I'm very interested to see what the full kit is going for. Will they list without shocks like they do their other kits? That's one of the things I really like about TF, they let us buy what we want and not force a specific set of components on us.
These lengths match the arms that come with the mapar 3" lift. In fact they are within 1/16" of what I measured. Although the Mopar kit does not come with front uppers. The Mopar arms appear to be much stronger and are heavier than the stock arms. I measured 1-5/8" O.D. on all arms. I'm curious to know of the TF arms are the same.... Did you happen to measure the diameter of the tubing? Also, do the TF arms come with Tenneco bushings?
These lengths match the arms that come with the mapar 3" lift. In fact they are within 1/16" of what I measured. Although the Mopar kit does not come with front uppers. The Mopar arms appear to be much stronger and are heavier than the stock arms. I measured 1-5/8" O.D. on all arms. I'm curious to know of the TF arms are the same.... Did you happen to measure the diameter of the tubing? Also, do the TF arms come with Tenneco bushings? Good work ken!
Stock Clevite on the bushings. Assuming the arms are stronger. The front uppers are stock in length. They're would be no point in replacing them if the same strength/diameter.
A very good option with less maintenance since there a not nuts to loosen or joints to lube. However, as demonstrated by the numerous threads, the same lift kit does not produce same amount of lift on every Jeep so have adjustability is ofter a better choice specially if your selective about steering and axle position. Also many owners that start with a moderate 2.5-3" lift move up to taller lifts in which case these arms would also not be the best choice.
This is perfect. I'm not a big fan of drop brackets since I abused them on deep ruts. Synergy sells a similar setup for 200 for their front LCA. Now the price war begins.
So if I were going get a rk 2.5 flex lift that comes with LCAs would it be more beneficial to get the stock mod and get these new teraflex fixed CA? Especially since I probably won't keep up with greasing or anything
Giving you have a four-door, I would get the kit with front lower control arms and call it a day.
The TeraFlex arms may or may not give you the adjustment needed at that height.
Here is something I did not notice with stock lower control arms vs the TF ones (but I have to be honest I did not look at stock either.)
when on the ramp with the TF sport arm when at or near max droop the arm appears to get into bind on the rear mount. I am not sure if this limits the droop or not but I was not on the bumpstops and the coil still had plenty of compression left. Might have been that way just did not notice.
Based on the coil, bumpstop space and still had about 2" of shock left to compress I should have drooped more I would have thought. regardless it got 90" up the ramp so I am not terribly disappointed.
Looks like it really should have compressed a bit more... Something definitely bound before bump stops. Full flex with sway bar connected? Ken, what's your take on this?
funny thing is right after this I put 1" hockey puck bumpstops in because I figured it would be better for the TF bushings. Seems like I have plenty of space between coils compared to other coils I have seen that are compressed. yesterday had a 3.5" AEV lift and a 3" BDS lift and both compressed their coils much more.
Still 2" shock travel? That's like 3" of wheel travel. How close are the tires? If your tires have room and you have 2" of shock left, you don't need more bump stop in my opinion.
I think there is still plenty of spring to go there... Not all springs like to fully compressed, but that's not enough.
It could be the arms/joints, I have also seen where full flex isn't achieved with the sway bar connected. Unbolt the sway and try it again?
Still 2" shock travel? That's like 3" of wheel travel. How close are the tires? If your tires have room and you have 2" of shock left, you don't need more bump stop in my opinion. I think there is still plenty of spring to go there... Not all springs like to fully compressed, but that's not enough. It could be the arms/joints, I have also seen where full flex isn't achieved with the sway bar connected. Unbolt the sway and try it again?
I have a 2014 unlimited sport, manual trans. I was originally planning on the TF 3" fully adjustable short arm kit with the high-misalignment joints. When I first saw the TF 8 Sport kit, I was very happy for a money saving option that would give me some castor and take the alignment cost out of the equation. Now, my thinking has changed. If the Sport kit has stock style bushings on the arms, why not just go with Rancho front geo correction brackets and keep my stock front arms? I have read that many people don't like the loss of clearance, but that is not an issue for me.
What should I do about my rear pinion angle? A set of 4 TF rear sport arms? or just uppers? Or I see synergy has a set of rear lowers that are 1/2" longer than stock? Wouldn't longer rear lowers be sending my pinion angle in the wrong direction? Maybe I'm mistaken.
Please help me wrap my brain around this set-up?
-TF 3" basic lift with shocks
-Rancho front drop brackets
-TF Monster track bar
-some kind of solution for rear pinion angle
I have a 2014 unlimited sport, manual trans. I was originally planning on the TF 3" fully adjustable short arm kit with the high-misalignment joints. When I first saw the TF 8 Sport kit, I was very happy for a money saving option that would give me some castor and take the alignment cost out of the equation. Now, my thinking has changed. If the Sport kit has stock style bushings on the arms, why not just go with Rancho front geo correction brackets and keep my stock front arms? I have read that many people don't like the loss of clearance, but that is not an issue for me. What should I do about my rear pinion angle? A set of 4 TF rear sport arms? or just uppers? Or I see synergy has a set of rear lowers that are 1/2" longer than stock? Wouldn't longer rear lowers be sending my pinion angle in the wrong direction? Maybe I'm mistaken. Please help me wrap my brain around this set-up? -TF 3" basic lift with shocks -Rancho front drop brackets -TF Monster track bar -some kind of solution for rear pinion angle Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, longer rear lowers will rotate the pinion down. These are meant to be run with adjustable uppers.
Front arms or brackets .. Totally your choice. The TF sport front lower is only 3/16 over stock. The upper is the same as stock. The brackets should give you more of a caster bump then the sport arms would. A lot of folks run correction brackets including myself.
You own a 4 door. Rear pinion angle Is not important unless running a double carden style driveshaft. 2-3" you should be ok running the stock DS for a while.
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