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1999 TJ Sport front brakes - replace ball joints?

2K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  jontay 
#1 ·
I'm replacing the front brakes on a 99' TJ Sport, 4.0, 6Sp. Replacing Calipers, Pads, Rotors and Brake Hose/Lines. Right side needed new Steering Knuckle and it looks like the upper "joint" needs replaced (?). When using a "Pickle Bar" to separate at "joints", the rolled steel shaft from the upper decided to stay attached to the Steering Knuckle.

Lots of choices (price ranges) from RockAuto.com ($6-70).

Questions:

1) Which ones to I want for everyday use with occasional 4x4ing ?

2) How do I remove old ones and install new ones?

3) Are these two pivot points referred to as "ball joints" (they don't seem like an actual ball joint, to me)?

I can post photos if anyone thinks that would help.

Thanks.
 
#2 · (Edited)
I'd stick with Spicer ball joints... a great Spicer upgrade (the factory installed basic Spicer ball joints) kit is is at Amazon.com: Spicer 706944X Socket Assembly: Automotive. Each kit does one side so you need two of them to do the passenger and driver's side ball joints.

You need a ball joint kit to remove and install them... you can rent a kit at most auto parts store, but you also need the "Dana 44 adapter kit" too which is needed whether you run a Dana 30 or Dana 44 front axle.

It's not an easy job, I just did mine last month. The below photo shows what the ball joint tool looks like in use. To gain enough leverage to break the old ball joints loose, I needed to place my floor jack handle over the top of a 2' breaker bar for something like 4' of leverage. An even then I was thinking dirty words as I worked to break them free.

And don't use a pickle fork to separate the knuckle from the ball joints. Instead, use a BFH to knock the knuckle off the ball joints... that is why there is a flat surface on the knuckle, that's where you're supposed to smack it with the BFH which knocks it free with just one or two good blows with the BFH. A small 2 or 3 lb. sledge hammer is ideal for this. A carpenter's hammer doesn't have the heft.
 

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#3 ·
Wow, Thanks Jerry. Talk about someone delivering the goods!!
That's a tremendous help and gives me an idea of what I'm looking at.

Another question....if you don't mind? When I removed the 3 spline bolts from backside of steering knuckle (old), the hub just came right off and approximately 2-3' of axle came along for the ride. Do I have a problem here?

Thanks again!
 
#4 ·
... approximately 2-3' of axle came along for the ride. Do I have a problem here?
Not at all, you could pull the entire axle shaft out at that point. It is a slip-in fit in the center differential. Be aware that there is an inner seal inside the differential housing that the axle shaft passes through, it's a snug fit. That inner seal is what keeps the gear lube out of the axle tube. So if the axle shaft pulled out far enough so the inside-end of it got past the seal, you just want to 'aim' the inner-most end of the axle shaft towards the center of the axle tube so it will pass through the seal's center opening and not knock it out of place. The seal is in there pretty good so it isn't easy to knock out of place so don't be especially paranoid you're going to unseat the seal when you shove the axle shaft back in. If it slides in all the way with easy hand pressure, it's good.
 
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