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Old 04-23-2014, 07:52 AM   #1
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Still have Bumpsteer

I've got an 07 JKUR.
4" Currie Lift
AEV Geo Correction brackets.
Currie Front adjustable track bar
Currie Track bar bracket Front and Rear
Synergy Drag Link Flip
Etc.

Fought DW for a month or so and finally resolved that through ball joints etc.

Here's some pictures of my front end. Any suggestions are welcome.



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Old 04-23-2014, 08:03 AM   #2
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And when I say bump steer I mean it. The geo correction brackets helped a lot along with the drag link flip. But I'm still getting wandering on uneven roads, dips, bumps, things of that sort jerk the wheel around if I'm not holding tight.

I have the toe in at 3/16 on 35 bfg at's
Castor is in the ball park I think. I have been adjusting a lot recently with the upper control arms and track bar trying to get everything true and center.

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Old 04-23-2014, 09:05 AM   #3
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Your draglink and trackbar are not parallel which will cause bumpsteer.. Do you have a drop pitman arm on there as well as the draglink flip?

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Old 04-23-2014, 11:57 AM   #4
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The Currie is a solid lift kit, but root of your challenge is that you selected a fairly large lift, at least for a JK and a lift kit that is not optimized for handling and ride. Then you added some parts to correct some of the deficiencies of the design. This improved the ride and handling but may not enough for your preferences. It's a complex geometry problem needs to be addressed when the lift kit is designed. Their party products may improve the geometry, but it is highly unlikely they will be the best match.

Part of the steering wander may be due to your tires tracking unevenness and small ruts on the road. The steering may not get to point you expect it to, even a stock Jeep has some Bump/Roll Steer.
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:13 PM   #5
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You can't go by looking at the Steering angles. From mounting point to mounting point if you were to draw a line.

My 2 door is pretty complete up front. Never going to be perfect.

Caster is in the ballpark you think ?
The brackets already fix caster. Are you sure you don't have enough or too much adjusting arms ?
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:14 PM   #6
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Good post Spin

OP... How high is the rear TB bracket? Handling is greatly benefited w/ a higher rear roll center.
(Understeer)
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Old 04-23-2014, 03:37 PM   #7
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I have 0 bumpster at 4" lift with the TF monster trackbar and AEV draglink flip /SS relocation kit. My trackbar and draglink are parallel. Due to the weird bends in trackbars the only way to determine the trackbar angle is to draw a line as in the photo above.. Both should be parallel, if not, you have bumpsteer.
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:58 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by JTPhoto JK View Post
Your draglink and trackbar are not parallel which will cause bumpsteer.. Do you have a drop pitman arm on there as well as the draglink flip?

Thanks for doing the drawing. No I decided to put the stock pitman arm back on when doing the drag link flip.
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
The Currie is a solid lift kit, but root of your challenge is that you selected a fairly large lift, at least for a JK and a lift kit that is not optimized for handling and ride. Then you added some parts to correct some of the deficiencies of the design. This improved the ride and handling but may not enough for your preferences. It's a complex geometry problem needs to be addressed when the lift kit is designed. Their party products may improve the geometry, but it is highly unlikely they will be the best match.

Part of the steering wander may be due to your tires tracking unevenness and small ruts on the road. The steering may not get to point you expect it to, even a stock Jeep has some Bump/Roll Steer.
I am just trying to be a perfectionist I guess. I understand the risk I took when going for a lift of that size, that's why I chose Currie. I guess I need to sit down with my buddies and fabricate a better bracket for the track arm mount.
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:09 PM   #10
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You can't go by looking at the Steering angles. From mounting point to mounting point if you were to draw a line.

My 2 door is pretty complete up front. Never going to be perfect.

Caster is in the ballpark you think ?
The brackets already fix caster. Are you sure you don't have enough or too much adjusting arms ?
Well I had left CA's where the were from the alignment shop when I recently installed the AEV geo brackets. Then I realized I may have a little too much caster because my springs were bending backwards under flex. So I have been dialing it out little by little.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Good post Spin

OP... How high is the rear TB bracket? Handling is greatly benefited w/ a higher rear roll center.
(Understeer)
Rear track bar bracket matches the front, although I'm using a RE trackbar in the back.
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:16 PM   #11
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Are you positive there's no play where the knuckle was drilled ? Did you ream or use a adapter ?

Assuming your front track bar bracket is 3" to match the flip... The angles should be fine.
Plenty of people running 4-5" lift and steering correction, all TB brackets I know if raise 3"
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:22 PM   #12
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Are you positive there's no play where the knuckle was drilled ? Did you ream or use a adapter ?

Assuming your front track bar bracket is 3" to match the flip... The angles should be fine.
Plenty of people running 4-5" lift and steering correction, all TB brackets I know if raise 3"
I used a drill bit and the adapter and there is no slop.
Although I could barely get the stud down far enough to get the cotter pin through. I cant remember the torque spec but I had to go beyond it to get the hole uncovered by the knuckle.

Take a closer look at the picture and you'll see what I'm talking about.
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:56 PM   #13
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Needs to be seated more.

A lot of folks had issues drilling the knuckle. SYnergy has changed their instructions like 3 times already.

Looking at the lines in that pic. with the TRE seated properly that angle would better match up with the track bar.
I'm no geometry wiz, but A 1/4" over the length of the drag link is magnified a good amount.

Pull that end and measure the hole. I'm pretty sure it's going to be small. What bit did you use ?

Call or go to Synergy's site and request the smaller adapter, assuming you received the 7/8 which doesn't always work.

I just installed a synergy drag link. The jeep already had AEV's adapter/flip. The TRE would not fit at all. She bought the 13/16 adapter. It dropped right in and TRE fit perfect.
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:04 PM   #14
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Good luck getting that adapter - no one had it. I got the last one 4wd.com had. Everyone I called said it was discontinued, though Synergy said they are still making it.
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:26 PM   #15
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Ha ^^ jus ask Sue
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:14 PM   #16
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Just went at it and torqued it as far as I could with the room given. Does this look close?

And as far as the sizing goes I have their latest version

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Old 04-23-2014, 07:54 PM   #17
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That's definitely better and should help to ease some of the bumpsteer.
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:05 PM   #18
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Just went for a test drive and it is almost 100% better. Still a little feedback in the wheel but it seems pretty minor. Now I'll dial in the caster to be positive everything is on its mark and I'll be a happy camper.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:40 PM   #19
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Wow ... ^ it does look better. I just never seen a correction kit set the angles incorrect.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:53 PM   #20
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Wow ... ^ it does look better. I just never seen a correction kit set the angles incorrect.
With the tie rod in the way I could only tighten it down with a wrench originally. Plus I followed the torque spec.

Today when I pulled the cotter pin out there was hardly any network left on the nut. I then tightend it down using a box end wrench and use my feet as leverage and tightened it down as hard as I could. I'm afraid to go any farther due to the original torque spec.
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Old 04-24-2014, 12:08 AM   #21
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There's could have very much been play also.
There's no worry torquing them done. The factory knuckle and adapter are both tapered. The worst that can happen is stripped threads.
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Old 04-24-2014, 12:22 AM   #22
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I was thinking about removing the tie rod and hitting it with a big impact but.didn't.want.to put 300 lbs of torque on it.
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Old 04-24-2014, 12:39 AM   #23
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I have the RE super flex 3.5" lift but its closer to 4.5" with the acos spacers up front and 3/4 spacer in the rear.

After installing the Teraflex HD flip kit I still had a slight bump steer. I had the toe adjusted to 18 on both sides and the bump steer went away.
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Old 04-24-2014, 02:32 AM   #24
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I have the RE super flex 3.5" lift but its closer to 4.5" with the acos spacers up front and 3/4 spacer in the rear.

After installing the Teraflex HD flip kit I still had a slight bump steer. I had the toe adjusted to 18 on both sides and the bump steer went away.
Do you mean "Bump Steer" or the wheels would follow uneven groves of the road and such.

I'm at 3/16 toed in right now, but I'm getting 35x12.5x15 General Grabber AT2's tomorrow and will be going back to 1/16. Perhaps experimenting toeing out a hair just to see how it works on/off road.

I'll post pictures of the new rims and tires along with the rest of my products that have broken the piggy bank.
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Old 04-24-2014, 02:36 AM   #25
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Do you mean "Bump Steer" or the wheels would follow uneven groves of the road and such.

I'm at 3/16 toed in right now, but I'm getting 35x12.5x15 General Grabber AT2's tomorrow and will be going back to 1/16. Perhaps experimenting toeing out a hair just to see how it works on/off road.

I'll post pictures of the new rims and tires along with the rest of my products that have broken the piggy bank.
No i mean bump steer..slight sawing motion of the steering wheel.

The "following the grooves in the road " effect is a trait of mud terrian tires. Some do it more than others.
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Old 04-24-2014, 02:40 AM   #26
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No i mean bump steer..slight sawing motion of the steering wheel.

The "following the grooves in the road " effect is a trait of mud terrian tires. Some do it more than others.
My 315/70/17 BFG A/T's are on their last leg and they still follow those groves. I'm thinking that trying different toe settings and adding a little more positive caster should help keep this in control a little better.
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Old 04-24-2014, 05:37 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorillahydrographics View Post
I have the RE super flex 3.5" lift but its closer to 4.5" with the acos spacers up front and 3/4 spacer in the rear. After installing the Teraflex HD flip kit I still had a slight bump steer. I had the toe adjusted to 18 on both sides and the bump steer went away.
18 on both sides ? Watch tire wear
Toe out is used mostly for a bandaid fix for worn ball joints.
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Old 04-24-2014, 08:43 AM   #28
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18 on both sides ? Watch tire wear
Toe out is used mostly for a bandaid fix for worn ball joints.
I've heard many different opinions on toe in vs toe out.
My dad and a my good friends dad both raced and currently race Class 10 and a Trophy Truck. They both recommend 1/16th out or dead straight for a vehicle that is a hybrid street / off road rig.

Fun fact: if the toe setting is just 1/16-inch off of its appropriate setting, each tire on that axle will scrub almost seven feet sideways every mile!
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Old 04-24-2014, 08:55 AM   #29
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I've heard many different opinions on toe in vs toe out. My dad and a my good friends dad both raced and currently race Class 10 and a Trophy Truck. They both recommend 1/16th out or dead straight for a vehicle that is a hybrid street / off road rig. Fun fact: if the toe setting is just 1/16-inch off of its appropriate setting, each tire on that axle will scrub almost seven feet sideways every mile!
Good points just remember, under normal driving the force will toe the tires out. So if you were set to 1/16 .. Driving would be more like 0
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Old 04-24-2014, 09:07 AM   #30
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I've experimented with toe. Never out. 1/16, 1/8 and 3/8 in. Can't say I felt any difference. I think a lot depends on tire size. Also heavier HD components. It all depends on your setup, for example, I've seen jeeps run all different toe specs. One setting may work for one but not the other.

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