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Old 12-09-2013, 09:50 AM   #1
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Shes going back to the dealer...anyone else seen this issue?

So I have experienced this before and dealer said it was a computer issue so the replaces it and have only experienced it once till yesterday...

I'll be cruising highway speeds of 65-70 at about 2200 RPM and then out of no where, my speedometer drops to 0, definitely loose power while my foot is on the pedal, Traction, Downhill assist and Break lights all flash on the dash for a split second, motor down shifts all in less than a second and then cruises again back up to where I was before. Happened about 30 times coming from big bear to Fullerton last night. I can understand a downshift, but what's with all the dash lights? Then after the traction light stayed up (read in manual that means common error for malfunction) and the cruise light stayed on and I could not turn the light off, even when cruise was not engaged. Had to shut the engine off to reset it.

Possible loose wiring? Maybe since I have larger tires than the computer is programmed for so it has to shift at a different time and the sudden shift makes the sensors read as if I was skidding due to sudden body over frame movement?

Idk people, what are your thoughts or experience?

BTW 2013 JKU Sport. 3" lift with 315/70/17 as the set up.

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Old 12-09-2013, 10:16 AM   #2
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My wife's 2013 GC dash lights all came on twice. Turns out it needed to reflash the program . You might have the same problem .

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Old 12-09-2013, 11:05 AM   #3
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This sounds like what happens with the anti roll when I have hit a major bump while towing
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:24 AM   #4
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Why have you not adjusted for the larger tires? Get an AEV Procal and set the proper tire size.
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:41 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by daggo66 View Post
Why have you not adjusted for the larger tires? Get an AEV Procal and set the proper tire size.
It's don't this before I had the larger tires so I pretty much ruled that out. I just have been lagging in that tho. I'll be picking on up this week.
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Old 12-09-2013, 12:07 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by ljrubitm View Post
My wife's 2013 GC dash lights all came on twice. Turns out it needed to reflash the program . You might have the same problem .
Did she lose power too? If not, the cluster lights will all light up if they receive a signal that they don't understand. This is often seen with an ALLgig or Lockpick not correctly passing signals. This should not cause power loss though.

What year was the GC? Mine that had the issue was an '09. Didn't have it in any of the other years.
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Old 12-09-2013, 12:14 PM   #7
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When my Jeep went in for the trans oil cooler line check up, they also did a reflash for an issue with the computer communicating with the gauge cluster. I know it says no start but the service writer said it could cause other issues with the cluster.

RRT 12-066 2013 JK INTERMITTENT NO START/CRANK WCM FLASH
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Old 12-09-2013, 12:41 PM   #8
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Why would tires do that? Completely irelevant. Would be literally dangerous.
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Old 12-09-2013, 01:25 PM   #9
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Why would tires do that? Completely irelevant. Would be literally dangerous.
Larger tires means the engine works harder to push them if you are set to "stock" programming. So it is relevant, pushing motor harder to maintain speeds up slight inclines or accelerating period. So motor works harder to get to that speed and the shifting points might be enough for it to trip out the sensors. But like I said before, it did this before with stock set up
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Old 12-09-2013, 01:34 PM   #10
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Larger tires means the engine works harder to push them if you are set to "stock" programming. So it is relevant, pushing motor harder to maintain speeds up slight inclines or accelerating period. So motor works harder to get to that speed and the shifting points might be enough for it to trip out the sensors. But like I said before, it did this before with stock set up
Not at all..then you'd have a hard time towing!
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Old 12-09-2013, 01:47 PM   #11
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Larger tires comes into play as the computer looks at the tire rotation compared to the gear revolution. If it does not match it puts the car into limp mode. I have the flash cal and when I put the wrong tire size in the car worked and then in about a mile I could not get out of 2nd gear (auto). Stopped the car turned off the ignition. Nothing.

Hooked up the flashcal put in the right tire size and has never had a problem since.

So it does matter quite a bit. Just like centering your steering wheel.
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:11 PM   #12
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Glad i have an 08 then. Apparently the new ones arent even safe to drive

Your wheel speed and gear speed will always match....
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:16 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Kevlars View Post
Larger tires comes into play as the computer looks at the tire rotation compared to the gear revolution. If it does not match it puts the car into limp mode. I have the flash cal and when I put the wrong tire size in the car worked and then in about a mile I could not get out of 2nd gear (auto). Stopped the car turned off the ignition. Nothing.

Hooked up the flashcal put in the right tire size and has never had a problem since.

So it does matter quite a bit. Just like centering your steering wheel.
If your Jeep didn't shift then it was not with the parameters needed with the incorrect tire size.

The gear rotation vs tire rotation will not change with respect to each other, the distance covered (or speed of Jeep) per 1 rotation will change. 1 rotation is 1 rotation. If you change gears, the the rate of rotation between the DS and the tire changes.
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:17 PM   #14
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Edit: Stroked types faster than me and said the same thing.
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:20 PM   #15
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Your wheels will rotate at the same rate as the driveline (for a given gear ratio) no matter what size tire you have.

They will not, however, be at the same rate if you regear, which is why you absolutely need to reprogram after a gear change or you will go into limp mode.
No one thinks before they post anymore.

My shift points didnt even change when i recalibrated for tire size....
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Old 12-09-2013, 04:49 PM   #16
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Guys I just did it again to test . Put in the factory values and it went into limp mode within .5 miles. Put in my correct value and bam all is fine. I have 35 bfg. By the way I never said that the drive shaft will travel at a different speed. Just letting you know what I have directly experienced. And a possible solution. Just trying to help
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:58 PM   #17
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Guys I just did it again to test . Put in the factory values and it went into limp mode within .5 miles. Put in my correct value and bam all is fine. I have 35 bfg. By the way I never said that the drive shaft will travel at a different speed. Just letting you know what I have directly experienced. And a possible solution. Just trying to help
Appreciate the test! Urs happened just .5 miles and then limp. Mine is only at the mentioned speed and RPM originally mentioned and happened with stock set up. Think it was originally not programmed correctly? After they swapped computers, I did the lift. That was a couple months back and am now just experiencing again. Weird it was immediate and now it's consistent. Anyways it's at dealer now, I'll report findings when I hear from them.
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:08 PM   #18
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What do ya know...they claim everything is fine and sounds/drives normal. I pulled it off the lot and had only 3 miles difference on the test drive. That's really their best work? Turned it right around and had a sales rep start up a '13 next to mine to compare. He heard the difference, but there service mechanic couldn't? So I got the service manager and the mechanic and told them we are going for a test drive. I addressed both issues and neither could not figure out what it was and no codes came up. Next step is to have a jeep engineer look at it next time he is out. So Then I asked the mechanic the same set of questions from what I asked prior to the drive and all his answers are different. So I called him out on everything and why it was only driven 3 miles for a diagnosis and why they changed tire pressures to stock after I clearly stated not to touch them because I am running at the tire recommendation (not reay, but most comfortable drive) He claimed I dropped one down to 15 lbs and the rest were at 35. I called BS and told him I check them every 2 weeks and never go higher than 28lbs for highway driving. He couldn't find where he noted the incorrect pressures on the work order cuz on it all are noted at good pressures of 35 pre inspection, and then I asked why his work is not noted and he says he doesn't imput the info. I then asked why not if he is the one working on my vehicle. He said he is suppose to but sometimes other people do it. WTF? Is this really the professional service Jeep is offering? Really got me fired up this morning. It's one thing to admit you found the issue and cannot pin point it, but then to cover it up and when approach about it, lie and continue lying? Jeep Chrysler will be getting a nice detailed email from me and in the event further issues arise with the vehicle, they know that the service dept let me leave with a possibly hazardous to drive vehicle. If ABS and brakes lock up while at highway speeds and I cause an accident, they will be in big pickle.
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:07 PM   #19
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with a 3" lift and 35's they might flag your warranty. Seems like it is an out for them when they can figure something out....void the warranty to fix the problem.
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:44 PM   #20
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with a 3" lift and 35's they might flag your warranty. Seems like it is an out for them when they can figure something out....void the warranty to fix the problem.
Lift will only void the suspension. Each modification only voids the warranty for that grouping of components that were changed. I'm ordering the Procal tonight to see if that helps
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:56 PM   #21
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Lift will only void the suspension. Each modification only voids the warranty for that grouping of components that were changed. I'm ordering the Procal tonight to see if that helps
oh I agree but I can hear some befuddled service writer or tech claiming the 35's were something that were not tested on stock jeeps therefore transmission and engines can not be warrantied if they are used. I actually have a thread going where I posed this question. My thread was the result of me emailing Jeep customer care and asking if putting 285/75-17 tires could void drive train warranty and the answer was it "could" because they are only tested with whatever comes stock on them. They used "could not would".
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:10 PM   #22
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oh I agree but I can hear some befuddled service writer or tech claiming the 35's were something that were not tested on stock jeeps therefore transmission and engines can not be warrantied if they are used. I actually have a thread going where I posed this question. My thread was the result of me emailing Jeep customer care and asking if putting 285/75-17 tires could void drive train warranty and the answer was it "could" because they are only tested with whatever comes stock on them. They used "could not would".
That is good to know! IMO I would rather do all the work myself anyways, but the warranties makes the cost of parts very nice at $0.00. Lol if I could just use warranty for the cost of parts and do the work myself, that would be great!
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:24 PM   #23
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That is good to know! IMO I would rather do all the work myself anyways, but the warranties makes the cost of parts very nice at $0.00. Lol if I could just use warranty for the cost of parts and do the work myself, that would be great!
I agree that would be great and then you know the work is done right but they would never go for that. I will say I have done it with a bmw motorcycle when I had an exhaust replaced under warranty, but I was good friends with the service writer and he knew I would not bone him if something did not work out and that I would return the defective exhaust back in case they got audited by the warranty rep.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:25 PM   #24
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I had this exact same issue. One of my battery cables was not seated properly on the battery. Took forever to figure it out because it looked right everyone I checked them
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:37 PM   #25
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I had this exact same issue. One of my battery cables was not seated properly on the battery. Took forever to figure it out because it looked right everyone I checked them
You know what! Now that u mention, my positive cable seemed loose, but I figure the rdirtroads and being real bumpy would set it off too...I never had it happen off pavement. I'll try retightening tho.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:43 PM   #26
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I had this exact same issue. One of my battery cables was not seated properly on the battery. Took forever to figure it out because it looked right everyone I checked them
You know what! Now that u mention, my positive cable seemed loose, but I figure the rdirtroads and being real bumpy would set it off too...I never had it happen off pavement. I'll try retightening tho. I'll be trouble shooting tomorrow
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:05 PM   #27
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Yeah, i chased this for quite some time. I couldnt seem to link it to going over bumps or anything. I had it happening mostly on road. make sure the connecter is all the way down on the battery terminal before you tighten it down.
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:12 PM   #28
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Yeah, i chased this for quite some time. I couldnt seem to link it to going over bumps or anything. I had it happening mostly on road. make sure the connecter is all the way down on the battery terminal before you tighten it down.
Between this and the reprogramming, I hope it's pin pointed and issue is resolved
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:21 PM   #29
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That sounds very similar to a problem that has plagued the Chevy Cobalts. No one ever figured it out. Only exception is that I didn't loose engine power. I could keep on going with no gauges.
Eventually it came back and it hasnt malfunctioned in over a year so if it Aint broke I cant look into it.


As for my Jeep,
Never had that issue... yet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WranglerAddict View Post
So I have experienced this before and dealer said it was a computer issue so the replaces it and have only experienced it once till yesterday...

I'll be cruising highway speeds of 65-70 at about 2200 RPM and then out of no where, my speedometer drops to 0, definitely loose power while my foot is on the pedal, Traction, Downhill assist and Break lights all flash on the dash for a split second, motor down shifts all in less than a second and then cruises again back up to where I was before. Happened about 30 times coming from big bear to Fullerton last night. I can understand a downshift, but what's with all the dash lights? Then after the traction light stayed up (read in manual that means common error for malfunction) and the cruise light stayed on and I could not turn the light off, even when cruise was not engaged. Had to shut the engine off to reset it.

Possible loose wiring? Maybe since I have larger tires than the computer is programmed for so it has to shift at a different time and the sudden shift makes the sensors read as if I was skidding due to sudden body over frame movement?

Idk people, what are your thoughts or experience?

BTW 2013 JKU Sport. 3" lift with 315/70/17 as the set up.
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Old 12-14-2013, 01:31 AM   #30
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