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Old 01-10-2014, 07:28 PM   #1
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To lift or not to lift

Ok, so to start....I have searched. Allot. I have read about the advantages of LCOG vs a huge lift. I know about drive shaft issues over 3.5 or 4"(less of a concern for my 4dr, but still a concern) and am trying to decide the best way to spend my money.

I have a 4dr JKUR, it came with a 2'' puck lift/spacer lift, and 305/70/17 nitto terra grapplers. It already has steel bumpers, winch and a loud as hell tire carrier!

So I am trying to decide which way to go. I will and do use it as a daily driver, and do 3s and 4s in Gilmer, climbing rocks etc. I am wondering if my money would be better spent replacing the annoying tire carrier with an ORFAB, replacing my tires with 35" mud tires, adding some armor underneath and buying some rocker knockers for side protection or .........

spend the money on a 2.5" Rock Krawler X factor or Metal Cloak game changer lite lift.

I will need all of it eventually, but which would be your priority?

Will the additional flex I get from the lift outweigh the benefits of bigger tires, protection etc?

Thanks for any advice.

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Old 01-10-2014, 08:46 PM   #2
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I say get a rock krawler 1.5" (any of the kits should fit the bill) and some flat fenders. Flat fenders will allow bigger tires without going higher. You can probably run 35" or 37" tires with just that lift and flat flares.

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Old 01-11-2014, 04:40 AM   #3
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If the your current tires are shot start with the tires.

If you really need the armor then start with one of those two lift kits. They are both good choices.
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:06 AM   #4
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i would get that spacer lift out of there and go with either stock height suspension and metal cloak fenders or a 2.5" lift)
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:09 AM   #5
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I say get RIGID D2 HYPERSPOTS
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Old 01-11-2014, 06:05 AM   #6
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I say get RIGID D2 HYPERSPOTS
lol good lights im sure but i think they were looking at performance upgrades
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:33 AM   #7
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Thanks for the replies. As far as armor goes, I do drag my undercarriage on some if the trails but I thought the lift could potentially alleviate some of that.

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I say get a rock krawler 1.5" (any of the kits should fit the bill) and some flat fenders. Flat fenders will allow bigger tires without going higher. You can probably run 35" or 37" tires with just that lift and flat flares.
Would you run the 1.5" with the spacers or take those out? And I like the metal cloak fenders, those will be going on eventually as well.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:39 AM   #8
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best lift info out there.
My thoughts on lifts
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Old 01-11-2014, 04:24 PM   #9
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Thanks for the replies. As far as armor goes, I do drag my undercarriage on some if the trails but I thought the lift could potentially alleviate some of that.



Would you run the 1.5" with the spacers or take those out? And I like the metal cloak fenders, those will be going on eventually as well.
if you were too run the spacers with a lift you would probably be looking at 3.5" to 4" of lift from stock depending on the weight of any aftermarket bumpers and other mods. this is the range of lift height where you have to start worrying about yoke slip, pinion angle and a whole slew of other issues. I would stick with a good quality 2.5" or lower lift and not have to worry about any of that
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:28 PM   #10
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So I'm curious as to why I would need to get rid of the spacer lift if I was wanting to run 35s and flat fenders? Would that extra height not help me keep from rubbing? I would remove the spacers when I had more money available to add the rk or metalcloak.
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:32 PM   #11
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So I'm curious as to why I would need to get rid of the spacer lift if I was wanting to run 35s and flat fenders? Would that extra height not help me keep from rubbing? I would remove the spacers when I had more money available to add the rk or metalcloak.
run the spacers with the flat fenders.
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:36 PM   #12
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So I'm curious as to why I would need to get rid of the spacer lift if I was wanting to run 35s and flat fenders? Would that extra height not help me keep from rubbing? I would remove the spacers when I had more money available to add the rk or metalcloak.
I never said not to run spacers and flat fenderflares i said not to run 2"spacers with a 1.5" lift please read more carefully and as for the why i explained that in my last post
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:42 PM   #13
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i would get that spacer lift out of there and go with either stock height suspension and metal cloak fenders or a 2.5" lift)
Really? Cause that is exactly what you said. Let me paraphrase. Get that spacer lift out and run flat fenders or do a 2.5" lift. You should pay a little more attention to what you post.

Anyone else with advice that doesn't completely contradict previous advice?!!!!
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:50 PM   #14
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Really? Cause that is exactly what you said. Let me paraphrase. Get that spacer lift out and run flat fenders or do a 2.5" lift. You should pay a little more attention to what you post.

Anyone else with advice that doesn't completely contradict previous advice?!!!!
Okay so my first post was a little unclear sorry thats my bad completely disregard that post as my later ones actually make sense
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:13 AM   #15
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Get a 3-4" kit and do it once. Any less and you will end up regretting it.
It takes ATLEAST 35" tires to make a 4dr look like an offroad rig in my opinion.
4" and 37" tires are ideal in my eyes.

Fenders and armor are also necessary. But I say you bang out the lift first. Start a solid foundation and have something to look at everyday and think, god I love my Jeep. Instead of thinking, god I wish my Jeep didnt look like a minivan
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:44 AM   #16
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Get a 3-4" kit and do it once. Any less and you will end up regretting it.
It takes ATLEAST 35" tires to make a 4dr look like an offroad rig in my opinion.
4" and 37" tires are ideal in my eyes.

Fenders and armor are also necessary. But I say you bang out the lift first. Start a solid foundation and have something to look at everyday and think, god I love my Jeep. Instead of thinking, god I wish my Jeep didnt look like a minivan
Hahaha r u sure ur not blind how does a jeep without 35s or bigger look like a minivan haha what r u compensating for your lack of driving skills or ur lack of a d**k
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Old 01-13-2014, 02:19 AM   #17
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Look here son. First off learn how to take a joke.
and secondly, I wasnt really joking because I have a 4dr Rubi and I have had the stock tires, 35s for almost a year, and to be honest it still doesnt look half as good as my TJ on 33s. Thats why I'm going to 37s, thats when a 4dr really comes to life in my opinion.

And as far as driving goes, I come from a family of offroad, short course and professional MX racers. I could probably spank you through the desert in a Honda Pilot. Watch your mouth this is a forum not a bar
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Old 01-13-2014, 02:28 AM   #18
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Look here son. First off learn how to take a joke.
and secondly, I wasnt really joking because I have a 4dr Rubi and I have had the stock tires, 35s for almost a year, and to be honest it still doesnt look half as good as my TJ on 33s. Thats why I'm going to 37s, thats when a 4dr really comes to life in my opinion.

And as far as driving goes, I come from a family of offroad, short course and professional MX racers. I could probably spank you through the desert in a Honda Pilot. Watch your mouth this is a forum not a bar
I never thought u were joking i thought u were wrong welcome to america land of opinions. And granted its a 4 door it might look good with 35's but really? U dont think it looks like an offroader? Really? And sorry about the language i get rowdy sometimes. As for the Honda Pilot comment hahaha
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:12 AM   #19
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I rescind and apologize for all earlier offensive comments! There is no reason why our differing opinions have to cause strife, after all we are all here for the love of jeeps.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:36 AM   #20
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Agreed. I love my Jeeps and my opinions haha.
No worries no hard feelings.
Anytime you want to take me up on that race ill get the Honda ready hahaha
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:38 AM   #21
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Agreed. I love my Jeeps and my opinions haha.
No worries no hard feelings.
Anytime you want to take me up on that race ill get the Honda ready hahaha
Lol sounds like fun ill make my way out there someday ;-)
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:43 AM   #22
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Wow! Got a little intense all hours of the morning! Thanks again for everyone's help.

Somis, I too wanted 37s but don't want to spend the money on re gearing that I hear would be necessary. I was looking originally at metalcloak a 3.5" lift, fenders and 37s, then realized my wife and kids would never get in! Also there is a lot of off camber driving/crawling where I wheel so I started looking into lower lifts.

I think for the money, I may do the tires, armor, rails, and new tire carrier. Next round I can get rid of the spacers and put on a real lift. Thanks again.

Please take video if the honda pilot race!!!
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:29 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by DFW99AG View Post
Ok, so to start....I have searched. Allot. I have read about the advantages of LCOG vs a huge lift. I know about drive shaft issues over 3.5 or 4"(less of a concern for my 4dr, but still a concern) and am trying to decide the best way to spend my money.

I have a 4dr JKUR, it came with a 2'' puck lift/spacer lift, and 305/70/17 nitto terra grapplers. It already has steel bumpers, winch and a loud as hell tire carrier!

So I am trying to decide which way to go. I will and do use it as a daily driver, and do 3s and 4s in Gilmer, climbing rocks etc. I am wondering if my money would be better spent replacing the annoying tire carrier with an ORFAB, replacing my tires with 35" mud tires, adding some armor underneath and buying some rocker knockers for side protection or .........

spend the money on a 2.5" Rock Krawler X factor or Metal Cloak game changer lite lift.

I will need all of it eventually, but which would be your priority?

Will the additional flex I get from the lift outweigh the benefits of bigger tires, protection etc?

Thanks for any advice.
Personally I would address the problems in this order....

1) Fix the carrier. I can't enjoy my ride if it sounds like a bag of bolts.

2) Add protection to the belly. No point of owning a jeep if you cant enjoy it NOW. Add EVO skids, and go wheel.

3) Get whatever wheels/tires you want to run.
4) Get whatever suspension is required for you to fully articulate those tires, be it a 2.5, a 3.5, whatever.

Oh, and my personal opinion...if you need 3.5" of lift to fully articulate, I would rather run 2.5" and flatties and save that 1" of LCOG.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:52 AM   #24
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Personally I would address the problems in this order.... 1) Fix the carrier. I can't enjoy my ride if it sounds like a bag of bolts. 2) Add protection to the belly. No point of owning a jeep if you cant enjoy it NOW. Add EVO skids, and go wheel. 3) Get whatever wheels/tires you want to run. 4) Get whatever suspension is required for you to fully articulate those tires, be it a 2.5, a 3.5, whatever. Oh, and my personal opinion...if you need 3.5" of lift to fully articulate, I would rather run 2.5" and flatties and save that 1" of LCOG.
Awesome! Thanks for the advice. The carrier is annoying as hell! I'm looking at the orfab that attaches to the tailgate hinges as opposed to the bumper. Can't decide if I want the one with the cans or not, I hear some complaints about how far it sticks out and I got bigger problems if I run outta gas!

As far as wheeling it now, I completely agree. I can add a lot of stuff for the price of either of those lifts.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:56 AM   #25
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1. Skids
2. Carrier
3. MC 2.5"
4. Tires
5. Beer
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:03 AM   #26
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1. Skids
2. Carrier
3. MC 2.5"
4. Tires
5. Beer
Wrong.

1) Skids+beer
2) Carrier+beer
3) MC 2.5+beer
4) Tires+beer
5) Beer+beer.
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:56 PM   #27
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If you are using an Installer, make sure he is reputable and experienced. I had bad luck in that respect, and paid dearly for it. Keep your lift simple and be careful when anyone says they want to cut/weld. Welder should be a Master Welder or very experienced with Jeeps. Make sure you can go back to stock if needed. I am just a bit paranoid now, but I spent several thousand trying to undo the crap this Hack did. I cannot even tell you how many weeks and weeks I wasted as well.

I am getting a new JKUR soon. I will go slow this time, and use only the best guys around. Even 32s are very capable here in Colorado, so I can take my time.
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:31 PM   #28
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Oh, and my personal opinion...if you need 3.5" of lift to fully articulate, I would rather run 2.5" and flatties and save that 1" of LCOG.
Hopefully I'm not hijacking the OPs thread too much. Ive read, just about everywhere, that if you can keep it low its better. Just curious though, does the ~1" difference between a 2.5 and 3.5 really make a noticeable difference in off-road stability? Im in the 2.5 vs 3.5 debate right now. Planning on running 37s and flats down the road, but 35s for a while until i can get the money for new drive shafts and some other stuff.
I'm just worried about the 2.5 not being enough to fully utilize the 37s once the front bumper/winch, skids, and rear bumper are put on. But I do want it to be as stable as possible if there is a big difference between the 2.5 and 3.5.

And then there is the other questions. Whats better, a 2.5" with larger bump stops or a 3.5 with smaller bumpstops (assume running the same size tire between the two. I figure it depends on where you're wheeling but I'm curious what yalls thoughts are on this)

/hijack
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:42 PM   #29
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Hopefully I'm not hijacking the OPs thread too much. Ive read, just about everywhere, that if you can keep it low its better. Just curious though, does the ~1" difference between a 2.5 and 3.5 really make a noticeable difference in off-road stability? Im in the 2.5 vs 3.5 debate right now. Planning on running 37s and flats down the road, but 35s for a while until i can get the money for new drive shafts and some other stuff. I'm just worried about the 2.5 not being enough to fully utilize the 37s once the front bumper/winch, skids, and rear bumper are put on. But I do want it to be as stable as possible if there is a big difference between the 2.5 and 3.5. And then there is the other questions. Whats better, a 2.5" with larger bump stops or a 3.5 with smaller bumpstops (assume running the same size tire between the two. I figure it depends on where you're wheeling but I'm curious what yalls thoughts are on this) /hijack
To answer your question:
First pic is a RK 3.5
Second pic is RK 2.5
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:26 PM   #30
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Hopefully I'm not hijacking the OPs thread too much. Ive read, just about everywhere, that if you can keep it low its better. Just curious though, does the ~1" difference between a 2.5 and 3.5 really make a noticeable difference in off-road stability? Im in the 2.5 vs 3.5 debate right now. Planning on running 37s and flats down the road, but 35s for a while until i can get the money for new drive shafts and some other stuff.
I'm just worried about the 2.5 not being enough to fully utilize the 37s once the front bumper/winch, skids, and rear bumper are put on. But I do want it to be as stable as possible if there is a big difference between the 2.5 and 3.5.

And then there is the other questions. Whats better, a 2.5" with larger bump stops or a 3.5 with smaller bumpstops (assume running the same size tire between the two. I figure it depends on where you're wheeling but I'm curious what yalls thoughts are on this)

/hijack
Well, in short, a 2.5 is seldom a 2.5 and a 3.5 is seldom a 3.5. My AEV 2.5 will sit lower than someone with a stock jeep with a 2.5. 1" lower is still lower, so if you can avoid it, why not? Furthermore, 3" is the magic number on wranglers. After 3" you start having to address other issues. The driveshaft WILL fail at 3.5", its not a matter of IF but rather WHEN. Next comes the steering...above 3", the steering geometry changes to a point where it suffers and you have a Jeep that handles and drives worse, so you need to start with the drag link flip, etc etc...more cost, more messing around, more parts not covered under warranty, etc. You gain nothing by lifting past your articulation point other than looks, but you start dealing with lots more problems. I'm on most Jeep forums and do a lot of reading, A LOT. From my "research" it is quite apparent that the people that generally have drivability issues with their jeeps are people that lift them too high.

Many don't agree, but it's my personal opinion, nothing more.

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