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Old 03-26-2014, 08:43 AM   #1
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What's your favorite SS with 35's?

Well I rather replace it sooner rather than later now that I have 35's on. I don't necessarily need the most hardcore SS, but just wanted to get everyones input on what they like.

Thanks!

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Old 03-26-2014, 09:13 AM   #2
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Well I rather replace it sooner rather than later now that I have 35's on. I don't necessarily need the most hardcore SS, but just wanted to get everyones input on what they like. Thanks!
It depends on your needs, wants and usage. If you're going to do any wheeling I'd say this:

http://m.quadratec.com/products/prod...pid=16091+2016

The reason being that relocates it up and out of the way of the first angry rock. Also it's a much better stabilizer than stock too IMHO



If you really want to notice a HUGE difference and the most high tech piece of equipment (as far as bolt on stuff goes) get this:

http://m.quadratec.com/products/prod...gid=16355+200X

Crazy awesome!!! It's also a beautiful piece of art. Sometimes I just am in awe as to that baby!

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Old 03-26-2014, 10:22 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwork4sushi View Post
Well I rather replace it sooner rather than later now that I have 35's on. I don't necessarily need the most hardcore SS, but just wanted to get everyones input on what they like.

Thanks!
You con't really need to beef up your Steering Stabilizer unless there is something wrong with the one you have. The stabilizer will help to absorb some of the initial shock when you hit a bump, but that's about all they're good for. If you find you have some bad steering behavior since installing the big tires (they magnify previously existing conditions) I would recommend a dry steering test to find and fix the root of the problem or looking at your geometry for issues. A new stabilizer may cover up steering issues, but it will not fix them.

Let me know if you have any questions!

-Ryan
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:06 PM   #4
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It depends on your needs, wants and usage. If you're going to do any wheeling I'd say this:

Old Man Emu Steering Stabilizer with Relocation Bracket | Jeep Parts and Accessories | Quadratec

The reason being that relocates it up and out of the way of the first angry rock. Also it's a much better stabilizer than stock too IMHO



If you really want to notice a HUGE difference and the most high tech piece of equipment (as far as bolt on stuff goes) get this:

Fox Racing 2.0 Performance Series ATS Steering Stabilizer | Jeep Parts and Accessories | Quadratec

Crazy awesome!!! It's also a beautiful piece of art. Sometimes I just am in awe as to that baby!
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You con't really need to beef up your Steering Stabilizer unless there is something wrong with the one you have. The stabilizer will help to absorb some of the initial shock when you hit a bump, but that's about all they're good for. If you find you have some bad steering behavior since installing the big tires (they magnify previously existing conditions) I would recommend a dry steering test to find and fix the root of the problem or looking at your geometry for issues. A new stabilizer may cover up steering issues, but it will not fix them.

Let me know if you have any questions!

-Ryan

Thanks for the input guys. In conjunction with the 2.5 coil lift, I can definitely feel a little bump steer. The steering feels a little "floaty" at times as well. I figured with such a heavy tire (Toyo Open Country M/T), that the SS really will take a beating.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:14 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by willwork4sushi View Post
Thanks for the input guys. In conjunction with the 2.5 coil lift, I can definitely feel a little bump steer. The steering feels a little "floaty" at times as well. I figured with such a heavy tire (Toyo Open Country M/T), that the SS really will take a beating.
Like Ryan stated check out all suspension components, but also make sure you have a good alignment done. I recommend a 4 wheel alignment to start, then from there out you can just dial in toe to spec (front end only)

If you can get behind the wheel of a similar jeep with the FOX ATS 2.0 steering stabilizer, do it. It's very expensive but really makes driving a lifted Jeep even more fun and a hell of a lot safer IMHO.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:28 PM   #6
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Read my caster thread in the sticky area :whittling:
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:29 PM   #7
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Like Ryan stated check out all suspension components, but also make sure you have a good alignment done. I recommend a 4 wheel alignment to start, then from there out you can just dial in toe to spec (front end only)

If you can get behind the wheel of a similar jeep with the FOX ATS 2.0 steering stabilizer, do it. It's very expensive but really makes driving a lifted Jeep even more fun and a hell of a lot safer IMHO.
So it's possible that a proper alignment could really alleviate bump steer? The interesting thing was after install my 2.5" lift the steering was still dead center.

Do you think the FOX ATS 2.0 is really worth it for a Jeep that will see moderate off-roading? Nothing insane. I can definitely justify the money for it if it's truly worth it.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:29 PM   #8
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Read my caster thread in the sticky area :whittling:
Ok, I'll do just that!
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:54 PM   #9
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Fox ats
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:01 PM   #10
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Let the tits wear off on your tires at the floaty feeling will go away. I put toyo mt 35's on mine and i got the light feeling. As soon as the tits wore off problem went away.
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:14 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by willwork4sushi View Post
So it's possible that a proper alignment could really alleviate bump steer? The interesting thing was after install my 2.5" lift the steering was still dead center.

Do you think the FOX ATS 2.0 is really worth it for a Jeep that will see moderate off-roading? Nothing insane. I can definitely justify the money for it if it's truly worth it.
I agree with posts above about making sure everything is correct. Its not a band aid. But it still has merit in that it will give the steering a much tighter feel, which I prefer. Not everyone cares...
If you're only doing mild wheeling to none- the Fox 2.0 or similar is fine. They're not complicated so I can see where a less expensive one might do the trick as well. My issue with the 2.0 that I have is the Schrader valve- which I've bashed against rocks and lost air. Plus every time you check pressure you lose a few PSI. However chances are slim that as a DD or mild off-roader you'll do the same. I am accident prone. I plan to upgrade to the ATS- but for your situation its probably overkill.
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:30 PM   #12
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So it's possible that a proper alignment could really alleviate bump steer? The interesting thing was after install my 2.5" lift the steering was still dead center. Do you think the FOX ATS 2.0 is really worth it for a Jeep that will see moderate off-roading? Nothing insane. I can definitely justify the money for it if it's truly worth it.
Alleviate yes. To further minimize it would be to add a better steering stabilizer. I bought the ATS for on-road handling first and foremost. The high speed fire roads were also a huge bonus. For slow speed wheeling I'm aired down enough that any stabilizer would be sufficient, but I haven't put on enough low speed crawling yet to give any feedback there. So in short, on road performance is phenomenal. Is it needed, absolutely not. Is it going to be something you will LOVE every time you drive YEEEEEES!

The three mods I wish I did day one is (respectively):

BOLT UPGRADE KIT
FOX 2.0 ATS
& JW SPEAKER HEADLIGHTS

For BOTH performance and safety- two birds one stone
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:35 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by willwork4sushi View Post
Thanks for the input guys. In conjunction with the 2.5 coil lift, I can definitely feel a little bump steer. The steering feels a little "floaty" at times as well. I figured with such a heavy tire (Toyo Open Country M/T), that the SS really will take a beating.
True bump steer is caused by the track bar and drag link being out of parallel, causing them to move in different arcs when the suspension cycles. If they're only slightly out of parallel a steering stabilizer may cover up the issue. However the right thing to do would make the track bar and drag link parallel to eliminate the issue.

Do you have any drop brackets or a different pitman arm on your Jeep? We should be able to eliminate your bump steer issue.

-Ryan
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:37 PM   #14
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Sounds like what a lot of 2.5 inch lifts produce, a light feeling in the steering due to the different geometry of the front axle and suspension. CA drop brackets or adjustable lowers seem to cure the problem. I'd start there and if that doesn't fix the issue, then maybe you've got another problem but if the feeling appeared immediately after the lift, the changed geometry is probably the issue.
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:45 PM   #15
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Bumpsteer shouldn't be a problem unless there's 3-4" of actual height.
Read through the newby's thread on lifting as well.
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:52 PM   #16
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run your factory one till it dies then go with a 30 dollar monroe from the auto parts store.
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Old 03-26-2014, 05:03 PM   #17
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Teraflex 9550 vss. It isnt charged like the gas shocks so it wont produce that "push" to the left everyone complains about. Bigger and beefier than the stocker so it handles jolts and bigger tires a little better. Has a hard dust cover on it (thought it was kind of cool being that its right in the front and i live in the salt belt and i hate real boots) and lastly looks cool and is cheap! Lol like 60 bucks if i remember correctly.
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:48 PM   #18
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Overinflated tires will cause the floaty feeling.

I plan on getting the OME relocate one linked at the top once my stock one gets too bashed.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:51 PM   #19
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Surprised Lee did not mention this

OP. What is your toe spec ? The factory spec can be as much as 1/4" in
W/ 35's your not going to be able to run toe in that much. Check toe and adjust to 1/8" total in,
This is about .08 on each side.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:38 PM   #20
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Surprised Lee did not mention this OP. What is your toe spec ? The factory spec can be as much as 1/4" in W/ 35's your not going to be able to run toe in that much. Check toe and adjust to 1/8" total in, This is about .08 on each side.
Great info and discussion as always guys. Honestly, I don't know my current toe, because I haven't gotten an alignment. I was going to wait and get some adjustable control arms before I did that (sooner rather than later) or should I just go get one now?

Also, I have a stock pitman and drag link. Everything is stock on the suspension besides a 2.5" coil lift.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:03 PM   #21
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Get the alignment done. You may find caster to be within limits but toe is not.

My factory toe was almost 1/4" in,
and the shop could not turn the rusty turnbuckle. Eventually I was able to turn it using heat and the jeep handled better. Can't say it was a bump steer issue, More of a tracking cure.

I like having a alignment done to get a baseline for caster/toe- if you do plan on arms.
Taking measurements in your driveway and comparing them to actual alignment specs.
Mine for example. Caster was only about .5* different. So now when I do arms, I add .5 to what I measure in my driveway. Toe was way off. My driveway measurement was about 1/8 lower. So for 1/8 in I set 0
Hope this makes sense ?
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:12 PM   #22
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Get the alignment done. You may find caster to be within limits but toe is not. My factory toe was almost 1/4" in, and the shop could not turn the rusty turnbuckle. Eventually I was able to turn it using heat and the jeep handled better. Can't say it was a bump steer issue, More of a tracking cure. I like having a alignment done to get a baseline for caster/toe- if you do plan on arms. Taking measurements in your driveway and comparing them to actual alignment specs. Mine for example. Caster was only about .5* different. So now when I do arms, I add .5 to what I measure in my driveway. Toe was way off. My driveway measurement was about 1/8 lower. So for 1/8 in I set 0 Hope this makes sense ?
Great info as always from you Kjeeper. I'll definitely setup an appointment to get an alignment done. Do you think enough can be adjusted with the stock control arms?

And yes, it did make sense after reading it twice. Haha.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:18 PM   #23
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Lol... Thank you.

The only stock adjustment is toe (tie rod) and steer straight (drag link) Grab a printout for later when/if you decide on arms for caster. Camber is not adjustable either. If the camber is out of spec, it could be bad ball joints or bent C (knuckle)
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:35 PM   #24
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Lol... Thank you. The only stock adjustment is toe (tie rod) and steer straight (drag link) Grab a printout for later when/if you decide on arms for caster. Camber is not adjustable either. If the camber is out of spec, it could be bad ball joints or bent C (knuckle)
But you think for sure my toe is off?
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:54 PM   #25
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Toyo open country mt's cause a floaty feeling because the tread is flat and blocked on the sidewall. Air up, air down, replace the stabilizer, get a couple of alignments, replace the control arms and then come back to the tires. I have no problem selling somebody something they want but I never recommend toyos because 1 out of 20 sets drift and float.
As for the stabilizer...take it off and throw it in the garbage. Then replace it with...nothing. Get proper steering components with the money you would spend on control arms and a bunch of alignments and it will tighten things right up. As for running HP stabilizers...all they effectively do is put more pressure on the plastic sleeved stock steering components and when those wear out transfer the load straight to your steering box mount and sector shaft.
Pics are worth 1000 words so here is the beaten undercarriage of my 10 on 37's with a busted track bar bushing and 2 shot control arm joints that I drive daily with no major issues. Before the flames start in...I had a really just trip 6 days ago that beat up a lot of joints really quickly...all will be good when my parts come in over the next few days. Oh yeah...and no death wobble.
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:39 AM   #26
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Overinflated tires will cause the floaty feeling. I plan on getting the OME relocate one linked at the top once my stock one gets too bashed.
Great point. Some of us run 27-30 psi in our 35's

What are you at?
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:53 AM   #27
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But you think for sure my toe is off?

Wouldn't be the first time.
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:36 AM   #28
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Toyo open country mt's cause a floaty feeling because the tread is flat and blocked on the sidewall. Air up, air down, replace the stabilizer, get a couple of alignments, replace the control arms and then come back to the tires. I have no problem selling somebody something they want but I never recommend toyos because 1 out of 20 sets drift and float.
As for the stabilizer...take it off and throw it in the garbage. Then replace it with...nothing. Get proper steering components with the money you would spend on control arms and a bunch of alignments and it will tighten things right up. As for running HP stabilizers...all they effectively do is put more pressure on the plastic sleeved stock steering components and when those wear out transfer the load straight to your steering box mount and sector shaft.
Pics are worth 1000 words so here is the beaten undercarriage of my 10 on 37's with a busted track bar bushing and 2 shot control arm joints that I drive daily with no major issues. Before the flames start in...I had a really just trip 6 days ago that beat up a lot of joints really quickly...all will be good when my parts come in over the next few days. Oh yeah...and no death wobble.
Interesting...so you suggest I just running now SS?

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Great point. Some of us run 27-30 psi in our 35's

What are you at?
I'm running 29 psi at the moment.
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:48 AM   #29
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Great info as always from you Kjeeper. I'll definitely setup an appointment to get an alignment done. Do you think enough can be adjusted with the stock control arms?

And yes, it did make sense after reading it twice. Haha.

forget that paying someone to adjust your toe. 70$ for something that takes 5 min
grab a tape measure and a extra set of hands.
Measure from mold seam to mold seam of your tires on the front face.

then go to the rear of the front tire and do the same.

the front should be 1/8th closer together.

if its not adjust this thing till it does



send me half the money you would have wasted and ill buy beer and sushi i guess. ill probably give the dog the sushi tho.

and i apologize for using projecjk pictures its all i could find on short notice. i need to make my own alignment thread.
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:03 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Surprised Lee did not mention this

OP. What is your toe spec ? The factory spec can be as much as 1/4" in
W/ 35's your not going to be able to run toe in that much. Check toe and adjust to 1/8" total in,
This is about .08 on each side.
I get tired of repeating myself some times. but you are right too much or too little toe in will cause flighty steering.

the theory on a solid axle is that you dont need to do an "alignment" when you lift it but you DO need to adjust toe when you add bigger tires.

think of it this way

if your factory tire is a 31 and the toe was set at 1/8 toe and you lift the toe wont change.

but when you go to a 35 now your leading edge is 1.5 inches farther away. following the angle line it is not hard to imagine that the toe is now 1/4 or more

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