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To gusset or to not gusset

17K views 36 replies 23 participants last post by  TerryC6 
#1 ·
K I could be spelling it wrong but what's everyone's opinion on gusseting the front axle ?

I have 3.5 jks lift and 35x12.5R20 tires. Friend down the street from me installed the teraflex gusset kit and looks to strengthen the axle housing alot. He swears it drives better . Any input for a newbie ?
 
#2 ·
I don't personally think it drives better, but yes def gusset IMO. I gusseted and trussed my front dana 44. Cheap insurance against bent C's or a smiling axle tube or worse. If you can weld then its a piece of cake to do so. If not I cant see a shop charging a whole lot to weld it up for you.
 
#3 ·
The choices aren't "to gusset or not".

The choices are:

1. Gusset it now and it will hold up for many years (if done properly).
2. Let the axle bend. The "when" is only a matter of how you drive the Jeep.

Just do it. I'm sure the Terraflex kit is good. Another alternative is the Artec kit which is very popular. I've had the Artec kit on my Jeep since I switched over to 35" tires. It's holding up just fine, even with wheeling some substantial trails on a somewhat regular basis.
 
#6 ·
Like anything else, taking the axle off the Jeep so you have room to maneuver, along with being able to rotate it makes it a lot easier. I was doing a whole bunch of work on my Jeep when I did the gussets (and the truss) so we just pulled the axle off while it was mostly apart anyway. But there's nothing stopping you from welding it all while it's on the Jeep. Once the tire is off, there's enough room to get in there to weld it.

Really, it's just 4 bolts for the control arms, one for the track bar, the swaybar end links, the drag link, brake calipers, shocks, and ABS sensors. But there's nothing wrong with leaving the axle in place.
 
#5 ·
Yes, you can do it without pulling the axle off the Jeep. That's how mine were done.

Be aware that welding the C gussets on can damage the plastic liners on the stock ball joints. It really seems to be hit or miss. My balljoints went out about a month after putting my gussets on. Could have been coincidence, but you never know.

Mike
 
#9 ·
Gusset and do the ball joints at the same time. You can leave them in, wrap wet rags around them to keep them cool but as long as you've got it all torn apart, just get it done.

And gussets won't do anything for your axle tubes. They reinforce your inner C's. On the JK D44, the C's are pretty weak. If you want to reinforce the axle tubes, you need to sleeve or truss them. Probably overkill with 35's unless you're playing in the rock a lot.
 
#10 ·
[QUOTE="flyfishnevada;22687793" ]And gussets won't do anything for your axle tubes. They reinforce your inner C's. On the JK D44, the C's are pretty weak. If you want to reinforce the axle tubes, you need to sleeve or truss.[/QUOTE]

Ok I have a question for you. Have you actually seen a JK D30 or D44 bent or just the tube bent at the C welds (which the C gusset supports as well). I have seen tubes bent at the C but I have yet to see an actual C bent. Even a Google search provided no such evidence. I have asked this question on many forums and no one yet has provided proof of photos that the JK D30 and D44 C's bend.
 
#17 ·
Plan on doing mine...want the extra insurance. Like it's been said above I'm doing the ball joints and going a step further and doing regear, Trutrac, Rcv axles, Reid racing knuckles etc
 
#22 ·
I'm still waiting to see a picture of a bent C. Can't help but think it may be the elusive Unicorn of the JK world. Everyone has heard of it and a very few have seen it but no pictures seem to exist. As a metallurgist I can't imagine them bending as stout as they are unless they were significantly abused but I have certainly heard of it.
 
#23 ·
It seems like the actual concern is a bend in the tube or joint where the C meets the tube, not the actual C itself.
 
#28 ·
Ok, I decided to buy the Artec gusset kit, but not until AFTER I replaced my ball joints. The replacement ball joints are Synergy, and here's my dilemma: should I remove the BJ's before having the gussets welded? I know the plastic stock ones will melt from the welding heat, but what about aftermarket ones like the Synergy's? I realize it would have been easier to accomplish while the BJ's were out, but my planning sometimes tends to be a little off. What do you guys think?
 
#32 ·
I'm getting gears, gussets and sleeves installed in about a week at ECGS, Raleigh, NC. I originally went in to discuss a re-gear and was also considering gussets. These guys do axle builds all day everyday and they told me they see more bent axles than bent Cs, but evidently bent Cs do happen. So I decided to do the sleeves too at the same time. If you do moderate wheeling or any rock crawling you might consider sleeves. My logic is that a little prevention is cheaper than replacing an axle.
 
#35 ·
I just ordered G2 gussets and they come with the lower control arm skids as well. Cheapest price I could find. Same 1/4" steel as everyone else.
I'm going to 35's shortly and debated doing them. Better safe than sorry.
Also doing Synergy Ball joints since I'll be in there, just for the extra insurance.
 
#36 ·
I did gussets & sleeves when I bumped up to 35's as inexpensive insurance. My JKUR is my daily driver for now but I may eventually do a truss in the future as well.
 
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