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Old 08-17-2012, 12:49 PM   #1
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2001 TJ hesitation problem

I have a 2001 4.0 automatic, it was sporatically dying out on me but would restart, Threw error code P320. I replaced the Camshaft position sensor and the Crankcase Position sensor, but i'm still feeling some type of hesitation at about 2000 rpm. I'm not getting any codes, and it's not dying (knock on wood). Any suggestions on what to look at next????

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Old 08-17-2012, 11:40 PM   #2
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gator13,

I had a similar problem and replaced the two sensors you have already, plus my TPS sensor, MAP sensor, removed and cleaned my throttle body. All this helped my Jeep run much better and smoother, but what really helped was replacing my spark plugs.
My Jeep never threw a code so it was hard to connect the dots. If you are running regular plugs you might want to switch them out for some premiums.
Good luck,
Paul

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Old 08-18-2012, 05:37 AM   #3
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That was my next move, local autoparts only has champions, they don't carry the autolite app. I'm heading there today.
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Old 08-18-2012, 04:58 PM   #4
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I also replaced mine with APP plugs. The code that you were throwing is a Crankshaft Position Sensor, but since you have replaced it you could have some other sensors that need replacing.
I would also check your coil pack when you are changing your plugs to see if there might be a problem there.
Paul
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Old 08-20-2012, 03:31 PM   #5
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i'm ready to scream... replaced the plugs with APP985 and now i'm getting a P0300 code.. shoot me now!!!
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:32 PM   #6
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OK I have had this same problem after changing out to the iridium e3 plugs. I replaced all mentioned sensors and TB gasket had no results. I changed back to standard 1.99 champion plugs. Jeep runs great so premiums don't do the jeep ignition system justice
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:02 PM   #7
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Mass air flow sensor...
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:57 AM   #8
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There is no MAF on the 2001 4.0 is there???
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:54 AM   #9
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Mabey not...I had the exact problem with my s10.it was mass air flow..

Could be injectors
Fuel pump
Tps
Spark plugs cap rotor coil
Bad valve seal cylinder head
Bad cat

Lol....
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:23 AM   #10
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replaced the Throttle Position Sensor..... seems to be okay.... but we'll see


so far replaced:
Throttle position Sensor
Camshaft position Sensor
Crankcase position Sensor
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:43 PM   #11
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gator13,

I thought the new plugs fixed my problem, but it started back up again. I replaced my coil pack--problem solved.
Replacing the other sensors is always good, as it helped my own Jeep run much better and smoother.

Paul
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Old 09-08-2012, 01:14 PM   #12
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Just replaced the Coil Rail, took it for a spin and it threw a P0300 code at me. i disconnected the battery and cleared the code... i'll let you know how it goes...
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:21 AM   #13
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This isn't funny anymore. replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, coil rail and throttle sensor and new APP plugs.... still hesitating. anyone have any ideas
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:31 AM   #14
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Did you replace your plug wires???
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 56cj5
Did you replace your plug wires???
the t j has a coil on plug rail no wires. these app plugs your all talking about what is the full name. if they are a platinum style plug I would recommend against them I have ran many different plugs. even tried iridiums. my jeeps always rain funny on platinums and would straight up Cut out with iridiums. I bought 199 cheapo champion plugs and have no problems with the jeep. every jeep is different. I know many people who run platinums with no issues but my jeep just doesn't accept them maybe your case try a good old copper core single electrode plug
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:19 AM   #16
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I put in Autolite APP985 plugs.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:45 AM   #17
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Check your distributor cap make sure the Rotor is getting a connection and that it isn't BURNT UP. Mine had a hesitation this March and it was due to the dis. cap actually melted causing bad connection (By the way "NEVER USE E3 PLUGS OR 2'S ON JEEP NOR ANYTHING BOSCH"). It was internal so it was hard to tell on the outside.
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:29 PM   #18
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gator13,

I have another thought, I have a friend that was having similar problems that we are/were both having, plus his cruise control was not working. After replacing some of the sensors I noticed that his brake lights were not working. To make a very long story short we replaced his brake light switch that connects to his brake pedal, and the hesitating was fixed along with his c.c.
I really do not know why this would have fixed the hesitating problem, but it did??? Maybe something with the main computer and this switch being bad causing a problem with one of the sensors we had already replaced.

Hang in there
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:35 PM   #19
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Also,

I forget to mention that a vacuum leak could be the problem. I have seen this happen just not in jeeps, but some of my other 4x4's. Check to make sure all of your lines are good and the fittings tight. Even though they might look good check them very closely.

Paul
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:41 PM   #20
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Had another thought,

Since the fix with my friend and his brake switch, check to make sure that everything is working, brake light switch, radio, dome light, etc. Maybe you are having a problem somewhere else that is causing the main computer to throw a bad code...just a thought.

Paul
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy86freedom View Post
Check your distributor cap make sure the Rotor is getting a connection and that it isn't BURNT UP. Mine had a hesitation this March and it was due to the dis. cap actually melted causing bad connection (By the way "NEVER USE E3 PLUGS OR 2'S ON JEEP NOR ANYTHING BOSCH"). It was internal so it was hard to tell on the outside.

what plugs would you recommend???
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:05 PM   #22
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Factory plugs. I've seen more issues with drivability caused by aftermarket plugs than not. Some cars, and Jeeps, run best when factory plugs are used. I believe the Mopar plugs are actually NGKs. They're very reasonably priced.
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:33 PM   #23
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I had the dreaded P0300 that only occurred at highway rpm's >2,750. I ended up changing out my E3's for old school Champion copper truck plugs, OEM plug wires, a new cap and a rotor from the dealer. Luckily the problem went away and my '99 runs much smoother.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:10 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03ShaleGreenSahara
Factory plugs. I've seen more issues with drivability caused by aftermarket plugs than not. Some cars, and Jeeps, run best when factory plugs are used. I believe the Mopar plugs are actually NGKs. They're very reasonably priced.
I have to second that. like I stated earlier I have ran many different performance plugs and factory's seem the same or better and a lot easier on the pocket. I am currently running champion plugs. never ran better
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pastor1
gator13,

I have another thought, I have a friend that was having similar problems that we are/were both having, plus his cruise control was not working. After replacing some of the sensors I noticed that his brake lights were not working. To make a very long story short we replaced his brake light switch that connects to his brake pedal, and the hesitating was fixed along with his c.c.
I really do not know why this would have fixed the hesitating problem, but it did??? Maybe something with the main computer and this switch being bad causing a problem with one of the sensors we had already replaced.

Hang in there
my coworker had the same problem on his dodge not the hesitation but the CC. it turns out dodge uses the brake light switch to deactivate the CC when brakes are pressed. when that fails the CC knows it and goes into like fail safe mode. don't think it wold cause a sputter or hesitation unless jeep took it one step further. or his CC diaphragm could have been depressed causing a loss of vacuum replacing the switch reset the CC and restored the diaphragm position
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:09 PM   #26
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Different code though. Remove your distributor cap and rotor. Give it a good shake to see if the shaft has any side to side movement.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:29 PM   #27
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It sounds like a vacuum leak. I would get a vacuum gauge you would be surprised on what that tool can find out. In the day and age of computers we sometimes forget the very basic troubleshooting. Is it hard to start?
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:25 AM   #28
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NGK Plugs thats what the dealership uses
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Old 09-15-2012, 01:35 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Wrangler5000
Different code though. Remove your distributor cap and rotor. Give it a good shake to see if the shaft has any side to side movement.
if he has a coil rail that he has a camshaft position sensor not cap and rotor. the camshaft position sensor part that can be considered the distributor can go bad depending on year. my 2000 has had no problems but my dads 05 has gone through three already and the worst part is since dodge took over parts they don't have any avail so yo have to get a junkyard part that's almost guaranteed to fail since its exactly the same as the one you pulled out ridiculous eh
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:57 AM   #30
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Sounds like you have tried many things to fix the problem. Hang in there. I love working on my cars, but hate throwing good money away on the wrong fixes. Lately for me it is cheaper and easier taking it to a good trusted mechanic when I don't know or can't fix it and give up.

A hour or two for him, is better than me waisting couple days off and on trying to fix a technical problem that is beyond most people. Gets old Replacing good parts. The professionals hook up to their computers and it shows the problem.

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