I likke the road master tow bars and baseplates if you have air brakes on your rv their brake system works great . Tow daddy ( sold to hopkins) makes a plug and play tow light system for jk jeeps ( no wires to cut and splice)
I use roadmaster 1428 base plates, demco adapter, Readybrute tow bar and aux braking built in. Add one CooltechLLC harness and a roadmaster coil cord and you're set to go for under $1400.00
I use the Currie Enterprise Rock Jock tow plate, Blue Ox tow bar and Patriot breaking system, Cool Tech wiring harness and Toad Charger wiring harness to keep battery charged. have used this set up for about 35,000 miles. You will get many different ideas on how to do it good luck.
Whatever you do please make sure the installer properly torques and uses loctite where required. I have seen multiple vehicles come into the shop with some serious damage from improperly installed tow systems.
It's so easy why not. My RV weighs 31,820 when fully loaded (fuel/water) and it stops fine but I don't want to push it (breaks are $$$$). The readybrute towbar/brake combo works great and I had LOD add towbar hookups when they built the bumper...whole combo is perfect (the readybrake cable stows behind the plate when not in use).
For the price of aux braking, why wouldn't you have it? In some states it a law. I would not want to be the guy in front of you in an emergency stop without it.
Just got my whole toad setup two weeks and a few hundred miles ago. Roadmaster twist lock brackets on the Jeep, Demco Commander Tow Bar, and SMI Stay-in-Play hard wired auxillary braking system. I'm really happy with it and the SMI brakes are top notch and are proportionate to how hard I hit the brakes in the coach. All said and done with installation $3300. Installation cost is what got me, but they did a great job and I didn't want to tackle it.
I have a Blue Ox BX1126 base plate for any year 07 - 15 Wrangler (non-10A) bumper. I'd like to offer it to any WF member for free. I'm in Peoria Az. If you can come by and pick it up it's yours. PM me if interested.
i also use an LoD bumper with the tow tabs welded on so i don't have an ugly baseplate showing. I have a cooltech tow lighting harness i sent to LoD which they cut a perfect hole for in the bumper before they finished it and sent to me. I also use the readybrute elite like others here because its so simple and better than the other supplemental braking systems out there.
I have the Falcon all terrain tow bar by Roadmaster that works great, when lining up the tow bar to hook up with the RV the tow bar doesn’t have to be exactly straight. I also got the Air Force 1 braking system by SMI.
I towed my 2013 behind a small winnabago class A. I went over board on a custom bumper with the the towing pintles on welded plate and also the Mopar towed vehicle wiring install. What was not overboard was the brake system by M&G which used air to actuated the the power breaks in the Jeep. Read about it here:M & G Engineering - Car Braking Systems: Home Page
We did several mountain trips and stop and go with tourist traffic at Yosemite and other places. I heard complaints about every system except this one and I never had a problem. If you're close to Texas they'll put it in for free. When I sold the 13 the buyer was giving me crap about the brake. I sent him the s&G site info and the reviews on iRV2. Sold the next day for what I was asking and no more BS about the brake. We had a few scary moments with breaking in traffic but never an issue with this system.
And...as posted above, the cops do check on breakaways; we were checked in ID and WY.
I towed my 2013 behind a small winnabago class A. I went over board on a custom bumper with the the towing pintles on welded plate and also the Mopar towed vehicle wiring install. What was not overboard was the brake system by M&G which used air to actuated the the power breaks in the Jeep. Read about it here:M & G Engineering - Car Braking Systems: Home Page
We did several mountain trips and stop and go with tourist traffic at Yosemite and other places. I heard complaints about every system except this one and I never had a problem. If you're close to Texas they'll put it in for free. When I sold the 13 the buyer was giving me crap about the brake. I sent him the s&G site info and the reviews on iRV2. Sold the next day for what I was asking and no more BS about the brake. We had a few scary moments with breaking in traffic but never an issue with this system.
And...as posted above, the cops do check on breakaways; we were checked in ID and WY.
M&G uses air pressure from the rv's air brake system (not a vacuum like some of the other systems). It's by far the best if you want to spend the money.
Looking for advice on balancing a lift and tires with towability. Are any of you towing a JKU w/ ~3" lift on 35's? How quickly does the weight start to add up w/ lifts, steel bumper and winch? I'll be pulling with a gas class A only rated to tow 5,000 lbs, so trying to keep the weight down, too. Appreciate your thoughts and experience!
Ultimately your best bet is to weigh the JKU, but you could be getting close to that limit with all you are talking about. Keep in mind you don't have the weight on the hitch, it's pushing the RV so the GVWR is also something to consider. If your motorhome is say 29,000 GVWR and it's loaded weight is 27,000 you already are over the limit with a stock JKU. If you are not too close to the GVWR then I wouldn't have an issue pulling a JKU that is close to the limit or even a tick over. BTW, that's one of the big reasons I went to a DP and a 10,000 lb hitch.
Thanks, MACNKAT. Do you pull the white JKU in your profile pic? Any issues with the horizontal alignment of your tow bar or the oversized tires tracking behind your MH?
Yes I tow the one in the pic. 33X12.5 tires, Rampage bumper and Q9000S winch. The alignment on my setup is almost perfectly flat. The JKU is about an inch higher than the hitch mount. But I have a very modest lift with the 2" leveling kit. I had a gas Bounder that had the hitch much higher and was towing a 2006 Liberty. The Bounder was about 2" higher than the Jeep but still within the recommended 4" difference.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ask a question
Ask a question
Jeep Wrangler Forum
9M posts
468K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Jeep Wrangler owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about reviews, performance, trail riding, gear, suspension, tires, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, for all JL, JT, JK, TJ, YJ, and CJ models!