'06 Rubicon LJ, Zone 3" lift questions - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 04-26-2014, 09:46 PM   #1
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'06 Rubicon LJ, Zone 3" lift questions

When I bought my Rubi, the PO gave me a brand new 3" Zone lift. She's my DD, so it'll be perfect for me. He got the nitrogen shocks, so bonus. Keeping in mind she's a '06 Rubicon LJ, heres my questions:

Will I need anything special like brake line extensions or fuel filler neck extension?

SYE?

Anything I'm missing? Any tips or tricks? I'm still new to the Jeep world, so I appreciate all the help!

I've searched and read here and there to get answers. A great club I recently joined (ECOJOCS) are going to assist me putting it in. But I'm not sure how many are familiar with the LJ series. I don't want any surprises when she's sitting in someone else's garage.

Thanks for the help!

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Old 04-27-2014, 01:44 AM   #2
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I'm using a 3" zone on my regular rubicon tj. I have a MML but still using stock driveshaft. No sye needed on a rubi. Front brake lines were just a tad short, so I'm using stock YJ lines which are a bit longer. I'm not using the transfer case drop. No need for a filler extension either.

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Old 04-27-2014, 09:32 AM   #3
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Thanks! What was your reason for the MML? And I was was looking in the Quadratech catalog and brake lines aren't too expensive. How short were yours? Would an extra 2" do it?

Anyone with LJ's have driveshaft issues lining up? Or anything to add?
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:45 AM   #4
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The lj driveshaft is way longer. You will be fine with that setup and no T case drop of MML.
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:56 AM   #5
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With 3. To 4 inches of suspension if you don't want to do SYE and cv driveshaft you can improve driveshaft angle by pointing engine tranny axis down in back toward rear axle

To do that you can raise the front ie engine end with a MML or lower the back with a tc drop

Only the drop looses growing clearance

However with the MML the fan moves up so you either raise fan shroud or raise both radiator and shroud with a body lift

With Lj rear drive shaft is longer so takes greater lift to need to address drive shaft angle

But another way to fit 33 tires is a small body lift and spring spacers and here a MML both improves drive line angle and keeps fan centered in shroud so even if not needed for driveline it is still sometimes used
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:31 PM   #6
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I put the mml lift in when I did the 1.25" body lift. This is on top of the 3" zone lift. It kept my fan and shifters working, and was needed on a tj when I put the zone lift in without using the transfer case drop. Your LJ will be different for the driveline. Longer is better/easier there.

Brake lines were just barely too short. At full extension they would come tight before full turn. The YJ lines worked great.

I'd recommend an adjustable track bar too instead of redrilling the bracket like zone wants.
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevymad View Post
I'd recommend an adjustable track bar too instead of redrilling the bracket like zone wants.
Yep... Best bang for the buck tb... TJ/LJ Jeep Wrangler Solid Chromoly Front Track Bar
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Yep... Best bang for the buck tb... TJ/LJ Jeep Wrangler Solid Chromoly Front Track Bar
They have a 2-3 week wait on it... what would be your next favorite? Or is that it?
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:50 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by chevymad View Post

I'd recommend an adjustable track bar too instead of redrilling the bracket like zone wants.
Gonna ask, with being laid off, money is tight. And the only one available immediately really is the JKS and its $220ish. Pro's and con's with just doing as Zone says and drilling the bracket? At least for now? Thanks
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:22 PM   #10
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Gonna ask, with being laid off, money is tight. And the only one available immediately really is the JKS and its $220ish. Pro's and con's with just doing as Zone says and drilling the bracket? At least for now? Thanks
Drilling the bracket works, but the problem is that you are drilling in a weaker part of the bracket. I ran mine like that for a year, then welded a plate over the existing bracket and redrilled the factory hole through the plate and installed a Currie adjustable. If you can spring for an adjustable from the start, it saves a little work and redo, but if you can't, do it the way I did. I suggested the MC, because of the only three I would recommend; MC, JKS, or Currie, it gives the best clearance and has the smallest price.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:42 PM   #11
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Ok, I'm going to def looking that cause I don't want something breaking due to a weakened part. Thanks for the heads up!
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:42 PM   #12
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Ok, MC called me back and they could get me one in 4 days, but a club member pointed me to this:

BDS Track Bars

American made, about $30 cheaper than MC and best of all the warranty, let me quote it...

..."No Fine Print Warranty

If you are the original purchaser of any BDS product and it breaks, we will give you a new part. Period."

Can't beat that and I can get it locally. I ordered Crown Performance brake lines just to ensure no issues with length today. Again, thanks to everyone for their help!

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