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Old 05-09-2014, 11:56 PM   #1
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Cool 2004 TJ Tranny skid plate issues

Aloha All,
Got my Currie 3in lift all but installed- problem is the fwd cross member of the trany skid plate impedes the fwd drive shaft at full extension- going to have to remove it- 2 questions
1) The bolts are spun and will not back out- going to grind/cut them off unless someone else has a better idea?
2) What is the hot ticket for tranny protection for lifted TJs?
Mahalo,
Mark

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Old 05-10-2014, 12:03 AM   #2
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Like the driveshaft rubs with both fronts free hanging? If so don't worry about it unless your going to be taking it off sweet jumps. "Napoleon Dynamite" my rear breather hose comes off when I get inspections and they jack it up by the frame. Never happens off road.

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Old 05-10-2014, 09:04 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goodinmw View Post
Aloha All,
Got my Currie 3in lift all but installed- problem is the fwd cross member of the trany skid plate impedes the fwd drive shaft at full extension- going to have to remove it- 2 questions
1) The bolts are spun and will not back out- going to grind/cut them off unless someone else has a better idea?
2) What is the hot ticket for tranny protection for lifted TJs?
Mahalo,
Mark
This is only a problem for those with the automtic transmission. You are right to be concerned as the front mounting arm on the driver's side will bend your driveshaft when you lift your rig. I'm kind of surprised you could even get your lift on without removing the skid plate first.

You can cut that mounting arm off at the skid plate and run with only the other side connected. You can also weld up an arm that goes over the top of the driveshaft instead of underneath it. Or you can buy an aftermarket skid that addresses this problem.

I cut and welded an arm that went over my driveshaft:


My skid plate nutserts also spun in the frame. When I did mine it was under warranty so I brought it to the dealer to let them deal with it. The techs at the dealer, used a large pry bar between the frame and skid plate to load up the bolt as much as possible and were able to spin the bolt out with an impact wrench while apply pressure with the pry bar.
After they got the skid off, they tacked the nutserts in place with a mig welder. grinded it flat and touched up the paint on the frame before reinstalling the skid.
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:53 AM   #4
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Outstanding LJ Dave!
Almost exactly what I was thinking about- thanks for the picture.
As for the spun bolts- I'll try a pry bar first, but if not I can cut them off.
Nailed both my questions perfectly!
Mahalo Nui Loa!
Mark

PS- I had disconnected the front drive shaft to allow me to drop the axle and get the springs in without a compressor.
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:44 AM   #5
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Mark - If you are going to go the same route as I did with the skid plate mounting arm... I took a bunch of measurements and welded up my bracket, then I removed the skid plate and welded the new bracket onto the existing arm before cutting out the original arm. This way I knew my mounting hole would still line up with the frame. I had to cut the arm off all the way back at the skid plate to allow for enough side to side driveshaft movement for all potential suspension movements at full stuff and full droop, one side stuffed and the other drooped and so on. You'll be surprised at how much the front drive shaft moves around.
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:49 AM   #6
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Thanks LJ,
I figured on doing exactly what you recommend.
The pry bar method for removing the bolts failed for me- will grind away next- already have the replacement nutserts on order. Also thinking of mig welding them in place just to prevent any future spinning...
Aloha, Mark
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Old 05-11-2014, 06:26 AM   #7
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Another option for the tranny skid is to replace it with a whole engine/tranny skid that doesn't cross under the front driveshaft.
Skid row, Rokmen, and Ucf make them and they can be bolted to the factory transfer case skid. That is all assuming you don't plan on tummy tucking sometime in the near future.

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