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Old 10-21-2013, 08:43 AM   #1
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06 4.0/NSG370 into a 00 TJ questions.

My son's 2000 Sport 4.0 broke the #1 connecting rod and sent it through the oil pan.
I found an 06 4.0 with the NSG370 6 speed on CL with 56K. Will I need the complete harness or will the 00 harness plug and play with the newer motor. Not terribly worried about the trans as I can adapt the crossmember to fit either now or later. There is nothing wrong with his NV3550. Thanks.

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Old 10-21-2013, 09:02 AM   #2
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It will probably depend on a few different things:
1) California emissions as opposed to non California (2 O2 sensors vs. 4)
2) coil rail vs. wires (not sure the year they changed)
3) you will at least need the PCM from the 06

If I were you I would get an 06 harness and just swap it completely, that's just me as it will take any troubleshooting and guess work out of it later.

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Old 10-21-2013, 09:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All Terrain TJ View Post
My son's 2000 Sport 4.0 broke the #1 connecting rod and sent it through the oil pan.
I found an 06 4.0 with the NSG370 6 speed on CL with 56K. Will I need the complete harness or will the 00 harness plug and play with the newer motor. Not terribly worried about the trans as I can adapt the crossmember to fit either now or later. There is nothing wrong with his NV3550. Thanks.
You will also need the harness and pcm. 00' is not a PnP for an 05-06'.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:59 AM   #4
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Sorry guys, I respectfully see this going a different route. You can use the bare 06 motor with the 00 electronics, PCM and all, however you will have to use the 00 ignition setup. This will require synchronizing the cam and crank position sensors by a qualified tech. All you are using of the 06 is the long block.

As for the trans, the newer 6 speed has the crank position sensor clocked at a different position, so here again, a tech will have to synchronize it with the cam sensor. You still use the 00 cam sensor.

There literally isn't a "cross member" for the trans. The center pan or "skid plate" carries the load. I have not yet done a NV3550 to a 6 spd swap so I'm leaving that to others as to the mechanics of that. But in going from an AX-5 (yes, AX-5) to the NV3550 a different rear trans mount was required.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:13 AM   #5
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Sorry guys, I respectfully see this going a different route. You can use the bare 06 motor with the 00 electronics, PCM and all, however you will have to use the 00 ignition setup. This will require synchronizing the cam and crank position sensors by a qualified tech. All you are using of the 06 is the long block.

As for the trans, the newer 6 speed has the crank position sensor clocked at a different position, so here again, a tech will have to synchronize it with the cam sensor. You still use the 00 cam sensor.
Which ends up being much more expensive than just grabbing an 05-06' wiring harness and PCM.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:18 AM   #6
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Just use the 06 long Block and keep everything else from the old setup

The 5spd has higher torque rating and is cheeper to repair so just keep it as there is nothing better about the 6 SPd

Simple no extra cost and no emissions issues
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:20 AM   #7
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Also the 06 is a much different emissions system and you would Lilly need much of exhaust plus evap system off a 06 to make the 06 PCM harness route pass emissions

All would Lilkly adversely effect resale value
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:26 AM   #8
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Thanks for the replies. That's what I was planning on, stripping down to the long block and using all engine management from the 00.
JeepersDave when you say synchronize the camshaft position sensor do you mean syncing the OPDA with the cam gear as in a remove and replace? If so I have done that before.
Found another 4.0 in a 98 with 110k and AX15 for $950. I should be able to use that long block as well right? The 06 is 56k for $1500 and is already pulled. The 98 I can here run and drive. Both are doing V8 swaps and don't want to give up their PCMs. Thanks
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:30 AM   #9
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And resale probably stopped being an issue when, during restoration, he decided to bedline the whole Jeep.
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:32 AM   #10
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You can get a 4.0 long block for $500 or under. I would reuse everything that you already have.
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:05 PM   #11
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As I understand it the pre 2000 head is different and you cannot just bolt on the 2000 exhaust manifold

Also I read somewhere that the pre 2000 head h
Has the bosses but not the threaded holes for the coil packs so you might have to drill and tap those holes

Search for 4.0 head swap or 4.0 head differences for more info
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All Terrain TJ View Post
Thanks for the replies. That's what I was planning on, stripping down to the long block and using all engine management from the 00.
JeepersDave when you say synchronize the camshaft position sensor do you mean syncing the OPDA with the cam gear as in a remove and replace? If so I have done that before.
Found another 4.0 in a 98 with 110k and AX15 for $950. I should be able to use that long block as well right? The 06 is 56k for $1500 and is already pulled. The 98 I can here run and drive. Both are doing V8 swaps and don't want to give up their PCMs. Thanks
Bro, for $1200-1500 you can buy a brand new long block reman'd with a warranty. Rebuilt replacement 4.0L's are cheap money...........why waste time going through boneyards or CL for an engine where you have 0 clue how good the condition is considering you can buy a new engine for the cost of a typical clutch replacement at a shop, LOL! Even master rebuild kits only go for $4-700 bucks complete. Spending $1000-1500 used makes no sense when a new one in the same range can be had.
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Which ends up being much more expensive than just grabbing an 05-06' wiring harness and PCM.
The PCM and engine harness from an 05 or 06 is in no way compatible with the rest of the wiring on a 00. It may connect, but it will not work. The PCM's have evolved such that even if the wiring exists for certain options, ie. cruise, fog lights, rear defrost, A/C, the PCM must be programmed to know those options exist and let them function. I won't even get into the SKIM key issue other than to say you just cannot take the engine harness and PCM and plug it into 00 wiring unless you want to try and prove me correct.

The OP has everything he needs short of a long block to get the Jeep back on the road. It's up to him to make the financial judgement. I agree that a used long block, perhaps even a re-man could be bought for similar money. My comments were intended to answer his question directly about the electronics side of the swap.

I think when one is faced with a major component replacement, it's natural to think upgrade. I know I did when going from a 2.5 to 4.0. But there are limits to what upgrades the wallet and vehicle can stand. And there's always the unintended consequences.
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:48 PM   #14
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I have done a little searching and the reman long blocks I have found are $1800-$2200 range plus shipping and rebuildable core.

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I'm not sure if that will be a rebuilable core. You can see the bottom half of #1 connecting rod sticking through the hole in the oil pan. I won't know how much damage has been done until I drop the pan.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:21 PM   #15
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Rock Auto has em for about $1350, plus core. Shipping is about $140......so in that $1500 range as example. Regardless, your not talking about thousands of dollars difference here, we are talkin a few hundred dollars in reality. I did a check, locally I can get a Mrshall rebuilt for $1300 shipped to my parts store(plus core). Prices may vary a bit, but again.....they are still very reasonable.
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:08 PM   #16
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Another thought, if your block is OK(Good chance it is still), is to just pull it and rebuild it yourself. It can be a very fun DIY project, its a very EASY motor to rebuild. Master rebuild kits are dirt cheap. You can buy the kit, have the block cleaned and honed, head decked with a valve job and do the entire job yourself for well under a grand. Heck you can even give it a slick custom paintjob while your at it. They don't get any easier than a 4.0L when it comes to a rebuild.

Here is my rebuild a few years back. With mine I didn't touch the pistons,rods or crank, since they were still good and in spec, but the head had been decked, magnafluxed, a full valve job, all new camshaft,OPDA, lifters,pushrods, full gasket set, timing chain, oil pump, water pump, etc etc and the total was about $650 for me.
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:31 PM   #17
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Thanks again for the replies and advice. I spoke with my local auto parts dealer and was able to get a remanufactured long block for $1900 delivered. NJO if time was not a factor I would love to rebuild this myself with my son. Unfortunately it gets very tiresome to have him borrow my vehicle to go to school or practice. I should get the engine for the weekend and will hopefully be up and running by Sunday. Thanks again.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:01 PM   #18
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Thanks again for the replies and advice. I spoke with my local auto parts dealer and was able to get a remanufactured long block for $1900 delivered. NJO if time was not a factor I would love to rebuild this myself with my son. Unfortunately it gets very tiresome to have him borrow my vehicle to go to school or practice. I should get the engine for the weekend and will hopefully be up and running by Sunday. Thanks again.
Hey no prob.......I think the new long block was the smartest way to go. Long term especially. Im not a fan of junkyard engines, never know what your going to get or how that engine was treated regardless of claimed "mileage".

Curious, did the $1900 INCLUDE the core charge? Or is it $1900 straight up with no core charge?
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:17 PM   #19
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Don't forget to get another oil pan as yours is toast and a long block probably will not include one

Junkyard ok for a non moving non wear part like an oil pan
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:38 AM   #20
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Hey no prob.......I think the new long block was the smartest way to go. Long term especially. Im not a fan of junkyard engines, never know what your going to get or how that engine was treated regardless of claimed "mileage".

Curious, did the $1900 INCLUDE the core charge? Or is it $1900 straight up with no core charge?
It's $1900 plus $500 core. Evidently there are two versions of the 4.0 in 2000. One the oil filter comes straight out the block and angles downward on the other. The straight filter boss is $150 more and of course what I have. I don't know what the difference is in the motors, they have the same head casting # but different block #s. That also includes 6% MI sales tax. Rock Auto would've been $100 cheaper but dealing locally is much easier if I need to use the warranty.
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:11 AM   #21
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Was the 2000ish the year with the head casting problems? Just might be something to check into before a purchase.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:06 AM   #22
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Was the 2000ish the year with the head casting problems? Just might be something to check into before a purchase.
I highly doubt reman'd units are going to have that issue.

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