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Old 04-24-2014, 11:56 PM   #1
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Which first? Regear or Lift?

Hello my fellow Jeepers....bear with me.....I'm learning.

I have a 2013 JKUS 3.6L, 3.21, 6 sp manual trans, on stock suspension and tires (255/70/18). This is my DD as well as moderate off road (more than just trails, my husband has a 4x4 also and we go to Lake Tahoe and hit other trails often when we bring the dirtbikes along). Right now there are a few cosmetic updgrades but I want to start my real build.....

My end result/wish list: 35"s on a 2.5-3.5" lift, flat fenders (Poison Spyder), stubby front fender...and much more, I'm just naming what's pertinent to this thread

But that being said so far. I was just about to start buying the stuff for my lift when I started reading around about re-gearing. Now, when I bought this Jeep, I knew I would eventually want to re-gear the 3.21 (but I was hopeful that I wouldn't need to). I wanted a different ratio but I have the Jeep I have so I gotta work with it. It bothers me already not being able to pull power without downshifting. I want more pep. But I love 4L right now!!!! It just creeps right along! Anyway...

My hopes are that y'all will tell me that the 3.21 rocks and I don't have to change anything.
...
yeah didn't think so.
...

Now that I have a couple grand to spend on my Jeep - I want it to be better offroad and look more aggressive but.....now I'm wondering if I'm just going to drop the dough on a stupid re-gearing?!

So, should my first step be: Rancho RS9000xl lift kit (open to suggestions, considered the TF also) on some new 35's (keep the 18's or go for the 17's? are 18's that expensive?) and flat fenders.......
Or do I have to do the re-gear and keep my 32's stock for now? I figure if I re-gear to the 4.1 then it's still okay to run my 32's until I have the money (again) for the lift and new tires. If I do the re-gear, what else do I have to modify knowing that I will be lifting also.
Or should I settle with the fact that I have a 3.21 and just throw some 33's on there, head to the mall and call it a day? (NO WAY!)

Also - my husband wants all this to be done by the dealer and not void warranty. I've read all the threads on here....but there's not one on how to get your husband to change his mind and to save money on labor? Anyone in Bay Area want to suggest local mechanics I'm all ears also.

I'm just stuck on whether I can make my Jeep look more aggressive now, or if I have to save up for that money later after I drop it on a re-gearing issue I shouldn't have anyway.....

Also, I'm planning an off-roading trip the first week of June, so I want to have this baby trail ready (this phase at least) by then if possible.

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Old 04-25-2014, 12:20 AM   #2
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Holy cow batman......
There is no correct answer. There are plenty of people who will chime in that they are "fine" with 3.21s- but you've already noticed a lack of power. But really, re-gearing first doesn't make much sense. I'd suggest doing your lift first- and maybe consider a smaller tire (ie. a 33") to start. I like a little pep- I didn't like 3.21s and my 305s. (33.5 because they're a KM2). However I've seen a lot of people run 33s on 3.21s and been ok. Save your money and get bigger tires (35s) and re-gear at a later date. 33s aren't small- and they don't make you a mall crawler. Chrome does. I KID!
A dealer installed lift is not covered by your Chrysler factory warranty. Plain and simple. Your dealer installed lift may be warranted by the dealer/garage/shop- but it is still an aftermarket component. Which may, or may not, affect parts of your Chrysler factory warranty.

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Old 04-25-2014, 12:43 AM   #3
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I'd go with 35" and a lift first(2.5-3" lift). Terafflex would be a better one than Rancho imho. I have this same set up for almost a year and i run 3:21 axle ratio. I ve done some moderate off roading trips and it was fine. I will re-gear later on with 4:88 because after 35 i will go with 37(i hope). And dont waste your money regearing with 4:10. Its not a big difference and would cost you more than 4:56 or 4:88.

Not sure about all the warranties. I dont really believe in them. They will find a way to not cover you.

As far as the shop: Arabia's overkill. Ask for Jeff. He knows everything about 4x4. Its in bay area.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:53 AM   #4
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I think you don't need flat fenders if you go 2.5" or 3", and you can delay this a bit, you can also cut the airdam and delay the front bumper, you can buy the tire carrier from TF to support 35"

I would say do the regear, lift and 35tires at the same time and the rest latter

to cut the cost further you can delay the shocks a bit but you need shock extensions for the 2.5 or 3" lift

1- 35", regear, 2.5" lift without shocks but shock extension and tire carrier and cut the air dam
2- shocks and front bumper and flat fenders
3- other mods for the front axel to support the 35" tires long term

some people will say you can run 35" with flat fenders

you need pro-cal or similar tool for adjusting the gear ratio and tier size and its also good to zero the TPMS.

if you want 35" and latter 37" you may think about 4.56 gears since 4.10

do not go 33" as intermediate step because it wont help you achieve your end goal.

you need aftermarket rims for backspacing clearance with 35", you can use spacers to save money
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:13 AM   #5
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Having the dealer install ANYTHING won't help your warranty. The axle and suspension warranties will both be gone if you do a lift and a gear swap. In fact, if the dealer does the work, they may even flag your Jeep in the system which could cause other warranty issues down the road.
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:37 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post
Holy cow batman...... There is no correct answer. There are plenty of people who will chime in that they are "fine" with 3.21s- but you've already noticed a lack of power. But really, re-gearing first doesn't make much sense. I'd suggest doing your lift first- and maybe consider a smaller tire (ie. a 33") to start. I like a little pep- I didn't like 3.21s and my 305s. (33.5 because they're a KM2). However I've seen a lot of people run 33s on 3.21s and been ok. Save your money and get bigger tires (35s) and re-gear at a later date. 33s aren't small- and they don't make you a mall crawler. Chrome does. I KID! A dealer installed lift is not covered by your Chrysler factory warranty. Plain and simple. Your dealer installed lift may be warranted by the dealer/garage/shop- but it is still an aftermarket component. Which may, or may not, affect parts of your Chrysler factory warranty.
The dealer installed a Mopar stage 2 lift kit on my new JKURX and it is under warranty. I think if it's a Mopar product you are ok, but non-Mopar products could be an issue.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:06 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by capnttom View Post
The dealer installed a Mopar stage 2 lift kit on my new JKURX and it is under warranty. I think if it's a Mopar product you are ok, but non-Mopar products could be an issue.
It doesn't matter who installed the lift including the dealer if it wasn't Chrysler or Jeep. The dealer, Chrysler or a 3rd party warranty company can also deny warranty service due to a non-factory mod. That doesn't stop most of us but you should be aware of how you will get treated. Read the multiple threads discussing this topic and make the decision that is right for you.

IMO, lift first then gears + tires. Do you really care what people think about how the Jeep looks lifted with smaller tires?
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:53 AM   #8
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It doesn't matter who installed the lift including the dealer if it wasn't Chrysler or Jeep. The dealer, Chrysler or a 3rd party warranty company can also deny warranty service due to a non-factory mod. That doesn't stop most of us but you should be aware of how you will get treated. Read the multiple threads discussing this topic and make the decision that is right for you. IMO, lift first then gears + tires. Do you really care what people think about how the Jeep looks lifted with smaller tires?
That's also not entirely true. Using aftermarket parts doesn't void your warranty. However, your aftermarket parts are obviously not under warranty, and if they're found to be the cause of a problem can lead to your warranty being voided. The problem comes from dealers that will attempt to blame any issue on any possible aftermarket part or modification and attempt to void your warranty as a result. My valve cover gasket sprung a leak at 6k miles, and leaked onto one of the O2 sensors and caused it to fail. The dealership tried to blame it on my intake and exhaust. I got it worked out and everything was covered under warranty, but if I didn't know enough to know that a cold air intake and a cat back exhaust have nothing at all to do with a valve cover gasket, they'd have probably red flagged my warranty in the system.

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In a Consumer Alert issued by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the agency confirmed that “The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny coverage under the warranty simply because you used an aftermarket part.” The alert outlines key provisions in the law that provides protections to car owners. As defined by the FTC, an “aftermarket' part is a part made by a company other than the vehicle manufacturer or the original equipment manufacturer.”

“The FTC’s reference to aftermarket parts is equally applicable to specialty parts,” said Russ Deane, SEMA’s General Counsel. “Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, the warranty cannot be conditioned to a specific brand of parts, services or vehicle modifications unless those parts or services are provided free of charge.”

The alert notes that a consumer has the right to patronize independent retail stores and repair shops for parts and service without fear of voiding the new car warranty. The dealer/vehicle manufacturer has the right to deny a warranty repair but they must demonstrate that the aftermarket part caused the problem. The warranty remains in effect for all other covered parts.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
It doesn't matter who installed the lift including the dealer if it wasn't Chrysler or Jeep. The dealer, Chrysler or a 3rd party warranty company can also deny warranty service due to a non-factory mod. That doesn't stop most of us but you should be aware of how you will get treated. Read the multiple threads discussing this topic and make the decision that is right for you. IMO, lift first then gears + tires. Do you really care what people think about how the Jeep looks lifted with smaller tires?


It's a touch subject. Depends largely on the dealership though.
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Old 04-25-2014, 06:25 AM   #10
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I did the lift and tires first. You will see how the 3.21 is for your style of driving since that 3.6 makes up for alot of things however you have the 6 speed. I have an auto. I went with the 2.5 lift, 315 duratracs and I still have plenty of power with the 3.6 and automatic. I am planning on going to 4.56 or 4.88 in the future but I will give it a summer of 3.21 just because I am busy and dont want the Jeep gone for a couple days. My buddies and I put on the lift in 1 eight hour day. Tell your husband that he is sounding like a woman with the scared warranty talk. Its usually the guys here trying to convince their wifes that they need Jeep stuff. You husband is a lucky guy. Just my opinion. Good Luck. Have fun wheeling. Hell if it brakes out there you arent gonna be able to use the warranty anyway!
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:39 AM   #11
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I'd go with 35" and a lift first(2.5-3" lift). Terafflex would be a better one than Rancho imho. I have this same set up for almost a year and i run 3:21 axle ratio. I ve done some moderate off roading trips and it was fine. I will re-gear later on with 4:88 because after 35 i will go with 37(i hope). And dont waste your money regearing with 4:10. Its not a big difference and would cost you more than 4:56 or 4:88.

Not sure about all the warranties. I dont really believe in them. They will find a way to not cover you.

As far as the shop: Arabia's overkill. Ask for Jeff. He knows everything about 4x4. Its in bay area.
This is great advice - I mapped Arabia's overkill and I've literally driven by that street hundreds of times. I'm actually going to be in that neighborhood this weekend moving out of an apartment. Small world.
Why will a 4.10 cost more than the 4.56? I was just going off gear chart and the fact that I will be on highway almost every day. I'm still researching and learning what actually is going on when you regear and such.

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Originally Posted by iNizo View Post
I think you don't need flat fenders if you go 2.5" or 3", and you can delay this a bit, you can also cut the airdam and delay the front bumper, you can buy the tire carrier from TF to support 35"

I would say do the regear, lift and 35tires at the same time and the rest latter

to cut the cost further you can delay the shocks a bit but you need shock extensions for the 2.5 or 3" lift

1- 35", regear, 2.5" lift without shocks but shock extension and tire carrier and cut the air dam
2- shocks and front bumper and flat fenders
3- other mods for the front axel to support the 35" tires long term

some people will say you can run 35" with flat fenders

you need pro-cal or similar tool for adjusting the gear ratio and tier size and its also good to zero the TPMS.

if you want 35" and latter 37" you may think about 4.56 gears since 4.10

do not go 33" as intermediate step because it wont help you achieve your end goal.

you need aftermarket rims for backspacing clearance with 35", you can use spacers to save money
My first reasoning for the flat fenders is the look - I LOVE (and my husband loves, so it helps if he's on board) flat fenders. These flares are killing me, I just can't get over the look and when I go off road - they're painted - and to scratch them up isn't fun. Especially since I want to replace them.
I agree with 33" not being a good intermediate step. Hubby's goal is to only do a leveling kit and 33's and nothing else so I had to include the possibility. I've already bookmarked a tailgate mount for the larger tire. More expensive than I thought but oh well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
It doesn't matter who installed the lift including the dealer if it wasn't Chrysler or Jeep. The dealer, Chrysler or a 3rd party warranty company can also deny warranty service due to a non-factory mod. That doesn't stop most of us but you should be aware of how you will get treated. Read the multiple threads discussing this topic and make the decision that is right for you.

IMO, lift first then gears + tires. Do you really care what people think about how the Jeep looks lifted with smaller tires?
I've stopped caring about other people. I'm the one that has a puny Jeep and a lifted Tundra in the driveway. I want my Jeep to at least match the trucks intimidation.
My first instinct was lift + tires but then I saw a thread on the gearing and thought I was doing it wrong since I'm starting with a 3.21. Did some research and couldn't find a definite answer, so I'm here asking y'all for opinions. I'm glad I did.

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Originally Posted by Captain Ed View Post
I did the lift and tires first. You will see how the 3.21 is for your style of driving since that 3.6 makes up for alot of things however you have the 6 speed. I have an auto. I went with the 2.5 lift, 315 duratracs and I still have plenty of power with the 3.6 and automatic. I am planning on going to 4.56 or 4.88 in the future but I will give it a summer of 3.21 just because I am busy and dont want the Jeep gone for a couple days. My buddies and I put on the lift in 1 eight hour day. Tell your husband that he is sounding like a woman with the scared warranty talk. Its usually the guys here trying to convince their wifes that they need Jeep stuff. You husband is a lucky guy. Just my opinion. Good Luck. Have fun wheeling. Hell if it brakes out there you arent gonna be able to use the warranty anyway!
LOL - sounding like a woman. Oh if only you knew. jk Yeah there aren't many girls like me , but then again I guess I should be blunt and he is technically an ex-husband but still around, so that may have something to do with not wanting to dump everything into this thing. Also for re-sell he thinks it'll look better if the dealer does everything. I could care less, I want this Jeep until it dies.
So you really are fine, even with an auto? I'm impressed. What kind of driving do you do?
I'm driving over the santa cruz mountains few days a week to get to the beach, so I'm really going to need the pep and power when I ask for it. I also drive the coastline - 65 mph with hills and impatient locals. I'm really trying to figure out how I can do this but not ruin my DD. I also am planning on adding a new front fender down the road - so would the weight is something that I'm factoring into my lift also. But I don't want to be too high now and then ideal only when I install the winch.
My first instinct was the TF lift but then I saw the Rancho kit and got sucked in by the good deal and how I can adjust them. That's a big factor for me.
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:40 AM   #12
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The 9000's are great shocks. Are you looking at the 2" kit ?
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:50 AM   #13
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The 9000's are great shocks. Are you looking at the 2" kit ?
.
yes
This is the deal I saw: Amazon.com: Rancho RS66109BR9 Suspension System: Automotive
It's for the Rancho RS661098BR9 system (in case the link doesnt work)
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:52 AM   #14
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I know a few folks with this lift. Only complaint, on a 4 door the rear is a little low.
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:53 AM   #15
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I am not going to touch on the dealer vs. warranty thing. These guys are mostly correct in that even if the dealer does the work it is not covered by Chrysler.

Also, I like the TF better. Also consider Rock Krawler and Synergy Suspension. Even the AEV 2.5" lift is a good kit for the money.

As for which first, most people do the lift and tires first. In my opinion they should be done at the same time. 3.21 are not awesome, especially with 35's, they are dreadful. Everyone has different tolerances as far as the performance of their vehicle is concerned. If you add 35's and roll on the 3.21 gearing, you will lose MPG, crawl and 6th gear. Which isn't awesome, it shouldn't be acceptable or tolerated. to bring your Jeep back up to stock performance with big tires you really want 4.56 or 4.88 if you plan to go bigger than 35" tires. Another thing to consider would be, if you get a matching spare tire, where are you going to put it? An aftermarket tire carrier is highly recommended for a 35" spare, but that is for a different thread.

I can give you a price on any of the above, any lift you consider, wheels/tires and even a ring & pinion set w/ master install kits.

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Old 04-25-2014, 11:05 AM   #16
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I know a few folks with this lift. Only complaint, on a 4 door the rear is a little low.
I read that thread. I'm glad I'm still researching but I haven't ruled it out yet. I got 2 dogs I get in and out of my trunk but I would like it level.


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I am not going to touch on the dealer vs. warranty thing. These guys are mostly correct in that even if the dealer does the work it is not covered by Chrysler.

Also, I like the TF better. Also consider Rock Krawler and Synergy Suspension. Even the AEV 2.5" lift is a good kit for the money.

As for which first, most people do the lift and tires first. In my opinion they should be done at the same time. 3.21 are not awesome, especially with 35's, they are dreadful. Everyone has different tolerances as far as the performance of their vehicle is concerned. If you add 35's and roll on the 3.21 gearing, you will lose MPG, crawl and 6th gear. Which isn't awesome, it shouldn't be acceptable or tolerated. to bring your Jeep back up to stock performance with big tires you really want 4.56 or 4.88 if you plan to go bigger than 35" tires. Another thing to consider would be, if you get a matching spare tire, where are you going to put it? An aftermarket tire carrier is highly recommended for a 35" spare, but that is for a different thread.

I can give you a price on any of the above, any lift you consider, wheels/tires and even a ring & pinion set w/ master install kits.

-Dan

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Yeah I'm not worried about the warranty subject, I can deal with that earful from my family members.

I've already bookmarked a mount/carrier for the larger spare on the back. Wasn't excited on the cost of that one.

I've read a bit about the AEV 2.5" lift but I haven't researched it yet, I'll put it on my list to look at. Haven't even considered the RK or Synergy.


So, from what I'm learning....I can do the lift and 35's and even though I won't like it right away, I won't be ruining my Jeep by riding it until I get the money for the re-gear (and then decide which to switch to). But ideally do it all at the same time.
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:17 AM   #17
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I've already bookmarked a mount/carrier for the larger spare on the back. Wasn't excited on the cost of that one.

I've read a bit about the AEV 2.5" lift but I haven't researched it yet, I'll put it on my list to look at. Haven't even considered the RK or Synergy.


So, from what I'm learning....I can do the lift and 35's and even though I won't like it right away, I won't be ruining my Jeep by riding it until I get the money for the re-gear (and then decide which to switch to). But ideally do it all at the same time.
Which carrier are you looking at? Maybe I can get a better price for you.

Yeah the AEV is priced with shocks and is good for the money. I also have RK packages, which are priced with shocks too.

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Yes ideally, you would do it all together but I understand budgets. You definitely will not hurt anything running 35's on 3.21 gears for the time being.

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Old 04-25-2014, 11:21 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Laurnerox1 View Post
I read that thread. I'm glad I'm still researching but I haven't ruled it out yet. I got 2 dogs I get in and out of my trunk but I would like it level. Yeah I'm not worried about the warranty subject, I can deal with that earful from my family members. I've already bookmarked a mount/carrier for the larger spare on the back. Wasn't excited on the cost of that one. I've read a bit about the AEV 2.5" lift but I haven't researched it yet, I'll put it on my list to look at. Haven't even considered the RK or Synergy. So, from what I'm learning....I can do the lift and 35's and even though I won't like it right away, I won't be ruining my Jeep by riding it until I get the money for the re-gear (and then decide which to switch to). But ideally do it all at the same time.
It's more front high then rear low (if) you're not running any weight ie bumper/winch.
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:33 AM   #19
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I am not going to touch on the dealer vs. warranty thing. These guys are mostly correct in that even if the dealer does the work it is not covered by Chrysler.

Also, I like the TF better. Also consider Rock Krawler and Synergy Suspension. Even the AEV 2.5" lift is a good kit for the money.

As for which first, most people do the lift and tires first. In my opinion they should be done at the same time. 3.21 are not awesome, especially with 35's, they are dreadful. Everyone has different tolerances as far as the performance of their vehicle is concerned. If you add 35's and roll on the 3.21 gearing, you will lose MPG, crawl and 6th gear. Which isn't awesome, it shouldn't be acceptable or tolerated. to bring your Jeep back up to stock performance with big tires you really want 4.56 or 4.88 if you plan to go bigger than 35" tires. Another thing to consider would be, if you get a matching spare tire, where are you going to put it? An aftermarket tire carrier is highly recommended for a 35" spare, but that is for a different thread.

I can give you a price on any of the above, any lift you consider, wheels/tires and even a ring & pinion set w/ master install kits.

-Dan

-Dan
X2.
Notice Moonrider is fine with 3.21s, but he does plan to re-gear. That's pretty common. I have a friend on 35s and 3.21s and it doesn't bother him a bit. But he used to drive a Lincoln yacht. I lasted 6 mos. on 33s. What gear is "acceptable" is subjective. You have a manual so you have more control over shifting- but you will pretty much lose 6th gear. Lift first, drive it until you hate it, and then re-gear.
You can do a cheap interim fix and pick up some (used) stock fenders and cut them down to flats. Most shops just toss them so they're easy to get free or dirt cheap.
Cost of 4.10s vs. 4.56s is arbitrary- typically they're the same price, but not always. There isn't much difference in gear manufacturer- so just buy which ever ones are priced right at your ratio. I'd go 4.56s- but there are a few hundred threads you can read on ratio.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:18 PM   #20
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So, from what I'm learning....I can do the lift and 35's and even though I won't like it right away, I won't be ruining my Jeep by riding it until I get the money for the re-gear (and then decide which to switch to). But ideally do it all at the same time.
Not regearing right away won't "ruin" you jeep but keep in mind that anytime you adjust suspension and increase tire size and weight you need to consider the impacts it will have.

Heavier tires with a lower backspace will cause more stress on the ball joints, axles, etc. (the ball joints are prone to fail sooner rather than later with the larger tires. Synergy makes a great replacement)

Heavier tires will also affect the braking efficiency, as well as cause the brakes to wear faster.

Another thing to consider is your MPG will drop and acceleration will be more sluggish than when stock. Steering will feel heavier.

Not to be "nay-sayer" but just things to consider before jumping in.

The farther away from stock you go, the more you're gonna have to pay to keep things running smoothly over the long term.

Most of us do this joyfully though (might be considered insane to some).
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:38 PM   #21
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Id say raise it, bigger tires, then gears/lockers. But you will decrease mpg and have sluggishness until complete
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:48 PM   #22
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Personally, I chose to save up the money and do everything all at once. I suffered with a stock JK on stock tires and stock 3.21 gears for almost a full year before I did it all. Lift, tires, gears, selectable lockers front and rear, front axle truss, chrome molly axles, heavy duty diff covers.

I drove the Jeep on the 4.56 gears and the stock 255/75R17 tires for a couple of days because the tires were a few days late in coming. It wasn't horrible but I didn't like driving on the freeway at all.

All in all, I was happy I waited to do everything at once. Sure I had to wait and delay my gratification a little but it's been a great Jeep and entirely worth it now that it's done.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:45 PM   #23
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As i mentioned previously i have 2.5" teraflex and 35" tires with stock 3:21 gear ratio with auto trans and its my DD. I drive it every day on highway as well.

Honestly i didn't see much sluggish performance after changing the tires. The reason why i would regear eventually is because of people on forums saying how nice it is after regear. If i didnt see their posts i would think my jeep runs like a champ lol

And i take it through Santa Cruz mountains every week end or so and i dont see any problems at all. I could leave it as is too and still be happy, but added low end power doesnt hurt.
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:33 PM   #24
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.


LOL - sounding like a woman. Oh if only you knew. jk Yeah there aren't many girls like me , but then again I guess I should be blunt and he is technically an ex-husband but still around, so that may have something to do with not wanting to dump everything into this thing. Also for re-sell he thinks it'll look better if the dealer does everything. I could care less, I want this Jeep until it dies.
So you really are fine, even with an auto? I'm impressed. What kind of driving do you do?
I'm driving over the santa cruz mountains few days a week to get to the beach, so I'm really going to need the pep and power when I ask for it. I also drive the coastline - 65 mph with hills and impatient locals. I'm really trying to figure out how I can do this but not ruin my DD. I also am planning on adding a new front fender down the road - so would the weight is something that I'm factoring into my lift also. But I don't want to be too high now and then ideal only when I install the winch.
My first instinct was the TF lift but then I saw the Rancho kit and got sucked in by the good deal and how I can adjust them. That's a big factor for me.
I don't have mountains around here so I could not tell you however I just got done with a short trip (hiway only) and I had good power and noticed it revved at about 1800 at 70MPH. I got about 16 to 17 MPG and had no issues when I needed to put the pedal down. It does shift a little goofy at times and when it hits 5th gear (auto) I am revving low and it feels laggy.
As far as my lift I got the Teraflex with Rancho 9000XL shocks which makes it adjustable. Don't forget the geo brackets, they make things real nice. They are a little low if you are a hardcore crawler but I don't have that much rock here. More mud than anything. I just installed the lift in December and since its Wisconsin I had no opportunity to wheel other than in snow, lots of it. I will regear eventually just to get me better and set me up for 37's someday but I am adding all my other toys first. Rear bumper/tire carrier, headlights, off road lights some interior stuff. Just add money. Good Luck with your build.
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:55 AM   #25
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I know a few folks with this lift. Only complaint, on a 4 door the rear is a little low.
I have this lift on my '12 JK and love it. So my question is
would it support having 35s roll under it or would I need to
Upgrade?
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:56 PM   #26
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I have this lift on my '12 JK and love it. So my question is would it support having 35s roll under it or would I need to Upgrade?
It'll work but you might rub off road. Run flat or trimmed flares ?
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:31 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
It'll work but you might rub off road. Run flat or trimmed flares ?
No just the stock Sahara fenders

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