Need help! 2006 jeep wrangler sport. Won't say a word. New battery, new starter, new ignition switch. All fuses are good. Tried cranking in park and neutral. Don't really understand how start neutral switch works. Is it the cable that comes off the floor shifter and goes to the key cylinder and has a 2 wire connector? Do those wires go to the transmission? don't think it matters but it is a right hand drive.
Don't know anything about a security kill switch. Don't have a security system.I have had it 2 or 3 years. always dependable. son got stranded in river bottom. We shorted the starter and it cranked to get it home.
The neutral switch is part of the transmission range sensor. It's a 10 wire connector to the trans. On one corner is a yellow/dark blue wire that sends a signal to the PCM to ground the starter relay coil. Then the ignition switch has to send power to the other side of the relay coil. If the relay is grounded & gets power from the ignition switch the relay closes & should engage the starter.
Pull the starter relay & find the slots in the socket labeled 85 & 86. With a test light or meter & with the trans in neutral or park & the key in the start position one of those slots should have battery voltage & the other should be grounded. See if you have that. If no ground the neutral switch is probably bad. If you don’t have power & since you replaced the switch I would guess the actuator pin is bad. When you replaced the switch did you check it? It’s the part that connects between the key cylinder & the actual switch. Often the tip cracks or breaks (a common problem) causing the key not to be able to fully turn the switch to the start position. If you do have both power & ground at the relay make sure you have power at the 30 slot (from fuse 6) then make a short jumper wire & WITH THE JEEP IN PARK jump between the 30 & 87 slots. That should engage the starter & crank the engine.
Ignition actuator pin. Check this link for photos & video how-to. Those links are in post #2 Also see post #4 for a potential pitfall when replacing it (if it is broken).
what is the cable that goes from the floor shifter to the key cylinder assembly? it has some kind of switch with a 2 wire connector in line with the cable. I unpluged 2 wire connector and checked cable switch with a meter while shifting and got nothing. i also jumpered the 2 wire connector and got nothing. what is that cable and what does it do? where do the 2 wires go?
Vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission and a floor mounted shifter: a cable is used to connect the interlock device in the steering column assembly, to the transmission floor shift lever. This interlock system is used to lock the transmission shifter in the PARK position when the key cylinder is rotated to any position.
The system locks the shifter into the PARK position. The Interlock system is engaged whenever the ignition switch is in the LOCK or ACCESSORY position. An additional electrically activated feature will prevent shifting out of the PARK position unless the brake pedal is depressed at least one-half an inch. A magnetic holding device in line with the park/brake interlock cable is energized when the ignition is in the RUN position. When the key is in the RUN position and the brake pedal is depressed, the shifter is unlocked and will move into any position. The interlock system also prevents the ignition switch from being turned to the LOCK or ACCESSORY position (Fig. 148) unless the shifter is fully locked into the PARK position.
The wires should be PK/YL & DG/WT. PK/YL come from fuse 10 in the fuse block & DG/WT go to the brake light switch.
Hydro locked is when water gets into the cylinder(s) & since water won’t compress the piston(s) can’t come up on the compression stroke. The engine either locks up or a rod bends or the piston breaks.
I checked 85 &86 and it is like i got ground but no hot. Red lead to + on battery gives me 12v on 85 & 86. black lead on - on battery gives me no voltage on 85 or 86. i did what you said with the starter relay and the ignition fuse. 30 to 87 and it turned over. it won't start with fuse 6 out will it? I have no reverse lights. and at some point i blew the cluster fuse. is the nss inside the transmission with the conector sticking out?
OK fuse 6 should give power to 30 of the starter relay. Either jumping from 30 with fuse in or from the battery will crank the engine. If you turn the key on & jump it, it should start. If it starts then you only need to see why there is no power to the relay (85 or 86) when you turn the key to start. If it starts with the jumper then there is power to the ignition switch. Why no power out at start position is the question. Either the switch is bad or it is not being turned far enough with the key. You will have to take it back apart. With the switch removed but still connected to the wiring connector turn the switch with a screwdriver to see if it will crank & start. If no then see if there is power out from the pink/orange wire. If no then the switch is bad. If yes then that wire which goes to the relay is open somewhere & you will have to trace it. If it starts with the screwdriver turning the switch then the actuator pin must be bad. See where all that takes you.
Yes the NSS is inside the trans. That 10 wire connector is attached to something called the Transmission Range Sensor. That gives info to the PCM & controls the NSS function, the back up lights & a bunch of trans shifting controls. If the back ups aren’t working you might have a blown fuse. Check the #7 fuse in the block behind the glove box.
Fuse for backup lights was blown. Replaced it and still no reverse lights. Haven't pulled ignition switch back out yet. Broke t10 anti theft torx puttin it back together. Napa will replace it but it will be tomorrow before they got one. When the problem first started, (wouldn't even try to start in the river bottom at a sandbar) we turned the key to on and jumpered the starter and it cranked. We drove it back to the house and killed it. It hasn't started since. When i was under it the other day i noticed the green 10 pin connector was off! Put it back on switch (hopeing i had found the problem) and it made no difference. The only way it will turn over is to jump 87 from battery. Drove out over a bunch of limbs and scrub brush so i don't know if it was on when it cranked or not.
I made a small jumper to replace fuse 6. Then I made a jumper from that jumper to 87. Motor turns over great but it won't crank. The key was on. The fuse marked "Cluster" is behind the glove box. Can't remember what number it was. Just noticed my voltage guage and fuel guage had stopped working. The backup light fuse was blown too. Guages work again, don't know what i did to blow them. I had the + cable off while i was changing the ignition switch. The reverse lights still don't work. The wiring harness and connector look fine except the keeper tab is broke off.
The pk/or wire that is from the ignition switch that feeds the relay also provides power to the PCM when the key is in the start position so that MAY be why it won’t start now. You need to find out why the relay is not getting the signal from the key (as outlined in post #18).
When the connector got pulled off it could have damaged the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS), I suppose. If you can get it started you can drive it & see if the trans shifts normally. That might determine if that sensor is OK or not. As for the b/u lights, for testing you can pull the connector & jump the pink/dark blue (power from fuse wire) & the white/light green wire that goes to the lights & with the key on should turn the lights on. If yes, that will isolate the problem to the sensor.
Why do you need to jump the #6 fuse? All that fuse does is power the 30 slot for the starter relay.
I just noticed that there is a 2nd 10 wire connector on the trans. It is for the Transmission Solenoid/Pressure Switch Assembly (TSPS). Here are the pin outs with wire colors so you can verify which was pulled out. It looks like both connectors plug into the trans. The TRS connector is green, the TSPS is natural. I think the TRS is on the left side of the trans (driver’s side) & the TSPS is on the right. Just to make sure we are talking about the correct connector.
Yes the TRS is green & on the left side. The NSS is built into the TRS.
What I meant is if you put the #6 fuse in you then have power to the #30 slot in the relay socket & can then jump 30 to 87. That way the jump is fuse protected in case there is a short to or in the starter. Just a little added safety.
Don't know if a reset is needed. Have you been able to get to the ignition switch & check that out? If you get power to the relay from the pk/or wire with the key & the starter cranks but if it still won't start then maybe a reset.
Pulled ignition switch back out! Won't crank with a screw driver. I did have swich grounded with ground screw. Don't have a pink/orange wire on ignition swich connector. Lots of pk/yel wires, red wires, black and purple. I checked all slots to ground and some had 10+ volts. still turns over jumping#30 to #87. Tried both ignition switches. Same results.