Al right.... I'm using this as a motivational thread, but I need everybody's help to light a fire under my ass.
The jeeps been broke for over a year. Long work hours and laziness prevented me from doing this. I have a freakin van for a DD. 0 worries if something goes wrong and jeep sits for a while.
Here's what will be done
- passenger u-joint
- driver side axle seal leaks (both)
- rubicon locker actuator (broke it)
I almost guarantee hiccups so I'll be coming here for help. I watched a few youtube videos but if anybody has any pointers ... Please post.
Fwiw ... I'm going for the axle today. I have access to a press at work if the u-joint won't separate :thumb:
If things go perfectly .. The other side and maybe break into the differential.
Why not replace the unit-bearings while you have it apart? Or better yet why not a replacement of superior strength and design? What broke first? Or was a series of things that all failed one right after the other?
You know what .. I just thought about replacing the bearings. they appear ok ... Maybe my mind will change
My Jk has 60k and last year my driver side joint started making noises. The shop I brought it to could not find the right u-joints. Not sure if anybody knows .. But jeep likes to tell people we need new shafts as well discontinuing the u-joint.
Spicer does still make it under a new number.
The joints I have are OEM older stock i found at a jeep rally last year.
The shop only replaced one. Now the other side is showing play with a clicking noise.
Both have to come out, my plans may change.
As long as I clean everything up and Anti-sieze. Swapping out will be a breeze.
Fwiw .,,, 2013 JK's have a stronger shafts up front,
The wide tires and low backspace wheels we use are more detrimental to wheel bearings than more mass or severe operating conditions are. Wouldn't dissasembly of the bearing be required to see how it is doing? But then it wouldn't go back together so well I guess. Seems like cheap insurance against potential future failure of the bearing at an inconvenient time on the trail. I would think it's easier to do it now since you are already taking your front axle apart. Soon enough I'll be throwing my wheel bearings in the garbage and getting manual hubs, I only have one vehicle so reliability is extremely important to me. Someone mentioned that drive slugs are stronger, but then again I just have a Dana 44 up front. What year did they start using different front axle-shafts and u-joints?
Drivers side took me all but 1/2 hr <---- seasoned professional here lol
Little trick I stumbled across last night. Use a bolt/socket (21mm brake bolt works perfect) in between a axle ear and the housing. Use the steering to pop the hub out.
Rock auto.com has them bearing cheap. I think they're only 100 bucks or so on there.
Edit, just checked and it's only $80 and some change. Just can't get the link to work. That's where I got mine when I replaced them a year ago and still holding up
My "stock" Timken unit bearings. Pretty bummed to find out the Timken joint is rebranded Lljim which is the same as what I'm pulling out.
At least the peace of mind will be there and I'll have 2 spares if needed.
If all go's well. A local member offered his press tool and help to do the seals. Hopefully Sunday for the seals. I'll finish reinstalling everything Sunday if I have time. If not by weeks end.
So glad I finally tackled this. For anybody that has a bad u-joint(s), seals or bearings. This job is not hard at all. With everything coated with anti seize, replacing u-joints/bearings should take one a hour or two ..tops :thumb:
Does anybody know the seal depth on a front 44 ?. Should of looked before knocking them out.
Right now we got them right passed the bevel at the end of the tube.
Will the seal stop at that point ? The seals are not perfectly straight. It almost seams impossible to set them perfect. By eye everything looks good until pressed in fully.
Now, if there is a surface for the seal to back against. The seal would be forced to center.
I so wish you would have done all of this a week ago, I just went threw ALL of this . Ended up having to buy a whole new axle shaft w/ U joint ( 420.00 bucks ) . New bearing hub cause I couldn't get the old one off ( 120.00 ) All because of lack of knowledge . Sure if enough time passed SOMEONE would have eventually told me these things , but I didn't have time . My jeep is a daily driver HAD to fix it ASAP . There are many skilled jeep owners here but I have noticed there is only a handful of jeep know it alls if u get my point. I'm glad you got your jeep fixed buddy ive learned so much from this any many other issues here... Knowledge is power !!
I would agree Ken, but seal shoulders are about the cheapest pot metal I have ever seen. You can bend them up pretty good with little to no effort. Bob K.
Well I said eff it and bought new seals. Since I have the greatest of luck ... Everything will go back and in and I'll leave a trail if diff juice down the street lol
Two new seals and a kick ass Yukon seal driver.
Now I can take and shove one in and see if it stops/seats up against something :thumb:
The homemade driver worked great. Knocked the seal in flush with the tube. A socket/press driver finished seating it.
Ordered but never received new seals. I feel these are perfectly fine and going to run them.
Hopefully I get around to re-installing the carrier this weekend. The rest should be a breeze.
Just maybe this thread will help somebody in the future. Kind of surprised there's not more info on this on the forums. Especially w/ the older JK's.
I would love to have this thing back together this weekend
I cut a dowel pin to hold the locker plunger open.
Clean up some rust, and should be smooth sailing, unless the Carrier gives me a fight going in
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