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Old 12-22-2013, 10:06 PM   #1
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to sleeve or to truss, that is the question

Okay, I got the lift, tires, bumpers, winch, and other goodies, now I need to beef up the d30....should I sleeve or truss? I am going to gusset the c's no matter what...but what should i go with and what brands do you recommend

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Old 12-22-2013, 11:48 PM   #2
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Sleeves : pretty much the same for weld in Terraflex or synergy I use all synergy for jobs.
Trusses: Artec Industries makes a bomb proof unit that is nice install these only, there's others out there but love Artec.

I'd do control arm skids as well.....

Nitro makes a pound in sleeve but I'd opt for weld In.

Mine has sleeves and truss


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Old 12-23-2013, 08:02 AM   #3
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Brut, a few questions regarding the sleeve/truss work...

I take it you disassembled the entire rear prior to welding. But I still see the factory ball joints left in. With their Teflon sleeves, is there a worry about the heat from nearby welding?

Was the cast carrier portion preheated and post weld cooled when welded? Did you use a different filler rod for either the cast carrier area or the forged 'C' ends? Did you Mig the whole thing or Tig any of it?
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Old 12-23-2013, 12:06 PM   #4
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This is one I did off the vehicle I do ALOT on the rigs.....I did my last 2 on rig...this is typically the build I do for myself as far as this exact set up....
Sleeves, gussetts, synergy HD control arm pockets, Artec track bar bracket, spring retainers, relocated shock mounts, synergy ball joints........

Yes I keep stock bj in this one just cause I didn't get around d to swapping them yet.

Cool rag for top ball joints a little wet, slow weld a smidge and cool it, continue till top section is done.
I sold the fig I run miller 251 mig,,,,love this machine.

Truss take it slow go from side to side and end to end switching it up don't burn big runs. As far as housing get a tor h and preheat it up where your going to weld small areas either use a temp gun or get it hot ie around 400 degrees and then proceed to weld the points at which the mesh will be close enough and get good penetration.
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:53 PM   #5
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The entire Artec kit is like $250 shipped
- truss
- Ca skids
- Upper and lower gussets
- track bar mount (stock or raised)

I already replaced the ball joints but we are doing Currie bushings as well. We are pulling the axle
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tob View Post
Brut, a few questions regarding the sleeve/truss work...

I take it you disassembled the entire rear prior to welding. But I still see the factory ball joints left in. With their Teflon sleeves, is there a worry about the heat from nearby welding?

Was the cast carrier portion preheated and post weld cooled when welded? Did you use a different filler rod for either the cast carrier area or the forged 'C' ends? Did you Mig the whole thing or Tig any of it?
I have Artec kits front and rear.

When we did the fronts we took it all apart and welded the truss on to the axle on a table away from the truck.

We did that one in a driveway.

The second time I did it, I did the rear at Rock Krawler in NY State. I had them putting the coilovers in and asked that they do the rear truss. If anyone's rigs cannot fail on the trail, its these guys.

Nate welded it on, in about an hour. brushed the paint laid the truss on in the rear, and zipped it on faster than I expected.

When he was done, I asked if my gears were melted because they were still in there when he worked. He laughed at me. Thats about 1500 miles ago now.

I've come to think we are more delicate with this stuff than we need to be.
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:15 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Nitro makes a pound in sleeve but I'd opt for weld In.


Unless you plan on upgrading the factory lockers on a Rubin to an ARB. You have to be able to fit a 35 spline shaft through the axle and the Nitro will, were all the weld in ones I know of don't. That makes s if something hasn't changed in the last few months that I haven't heard of yet.
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Old 12-24-2013, 06:29 AM   #8
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What?
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:49 AM   #9
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Unless you plan on upgrading the factory lockers on a Rubin to an ARB. You have to be able to fit a 35 spline shaft through the axle and the Nitro will, were all the weld in ones I know of don't. That makes s if something hasn't changed in the last few months that I haven't heard of yet.
WOW that post was made after working 16 hours then driving 500 miles to get home.

The only locker ARB makes for the D44 front is a 35spline unit and the weld in sleeves have to small of an I.D. to slide a 35spline shaft in. Something to think about when deciding what to go with.
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Old 12-24-2013, 09:35 AM   #10
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The numbers below are from a post of mine from a year ago but the prices should be close. I had flipped back and forth on how I was going to beef up my axle when I went with 35" tires. I was figuring the Artec armor was overkill for my needs and could save money going with gussets and sleeves.

Well . . .

Looking at Synergy parts, I found I could get sleeves and gussets for $165. Then I saw that for an additional $35 I could get control arm armor.

And that brings the total to $200.

So why not spend $250 and re-enforce my axle for anything I might encounter?

Some friends helped my with my Artec kit. I also decided to upgrade my ball joints at the same time (which I recommend).

Went from wimpy to bunches of beefy goodness.



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Old 12-24-2013, 09:46 AM   #11
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:38 AM   #12
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The numbers below are from a post of mine from a year ago but the prices should be close. I had flipped back and forth on how I was going to beef up my axle when I went with 35" tires. I was figuring the Artec armor was overkill for my needs and could save money going with gussets and sleeves. Well . . . Looking at Synergy parts, I found I could get sleeves and gussets for $165. Then I saw that for an additional $35 I could get control arm armor. And that brings the total to $200. So why not spend $250 and re-enforce my axle for anything I might encounter? Some friends helped my with my Artec kit. I also decided to upgrade my ball joints at the same time (which I recommend). Went from wimpy to bunches of beefy goodness.
Exactly. Can't wait for my Artec kit. I'm also going to replace the axle bushings with currie and ruff stuff covers.
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:34 PM   #13
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Isn't welding the Artec truss more involved than sleeves? I should probably check to see what my 4x4 shop would charge but I thought the cost of installation would be substantially more.

Also, how advisable is it do both sleeves and truss? I already have sleeves and gussets on my D30.
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:26 PM   #14
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If you do a weld in sleeve it is way more work. You can weld a truss up without tearing the axle down. You dont have that option with sleeves.
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:42 PM   #15
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If you do a weld in sleeve it is way more work. You can weld a truss up without tearing the axle down. You dont have that option with sleeves.
Unless you plan on ball joints and/or new shafts I would assume ?
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:45 PM   #16
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even if you're removing the knuckles and shafts, there's the additional time of drilling all the plug weld holes in the axle tubes...assuming we're still talking about the weld-in sleeves
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:55 PM   #17
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even if you're removing the knuckles and shafts, there's the additional time of drilling all the plug weld holes in the axle tubes...assuming we're still talking about the weld-in sleeves
Good point. With me and my 07, It was a rusty muddy mess when the shafts were out. Truss FTW
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Old 12-24-2013, 02:04 PM   #18
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Unless you plan on ball joints and/or new shafts I would assume ?
Yup. If you do have one tore down already the order of work involved would be. Weld in sleeves, a truss kit, then the knock in sleeves. (unless you had already managed to bend your axle with your stock tires like I did)
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Old 12-24-2013, 02:10 PM   #19
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WT, I remember a while back (maybe a long while back) you talking about putting a small truss up front, what ever became of that?
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Old 12-24-2013, 02:19 PM   #20
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I did fab up a small truss to put on my long tube also. Nothing special just a bent piece of DOM with some metal that was laying around.

So my setup is knock in sleeves ( that required a huge press and 50,000psi to press them into my bent axle) and a small throw togher truss. C gusset of courses and a RR diff cover. My axle probably sees way more abuse then most and so far nothing has bent any more.

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