U-joint/axle seal project - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 09-01-2014, 11:38 AM   #1
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
U-joint/axle seal project

Al right.... I'm using this as a motivational thread, but I need everybody's help to light a fire under my ass.

The jeeps been broke for over a year. Long work hours and laziness prevented me from doing this. I have a freakin van for a DD. 0 worries if something goes wrong and jeep sits for a while.


Here's what will be done
- passenger u-joint
- driver side axle seal leaks (both)
- rubicon locker actuator (broke it)

U-joint # 5004881
Seals # 0514852ab
6 new hub bolts # 05012436ab
Actuator clip # 6800357aa

I almost guarantee hiccups so I'll be coming here for help. I watched a few youtube videos but if anybody has any pointers ... Please post.

Fwiw ... I'm going for the axle today. I have access to a press at work if the u-joint won't separate
If things go perfectly .. The other side and maybe break into the differential.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1502902885.jpg
Views:	102
Size:	171.3 KB
ID:	1445073  

kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 01:12 PM   #2
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Success ...

To my surprise, we did anti-seize the hub bolts
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-735468986.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	178.5 KB
ID:	1445505   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3879902290.jpg
Views:	83
Size:	190.1 KB
ID:	1445513  

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3478640790.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	147.1 KB
ID:	1445521   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2565693771.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	167.9 KB
ID:	1445529  

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3908879553.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	154.5 KB
ID:	1445545   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-64410348.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	149.5 KB
ID:	1445617  


kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 01:13 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
computeruser6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 208
Why not replace the unit-bearings while you have it apart? Or better yet why not a replacement of superior strength and design? What broke first? Or was a series of things that all failed one right after the other?
computeruser6 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 01:38 PM   #4
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
You know what .. I just thought about replacing the bearings. they appear ok ... Maybe my mind will change


My Jk has 60k and last year my driver side joint started making noises. The shop I brought it to could not find the right u-joints. Not sure if anybody knows .. But jeep likes to tell people we need new shafts as well discontinuing the u-joint.
Spicer does still make it under a new number.
The joints I have are OEM older stock i found at a jeep rally last year.

The shop only replaced one. Now the other side is showing play with a clicking noise.
Both have to come out, my plans may change.
As long as I clean everything up and Anti-sieze. Swapping out will be a breeze.

Fwiw .,,, 2013 JK's have a stronger shafts up front,
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1882598354.jpg
Views:	84
Size:	186.5 KB
ID:	1445665  
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 02:14 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
computeruser6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 208
The wide tires and low backspace wheels we use are more detrimental to wheel bearings than more mass or severe operating conditions are. Wouldn't dissasembly of the bearing be required to see how it is doing? But then it wouldn't go back together so well I guess. Seems like cheap insurance against potential future failure of the bearing at an inconvenient time on the trail. I would think it's easier to do it now since you are already taking your front axle apart. Soon enough I'll be throwing my wheel bearings in the garbage and getting manual hubs, I only have one vehicle so reliability is extremely important to me. Someone mentioned that drive slugs are stronger, but then again I just have a Dana 44 up front. What year did they start using different front axle-shafts and u-joints?
computeruser6 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 02:41 PM   #6
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Not sure .. I think they are trying to sell the new upgrade to all if you come in for service,

Google "u-joint jeep Jk rubicon"


Joint is out. The shaft is going with me to work,
Clean it up and check for straight. We also have a press to put the new joint in.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2389088128.jpg
Views:	72
Size:	132.1 KB
ID:	1445961  
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 02:51 PM   #7
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by computeruser6 View Post
The wide tires and low backspace wheels we use are more detrimental to wheel bearings than more mass or severe operating conditions are. Wouldn't dissasembly of the bearing be required to see how it is doing? But then it wouldn't go back together so well I guess. Seems like cheap insurance against potential future failure of the bearing at an inconvenient time on the trail. I would think it's easier to do it now since you are already taking your front axle apart. Soon enough I'll be throwing my wheel bearings in the garbage and getting manual hubs, I only have one vehicle so reliability is extremely important to me. Someone mentioned that drive slugs are stronger, but then again I just have a Dana 44 up front. What year did they start using different front axle-shafts and u-joints?
Why are you going manual hubs btw ? Expensive upgrade.
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 03:21 PM   #8
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
I destroyed the shield. Should I beat it back to shape. Replace with new or run worth out ?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2085525933.jpg
Views:	66
Size:	170.9 KB
ID:	1446049  
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 03:29 PM   #9
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,179
Smile

Your Jeep is crying, Ken. I can hear it, all the way over here in Wisconsin.
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 03:31 PM   #10
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,179
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I destroyed the shield. Should I beat it back to shape. Replace with new or run worth out ?
This is just me, but:

1. Replace.

2. Beat back into shape and use it.

3. Run without.

With a big emphasis on #1.
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 03:36 PM   #11
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
This is just me, but: 1. Replace. 2. Beat back into shape and use it. 3. Run without. With a big emphasis on #1.
What up

I noticed the shield sits between the knuckle and bearing. Not sure if it can be ran without or not.

I'm going to beat it back and try it ... Thanks.
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 03:37 PM   #12
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
Your Jeep is crying, Ken. I can hear it, all the way over here in Wisconsin.
It's tearing axle fluid lol
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 03:43 PM   #13
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
kbwwolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12,179
Long time no see, dawg.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I noticed the shield sits between the knuckle and bearing. Not sure if it can be ran without or not.
I'm not sure, either. You've far exceeded my feeble mechanical abilities. But I do know that you don't wanna be the negative test case. The list above is my order of preference, nothing more. Based solely on life experience.

Has your rig been idle for a year?
__________________


"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
—John Lubbock
kbwwolf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 04:00 PM   #14
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
No, I've driven it more this Summer then last.
I have to shove a rag in the knuckle to keep axle fluid off the old lady's driveway
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-01-2014, 04:02 PM   #15
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Idle
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4222613720.jpg
Views:	71
Size:	198.0 KB
ID:	1446177  
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2014, 06:44 PM   #16
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Drivers side took me all but 1/2 hr <---- seasoned professional here lol

Little trick I stumbled across last night. Use a bolt/socket (21mm brake bolt works perfect) in between a axle ear and the housing. Use the steering to pop the hub out.

Ikkk
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2818157891.jpg
Views:	40
Size:	131.1 KB
ID:	1450209   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2674182030.jpg
Views:	40
Size:	128.8 KB
ID:	1450225  

kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2014, 07:01 PM   #17
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Bad seal .... Yeup
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-110152536.jpg
Views:	47
Size:	126.9 KB
ID:	1450337   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-70566828.jpg
Views:	51
Size:	147.7 KB
ID:	1450345  

kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2014, 09:43 PM   #18
Jeeper
 
computeruser6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Why are you going manual hubs btw ? Expensive upgrade.
People spend countless thousands of dollars on larger tires, lift kits, driveshafts, balljoints, shocks, and steering components. Hell, some people spend a thousand dollars on new headlights and stereo systems. Many things we do to our Jeeps and 4x4s are expensive, so that alone is not reason enough to at least not have me consider a better solution.
When near stock width tires and wheels with higher backspacing are used the load placed upon the bearing is balanced and even severe operating conditions can be tolerated for an extended amount of time. When we add our fat tires and low backspace wheels the bearing load is nowhere near balanced and the bearing life will suffer accordingly with a larger effect than more mass or off-road use will have. The stock front wheel bearing is adequate for near stock wheel and tire assemblies but not meant for what is often placed up them. Whether someone gets a Dana 60 with a drive slug, manual hubs for a Dana 44, or even retrofits a larger unitbearing to a stock axle a stronger bearing is simply a better choice. If I was willing to buy a Tera44 housing for more strength and stronger brackets why not eliminate the relatively weak link of my axle? When I can I like to base my decisions off of what I buy from documents that have show what the component can handle, like this specification sheet from Dana Corporation showing what the Dana 44 rear axle can handle. Based upon this I have confidence that the axle and GKN locker the Rubicon comes with can handle 35" tires just fine. After seeing axle failures like the ones here online and one failure in person I would prefer to avoid such damage. If something in the axle decides to fail or grenade on itself I can just turn a knob and go away in 2WD. I only have the money for one good vehicle so I think it's worth. This is just my tiny two cents though.
computeruser6 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-02-2014, 09:52 PM   #19
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Plus you can run a steeper driveshaft angle = more caster
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-03-2014, 02:17 PM   #20
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
New joint. Hand press makes things easier
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1594780096.jpg
Views:	45
Size:	198.7 KB
ID:	1452529  
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-04-2014, 10:44 AM   #21
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Decided on buying new Timkin bearings. 60k .. Bigger meats and for only $180, Makes sense to me.
Attached Images
 
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-04-2014, 12:31 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
RemoJK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,344
Images: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Decided on buying new Timkin bearings. 60k .. Bigger meats and for only $180, Makes sense to me.
Rock auto.com has them bearing cheap. I think they're only 100 bucks or so on there.

Edit, just checked and it's only $80 and some change. Just can't get the link to work. That's where I got mine when I replaced them a year ago and still holding up
__________________

2008 Rubi

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f23/wf-...ml#post8251537
Rausch Creek ride^^
RemoJK is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-04-2014, 01:21 PM   #23
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by RemoJK View Post
Rock auto.com has them bearing cheap. I think they're only 100 bucks or so on there. Edit, just checked and it's only $80 and some change. Just can't get the link to work. That's where I got mine when I replaced them a year ago and still holding up
X2 = $180
That's where I bought them.
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-04-2014, 03:07 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
RemoJK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,344
Images: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
X2 = $180 That's where I bought them.
Ya after I read that I did see you said bearings and not bearing. Good stuff, I was hoping it wasn't 180 for one
__________________

2008 Rubi

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f23/wf-...ml#post8251537
Rausch Creek ride^^
RemoJK is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-06-2014, 05:01 AM   #25
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
My "stock" Timken unit bearings. Pretty bummed to find out the Timken joint is rebranded Lljim which is the same as what I'm pulling out.
At least the peace of mind will be there and I'll have 2 spares if needed.

If all go's well. A local member offered his press tool and help to do the seals. Hopefully Sunday for the seals. I'll finish reinstalling everything Sunday if I have time. If not by weeks end.

So glad I finally tackled this. For anybody that has a bad u-joint(s), seals or bearings. This job is not hard at all. With everything coated with anti seize, replacing u-joints/bearings should take one a hour or two ..tops
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4168082324.jpg
Views:	34
Size:	114.5 KB
ID:	1460569  
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-07-2014, 05:39 PM   #26
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Does anybody know the seal depth on a front 44 ?. Should of looked before knocking them out.
Right now we got them right passed the bevel at the end of the tube.

Ty
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-07-2014, 09:43 PM   #27
Jeeper
 
highwayman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Yucaipa
Posts: 682
That's good. IIRC there was a slight ridge I pressed the seal back onto. I'd think you'd he able to feel it on yours though if there was one.
highwayman is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-08-2014, 07:16 AM   #28
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Pics
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-312230313.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	154.8 KB
ID:	1467162   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4032790350.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	129.8 KB
ID:	1467170  

kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-08-2014, 07:21 AM   #29
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 36,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by highwayman View Post
That's good. IIRC there was a slight ridge I pressed the seal back onto. I'd think you'd he able to feel it on yours though if there was one.
Will the seal stop at that point ? The seals are not perfectly straight. It almost seams impossible to set them perfect. By eye everything looks good until pressed in fully.

Now, if there is a surface for the seal to back against. The seal would be forced to center.
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-08-2014, 11:51 AM   #30
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 2,987
There should have been a small shoulder to stop it. Note: it will not take much to bump it over that small machined shoulder.


Bob K.

nwbronco is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




Download our Mobile App

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:36 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC