so much.

just put a tom woods 1310 in my 2 door earlier today, couldnt be happier.
Tweak is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 10:43 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
SuperDave07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Raeford/Ft. Bragg, NC
Posts: 18
Well I'm definitely glad to hear that I should be perfectly fine with a 1310 series. Saves some money. As far as the caster angle, I honestly have no idea kjeeper, or really even know how to figure out what the angle is. I've definitely got grease splatter though, no doubt about that...

Front :



Rear :

__________________
-Dave
2010 JK Sport Natural Green Pearl
__________
/__/l,[____],
l---|---L -OlllllllO-
(o)_) (o)_)--o-)_)
SuperDave07 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 10:54 PM   #10
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 31,515
Don't drive it

Recommended, but you can get a close estimate yourself. By measuring pinion angle will tell you roughly where your caster is at. Easiest was to measure pinion, is off one of the two flat circles on each side of the diff. Using a angle or smart phone app stock is +2* or (88*) and caster is 4* Pinion goes up and caster goes down. (Or vise versa)

Are you running aftermarket control arms or any kind of caster correction ?
__________________
2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler TR 2.5 coils/rear TB/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Teraflex monster TB/Synergy highsteer,tie rod, ball joints/Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/MC front SB links/Rancho geo brackets & shocks/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS=Frankinlift from hell.

Lifting your JK? Read this!!



Click HERE to become a WranglerForum Supporting Member!
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 10:58 PM   #11
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
michiganadam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Niles, MI
Posts: 2,315
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Most don't need 1350. 1310 is fine for the jk.
Adams is my choice but the price went up because they use non-greasable u-joints.
These are supposed to be stronger
RIGHT THERE is enough reason for me to not buy that driveshaft.

And Tom Woods uses offbrand chinese u-joints, and costs more than tatton. Tatton uses Dana Spicer u-joints. Probably made in China by now, but it's an american name.

Greasable u-joints let you push the junk out of the joint with fresh grease. How much crap do you think gets in a u-joint from wheeling?

Sealed for life? So was that stock CV joint you destroyed. How'd that work for you?

Quote:
Honestly, run the stocks until you see grease splatter. Aftermarket driveshafts have their quirks

#1 more susceptible to vibes/balance issues
#2 might require control arms for proper pinion angles. The front is a happy balance between caster and pinion. I've heard of guys with higher lifts running 3* caster because anything higher -vibrations.

I'm running a front Adams and anything over 4* I get vibes. Rear is surprisingly still stock and has about 20k with the lift.
I agree. I get a front driveline vibration at exactly 53mph with my tatton driveshaft. I'm running stock control arms with a 2.5" lift. Works fine though.

I have a set of currie arms i'll be putting on the rear when I install the rear driveshaft. There is no toying around with rear pinion angle with these driveshafts. You have to tilt the pumpkin back.

You're never going to get a good pinion angle and caster in the front, and caster is more important generally. You can get an aftermarket axle housing ($$$$$$$) or cut off the Cs and reweld them (risky), but other than that, its not happening.
__________________
Everytime i have ever posted, its always bull that comes out of me
michiganadam is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 11:01 PM   #12
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 31,515
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
RIGHT THERE is enough reason for me to not buy that driveshaft. And Tom Woods uses offbrand chinese u-joints, and costs more than tatton. Tatton uses Dana Spicer u-joints. Probably made in China by now, but it's an american name. Greasable u-joints let you push the junk out of the joint with fresh grease. How much crap do you think gets in a u-joint from wheeling? Sealed for life? So was that stock CV joint you destroyed. How'd that work for you? I agree. I get a front driveline vibration at exactly 53mph with my tatton driveshaft. I'm running stock control arms with a 2.5" lift. Works fine though. I have a set of currie arms i'll be putting on the rear when I install the rear driveshaft. There is no toying around with rear pinion angle with these driveshafts. You have to tilt the pumpkin back. You're never going to get a good pinion angle and caster in the front, and caster is more important generally. You can get an aftermarket axle housing ($$$$$$$) or cut off the Cs and reweld them (risky), but other than that, its not happening.
/thread

I have a set of currie uppers too. Running it until it dies. Same guy has a rebuilt Tatton I might pick up. Or just throw in the stock back up I have
__________________
2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler TR 2.5 coils/rear TB/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Teraflex monster TB/Synergy highsteer,tie rod, ball joints/Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/MC front SB links/Rancho geo brackets & shocks/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS=Frankinlift from hell.

Lifting your JK? Read this!!



Click HERE to become a WranglerForum Supporting Member!
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 11:10 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
SuperDave07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Raeford/Ft. Bragg, NC
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Don't drive it

Recommended, but you can get a close estimate yourself. By measuring pinion angle will tell you roughly where your caster is at. Easiest was to measure pinion, is off one of the two flat circles on each side of the diff. Using a angle or smart phone app stock is +2* or (88*) and caster is 4* Pinion goes up and caster goes down. (Or vise versa)

Are you running aftermarket control arms or any kind of caster correction ?
The pictures probably look pretty extreme but about a month ago I had a guy at a local shop who took a grease gun with a needle fitting on the end of (looked like what you use to pump up a basketball) and he pumped grease into the front and rear DS so I imagine a lot of that is what's slung up under there. Regardless, it's definitely time for new ones lol. As far as the control arms, the RK lift came with adjustable LCA's for the front and rear but it appears that they haven't been adjusted out at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganadam View Post
RIGHT THERE is enough reason for me to not buy that driveshaft.

And Tom Woods uses offbrand chinese u-joints, and costs more than tatton. Tatton uses Dana Spicer u-joints. Probably made in China by now, but it's an american name.

Greasable u-joints let you push the junk out of the joint with fresh grease. How much crap do you think gets in a u-joint from wheeling?

Sealed for life? So was that stock CV joint you destroyed. How'd that work for you?


I agree. I get a front driveline vibration at exactly 53mph with my tatton driveshaft. I'm running stock control arms with a 2.5" lift. Works fine though.

I have a set of currie arms i'll be putting on the rear when I install the rear driveshaft. There is no toying around with rear pinion angle with these driveshafts. You have to tilt the pumpkin back.

You're never going to get a good pinion angle and caster in the front, and caster is more important generally. You can get an aftermarket axle housing ($$$$$$$) or cut off the Cs and reweld them (risky), but other than that, its not happening.
Yeah I was thinking either Adams or Tatton but I'd rather have a grease able u-joint if I'm spending my money which makes me lean more towards Tatton,, especially for the price on the ebay store you referenced (thanks for that btw).
__________________
-Dave
2010 JK Sport Natural Green Pearl
__________
/__/l,[____],
l---|---L -OlllllllO-
(o)_) (o)_)--o-)_)
SuperDave07 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-18-2014, 11:22 PM   #14
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 31,515
The front prob is adjusted for caster. It's only a small about so prob not noticeable from stock.

This is the problem I have on the RK kit w/ lowers only (esp with a 2 door)
To raise pinion, you would need to shorten the lowers. This is not typically done, because the axle will be pulled in a small amount.
Now, If you were to install their uppers. The lowers have to be replaced too (short)
(RK's rear set moves the axle back 1". Their uppers are designed to work only with the longer lowers)
I've seen RK mentioning shorting a set of uppers to work with your lowers.

Once the shafts are replaced. You might have to lower caster depending on lift height. The rear you will need to address pinion angle with CA's
__________________
2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler TR 2.5 coils/rear TB/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Teraflex monster TB/Synergy highsteer,tie rod, ball joints/Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/MC front SB links/Rancho geo brackets & shocks/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS=Frankinlift from hell.

Lifting your JK? Read this!!



Click HERE to become a WranglerForum Supporting Member!
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 12:34 AM   #15
Jeeper
 
spinlock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: 37.9° N, 121.7° W
Posts: 1,921
The 1350 has a higher torque rating which requires beefier joints. The extra "beef" in these joints tends to decrease max operating angle decreasing the benefits unless you really need the higher torque rating and cost.
__________________
"A man has got to know his limitations."
H. Callahan
spinlock is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 01:29 AM   #16
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Gunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Seal Beach
Posts: 6,418
I have 1350 spicer joints in my Tom Woods shafts.
Gunner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 07:26 AM   #17
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
texas05's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 179
I went with a Spicer equipped Coast 1310; Northridge sells them. Coast answers their phones and addressed all my installation questions. I have no idea personally how good the so called "perma lube" seals are on the Spicers. I will say I got a compliment from the shop that welded in my C gussets that it was a nice piece.

With mine I replaced the yokes but don't some bolt up to the stock flanges? What are the disadvantages and advantages of doing this?
__________________
2014 Billet JKUR
2014 Black JK

Build tread
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/20...ld-430178.html
texas05 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 10:31 AM   #18
Jeeper
 
TX Sasquatch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 507
A front drive shaft is the next item I will be buying. Probably within 30 days. I'm currently scooting around in a rear wheel drive only jeep because I've already pulled the front shaft out.

One thing I'm wondering, for a 1310 shaft, is the outer diameter of the shaft the same from all of these manufacturers? Clearance is one reason that I'm getting a new shaft after all.

Also, it appears that Tatton shafts on ebay are one size fits all, whereas Woods and Adams are specific to your measurements. Is that a factor worth considering?
__________________
'13 Commando Green JK Sport
TX Sasquatch is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 11:29 AM   #19
Jeeper
 
Tweak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Keller, TX
Posts: 1,867
Quote:
Originally Posted by TX Sasquatch View Post
A front drive shaft is the next item I will be buying. Probably within 30 days. I'm currently scooting around in a rear wheel drive only jeep because I've already pulled the front shaft out.

One thing I'm wondering, for a 1310 shaft, is the outer diameter of the shaft the same from all of these manufacturers? Clearance is one reason that I'm getting a new shaft after all.

Also, it appears that Tatton shafts on ebay are one size fits all, whereas Woods and Adams are specific to your measurements. Is that a factor worth considering?
unless you have done some serious modifications the length wont vary. I bought my tom woods on quadratec. just selected the correct year group and it fits just fine.
Tweak is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 11:42 AM   #20
Jeeper
 
COStrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,693
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
The 1350 has a higher torque rating which requires beefier joints. The extra "beef" in these joints tends to decrease max operating angle decreasing the benefits unless you really need the higher torque rating and cost.
1350 is less ideal due to additional strength. You want a fuse in the drivetrain. Driveshafts are easier to remove, replace, and often times you can get home without one if absolutely necessary. Just my experience
__________________
We do not take risks to escape life, but to keep life from escaping us.-Unknown
COStrider is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 04:24 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
spinlock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: 37.9° N, 121.7° W
Posts: 1,921
Quote:
Originally Posted by COStrider View Post
1350 is less ideal due to additional strength. You want a fuse in the drivetrain. Driveshafts are easier to remove, replace, and often times you can get home without one if absolutely necessary. Just my experience
This is true of many systems including the drivetrain. You want to pick your weakest link. When worse comes to worse it cheaper and easier to replace a driveshaft than repair the transmission, transfer case or differentials. In many cases, its not the joints that fail; instead the shaft itself twists into a churro.
__________________
"A man has got to know his limitations."
H. Callahan
spinlock is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 06:55 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
HK_Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ken Caryl Valley, Colorado
Posts: 2,078
All this talk of driveshaft vibrations makes me want to stay stock.
__________________
2014 JKU Rubicon- White
2012 JK Rubicon (Gone)
HK_Runner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 07:10 PM   #23
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 31,515
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
All this talk of driveshaft vibrations makes me want to stay stock.
All the $$$$$$.............$$$ <-- (I'll add a few more.) You've spent. A ProRock would've been nice
__________________
2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler TR 2.5 coils/rear TB/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Teraflex monster TB/Synergy highsteer,tie rod, ball joints/Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/MC front SB links/Rancho geo brackets & shocks/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS=Frankinlift from hell.

Lifting your JK? Read this!!



Click HERE to become a WranglerForum Supporting Member!
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 07:13 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
HK_Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ken Caryl Valley, Colorado
Posts: 2,078
hahaha...true enough. With the new one, I am starting easy!!
__________________
2014 JKU Rubicon- White
2012 JK Rubicon (Gone)
HK_Runner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 07:20 PM   #25
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: wakarusa indiana
Posts: 178
Quote:
Originally Posted by texas05 View Post

With mine I replaced both yokes but don't some bolt up to the stock flanges? What are the disadvantages and advantages of doing this?
can someone answer this ? i also need a new front driveshaft
__________________
2010 wrangler jku sport
98 wrangler sport
sandfox4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 07:21 PM   #26
Jeeper
 
COStrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,693
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
churro.
I've taco'd and twizzlered a rear DS once. Not pretty. But looking back it's funny to do both at once. Ahahahahaha
__________________
We do not take risks to escape life, but to keep life from escaping us.-Unknown
COStrider is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 07:36 PM   #27
Jeeper
 
Tweak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Keller, TX
Posts: 1,867
Quote:
Originally Posted by COStrider View Post
1350 is less ideal due to additional strength. You want a fuse in the drivetrain. Driveshafts are easier to remove, replace, and often times you can get home without one if absolutely necessary. Just my experience
Oh yea this for sure! I will take a $30 ujoint over a ring gear any day
Tweak is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 08:03 PM   #28
Jeeper
 
HK_Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ken Caryl Valley, Colorado
Posts: 2,078
I have my 1350 sitting around now like a paperweight. I'll either use it by extending it, or go with a 1310 next time for the JKU. I guess it isn't bad to have a backup to take on trips.
__________________
2014 JKU Rubicon- White
2012 JK Rubicon (Gone)
HK_Runner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 08:12 PM   #29
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 31,515
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandfox4 View Post
can someone answer this ? i also need a new front driveshaft
Easier to replace a u-joint on the trail.
__________________
2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler TR 2.5 coils/rear TB/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Teraflex monster TB/Synergy highsteer,tie rod, ball joints/Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/MC front SB links/Rancho geo brackets & shocks/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS=Frankinlift from hell.

Lifting your JK? Read this!!



Click HERE to become a WranglerForum Supporting Member!
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-19-2014, 08:36 PM   #30
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: wakarusa indiana
Posts: 178
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Easier to replace a u-joint on the trail.
yes i know that , some shafts come with a new pinion yoke for the front axle and some come with a flat flange yoke that bolts to the original pinion yoke, is it worth the extra money replacing the factory pinion yoke ? i hope thats clearer

__________________
2010 wrangler jku sport
98 wrangler sport
sandfox4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:01 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC