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Old 05-23-2013, 11:53 AM   #1
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3.5" Lift now getting vibes at 60mph

Just put on new tires yesterday. The ride is great except for the vibes at 60mph. Lift came with a T-Case drop and its a Rubicon. How do I fix the vibes??


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Old 05-23-2013, 11:57 AM   #2
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you need a CV rear driveshaft, adjustable upper and lower control arms, and proper pinion angle alignment & axle position.

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Old 05-23-2013, 12:56 PM   #3
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Did you get a new CV driveshaft with your lift? I just did a 3.5" lift on my 05 Rubicon. Got a Tom Woods CV driveshaft, adjustable upper control arms and as the previous poster said set the pinion angle to the same as the driveshaft. No need for that transfer case drop and no vibes at all. Rubicon's with their different transfer case are slightly different that regular Wranglers.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:02 PM   #4
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No new CV shaft or control arms. Guess I have to get those now
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:41 PM   #5
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Did you get a new CV driveshaft with your lift? I just did a 3.5" lift on my 05 Rubicon. Got a Tom Woods CV driveshaft, adjustable upper control arms and as the previous poster said set the pinion angle to the same as the driveshaft. No need for that transfer case drop and no vibes at all. Rubicon's with their different transfer case are slightly different that regular Wranglers.
Do I need both upper and lower control arms?
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:54 AM   #6
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you need a CV rear driveshaft, adjustable upper and lower control arms, and proper pinion angle alignment & axle position.
Since I have the RK Kit should I stick with the RK control arms or is Meatvcloak a better choice?
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:02 AM   #7
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You need at minimum upper adjustable control arms when getting a CV shaft. I would say go with MC, better joints and have duroflex joints on both ends instead of RK that has one flex and bushing on the other for their lowers. And getting all new control rear/front upper/lowers is the best route to go.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:17 AM   #8
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Looks great though I will tell you that.
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:11 AM   #9
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Looks great though I will tell you that.
Thanks
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:15 AM   #10
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You need at minimum upper adjustable control arms when getting a CV shaft. I would say go with MC, better joints and have duroflex joints on both ends instead of RK that has one flex and bushing on the other for their lowers. And getting all new control rear/front upper/lowers is the best route to go.
Ok so I can get the Rear upper arms and the Tom Woods shaft for now. I have about two weeks before I can get them on will I cause any serious damage in the meantime? And also what site do you recommend the CV shaft I usually go to quadratec?
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:55 PM   #11
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Ok so I can get the Rear upper arms and the Tom Woods shaft for now. I have about two weeks before I can get them on will I cause any serious damage in the meantime? And also what site do you recommend the CV shaft I usually go to quadratec?
I believe that is correct that you only need the rear uppers when getting a CV shaft. Someone can correct me if I am wrong though.
I don't know about how much damage it will cause but I would believe that as long as you don't go too hard on it you should be fine. Just keeping checking the U-joints to make sure they haven't busted.

Here is Tom Woods website. Get it off of here and talked to them about the proper one you need for your jeep. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:23 PM   #12
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I believe that is correct that you only need the rear uppers when getting a CV shaft. Someone can correct me if I am wrong though.
I don't know about how much damage it will cause but I would believe that as long as you don't go too hard on it you should be fine. Just keeping checking the U-joints to make sure they haven't busted.

Here is Tom Woods website. Get it off of here and talked to them about the proper one you need for your jeep. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
Thanks a lot. This is a DD so I doubt I will ever see any off road action in the near future.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:40 PM   #13
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Wow. If u r not going off road really. Add a couple of washers to the tc drop and it will stop.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:46 PM   #14
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Wow. If u r not going off road really. Add a couple of washers to the tc drop and it will stop.
Why not do it right the first time and so when the near future comes for him to go off roading he doesn't have to redo this all over again?
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:05 PM   #15
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Why not do it right the first time and so when the near future comes for him to go off roading he doesn't have to redo this all over again?
Since I'm getting the parts in approx 3 weeks can I use the washers to lessen the damage in the meantime. I'm def doing the CV and control arms but I have to wait a couple weeks for obvious reasons $$$$
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:27 PM   #16
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Since I'm getting the parts in approx 3 weeks can I use the washers to lessen the damage in the meantime. I'm def doing the CV and control arms but I have to wait a couple weeks for obvious reasons $$$$
I don't see why not but if you weren't getting the CV and uppers then as a permanent solution, no. It may take a couple trys to get the right number of washers but it could help lessen the u-joint stress until you get your CV.
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:39 PM   #17
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I don't see why not but if you weren't getting the CV and uppers then as a permanent solution, no. It may take a couple trys to get the right number of washers but it could help lessen the u-joint stress until you get your CV.
I just don't want to further damage anything because I just changed the u joints a month ago. I can order the control arms by weeks end but the CV will take me about 2 weeks to do.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:12 PM   #18
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I just don't want to further damage anything because I just changed the u joints a month ago. I can order the control arms by weeks end but the CV will take me about 2 weeks to do.
That's fine, I was just saying that if you were to planning on just doing the washers and wanting to go off road, it would not be a good idea.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:40 AM   #19
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That's fine, I was just saying that if you were to planning on just doing the washers and wanting to go off road, it would not be a good idea.
No off roading for me. So all I have to do is put som washers to lower the T case more?
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:02 AM   #20
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If it was me, I would lower the Transfer case a little more with some washers just as a fast/cheap temporary fix. Let us know if it works for you.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:18 AM   #21
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I'd pull the rear shaft till you get a cv shaft
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:58 AM   #22
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Do I need both upper and lower control arms?
My RE 3.5" kit came with only upper adjustable control arms. I could not set the thrust angle of the rear axle to spec. So I bought some Currie lower adjustables, put them on and got the thrust angle perfect. So I guess I would never buy another lift that did not have all 4 CA's adjustable.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:16 AM   #23
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Your Jeep looks great get rid of the TC drop and get a CV DS and rear upper control arms and lower control arms.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:10 AM   #24
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If it was me, I would lower the Transfer case a little more with some washers just as a fast/cheap temporary fix. Let us know if it works for you.
That's all I can do for now I spent a ton getting tires not to mention paying the dealership for installation. Wish I was able to do it myself not really auto savvy
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:11 AM   #25
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I'd pull the rear shaft till you get a cv shaft
By pulling the rear shaft what are the pros and co ns. Do remember I have to pay someone to do all of this. Is it time consuming?
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:13 AM   #26
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Your Jeep looks great get rid of the TC drop and get a CV DS and rear upper control arms and lower control arms.
Thanks!! When I finally get the CV DS I can remove the TC drop? I was looking at getting Meatcloak upper/lower CA's are those good enough. Keep in mind there's a 3% chance my jeep will be seeing a trail. I do want to be ready just in case.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:17 PM   #27
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Since I have the RK Kit should I stick with the RK control arms or is Meatvcloak a better choice?
Personally, I'd suggest something with Currie Johnny Joints on each end....like those from Savvy Off-Road, Clayton Off-Road or Currie. If you order through Currie, you may be able to get a forum discount...

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Do I need both upper and lower control arms?
You can set pinion angle with only the uppers. problem is this pushes the axle backward in the wheelwell, so the tires can rub on the rear fenderwell. Worse yet, this pushes the rear track bar into the gas tank mount on the frame, and pushes the diff into the gas tank itself. So while you can set pinion angle, you end up with major clearance problems. You need adjustable lowers so you can SHORTEN them...this results in rotating the axle about the hub center, instead of about the lower control arm bolts. That way when the axle cycles up, it doesn't hit anything.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:28 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by EMTJEEP View Post
You need at minimum upper adjustable control arms when getting a CV shaft. I would say go with MC, better joints and have duroflex joints on both ends instead of RK that has one flex and bushing on the other for their lowers. And getting all new control rear/front upper/lowers is the best route to go.
If you ask RK they will sub in Monster joints instead of flex bushings. I have done this on many of my sales. Agree with you on all arms at once.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:38 PM   #29
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Personally, I'd suggest something with Currie Johnny Joints on each end....like those from Savvy Off-Road, Clayton Off-Road or Currie. If you order through Currie, you may be able to get a forum discount...

You can set pinion angle with only the uppers. problem is this pushes the axle backward in the wheelwell, so the tires can rub on the rear fenderwell. Worse yet, this pushes the rear track bar into the gas tank mount on the frame, and pushes the diff into the gas tank itself. So while you can set pinion angle, you end up with major clearance problems. You need adjustable lowers so you can SHORTEN them...this results in rotating the axle about the hub center, instead of about the lower control arm bolts. That way when the axle cycles up, it doesn't hit anything.
Ok so I'll def get upper and lower CA's and Tom Woods CV. I'll check the prices on Curries. I'm assuming I can remove the T case drop after I change everything? Also aprox how long is the entire job (both CAs, and CV)?
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:39 PM   #30
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Thanks for all the help btw I just want to do everything right

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