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Old 04-07-2013, 03:41 PM   #1
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2004 Car Stereo Wiring HELP!

OK, i have done a ton of research on this and cannot resolve the issue. I have a 2004 Wrangler with JVC head and the sub in the center console. The sub was blown so am trying to replace. However, nothing is coming from it when I hook it up.

The PO put the head in and I have pulled it to check the wiring. The blue/white wire goes to the lime green wire in the jeep harness behind the dash. What I don't get is where this harness of wire goes and how it interconnects with sub harness and the four other speakers. From everything I can tell, it is hooked up fine. The only thing I can think is the factory amp is blown.

If you have any guidance or insight I would appreciate it.

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Old 04-08-2013, 12:33 PM   #2
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You might want to try and see if you are getting power to the sub, or amp, you can do this by using a multimeter.

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Old 04-08-2013, 01:23 PM   #3
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Also might want to check the fuses. Could be a simple fix if they just need to be replaced. If that's not it, it's probably the amp.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:13 PM   #4
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The dual voice sub has all 4 speakers connected to it through the factory harness. You need the blue wire from the head unit connected to the blue going to the sub. It may be labeled AMP on your head unit wiring. It is the trigger for the sub power.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:50 PM   #5
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I have checked the fuses in the fuse box and they are fine, if their are others please inform. Also, the blue/white wire coming out of the head connects to the lime green wire on the jeep harness side.

What I am trying to get my head around is where the jeep harness behind the head connects to. Does it go straight to the sub harness or is their a junction that allows wires to go out to the speakers?

Any guidance on using the multimeter to determine power flow would be appreciated.

Thanks all.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:52 PM   #6
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Neil, does the blue wire connection to the sub happen automatically when you connect the head harness to the jeep harness behind the head or do I have run a separate wire?
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:01 PM   #7
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One more thing to note, the speakers all work fine with the sun unplugged. The PO did the head replacement so am just trying to figure it out. Thx
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:38 AM   #8
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I don't know what harnesses you have. Dis you have to splice wires or did you get a kit that directly connected your radio to the Jeep connector? There is a blue wire going to the sub from the Jeep connector. There should be a blue AMP wire comming from you head unit. Make sure it is connected to the blue Jeep wire.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:43 AM   #9
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OK, the head wires were spliced to a plug that plugs into the jeep harness behind the head. The blue/white wire from the back of the head lines up with a light green wire in the jeep harness behind the head. I will have to back and look for the blue wire. However, my question is, does the jeep harness behind the head unit connect directly to the sub harness?
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:47 AM   #10
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You need to trace the harness from the radio to the sub. You can get a multitester/voltmeter and check the 12V off the connector at the sub end. Check pin 5 and 6 for 12v with ign on. Also, I think fuse slot #3 behind glovebox is for the amp.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:03 AM   #11
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Ok, I have a digital meter, what do I set it to? Also, again, what does the sub harness (the side that feeds up through the dash) connect to?
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:31 AM   #12
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Ok, I have a digital meter, what do I set it to? Also, again, what does the sub harness (the side that feeds up through the dash) connect to?
Set it to DC 20V(or any value above 12V). The harness should connect to the sub and the other speakers. Keep the connector connected at the radio end and unplugged at the sub end when you probe for 12V. Touch the red probe to the terminals and touch the black probe to a any good ground.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:16 AM   #13
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Ok, will give that a try after lunch and see what I come up with. Thanks and will get back with the results.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:01 PM   #14
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OK, I tested the sub plug (the one coming out near the shifter). Had solid 12V power to the one hot wire and the remote wire gave me just under 12V with the ignition on and 0V with it off. So, I know power is coming from the remote on to the sub, now how to I confirm if the amp is generating any power to the speaker or if the amp is even on?
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:15 PM   #15
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OK, I tested the sub plug (the one coming out near the shifter). Had solid 12V power to the one hot wire and the remote wire gave me just under 12V with the ignition on and 0V with it off. So, I know power is coming from the remote on to the sub, now how to I confirm if the amp is generating any power to the speaker or if the amp is even on?
Obvious but stranger things have happened...have you gone through the menu section on the head unit and checked that the sub level is not just turned down or that fade is not adjusted incorrectly...just a thought.
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:10 AM   #16
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Obvious but stranger things have happened...have you gone through the menu section on the head unit and checked that the sub level is not just turned down or that fade is not adjusted incorrectly...just a thought.

He is using the stock sub which uses speaker level inputs. The head unit output to the sub is not being used therefore the sub volume would not matter.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:17 AM   #17
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Are there any other settings on the head unit I should check that could have an impact?
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:31 AM   #18
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Have you tried testing the blown sub by hooking directly to the JVC? There's a chance the amp is blown.
But if you are getting 12V to pin 5 and 6, you can check the speaker output by take a speaker and tap into pin 1 and 2 wiring which is the rt front output.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:46 AM   #19
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Ok. Will check that when I get home.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:17 PM   #20
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Ok, may be on to something here. I went back and tested the sub plug (coming from the dash) with a multimeter. This time instead of putting the ground lead on the chassis, I put it on the #12 pin and got no reading. This makes me think the ground to the plug is loose. Before I rip my jeep apart, does anyone know where this is grounded?
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:19 PM   #21
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I meant ground wire is loose.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:35 PM   #22
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Switch your multimeter to the continuity setting (the line with a triangle) turn the key and probe the 12pin and chassis. If it beeps you're good. Alternatively, if you don't have continuity (some POS multimeters don't have), switch to Ohm's in auto, and probe chassis and the 12 pin. It should be non-zero but small, like .01-.05 ohms. If either of those readouts occur, you're properly grounded.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:57 PM   #23
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N00g7,

Ok, this is what I did. Set to continuity with key in the on position. Placed the red on the constant 12 V and switched with black on the chassis got a reading of .87. With the red on either 12V and the black on the negative in the harness got a reading of 1. Am I doing this right?
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:19 PM   #24
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N00g7,

Ok, this is what I did. Set to continuity with key in the on position. Placed the red on the constant 12 V and switched with black on the chassis got a reading of .87. With the red on either 12V and the black on the negative in the harness got a reading of 1. Am I doing this right?

No.

On continuity setting, the ---|)|--- looking thing:
12pin (ground) on harness goes to red lead
Chassis (ground) goes to black lead -- btw, you have to make sure you find a spot that isn't painted.
It should beep or tell you something IF that pin is coupled to ground, which it should be. You can check what its function would be by just touching the red and black probes together.

Same setup for Ohms, but your reading should be around .0X
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:47 PM   #25
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Ok, tested the way you said and getting a value of 1.
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:52 PM   #26
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Ok, tested the way you said and getting a value of 1.

For which setting? If you contact the leads together does it read 1 or does it read 1 if you have them separate?
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:49 PM   #27
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When together it is like .056 or something but when I put the red on the harness ground and the black on the chassis ground i get 1.
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:21 PM   #28
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When together it is like .056 or something but when I put the red on the harness ground and the black on the chassis ground i get 1.

If you hold the probes apart and it also says "1" you don't have a ground connection. To fix, trace that wire back to where it came from, e.g., the radio. Put the tester on either end of that wire and make sure you get a reading (e.g., those two points are connected) and then keep tracing back. When you test across two points that ARE NOT connected (e.g., the connection failure point, if that's what it is), you can simply ground those end points individually to the chassis.
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:23 PM   #29
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Yes, when they are apart it says 1. This is good because I read on another post where the issue a guy was having with the sub was a bad ground. At least I may be on the right track. Thanks.
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:35 PM   #30
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Cool. If you need a factory sub/amp thing I'll send one to you at cost of shipping. Personally though, if my amp were busted, I'd get an aftermarket one.

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